This is the last post from our trip to the Timbavati with Sue and Neville.

“Within my soul, within my mind,
There lies a place I cannot find.
Home of my heart. Land of my birth.
Smoke-coloured stone and flame-coloured earth.
Electric skies. Shivering heat.
Blood-red clay beneath my feet.

At night when finally alone,
I close my eyes – and I am home.
I kneel and touch the blood-warm sand
And feel the pulse beneath my hand
Of an ancient life too old to name,
In an ancient land too wild to tame.”

 –Michelle Frost ( part of the poem – WHITE SKIN AND AN AFRICAN SOUL)

It was our last morning and there was no way anyone was going to miss our last game drive. At 6h30 we were all out of camp. It was freezing cold, the sky was clear and dawn was breaking. We did our requisite stop at “hide waterhole” to see what, if anything, was drinking there – nothing. The Hippo family were watching us with their eyes and snouts just above the water. The scene was very peaceful and ablaze with colour from the rising sun.

Not ten minutes later as we were driving up the hill, a small herd of Wildebeest galloped passed us. Pat immediately picked up on this, saying that it was strange for them to be behaving like this and there was probably a predator around.

Pat was right, there was a predator around and another and another….. In fact there was a pride of seven Lion around. Our luck  – this was the pride with two white Lions. The sun was still rising and it was probably around 7h00.

Even in the early low light their white coats were very distinctive.

The first record of White Lions dates back over 400 years in African history. The first White Lion sighting by an European was only in the early 1930’s. This was in the Timbavati region. In the ancient Shangaan language, Timbavati means “The Place Where Star Lions Came Down From The Heavens”.  (http://www.cango.co.za/lions). These majestic creatures are said to be descendants of celestial beings that gave rise to a sacred lineage of noble African kings.

According to the legends of the Shangaan people living deep in the wilds of Southern Africa, White Lions are the Messengers of the Gods, and their presence in their tribal lands ensures peace and prosperity for all. Scientists were unable to document their existence until they were spotted again in the mid 1970s. (http://www.whitelionjourneys.com)

“Gentle pink dawns and shimmering vermilion days
Harsh desert heat where life cowers
Blood sunsets on red sands
Freezing dry nights, where ready predators lurk.”

part of a poem Listen by Graham Vivian Lancaster

For many centuries, African kings identified the lands of Timbavati as a protected area. It falls on the Nile meridian (31 degrees East), a ley line which is also referred to as “Zep Tepi,” believed to be the spot at which life first emerged on the planet. This area also happens to be exactly aligned with the great Sphinx of ancient Egypt, a representation of the fusion of human beings and lions, both considered to be at the apex of their respective kingdoms.(http://www.whitelionjourneys.com). These are the kinds of stories you listen to while sitting around the camp fire and gazing into the flames while your imagination dances with the sparks up into the the dark star-filled sky.

Judging from the pride interaction, the Lions do not pay any attention to the differences in the colour of their coats.

Soft early morning light in the bush.

The pride eventually stopped to rest and laid up in reasonably thick bush above one of the waterholes.

It was very peaceful scene with just the sound of the odd Crested Spurfowl calling in the distance.

These Lions looked very comfortable soaking up the warm winter sun after what must have been a busy night.

The White Lions are very popular probably because of all the mystic and legend surrounding them, so we had to give others a chance to see them and left them to go a find a place to talk about what we had just seen over a cup of coffee and muffin. Pat took us to a familar waterhole, at which we had stopped on day two. We stopped on the dam wall so we could see what was coming. Pat had heard that there was a large herd of Buffalo in the area and what a brilliant surprise, they stopped for a drink too.

It was a very large herd, I did not count them but there must have been over 500. A part of the herd had already drunk and had moved on into the bush.

This old bull was at the back of the herd. By the look of the colour on his hind leg  I think he might have recently had a tangle with Lions.

Once the Buffalo had moved away from the waterhole, a few Zebra came down to drink. They walked down and immediately had a good look around, saw us and figured we were far enough away not to be a problem and proceeded to drink. The wildlife does not hang around once it has had its drink of water and quickly merges back into the bush, probably because there is a good chance predators will be lurking in the surrounding bush.

 On our way back to camp, we came across this very cold Lilac-breasted Roller.

A little further on we saw this Steenbok close to the road but it seemed quite relaxed, standing still long enough to get a shot.

The end of a brilliant four days in the bush. Thank you Timbavati, thank you Walker’s Camp staff and a big thank you to Pat and Eileen for a wonderful four days with some great sightings. It was fun meeting Joan, Eddie and Lizette, and Richard and Wendy. We all got on really well together spiced with animated conversations about life the country and wildlife stories. To Sue and Neville thank you again for inviting us to join your group of friends for a memorable four days in the Timbavati.

AFRICA, MY AFRICA
“The smell of rain upon parched, dry ground
Songs of Africa fill the air as drums pound
Majestic sunsets, vistas grand
My soul dissolved within this land

The roar of a lion, call of the wild
Music to the ears of an innocent child
The smell of smoke from a charcoal fire
Fancy toy gallimotos made from wire

Mangoes, paw paws, sugar cane too
The sweetest delights for me and you
Elephant grass, black jacks in our socks
Skimming the river with small flat rocks

Slag heaps, slimes dams, ant hills abound
Bare feet raise dust swirls as we run around
The pure white smile of a picannin’s grin
Acapella harmony as rich voices sing

A million stars grace the African skies
The beat of wings as a fish eagle flies
Bright chitengi wrapped around hips that sway
Dusty children, laughing at play

Maize pounded diligently, thud after thud
Little round huts made from grass and mud
A canoe bobbing silently at water’s edge
A creeping, purple bougainvillea hedge

White floating clouds, in a deep blue sky
Memories like these bring a tear to my eye
For here I am in the land of the free
But I forgot to bring my heart with me…

Africa, My Africa
You will always burn bright in my soul.”
 – Linda (Dore) Hayes 2001

The poems can be found at Linda Smith’s WordPress website. Have a look, it is superb with special meaning to those who have lived in Rhodesia, now called Zimbabwe.

https://lindasmithinspiration.wordpress.com

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun,

Mike

This is the third post from our recent trip to the Timbavati with friends, Neville and Sue Kelly in mid-June.

“If you want to go fast go alone,

If you want to go far go together.”

 – African Proverb

On our third morning we left camp before sunrise as usual. This Grey Heron  was fishing in “hide waterhole” despite the air temperature being icey cold. It did not like us passing by and flew off into a tall dead tree alongside the waterhole.

The Grey Heron settled in the tall dead tree alongside “hide waterhole”. The sun was just starting to rise but it was really nippy.

The Purple Roller is as beautiful as the Lilac-breasted Roller but in a more subtle way. Once it flies you can see the purple feathers on its belly and under its wings. You will not see as many Purple Rollers as you will the ubiquitous Lilac-breasted Rollers.

After a relatively quiet start to the morning, Pat found this Leopardess, Rockfig Junior and her growing cub. Initially, they were in thick bush making it impossible to get a clear shot.

This is where Pat’s knowledge of the bush and animal behaviour was so important. He quickly assessed that she probably had a kill somewhere in the area and Rockfig Junior was taking her cub to feed on the hidden kill.

We drove down the hill closer to the river and Pat stopped the game vehicle where he thought she would come out. Sure enough Rockfig Junior emerged about ten minutes later. She and her cub walked right passed us. She was not perturbed by us but stopped every now and then to assess the lie of the land.

Rockfig Junior and her cub walked some distance apart. That was probably so that if they walked into another predator they could scatter easily.

These Leopards blended into the bush beautifully. If you did not know they were there and they stood still, I doubt you would see them.

“Opportunity doesn’t make appointments,

You have to be ready when it arrives.” 

– Tim Fargo

Within a couple of hundred metres of the hidden kill, Rockfig Junior stopped to have a look around.

As many cats do, the cub rubbed itself against its mother. They also stroke each other with their tails.

Rockfig Junior was not taking any chances and was having a good look around once she got closer to the kill. Perhaps she was looking out for Hyaenas in case they had picked up the scent of the kill, even though it was well hidden.

You can see the lithe strength of this Leopardess.

The cub walked ahead of its mother, obviously hungry, but did not know where the kill was and relied on its mother to steer it in the general direction of the hidden feast.

We were privileged to watch these two Leopards for about 45 minutes as they walked through the bush to the hidden kill. Once they had got to the kill and started to pull the hair off the carcass, we decided to leave them to feed in peace. After all the excitement, it was time for a coffee break. As we were driving out of the area and just before we stopped we came across this young male Lion.

He got up when he saw us and started to walk into the bush behind him and then stopped, turned around and came back to his resting place.

He was watching us carefully but seemed relaxed, probably because he had recently fed, judging from the size of his belly.

I must have developed my fondness for this type of scene from my childhood in Zimbabwe. I enjoy the sand roads, even with their corrugations. Somehow they seem to interfere less in the bush than a tar road and you get the feeling of being in a far away place.

Tabi’s crossing. Pat told us that Tabi was the Lioness that produced the white lion cubs first seen in 1975, and this was the spot where they were first seen.

Sue’s Sycamore. Just passed Tabi’s crossing Sue wanted to take a closer look at this huge Sycamore fig tree. I got off the game vehicle to get a closer shot. This Sycamore was on the other side of the dry river bed and it was massive. When I was standing on the bank taking my shots, Pat called to me to say that because the well-fed male we had just seen was not too far away there was possibly a Lioness in the area and I should not linger. Just then I heard movement in the bush next to the riverbed about 20 metres further on. Needless to say that was just the prompt I needed to get by “a” back onto the game vehicle.

A sand road on our way back from seeing Rockfig Junior. The elevated perspective shows you that the area is very flat.

There are big and small things in Timbavati. While we were having coffee this dragonfly stopped on a dead  stalk close to the game vehicle. Being a photographer it was irresistible.

Just before “one beer” bridge we found this Giraffe browsing on the treetops just next to Walker’s River Camp. We had Nyala and Impala in the camp. It is wonderful to have all of this life around you.

“Sun glows for a day,

Candle for an hour,

Matchstick for a minute,

But a good day can glow forever.

GOOD MORNING……””

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun,

Mike

This post shows some of the images taken on the second day of our Timbavati trip with Pat Donaldson showing us around. The routine in the camp was reveillie at 5h45, coffee at 6h15 and out of the camp at 6h30 before sunrise. Of course photographers wanted to get the sunrise. It was freezing cold first thing in the morning and even colder on a moving open vehicle!!!

“Start where you are, use what you have, do what you can.”

 – Arthur Ashe

As you drive out of Walker’s River Camp there is a very narrow concrete causeway called “one beer” bridge, for obvious reasons. The evening before the staff in the camp said they had seen a Cheetah in the river bed in front of the camp, when we were out on our game drive.  We did not expect the Cheetah to stay close by during the night, but were surprised to see this female Cheetah on the camp side of the Klaserie river as we drove out of the camp the next morning at around 6h30. She was relaxed and had the fullest belly I have ever seen on a Cheetah, and no she was not pregnant.

It was very cold due to the temperature inversion in the riverbed, nevertheless we sat and watched this female Cheetah for about 20 minutes. She was looking around and smelling various marked areas but eventually crossed “one beer” bridge and walked along the riverbank until she found a suitable spot to drink. I am always amazed that the wildlife and birds are able to control their temperature because in this area they would have to tolerate plus 40 degrees centrigrade temperatures in summer and freezing in winter.

Cheetahs are runners not fighters so she was very wary and kept looking up to check there were no surprises.

Having sated her early morning thirst she  wandered up onto higher ground possibly because it was warmer and eventually lay down under a small bush. With a belly that full, we figured she would probably lie around that area all day, unless disturbed.

A little while later, once the sun had risen, we came upon this Fish Eagle on the ground next to a waterhole. Perhaps it was fishing for catfish but it had not caught anything by the time we arrived. The Fish Eagle did not like our presence and flew up into a dead tree overlooking the waterhole. It sat basking in the early morning sun for a while before deciding to fly off to a place with fewer eyes.

The Timbavati has a wonderful diversity of animals, birds and flora. The next image is of a wet Burchell’s Coucal which had fluffed itself up to keep warm and dry out. I am fascinated by these birds because that have wonderful colouring, a “liquid gold” call which is so distinctive and they are also serious predators.

We were driving along enjoying the warmth of the winter morning sun when Pat suddenly stopped. Across the road , hardly discernible, was a thin line of what looked like spider’s thread. This was the clue Pat needed to look for a particular caterpillar. Sure enough he found the a small group of Processionary Caterpillars on the trunk of a Marula tree. Convoys of these caterpillars are sometimes seen crossing roads and pathways in a single line, each caterpillar following another in a head-to-tail procession. Some of these processions can be 600 caterpillars long!

A while later with the sun higher in the sky, we found a small breeding herd of Elephant. They were browsing in reasonably thick bush so we parked some distance up wind. Slowly but surely they made the way towards us. The breeding herd had calves but the mothers were relaxed as they were progressing towards us not the other way around.

One little youngster could not resist hiding in a a low Mopani bush and peeking at us, as if we could not see it..

On our way back to the camp for breakfast, we stopped to photograph a band of Dwarf Mongooses which had hidden in an abandoned anthill.  The scouts in the group were wary, but inquisitive.

You do not often get a chance to photograph these little Mongooses, as they usually quickly run off into the undergrowth.

Being a keen bird phtographer, I always want to try to get a reasonable image of the birds we see. This was a Southern White-crowned Shrike which was very obliging and posed for a few seconds before flying off.

This is what remained of a Rhino courtesy of poachers!!!!!!!!!

“Sentiment without action is the ruin of the soul.”  

–Edward Abbey 

Further on we stopped at “hide” waterhole to see if anything had begun to feed on the submerged Wildebeest. Not even this crocodile had managed to get into it.

Just before we got back to the camp, we found our full bellied female Cheetah. She was just relaxing in the shade of a bush, very close to were we had left her some hours before. With her tummy that full she was not going anywhere.

The afternoon game drive was relatively quiet so we stopped before the sunset to have a sundowner. This is a time of the day, even in winter, when it is still relatively warm and the colours in the sky start to come alive. The dryness of winter produces more dust in the air which can result in spectacular sunsets. In the distance you can see Mariepskop, which is the northern most part of the Drakensberg range of mountains.

Sunsets in this part of the world are often at their best around 20 to 30 minutes after the sun has set. That is the time when the colours become really saturated and the sky is ablaze with reds, oranges, purples and blues. I always fell like I need to pinch myself when the sky is ablaze with colour like this because it seems so dream-like.

Pat turned on the lights of the game vehicle to signal to the photographers that it was time to go.

The sun set on another magic day in the bush.

“What I see everywhere in the world are ordinary people willing to confront despair, power, and incalculable odds in order to restore some semblance of grace, justice, and beauty to this world.”

– Paul Hawken

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun,

Mike

Sue and Neville Kelly were kind enough to invite us to join them and a group of their friends in the Timbavati at Walker’s River Camp for four days in the middle of June – it was a magic time. We were lucky enough to have Pat and Eileen Donaldson looking after us for the four days. Pat is a seasoned wildlife guide in the Timbavati area so knows the area intimately and Eileen was a wonderful host looking after us in the lodge. When you go into the bush as a “towny” you need someone with detailed knowledge of the area to be able to orient you in the limited time you have in the bush. Pat was just that person.

“Love meeting new people, travelling to new places, hearing new experiences and stories, and finding new evidence”.

 – Unknown

The Walker’s River Camp is located along the Klaserie river very close to the Timbavati gate. In 1956, a group of conservation minded landowners formed the Timbavati Association (http://www.timbavati.co.za/overview/history). The aim was to reclaim the land for the benefit of all. Today, there are over 50 members who have succeeded in restoring the land to its natural state with diverse and rare wildlife  and flora species. In 1993, in recognition of the importance of the area, the fences between the Kruger National Park and the Timbavati Game Reserve were removed to encourage natural species migration. 

The first birds we saw in Walker’s River Camp were were the Dusky and Black Flycatchers. They were very active from about 11h00 to 14h00 as that must have been the time of greatest insect activity. I only managed to get a reasonable image of a Dusky Flycatcher.

The first afternoon out we saw this Black-backed Jackal who was basking in the warm winter sun. He gave us nothing but a passing glance. There are many predators in the Timbavati so the Jackals can make a good living as long as they keep out of harm’s way.

The next morning we drove passed the closest waterhole, which we called “hide waterhole”, just to see what was going on there. A small family of Hippos were submerged in the icey morning water with the amber reflected dawn light silhouetting them.

A wider angle shot a short while later once the sun had started to rise across the “hide waterhole”. An adult Wildebeest had died in the water, cause unknown, and was lying semi-submerged for almost a day and surprisingly nothing had touched it by the time we had passed.

Further on we came across this lone young Hyaena returning from its night’s foraging. Judging from the size of its belly the night’s picking looked fairly lean. Surprisingly, it was not too far from the “hide waterhole” but this Hyaena seemed not to have scented the dead Wildebeest.

A juvenile Martial Eagle sitting in a large dead tree close to the waterhole presumably waiting for prey to come down for its last drink.

After some driving we came across a coalition of three male Lions – a dominant force on any terms. We found all three males lying deep in thick bush. After some time, two of the males moved into a more open area. One male was lying low in the short grass just watching us. Although he looks intimidating, he was relaxed but keeping an eye on us.

One of the other males decided to get up and go and investigate something that caught his attention down near the river. He was a magnificent fully grown specimen who looked like he could get what ever he wanted.

The scars on his nose show that he has had to fight for his current status and territory. It was still relatively early but the sun was up and the light was good which made his pupils contract into little black dots.

He walked across the sand road on his way down to the dry river bed. It is only when these male lions are in the open do you get a sense of just how big they are, and it is times like this you are grateful to be on the game vehicle and not on foot armed with nothing but a camera.

Down in the small river bed, a scent had caught his attention. 

After a short investigation he lost interest in the river bed scent and climbed up the bank, closer to us, in front of a big thorn bush and flopped down. I caught him just as he was reclining, looking  a touch too effeminate.

Now he looks more like a testosterone-driven male Lion. There were no Lionesses around so presumably these three males were just patrolling their territory.

I have included this image just to show you the environs in which we found this coalition.

After spending about three quarters of an hour watching these males do very little, we decided to find a spot some distance away to have our morning coffee break. We stopped at a small waterhole and I was struck by this solitary dead tree in the water suspending a colony of Buffalo Weaver nests which were lined with Village Weaver nests. There was hardly a ripple on the water and it was a warm South African winter morning in the bush, still and peaceful.

At this time of the year, the leaves of the Tambotei tree turn this deep red, really punctuating the brown, greens, oranges and yellows of the flora in winter.

There are quite a few waterholes in the Timbavati area. This was another example of the dead still, cool winter morning where the reflections in the water were near perfect.

On our way back to the camp, we stopped at the “hide waterhole” and disturbed this family of young Hippos. They immediately bolted for the water. As a photographer you try to catch that perfect moment when they launch themselves into the water.

A fraction of a second later, a relatively sedate entrance.

A view of another waterhole later that day at sunset. Whilst it is fun to get sunset images you need to be aware that there is crocodile, “flat dog”, which has seen you next to the water’s edge and is probably on its way over to greet you.

The magic of an African sunset.

The Timbavati is one of those special places in South Africa where landowners have co-operated for the common purpose of protecting the flora and wildlife and have taken down the fences and opened the area up to the Kruger Park allowing the animals unrestricted access. This map shows you the  lie of the land.

“Wilderness, in whatever way we describe it, becomes a chance for human beings to redeem their humanity. It is a place where we go to contemplate our origins, examine our past, and plan our future. It is manna for the soul and hope for all life.”

– Ian Player

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its inter-connectedness and let it be.

Have fun,

Mike

This is the last post from my recent trip with CNP to Etosha in May 2015. I have selected a few images which I think illustrate the feeling of the Etosha we saw. The starkness is countered by the abundant wildlife and amazing scenery.  The dryness and dust create some wonderful photographic opportunities. I have chosen to show the images as a gallery to illustrate my point rather than to mix the images with narrative.

Thirsty stripes.

Family time.

The first rays of sun.

Take a bow.

Safety in numbers.

“Many photographers think they are photographing nature when they are only caricaturing her.”

– Ralph Waldo Emerson

Hot footing Andoni.

Massive knowledge.

Oxpecker’s view.

Trunking water.

Bull stand off.

No competition.

“When I started my adventure in photography, I was suddenly introduced to the world around me. I can’t believe I have been so blind for too many years.”

– Laura Tate Sutton

Golden ivory.

Andoni fun run.

Prints in the pan.

Solitary stripes.

“Photography is a medium, a language, through which I might come to experience directly, live more closely with, the interaction between myself and nature.”

– Paul Caponigro

Wild dance at dawn.

Beyond Two Palms.

Martial meals.

Hyaena hydro.

Desert expert.

Terrapin heaven.

Springbok panning.

Towering trio.

“Keep your love of nature, for that is the true way to understand art more and more.”

–Vincent Van Gogh

Reflection over a drink.

A gathering of Giraffes.

An embassy of Eland.

Spooked stripes and wild beests.

Big sky and mirages.

Musth bull.

Transfixed transitions.

Preening Pelicans at Fishers.

Young play mates.

“A picture must not be invented, but felt. . . Close your bodily eye so that you may see your picture first with the spiritual eye. Then bring to the light of day that which you have seen in the darkness so that it may react upon others from the outside inwards…
The artist should not only paint what he sees before him, but also what he sees within him.  I must be entirely by myself, and know that I am alone in order to see and perceive Nature completely. Nothing should stand between her and myself. I must give myself to my surroundings, must merge with my clouds and cliffs in order to become what I am.”

– Caspar David Friedrich

A big thank you again to CNP for a wonderful five days in Etosha doing what I love. Also a big thank you to Johan Greyling for showing us they way!!!

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun,

Mike

This is the fourth post from my trip to Etosha with CNP in May 2015.

“Please be a traveler, not a tourist. Try new things, meet new people, and look beyond what’s right in front of you. Those are the keys to understanding this amazing world we live in.”

 –Andrew Zimmern

Etosha is the one park where I have seen not only the most Giraffe but also the largest gatherings of Giraffe at any one time. There are nine sub species of Giraffe which are identified primarily by their coat pattern and geography. The Angolan Giraffe is found in Namibia but unfortunately is not found in Angola anymore (http://www.giraffeconservation.org).

A tower of Giraffe at the Chudob waterhole.

Bull Giraffe can be identified by their size and obvious male body parts but also by the hair which has been worn off the top of their ossicones, probably during fighting. Ossicones are derived from ossified cartilage unlike antlers which are derived from bone. Ossifications on the head of male giraffe add weight, which often increases with age enabling a bull to deliver heavier blows during sparring contests. In older males a second horn grows behind the main ossicone but never fully develops. As male giraffes age, they can develop up to three of large calcified protrusions, two in the rear of the skull and one in the forehead region.

When young Giraffe come down to drink there is likely to be some action. Their youthful exuberance usually overflows. It looks like this young Giraffe’s tongue got left behind in the turn.

Leaping for joy!

The legs of a adult giraffe can be two metres long but almost half of this is actually the foot. The joint that functions as a knee is anatomically equivalent to a wrist or ankle. The giraffe balances on the tips of its hooves, but to support its weight these hooves can be 30 centimetres across.

Part of the young Giraffe’s tap dance routine. The older Giraffe also feel the need to dance at times.

Although this young Giraffe is just having fun and frolicking, the adult Giraffe also thump their front hooves on the ground in what seems a sign of dominance, especially around other species.

Giraffes have incredible tongues. The tongue can be 45 to 50 centimetres long. As you can see it is prehensile and can rub an itchy nose. The Giraffe uses its prehensile tongue to strip leaves off tree branches. Their tongues seem to be able to cope with the thorns of Acacia trees. Giraffes are herbivores feeding mainly on the tops and sides of trees and work in a complementary way with other browsers such as Kudu.

Male Giraffes stay close to a female in estrus frequently smelling her urine with a typical flehmen response, where they curl up their upper lip to allow the scent to pass over the Jacobson’s organ in the roof of the mouth. You can see the male is much larger than the female.

“One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.”

– Henry Miller 

Two young males tangling.

We watched sexual pairs doing their extended slow lover’s dance. We also watched young males sparring and testing themselves against each other.

There was much Giraffe activity around the Chudob waterhole. These two young males were sparring, nothing serious as they were not hitting each other hard.

The flexibility in the Giraffe’s neck is surprising. The Giraffe has the same number of vertebrae in its neck as a human, it is just that the vertebra are much longer.

The hair has been worn off the top of the ossicones on both of these young Giraffe indicating they are most likely males.

Being so tall, Giraffes cast wonderful reflections in the blue water of the Chudob waterhole.

“There are things known and there are things unknown, and in between are the doors of

perception.”

― Aldous Huxley

A young Giraffe at full gallop and completely airborne.

Some black and white treatment emphasises the shape of the neck and head of these two sparring Giraffe.

“I soon realised that no journey carries one far unless, as it extends into the world around us, it goes an equal distance into the world within.”

– Lillian Smith 

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun,

Mike

This is the third post from my recent trip with CNP Safaris to Etosha. The first two posts were of our mammal sightings, so I thought it was time to show off some of the birds we were privileged to see in Etosha in mid-May.

“Those who dwell among the beauties, and mysteries of the earth are never alone or weary of life.”

 – Rachel Carson 

Plenty of Kori Bustards came down to drink at the Chudob waterhole. There were times when we would see six to eight Kori’s around the water’s edge. They take long deep draws of water and, if not disturbed, could spend quarter of an hour drinking .

Judging from  the difference in size this was a pair of Kori Bustards, the male being the larger of the two. Male Kori Bustards, which can be more than twice as heavy than the female and attempt to breed with as many females as possible. They take no part in the raising of the young. So although they looked to have bonded this was probably a fleeting affair.

Often the Lapwings will dive bomb the Kori’s near the water which normally solicits a feathered response. When excited or threatened their neck feathers standout making themselves look bigger.

There were two pairs of Blacksmith Lapwings which had taken up residence around the Chudob waterhole. Every now and then the four would involve themselves in mock aerial combat. After tiring of a particular mock combat session, one pair of Blacksmith Lapwings decided to give this Kori Bustard a “rev”.

As you can see the Blacksmith gets quite close and the Kori was not taking any chances. Adding to their combat arsenal, the Blacksmith Lapwings have distinct spurs on the wing elbows which could do some damage.

Late one morning, we decided to do a little birding and took the drive around Fischer’s Pan. Toward the end of the drive, in the open pan near Two Palms waterhole, we came across a Tawny Eagle which had seen something in a solitary tuft of grass. It walked all around the tuft and jumped on top of it but nothing came out, so it eventually flew off.

The backdrops for wildlife photography can be unique and spellbinding in Etosha, especially in winter when it is so dry and dusty.

This handsome male Bateleur Eagle flew down to the Chudob waterhole to drink. He came in so quickly that I did not manage to get a shot without clipping one of his wings. Once he had landed, he quickly walked down to the water and began to drink with large scoops. He did not stay long as there were quite a few animals wandering around him. Females are larger than males and it can take an adult Bateleur over three years to lose its overall brown plumage. The male has a thick black edge to the underside of its primary wing feathers which can be clearly seen from below.

Along the Fischer Pan drive there were many Lilac-breasted Rollers perched on the thorn trees watching and waiting for insects. These birds are irresistible for wildlife photographers because they are so beautifully coloured and fly off very quickly, giving you little sign that they are about to take off from their perch. They are so named because of the rolling aerial displays which are extremely quick and erratic. Needless to say I have no good images of Lilac-breasted Rollers rolling.

These Rollers are fast, so it is always a challenge to get a decent flying image of these avian aerial acrobats.

At the Chudob waterhole there is a pair of Little Grebes (Dabchicks) and one Red-billed Teal. They happily co-exist, constantly swimming around the waterhole in among drinking antelope, Hyaenas and Elephants.

Every now and then the Little Grebe pair will stop their constant search for food and start to clean and preen themselves at the water’s edge.

A small flock of Namaqua Sandgrouse came in for a quick drink. You can always hear them coming as they sound like squeaky rubber ducks. They are also very quick fliers. The UCT-Fitzpatrick website aptly describes them as “desert nomads extraordinaire”. These seed-eating birds fly into the waterholes between 8h00 and 9h00 in the morning, usually in flocks, which can number a couple of hundred. The large numbers help protect them from predators while they are drinking. 

It is always fun to try and capture the reflections of the animals in the water. Obviously, Giraffe provide some of the biggest reflections. The Blacksmith Lapwings were very active at both waterholes and are quite cheeky with the other birds and even animals.

Every now and then a number of Fork-tailed Drongos would swoop over the water to get a drink. The trick was to get them drinking in the reflection.

The solitary Red-billed Teal doing his thing at the Chudob waterhole.

A trio of Cape Shovellers swimming along the Klein Namutoni waterhole late in the afternoon.

This little Killitz Plover had found a termite nest and was having a feast. They can usually be found patrolling the edge of the waterholes.

This little Plovers feed on insects, earthworms, crustaceans, and molluscs.

There were great gatherings of Guineafowl around the Chudob waterhole. This is always an exciting time because we had, in the past, seen Martial Eagles, attack these flocks around water’s edge. The drama is extraordinary and thrilling to watch and hear. The Martial would normally perch in a tree about 150 metres away from the water and sit and watch and wait. Then all of a sudden it would take off and fly at speed in towards the waterhole about 10 metres above the ground in full attack mode. When this massive raptor flies passed you at speed it sounds like an aircraft. Unfortunately, we did not get to see the Martial applying its art- this time!!

Despite their looks, Guineafowl are intelligent. There are always sentries looking for danger. They move together to make it more bewildering for the attacker to single out an individual. Added to this they are quick of wing and foot.

It is not always easy to find a Guineafowl standing still and even more difficult to find one with a clear background.

This Glossy Ibis is a wader  and was very busy probing for food in the the soil at the  water’s edge. They eat insects, crustaceans, worms, molluscs, fish, frogs and small reptiles. 

The head, neck, back and underparts of an adult Glossy Ibis are a rich chestnut-brown. Their wings are black with a metallic green sheen. There is white stripe from the base of the bill to above the eye. The Glossy Ibis is more slender than the Hadeda Ibis and has a longer bill. It is also thankfully quieter!

Grey Louries are frequent visitors to the waterholes at Etosha. They tend to congregate in family groups of up to ten individuals and they make sure you know they are there with their characteristic “go-away” call. 

The Grey Lourie is usually found in savanna woodland. It is an awkward flier but extremely agile when clambering through the tops of trees. It has a distinctive loud alarm call “quare”, which many interpret as “go away”. The crest is raised when excited.

Gabar Goshawks patrol the waterholes for prey. They usually wait in the treeline surrounding the waterholes. These raptors seem to go for smaller birds such as Weavers and Quelea.

We were fortunate to find a melanistic Gabar Goshawk at the Chudob waterhole. The melanistic form has black plumage, with pale grey bars across flight feathers above, and white barring below. It has red legs scales which are flecked with black. We only saw the melanistic Gabar on one occasion, but it was a real treat.

In the centre of the Chudob waterhole was a clump of reeds. Often the Gabars would land in the reeds and wait and watch for their prey to arrive.

Juvenile Gabar Goshawks have various shades of brown plumage. Their upper parts are brown with pale streaked head, and pale edges on body feathers.  Their under parts are white, broadly streaked brown on chest, and barred brown on belly. Their cere and legs are more orange-red than the adult.

This is one mean raptor. It strikes from cover, but also searches for prey on the wing while flying very fast. It is also known to follow its prey into bushes, and like a typical Goshawk will clamber through the branches to get at its prey. They also rob the nests of birds breeding in colonies. The Gabar Goshawk feeds mainly on birds but will also take small mammals and reptiles when it can find them.

“If you will stay close to nature, to its simplicity, to the small things hardly noticeable, those things can unexpectedly become great and immeasurable.”  

– Rainer Maria Rilke

Cape Turtle Doves are beautiful but common. Our key interest was to practice shooting these speedsters taking off once they had their drink of water.

There were times of the day when hundreds of Cape Turtle and Emerald Spotted Wood-doves would fly in for a drink.

The best way to consistently get good images of these Doves taking off was to watch and pick up their drinking patterns. Invariably, the Turtle Doves would have two long draws of water and look up each time to check the “coast was clear” and more often than not it would take off after the second long draw of water. Of course, the odd one would take five or six draws of water and you would take many images of static drinking Doves.

Last light in the afternoon at the Klein Namutoni waterhole. We would often see ducks swimming in a line. We saw Red-billed Teal, Cape Shovellers, Egyptian Geese and South African Shellducks. The next image is of three Cape Shovellers cruising along in the warm evening light.

Much to our surprise after an unproductive trip to Andoni Plains at the north-east side of Etosha,  on the most westerly side of Fischer Pan in what was the remaining water, we found a small flock of White-backed Pelicans. Shooting directly into the sun made a more interesting silhouette.

“Nature has introduced great variety into the landscape, but man has displayed a passion for simplifying it. Thus he undoes the built-in checks and balances by which nature holds the species within bounds.”
― Rachel Carson, Silent Spring

One of the best birding spots in Etosha is Fisher’s Pan. When the rains gather in the pan you can see Flamingos, Open-billed, Yellow-billed and Saddle-billed Storks, and Great Crested and Black-Necked Grebe can also be seen. After good rains during January and February, the 5 000 km² Etosha Pan fills with water and at times attracts vast flocks of Flamingoes.

There are many Yellow-billed Hornbills waiting to be photographed around Fischer’s Pan. I did not get to see the Monterio’s Hornbill this time trip.

We often see Greater Kestrels close to the road at Etosha. This individual was perched on top of a thorn bush in good light. Greater Kestrels are essentially an open-country species and they prefer desert to semi-desert conditions. They hunt from a high perch with a good view of the surrounding area. If nothing high is available then they will use termite mound or rocks to hunt from.

I managed to get a reasonable shot of the Greater Kestrel taking off. 

This was the only reasonable image I could get of a Pale Chanting Goshawk. It was perched in a bush at the side of the road. Usually they flew off just as you stopped and were trying to get your camera ready.

As you can see there is a wonderful variety of birds in Etosha even in winter. Etosha is home to 340 bird species, about a third of which are migratory. The avian residents of the park make up an eclectic mix that ranges from Flamingos to the colourful Lilac-breasted Roller and 35 species of Eagle. Bateleur, Tawny Eagle and Martial Eagle are common. A number of perch hunters such as Goshawks and Kestrels can be seen along the tree-lines and eight species of Owl can be spotted after sunset. The Vultures that visit Etosha include Lapped-faced, White-backed, Cape and Hooded Vultures and “Dr Death” the Marabou Storks.

“Africa changes you forever, like nowhere on Earth. Once you have been here, you will never be the same. But how do you begin to describe its magic to someone who has never felt it? How can you explain the fascination of this vast, dusty continent, whose oldest roads are elephant paths?”

 – Brian Jackman

This map shows you the eastern part of Etosha in which we operated.

“Those who contemplate the beauty of the earth find reserves of strength that will endure as long as life lasts. There is something infinitely healing in the repeated refrains of nature — the assurance that dawn comes after night, and spring after winter.”
― Rachel Carson, Silent Spring

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be,

Have fun,

Mike

This is the second post from my recent trip with CNP Safaris to Etosha in mid-May 2015.

Some might think it is boring to go to the same two waterholes day after day. Nothing could be farther from the truth. The two waterholes we frequented were within easy access of the Namutonicamp and Von Lindequist gate. Firstly, Klein Namutoni is an afternoon waterhole as the sun sets on your back in the afternoon and shines directly into your face in the early mornings. So not only does the light change considerably but so too does the passing parade. While there are some regulars, the congregations of game change during the day and from day to day. The waterhole is large and elliptical in shape and its surrounds are littered with white calcrete stones, which give it that characteristic Etosha look.

The Chudob waterhole has the parking area on its north and north-west side so you can photograph in the mornings and afternoons. Chudob is much smaller and circular and you are closer to the game. This waterhole is in a saucer shaped indentation which can provide some wonderful perspectives.

Some days are warm and sunny and the air is still. During these conditions the game is more active and often the animals venture right into the water to cool off. Other days when the wind is blowing, it usually cooler, and the game is uneasy and skittish as their hearing and smell senses are diminished by the wind.

“Extraordinary magic is woven through ordinary life. Look around!”
― Amy Leigh Mercree

Sometimes the regulars bring their young ones down to the water and that is usually the catalyst you need to get some fun shots.

There are distinct pairings of Zebra, even though there is a strict hierarchy in the family group. Certain individuals seem to be very fond of each other.

Warthogs usually come down to drink and wallow at the water’s edge either singly or as parents with their youngsters.

A Warthog male had a long drink to slake his thirst and then unabashed lay down to roll in the cool sand at the water’s edge. This particular fellow was quite confident and disregarded all the other animals which came down to drink. If there had been predators such as Hyaenas, I am sure he would have been less indulgent.

These characters can be very funny – difficult to photograph when you are laughing.

One of the special aspects about the waterholes in Etosha is that the game seems to mix it up. The herbivores tolerate each other around the water’s edge. I guess there is always safety in numbers and more eyes watching for predators lurking along the treeline. The Guineafowl are also good sentries.

Some of the Kudu families were quite big. They seemed to thrive on the thick bush and tree vegetation, being browsers. It is interesting to watch animals and birds drink. They usually have a pattern, say four long draws of water before they look up to check if all is still safe. Birds are the same, especially Doves. Watching for these patterns helps you anticipate the animal or bird’s next move.

The Kudu bulls were big but nothing like as big as the Eland. It is clear that the larger herbivores do not fuss about small predators such as the two Black-backed Jackal. All the animals wandering around the 100 metre clearing between the water and treeline are wary because of what can emerge from the trees.

Generally, the small Zebra herds were very orderly.

The Kudu families were also orderly but both Zebra and Kudu were skittish down at the water’s edge. It was that sudden dash out of the water we were waiting for.

Practicing for when he is big but much to learn!!

This Kudu female was spooked by something. Often it is just a Giraffe humping its hooves on the ground exerting its dominance around the waterhole. The waterhole rule seems to be that if you hear someone else running away from the water it is a good idea to start running away too.

This is what makes a ordinary waterhole a fascinating place to take photographs. One second a Kudu female can be quietly drinking and an alarm call or an unusual sound triggers the flight response and the the next second the same female spins around to bolt away from the water’s edge, splashing water everywhere.

“Bloodlines and last names didn’t make a man extraordinary — the extraordinary existed in what we did in life, not in who we were.”
― Courtney Alameda, Shutter

Some animals just walk away from the water once they have had their fill, others want to get away as quick as possible.

Heads down drinking but eyes wide open searching across the water to ensure all is safe and calm.

Mature Eland bulls have a tuft of curly hair on their foreheads. When they walk down to drink you can hear the distinctive clicking of their tendons. In the BMC Biology journal ( http://www.biomedcentral.com/1741-7007/6/47/abstract ) scientists  Bro-Jorgensen and Dabelsteen  showed that the loudness of the clicking sounds produced by walking eland bulls correlated to body size and signalled a bulls’ fighting potential. The sound is thought to be made as a tendon in the animals’ legs slips over one of the leg bones, and can be heard from hundreds of meters away. In this case, the tendon  behaves like a string being plucked, and the frequency of the sound from a string correlates negatively with both its length and diameter, so the sound signals the size and fighting fitness of the Eland bull.  The clicking tendons adds to the list of signals an Eland bull uses to indicate its status. Other signs such as the dewlap under their throats which indicates age, and the darkness of their hair which indicates levels of aggression. The characteristics help bulls establish mating rights among each other usually without actual fights.

This mature Kudu bull heard something he did not like while he was drinking. These are the moments we wait for as wildlife photographers. 

It is not only the youngsters which stir things up around the waterhole but dominant stallions and bulls do the same. This Zebra stallion was galloping around some of his mares twisting and turning in swirls of dust.

“We wait, starving for moments of high magic to inspire us, but life is full of common enchantment waiting for our alchemists eyes to notice.”
― Jacob Nordby

I have seen Eland bulls dig their horns into the dirt and the old Buffalo bulls called “Dagga boys” also do it coating their bosses with mud and vegetation. I have never before seen a Kudu bull dig his horns into the ground.

I could not resist this Kudu bull’s antics while trying to avoid being bitten by something. He was twisting and turning to try and get at the bitten spot. It is quite remarkable how supple these large browsers can be.

“Hope but never expect, look forward but never wait!!!”

 – Unknown

Impalas are  quick and agile antelope, which are  capable of jumping over three metres in the air performing displays called ‘pronking’. When startled, a whole herd will begin to pronk in order to confuse their predators and is also used to demonstrate the health and strength of the individual.

There must be some primal instinct in these Impala because they still watch the surface of the water as if looking for something like crocodiles lurking under the surface.

It is not often you will see all the Impala’s heads down drinking. they are usually very wary.

After a gestation period of seven months the female Impala will produce a single fawn. The female is capable of delaying the birth by an extra month if conditions are harsh. The fawn will often be isolated from the herd while the female is nursing it. Fawns are weaned at four to six months. They join a nursery group until they are old enough to join the adult herd. Matured males will be forced out of the herd and will go off to join bachelor groups.

Gemsbok can often be found in large groups as they are gregarious animals. Their social system tolerates non-territorial males among the females and young.  Males tend to be solitary and defend a territory but are known to spend a short period with a larger herd of females before moving off  on their own again.

Male dominance is hierarchy based on age and size.  Ritual displays usually replace actual contact, except between evenly matched individuals who may still fight to establish their rank. Gemsbok males often spar with their sharp, spear-like horns, but serious fights are rare.

Female Gemsbok horns are usually longer and thinner than the males!!!

You will not see an Impala knee deep in water but it is not uncommon for Springbok to walk right into the water to drink..

A small group of Springbok spooked by something down at the waterhole.

The next image shows fellow photographer Hennie Blignaut standing in front of one of CNP specialised photographic vehicles in the Namutoni camp car park. There are two photographic seats mounted in the back of the vehicle. These custom photographic chairs have an integrated camera support for heavy camera-lens combinations giving 360-degree horizontal movement. The camera support has a Wimberley Head which is a specialised tripod head for telephoto lenses. It is a gimbal-type design allowing you to 360 degree horizontal rotation and major vertical rotation of your lens around its centre of gravity. The customised seat is positioned in front of large goose-wing windows which lift out of the way to provide generous visual space for your camera.

“Nature is so powerful, so strong.Capturing its essence is not easy – your work becomes a dance with light and the weather. It takes you to a place within yourself”.

 – Annie Leibovitz

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun,

Mike

This is the first post from my recent photographic workshop with CNPSafaris to Etosha. It was late mid-May and the weather was perfect. Cool in the mornings but hot during the day and warm in the evening. We hardly needed jerseys. Each morning we would get up at 5h00 and be having breakfast at 5h30 so that we could be at the Namutoni park entrance by opening time- 6h15. The trip was essentially a photographic workshop and was a great learning experience for me not the least of which was because of my software conversion from Capture NX to Adobe’s Lightroom. Nikon will no longer support Capture NX with new model upgrades so we will probably not be able to read the raw files from future generation Nikon cameras.

“The biggest adventure you can ever take is to live the life of your dreams.”
― Oprah Winfrey

I have made the conversion and have not looked back. The images in this post are the my first batch from Lightroom.

Just after the Namutoni gate opened, we were travelling along the main road into the park when se saw this solitary young male Lion. It looked as if he had been feeding the night before. He was strolling along a path which ran parallel to the main tar road. It was still relatively dark. As always with wildlife you have to chose your moments. He was walking passed many bushes and branches but we managed to get a few clear foreground images even though the background was messy.

Once in the park we alternated between Klein Namutoni waterhole near the Namutoni camp and Chudob waterhole about 15kms to the south-west of the Namutoni camp. It was dry so there was not much point in wandering around as the game would concentrate around the waterholes. The bush away from the pans was thick making it difficult to see the game. We saw many Hyaenas around the Chudob waterhole. There must have been a den just inside the treeline on the west side of the waterhole. Each day the Hyaenas would come down to drink and bathe in ones and twos.

On those days when its was relatively still and hot, the Hyaenas would come down to drink and invariably sit down in the water.

There was always one individual who would like to get itself completely wet.

We never saw the whole clan come down to drink together. I am sure if there had been an injured Kudu or Zebra at the waterhole thing would have been quite different.

The Hyaenas seemed obvious of the animals around them when they were at the waterhole. The Kudu and Impala and some of the Zebra gave them plenty of room. The occasional  Zebra stallion would take the opportunity to chase a solitary Hyaena away from the waterhole.

This female Hyaena looked particularly pregnant and invariably came down to drink on her own.

On a different morning, at first light we arrived at the Klein Namutoni waterhole just as the sun was rising. We were looking directly into the sun watching the youngsters in the Lion pride cavorting in the dust.

We had seen the Lions on the road from Naumtoni camp towards Fischer’s pan the evening before and Johan anticipated that they would go down to Klein Namutoni waterhole.

Some exposure reduction, increased contrast and boosting of the white balance generated a dramatic effect.

The Lions had great fun for about 15 minutes and once the sun was up they wandered off to rest in the bush and we did not see them again.

“Here’s to freedom, cheers to art. Here’s to having an excellent adventure and may the stopping never start.”
― Jason Mraz

We got to see Cheetah and even a Leopard but from a distance and certainly nothing good enough to photograph. More active predators around the Chudob waterhole were the two Black-backed Jackal families. The one family comprised a mother and her two almost fully grown pups.

The one pup was extremely demanding but the mother was remarkably patient. The pup seemed to be licking her muzzle much in the same way that Wild dog pups do to get the adult to regurgitate food for them.

The Jackals caught the attention of a Giraffe who came down to see what was going on.

The second Black-backed Jackal family consisted of a pair with no pups. They were very playful and at times madly chasing each around. Normally you will hear Jackals before you see them but the two families we saw regularly around the Chudob waterhole were absolutely quiet.

The Jackals gave the Hyaenas plenty of room and seemed to operate at the treeline around 100 metres away from the waterhole.

Here are a few more images of the Hyaenas having their morning constitutional. In fact, the Hyaenas would come down to drink right through the day.

Although the Hyaenas seemed to be the top predator around the Chudob waterhole, they always gave way to the pachyderms.

I will publish separate posts on the many giraffes we saw around the waterholes, the herbivores, pachyderms and birds.

We had a great trip and a special thank you to Johan Greyling of CNPSafaris for teaching us so much both in-camera and about Lightroom. I shared the  experience with photographer Hennie Blignaut. He and I both learnt much from Johan, which laced with Hennie’s wonderful sense of humour was great fun.

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

– Mark Twain

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun,

Mike

This post does not follow my usual format. I have written this post to share some fascinating insights into Spurfowl, particularly Swainson’s, which I gained from the last few trips with long standing friend, Nic Dinham. Two weekends ago we went down to an eco-farm in the Free State in South Africa called “Wag n’ Bietjie” run by Andre and Ardri Hoffman. The reason for the trip was to count gamebirds ahead of the hunting season to assess viability. While I am not a fan of hunting,  I realise the need to understand the dynamics and context of this activity before making any judgement. Apart from anything else, I have good friends who hunt (some are Falconers and some are Wingshooters). They love the bush and have a great knowledge and appreciation for wildlife, and follow recognised ethical rules related to their sport to ensure its sustainability. Like photography, a crucial component of hunting whether with a sparrowhawk, a gun or a camera is that you have to understand the behaviour of your subject to be able to get into the right position to get the best “shot”!!!!!

“Curing environmental ills requires not a stance outside nature, but a stance within nature, a role not as onlooker without, but as an actor within.”   – Valerius Geist

Andre is  a very knowledgeable man, born and bred in the area and has a detailed knowledge of insects, birds, game and fishing. The eco-farm is bordered on its north side by the Vaal river. The information I am sharing is ancedotal. I have not done any field studies on the Swainson’s Spurfowl. Whilst not technically rigorous, I thought birders might find some of the information interesting, or thought provoking at least.

Swainson’s Spurfowl was named after English ornithologist and artist William John Swainson. Swainson became the first illustrator and naturalist to use lithography.

Taxonomy

Taxonomy involves the description, naming and classifying of species and higher taxa (genera, families, orders, etc.). The Swainson’s Spurfowl is classified in the genus Pternistis within the family phasianidae ( pheasants and partridges, Junglefowl chickens, quail and peafowl). The clade Phasianidae is the largest of the branch Galliformes ( terrestrial gamebirds), comprising more than 150 species. Modern taxonomies of francolins recognise 41 congeneric species, forming the largest genus of terrestrial gamebirds.

Galliformes are heavy-bodied ground-feeding game birds. Most are plump-bodied with thick necks and moderately long legs, and have rounded and rather short wings. They do not fly long distances and prefer to walk or run. Many adult males have one to several sharp horny spurs on the back of each leg, which they use for fighting.

Of the approximately 40 extant species in the genus Francolinus, all but five are endemic to Africa.  Twelve of the species which occur in Africa are found in the subcontinental region of southern Africa. Of the African species, seven occur in  Namibia. Six southern African Francolins are considered endemic to the subcontinent, of which three are found in Namibia (Hartlaub’s Spurfowl, Red-billed Spurfowl, and Orange River Francolin). The Cape Spurfowl is endemic to the Cape Province of South Africa and occurs marginally in southern Namibia. Greywing Spurfowl inhabit the more mountains and alpine terrain in South Africa and are found at elevations of between 1850 and 2700 metres above seas level.

Francolins and Spurfowls were traditionally placed in one of the largest genera of birds. Research conducted and published by the Percy FitzPatrick Institute has confirmed that based on their anatomy, behaviour and molecular biology that Francolins and Spurfowl form at least two evolutionarily distinct groups, the ‘true’ Francolins (Francolinus sensu stricto, Dendroperdix, Peliperdix and Scleroptila spp.) and Spurfowls (Pternistis spp.). Molecular research has shown  distinct differences between Francolins and Spurfowls in the calls and anatomy of their syrinxes (avian voice-boxes). Recent ecological and behavioural studies show that Francolins are relatively small, ground-roosting birds, and Spurfowls (Pternistis spp.) are larger birds which roost in trees.

Identification

The Swainson’s Spurfowl colouration is cryptic as would be expected of terrestrial birds. Its plumage is brown overall, with black streaks. Its face around the eyes down to the beak and throat are bare and the skin is red in colour. It legs are black, whereas the Red-necked Spurfowl has red legs and the upper and lower bill of its beak are both red. There is minimal sexual dimorphism either in or outside the breeding season. The only outward difference is that the males are bigger than the females and have large spurs on their tarsi ( just above their ankles).

The bill is short and strong which is needed to dig to obtain food. The upper bill is black and lower bill is red.

Spurfowl are classified as Passerines because of the arrangement of their toes (three pointing forward and one back) which enables them to perch on branches.

Spurfowls, as their name suggests, have spurs on their tarsi. They can have two spurs on each leg. The male’s spurs are usually well-developed. You can tell the age of a male by the condition and degree to which his spurs have been worn down through fighting over territory. In the next image the spurs on this male Swainson’s Spurfowl have been worn down suggesting he is an older, battle worn male.

Habitat

Swainson’s seem to prefer disturbed areas such as you would find in farming area. The Bothaville maize farming region is a perfect area to find them Swainson’s Spurfowl can be found in the inland areas of Angola, Botswana, Lesotho, Malawi,Mozambique, Namibia, South Africa,Swaziland, Zambia, and Zimbabwe.

Scent

Until I saw English and German Short-haired Pointers (GSPs) working the fields, I never realised that Spurfowl and Francolin had scent.  There is no doubt that these birds leave a scent trail through the grass and under small bushes which these dogs can pick up. Presumably, Jackal,  Caracal , Mongooses, Leopards and Serval also use scent to locate these game birds. What I find even more fascinating is that these birds lose their scent during breeding season. Presumably, this is an adaptation because they nest on the ground.

“Harmony with land is like harmony with a friend; you cannot cherish his right hand and chop off his left. That is to say, you cannot love game and hate predators… The land is one organism.”
― Aldo Leopold

I have never seen a Swainson’s Spurfowl nest, but according to “Roberts Nest and Eggs of Southern Africa” by Warwick Tarboton, the nest is usually built in a shallow scrape in the ground lined roughly with grass and sometimes feathers.  The eggs are most often  laid in the months, December to  April, which is why the hunting season does not  open before May each year.

Food

The Swainson’s Spurfowl is omnivorous meaning that its feeds on seeds, insects but the food mix is seasonal. The population of gamebirds can vary significantly according to the season where in winter with less food around the population can drop as much as 30% in a season, according to gamebird counters.

Flight

The shape of the wing is an important factor in determining the types of flight of which the bird is capable. Different shapes correspond to different trade-offs between characteristics, such as speed, low energy use, and maneuverability. Spurfowl, like most of the non-migratory passerines have elliptical wings which are short and rounded. As such they have a low aspect ratio, allowing for tight maneuvering in confined spaces such as might be found in dense vegetation. This elliptical shape wing gives the Spurfowl rapid take-off capability which is needed to evade both terrestrial and aerial predators.  Swainson’s Spurfowl would prefer to sneek away from you through the grass than fly. When flushed, they jump up and flap rapidly to accelerate and quickly reach  glide height. From there they glide into their landing point which is not usually more than 100 metres away.

Socialisation

The species are monogamous. These Spurfowl tend to be found in pairs when breeding but outside that period can be found in coveys of up to eight birds. They seem to come out into the open, along the farm roads and open verges alongside the maize fields at first light to socialise and presumably re-establish  and maintain their coveys, in much the same way Zebra harems re-assemble after a night where family members have been scattered by Lions or Hyaenas.

“We abuse land because we see it as a commodity belonging to us. When we see land as a community to which we belong, we may begin to use it with love and respect.”
― Aldo Leopold

Early in the morning you can often see a male Swainson’s Spurfowl on an anthill or low bush declaring to all who can hear that this is his territory. Once it starts to warm up, the Spurfowl move onto the lands to feed on anything from old maize seeds, to black-Jack seeds and insects.

By midday when it is hottest, the Spurfowl seek shade in among trees and bushes.

Later in the afternoon when it starts to cool down the Spurfowl can be seen moving back onto the lands to feed again. This is often a time of vocalisation, just to remind the neighbours that it is still their territory.

Most Spurfowl, such as Swainsons’, roost at night in either trees or bushes, which ever are available, to minimise predation. When roosting in trees, Spurfowl tend to occupy the lower branches. Guineafowl also roost in trees but they can usually be found at the top of the trees. I am not sure why each has a different roosting level, but it could be just the greater numbers of Guineafowl.

The female Spurfowl can lay between three and 12 eggs in a clutch, which she will incubate for around 21 to 24 days. The chicks are precocial, meaning they can fend for themselves from hatching. Precocial birds are born with their eyes open and have downy feathers which soon grow to adult feathers after hatching. These chicks are able to leave their nest within 24 hours of hatching to find their own food. Many precocial chicks cannot thermo-regulate (regulate their own body temperatures), and depend on their parent to brood them with body heat for a short period of time. Impressively, they are also able to fly short distances after about two weeks and are  fully grown, size wise, after around three months.

Like Guineafowl, Sandgrouse, and Bee-eaters, Swainson’s Spurfowl can be seen dust bathing to rid themselves of parasites.

Coveys

Swainson’s Spurfowl live in coveys of seven to nine birds and are usually family groups. They are territorial. Generally, the younger birds tend to fly first when flushed from their hiding place and are often the first ones taken by predators.  These Spurfowl, typical of terrestrial gamebirds, would rather run than fly but if they cannot runaway they will fly.

Gamebirds need three elements – food. cover and water – so when looking for Swainson’s Spurfowl establish the close proximity of these three elements and there is a good chance of finding them.

This post was aimed at giving a popular science angle for interest rather than scientific treatise. The idea was to share information rather than be definitive. Again when delving deeper into a species, an overwhelming factor is that these Spurfowl are perfectly adapted to their environment and each aspect of the bird serves a necessary function.

It is crucial we understand the dynamics of these Spurfowl populations in order to ensure the farming and gamebird hunting communities participate constructively in these areas and do not decimate the gamebird populations. Inevitably, as human activity encroaches more and more on natural wildlife habitats, their wildlife and gamebird carrying capacity is negatively impacted. We do not want to exacerbate the situation. 

The more we get to understand the finer details about these gamebirds (and our natural world), the more fascinating they become and more we respect their incredible adaptation to the rigours of their environment. We are only scratching at the surface of these libraries of wildlife knowledge and information. The more we know, the better we understand, the more we respect those creatures around us and more we realise we are part of the whole, an intricate interconnected web of life.

“Like winds and sunsets, wild things were taken for granted until progress began to do away with them. Now we face the question whether a still higher ‘standard of living’ is worth its cost in things natural, wild and free. For us of the minority, the opportunity to see geese is more important than television.”
― Aldo Leopold

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its inter-connectedness and let it be.

Have fun,

Mike