In preparation for my return trip to Zakouma in Chad in late March, my wife, Helen, and I decided to visit Magoebaskloof Birders Cottages in Magoebaskloof Valley . The intention was to explore a new part of the country and get photographic practice ahead of my big trip to just below the Sahara. The Birders Cottages are located in the Magoebaskloof valley between Polokwane and Tzaneen. Magoebaskloof is situated at the north-eastern tip of the Drakensberg mountain range and the Wolkberg in Limpopo Province, South Africa. The birders cottages are located on Dragonwyck Farm which is midway down the Drakensberg escarpment.

“Nothing develops intelligence like travel.” ~ Emile Zola

In the past, the Magoebaskloof Valley comprised mainly of grassland and there have always been patches of mist-belt forest in ravines and along river lines. Today, most of these forest patches remain but the grasslands have been repurposed with avocado, macadamia and bluegums, though the bluegum plantations are being progressively replaced with avocado and macadamia orchards.

“Patience removes frustration: Practice restores confidence: Perseverance makes it happen.” ― Charles F. Glassman

Black and White mannikins visited us each day in front of the Narina Trogon cottage, one of the three cottages on Dragonwyck farm.

Magoebaskloof Birders Cottages are located midway down the escarpment in Magoebaskloof valley which is thickly forested. From these cottages we could easily access the grass valleys around Haenertsburg, the Woodbush Forest Reserve, sub tropical areas around Tzaneen and the Hans Merensky Nature Reserve, all of which are excellent birding areas.

“Practice creates more connections among the neurons, which push you a little further towards perfection.”
― Abhijit Naskar

The birding in Dragonwyck farm is excellent. A total of 107 bird species have been directly recorded on Dragonwyck Farm itself, while the surrounding Southern African Bird Atlas Project 2 (SABAP2) pentad area (pentad 2350_3000) lists 226 recorded species. A few of the specials we were hoping to see and photograph were the Black-fronted Bush-Shrike, Narina Trogon, Orange Ground-Thrush, Yellow-throated Woodland-Warbler, Green Twinspot, White-starred Robin-Chat, Chorister Robin-Chat, Blue-mantled Crested Flycatcher, Cape Parrot and Crowned Eagle.

We put millet on the rocks in front of the cottage to attract small seed-eating birds such as firefinches and mannikins. The African firefinches look very similar to Jameson’s firefinches but the former have a grey-brown neck and black rump.

We spent four days at the Magoebaskloof Birders Cottages in February. Two of the days we spent looking for birds ourselves. The other two days we spent with well-known bird guide, David Letsaolo. We had two hot sunny days and two days of intermittent rain.

Each cottage is surrounded by indigenous plants providing the ideal habitat for many birds, and animals such as Bushbuck and Samango monkeys. There are walks on the farm some which follow the streams and others provide access to escarpment forest.

By putting millet out for the birds we attracted a family of Striped mice which were daily visitors. They were very skittish probably because everything in the bush wants to eat them.

Helen and I spent hours looking for birds on Dragonwyck farm. We heard Narina Trogons and Cape parrots but never saw either species. We saw Crowned eagles from a distance flying high above us. They were nesting in one of the huge bluegums further up the escarpment. Our birding endeavours were not very productive from a photographic point of view. We found the best birding photographic opportunities were around the cottage. The flowers around the cottage attracted this male Greater double-collared sunbird which was in the process of growing the full iridescent green plumage on his head and back.

The flowers also attracted this male Amethyst sunbird. The iridescent blue-green patch on the crown of his head can only be seen when the light catches it at certain angles. The iridescent amethyst feathers can be seen in his throat and rump.

On the second last day we joined well-known local bird guide David Letsoalo who is based in Polokwane but hosts bird guiding trips around Haenertsburg, Magoebaskloof, Tzaneen, and Hans Merensky Nature Reserve. His knowledge of birds, trees and plants is exceptional. Ninety percent of the birds he finds he does so by identifying the direction and distance of their calls which significantly narrows down the search for the location of the bird that is calling. One of the aspects of birding with David was that many of the birds were more than 30 metres away which even with a 1100mm telephoto lens made the photography difficult especially with branches and grasses in the way.

“Hear how the birds, on every blooming spray, With joyous music wake the dawning day.” ~ Alexander Pope

The first area we visited on the first morning with David was the grassland valleys near Haenertsburg. There we saw Fan-tailed grassbirds and Yellow bishops. Many of the birds were too far away to get a decent detailed photograph of them.

After the grasslands, we returned to Magoebaskloof and turned down Forest Drive to visit the Woodbush Forest Reserve. Woodbush is an Afromontane mist-belt forest which has a high annual rainfall. On our way along the Forest drive we saw Drakensberg prinias in the vegetation along the road.

“Birds are a miracle because they prove to us there is a finer, simpler state of being which we may strive to attain.” ~ Douglas Coupland

The Drakensberg prinia prefers the ferns, scrub and tangled grass along the forest edges.

In a similar area to the Drakensberg prinia we saw this African Yellow warbler. David located this diminutive warbler by its call.

This African yellow warbler looked a little bedraggled because it had been raining. We were looking for Yellow-throated woodland warbler as we entered the forest but never saw one.

A Rattling cisticola in the hedgerow next to the Forest Drive road leading to the Woodbush forest above Magoebaskloof valley. Again we found this cisticola after hearing and locating its call.

Ginger lilies (genus Hedychium) thrive in the Afromontane Woodbush forest but they are a significant ecological concern. While beautiful and heavily fragrant, they are highly aggressive alien invasive plants that threaten the native biodiversity of this pristine ecosystem.

Once we got into the Woodbush Forest it was very humid, hot and very slippery underfoot with lots of moss on the tree roots and fallen logs. Again we were filled with expectation about getting a decent image of a Narina Trogon. We heard them but never got a good visual on one as they usually had their back to us and were high up in the forest canopy. One of the birds we wanted to see was the Black-fronted bush-shrike which is endemic to these afromontane forests.

“A heart without dreams is like a bird without feathers.” ~ Suzy Kassem

The Black-fronted bush-shrike is a small bush shrike that looks similar to an Orange breasted bushshrike but has a black band that covers it ears, eyes and the front of its forehead above the beak. This species is also highly location specific.

On the last day of our Magoebaskloof stay, David took me down to the Hans Merensky Nature Reserve and to several birding hotspots around Tzaneen. The Hans Merensky Nature Reserve, also known as the Hans Merensky Wilderness, is a 5 268-hectare protected area in the Lowveld of Limpopo Province, South Africa. This nature reserve is located about 70 km northeast of Tzaneen along the southern bank of the Letaba River near the Kruger National Park. It offers a flat bushveld landscape characterised by mopane and combretum trees We walked around a section of the reserve which followed the Letaba river. We saw two flocks of Retz’s helmet-shrikes. They were easy to identify by their chattering as the small flock made its way through the trees.

The Retz’s helmetshrike has striking colouration. Its underparts are black except its rump which is white and its upper parts are brown. It has red legs, a red beak with a yellow tip and a frilled red eye wattle around its yellow eye.

On our walk along a narrow path in the Hans Merensky Nature Reserve we were looking up into the trees for birds when David happened so see some movement next to path on front of him and looked down. There was an African Rock python in ambush under a large tuft of grass at the edge of the path about a metre from us. It was coiled up ready to strike.

“We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.” ~ Anonymous

If David had not seen the python it would have been close enough to strike at one of us and deliver a nasty bite. With all drama avoided we were able to have a closer look at its stunning markings.

After a long very hot walk through the Hans Merensky Nature Reserve we returned to Tzaneen to look for Blue spotted wood doves which we saw in two of the suburbs in Tzaneen but I was not able to take a decent photograph of them. We also made our way to a small farm adjacent to the derelict Tzaneen railway station to look for Magpie mannikins but could not get close enough to get a good visual. While we were looking for the mannikins we saw a juvenile Crowned eagle perched in the gumtrees along the river course.

We heard the juvenile calling and I slowly walked across an open field to get closer. It watched me intently but did not allow me to get too close. I was really hoping to the adult Crowned eagle. It is a huge magnificently plumed eagle, affectionately nicknamed the flying leopard. Unfortunately I never got to see an adult.

I have long known that birding and photographing birds are very different endeavours. This birding trip reinforced that view. Both endeavours are driven by their passion and interest in birds. There is a massive difference between birding and bird photography defined by the equipment required, methodology and proximity, and the outcomes. The primary difference is that birding is an observational and data-driven activity focused on finding, identifying, and listing species, while bird photography is an artistic practice focused on capturing visual representations of a bird’s behaviour and form.

I have had a lifelong interest in birds but over the last 20 years have been passionately involved in bird photography where my goal has been to create a compelling, high-quality image. Success is measured by sharpness, lighting, framing, and capturing a dramatic or unique moment (like a bird in flight or feeding) rather than just checking a species off a list.

“To photograph is to hold one’s breath, when all faculties converge to capture fleeting reality. It’s at that precise moment that mastering an image becomes a great physical and intellectual joy.” ~Henri Cartier-Bresson

Bird photography focuses on capturing light and detail at a distance. Usually photographers use heavy telephoto or super-telephoto lenses, high-speed camera bodies, tripods, and memory cards to shoot in continuous burst modes. Photographers usually need to get much closer or stay stationary in a hide/blind for hours. Getting a clean, detailed portrait requires closing the physical gap, creating a higher ethical responsibility to avoid stressing the bird or damaging its habitat.

Obviously there are many commonalities between birding and bird photography. Both need to understand bird behaviour, understand which are migratory species, adhere to ethical respectful behaviour and mostly importantly recognise the bird calls. I have found that my interest and understanding about birds has grown significantly through my photography mainly because I see more detail, shape and colours when reviewing the photographs. The wonderful aspect about bird photography it that each photographer’s style and vision comes from what they look for, how they visually see, which is invariably different to anyone else’s.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Whether through a lens or through binoculars, appreciation starts with stillness and internal connection to nature rather than just gear.”~ Rachel Carson Council

Have fun, Mike

The Mara Triangle is my preferred area of the Masai Mara to visit mainly because of the controls the rangers put in play to manage the tourist density and behaviour. The Mara Conservancy has been managing the Mara Triangle for 25 years and have done an excellent job.

“Life is full of surprises and and serendipity. Being open to unexpected turns in the road is an important part of success. If you try to plan every step, you may miss those wonderful twists and turns. Just find your next adventure-do it well, enjoy it-and then, not now, think about what comes next.” ~ Condoleezza Rice

There are many benefits to visiting the Triangle late in October. Firstly, the tourist density is much reduced. The timing and size of wildebeest and zebra migration depends largely on the timing of the rains in the Mara and Serengeti. Some years there is plenty of wildlife in the Triangle at this time and other years most of the migrating mammals have already moved down into the Serengeti.

According to the Kenya National Bureau of Statistics’ Economic Survey 2026: Masai Mara visitor numbers fell from 419 829 in 2023 to 343 000 in 2024 — and then again to 213 300 in 2025. The Mara has lost roughly half its visitor base in two years. Meanwhile, Amboseli — which kept its fees substantially lower — saw visitor numbers rise from approximately 245 000 to 295 000 over the same period. For the first time in years, Amboseli drew more visitors than the Mara in 2025. The Masai Mara lifted its non resident tourist entrance fee during the peak July-December period from $80 per person per day to $200 per person per day. This hefty increase had a strong dilution effect on the tourist numbers.

The tourist numbers in the Mara Triangle have also been declining. The Mara Conservancy Archives show a total of 171 478 visitors in FY2023, the highest on record, including 94 901 non-resident adults. There were a total of 129 410 visitors, down 25% from FY2024, including 76 905 non-resident adults. In FY2026 to June 2026, 137 278 visitors entered the Triangle. The non resident visitor density varies considerably between low and peak season months due to the northern hemisphere holiday season from June to September. In February 2025, 4 937 non resident visitors entered the Mara Triangle. The numbers rose to 22 344 in July and 16 718 in August 2025 easing to 7 023 by October 2025. Source: Mara Conservancy.

“…there are no wrong turns, only unexpected paths.” ~ Mark Nepo

When most of the migratory mammals have moved south the predators have to work much harder to feed themselves and their families so, in my opinion, the predator photographic potential is higher. An additional benefit for wildlife photographers is that the grass is short on the plains at this time.

A major benefit for wildlife photographers was initiated in 2026 when the Mara Conservancy began enforcing controlled off-roading in the area along the border and in clearly designated areas in the southern section of the Triangle. Drivers are only be allowed off-road in this area if the vehicle has been fitted with a Masai Mara tracker, they are authorised and supervised by one of the Mara Conservancy’s anti-harassment teams and off-road vehicles are compelled to follow normal Park Rules on crowding and respecting wildlife sapce.

“The breeze at dawn has secrets to tell you. Don’t go back to sleep.” ~ Rumi

I have regularly stayed at Wild Eye’s Enkushui safari camp in the south of the Mara Triangle. The camp is located on the west bank of the Mara river just over a kilometre up river from the Purungat gate and bridge crossing. The camp’s location ensures that the camp residents are the first into the southern part of the Triangle at 6h00 and the last back to camp at 19h00.

“Rise free from care before the dawn, and seek adventures.” ~ Henry David Thoreau

When we start out on our morning game drive, it is usually just before the sun has risen over Outlook hill. There are often clouds lingering from the rains the evening before. These clouds provide texture and the sunrise colours set the sky alight presenting stunning colours.

There are two main options when leaving camp, either follow the Bottom River road north and this journey takes us past the crossing areas such as Peninsula, Fig tree, Maja Ma Chafu, Miti Moja as far as BBC. The alternative is that we drive west along Main road and travel south west on the Olare road which takes us onto the plains below the inselbergs along the Mara-Serengeti border. On occasion we see so much within a kilometre or two of the camp that we do not travel far at all.

The predators are usually moving around in the southern part of the Triangle in the early morning just after sunrise when the light is soft, ideal for our wildlife photography. There are usually lions on the west bank of the Mara river between Peninsula crossing and Miti Moja crossing. The Olare road is also very productive in terms of seeing lions and cheetah. Leopards can also be seen along the luggas ( natural drainage channels).

I took this image to show how the enormous size of this Nile crocodile. This is the Peninsula crossing point on the Mara river. I have seen one of these crocodiles with an adult zebra’s head in its jaws and it looked like a small foal’s head because of the massive size of the croc.

“A river doesn’t just carry water, it carries life.” ~ Amit Kalantri

Another benefit to visiting the Triangle outside the wildebeest migration, and before the short rains, is that there is a chance of seen unusual crossings such as a crossing of a breeding herd of elephants, a journey of giraffe and maybe even a male lion who has spotted his brothers or interesting females on the other side of the river.

The gradient of the Mara River as it flows through the Mara Triangle is very gentle, averaging roughly 0.5 to 1.5 meters per kilometre. With the gradient being so low, the water moves sluggishly and meanders in wide loops through the Triangle, creating deep pools and sediment-rich banks that are famous for the dramatic wildebeest river crossings. The Mara river has a flow rate that varies from 2 cubic metres per second (cumecs) in the dry season to average 42 cumecs across the year and peak in the rainy season at around 300cumecs. Compare that to the Zambezi river flow rate which peaks around 3 000cumecs in the peak during the rainy season.

“Rivers are places that renew our spirit, connect us with our past, and link us directly with the flow and rhythm of the natural world.” ~ Ted Turner

A large pride of lions can struggle to feed itself when most of the wildlife has migrated south into Serengeti. It is times like this that lions adapt to hunting warthog. Needless to say one or two warthogs will not go far among a large pride. If the male lions are around the pride gets very little of the warthog that the lionesses caught.

Hot air balloons usually take off between 6h00 and 6h30 and fly for about an hour. So any time you see an image with a hot air balloon in it you know it was more than likely taken between 6h30 and 7h30. The early morning air is cooler and the hot air balloon burner warms up the air inside the balloon creating the buoyancy.

“Life is a series of moments floating away like balloons in the sky.” ~ Unknown

I have always found it incongruent to see a Sausage tree standing alone in a vast area above the inselbergs in the southern section of the Mara Triangle. This is a favourite morning picnic site. When having breakfast you can be visited by buffalo, zebra and wildebeest.

In Swahili, the word ‘mara’ means ‘spotted land’. The grass plains are dotted with hundreds of Balanites. The Balanites aegyptiaca (desert date) is mostly seen in the plains of the Triangle. This species has long, straight green or yellow spines arranged in spirals.

In the open grassland plain along the southern border of the Mara Triangle with Serengeti below the ranges of inselbergs we often see lion, cheetah and elephants. Depending on the time of day, the skies can provide incredible backdrops for landscape images with elephants, balanites and inselbergs.

A typical scene of safari vehicle that had stopped for breakfast among the balanites. The image was taken looking west close to the Serengeti border with the Oloololo escarpment in the distance.

This an example of the vast vistas that your eyes can soar over. At times the grasslands are dotted with enormous numbers of wildlife. This can be combined in the afternoons with cumulus cloud buildup. The combinations can create wonderfully moody landscapes.

Having seen the large wildebeest Mara crossings before I prefer to visit the Mara Triangle at the end of the peak season in October just before the short rains when the tourist numbers have reduced substantially. The short rains usually last from November to December each year. This is a lighter and less disruptive rainy period than the long rains in March to May. It is characterised by warm temperatures and brief afternoon or evening showers that quickly clear up, reviving the savannah into lush green pastures.

“Every sunset brings the promise of a new dawn.”~ Ralph Waldo Emerson

The Mara Triangle is about 150 kilometres south of the equator so sunset typically occurs between 6:30 PM and 7:00 PM throughout the year. Dusk is quite short near the equator, but in October the cumulus cloud build up regularly create dramatic skies with oranges, yellows and apricot colours blazing through gaps in the clouds.

I hope these images have given you a sense of what I mean by big skies and vast vistas. I have been travelling back to the Mara Triangle for many years. Somehow the experience is always different. The variety of what you see always changes. The weather is different and I have never seen the same type of sightings in the same place other than at the Mara crossing points. Sometimes the tail end of the migration is late and you get to incredible crossings in October. Other times the migration moved on three to four weeks earlier but you many be lucky enough to see an elephant herd crossing or a journey of giraffe crossing the river. There are times when the really large Mara nile crocodiles come out of the water to warm themselves and you get to see just incredibly large these monsters can be.

“We live in a world which in some respects is mysterious; things can be experienced which remain inexplicable; not everything which happens can be anticipated. The unexpected and the incredible belong in this world. Only then is life whole. For me the world has from the beginning been infinite and ungraspable.” ~ Carl Jung

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

It was our first morning of our Mara Triangle October trip. The weather was cool and overcast, and it had been raining the night before. We decided to drive along the Bottom River road to try and find a lioness, known to have four cubs, along the Mara river near the Maji Ma Chafu crossing.

“A lion is born knowing how to hunt, but has to learn how to hunt well.” ~ Matshona Dhliwayo

On the way to Maji Ma Chafu we found two lionesses and three adolescent cubs lying in the road with a six-strong bachelor herd of “dagga boys”, old Cape buffalo bulls, clustering together in the grass near the road. Superficially, the scene looked like a stand-off. In reality, it was an opportunity for the adolescents to get some experience hunting buffalo.

This scene looked to be a classic training lesson for these young lions. One adolescent female took the lead. She crossed the road and began stalking the buffalo. This lioness was in plain sight and the “dagga boys”, the old buffalo bulls, had a good visual on her as she approached them. They allowed her to get reasonably close to them but she was badly outnumbered and outsized. No other adolescents came to help her. That level of cooperation, when hunting, still had to be learnt.

As soon as the adolescent got close enough, all six “dagga boys” turned to face her and began to chase her. She quickly realised she was on her own and decided withdrawal was a smart move, given the approaching wall of bosses.

“Knowledge is of no value unless you put it into practice.”~ Anton Chekhov

The “dagga boys” chased the adolescent lion just far enough to reassert a decent “fight or flight” gap. The buffalo did not know how many lions were lying hidden in the grass. A mature Cape buffalo can weigh up to 900 kilograms and wields lethal, sweeping horns capable of goring a lion. Buffalo are also known to have coordinated defense and will actively protect one another and will counter-attack to rescue a trapped member.

After one or two charges the buffalo must have judged that the single lion approach was just an ineffectual skirmish from one youngster and assessed that the lion pride consisted of two adults and three youngsters with all five lions being visible to the buffalo.

One of the adult lionesses kept a keen eye on her youngster while she was trying out her hunting skills. I am sure if the youngster had got herself into trouble, the two adult lionesses would have moved in very quickly to alter the asymmetric dynamics.

“Tell me and I forget, teach me and I may remember, involve me and I learn.” ~ Benjamin Franklin

The other cubs looked to be around one year old. You can the age of lion cubs by comparing their size, physical features, and coat patterns to an adult female. Newborn cubs have dark spots that fade as they grow, though faint marks can remain on their belly and legs. At around one year of age the cub reaches about half of the mother’s total shoulder height.

One of the lionesses did cross the road to check the buffalos’ advances. The adolescent quickly sought some attention and affirmation from the lioness by being allowed to rub herself against her mother.

A young blonde adolescent male also crossed the road to seek some attention from the lioness. He had no intention of trying anything with the onlooking six old “dagga boys” but seemed have ignored them completely. A mistake because they were still uncomfortably close.

The lioness was clearly unhappy with the young male’s disregard for the buffalo bulls proximity. When the young male tried to play with the lioness, she quickly put him in his place.

“He who cannot obey himself will be commanded. That is the nature of living creatures.” ~ Friedrich Nietzsche

The other larger lioness who was still on the other side of the road just watched the goings while the young male was being chastised. It was interesting that the lionesses were quiet other than the growl from the lioness who was chastising the young male.

Incredibly while the buffalo bulls were slowly walking away, the adolescents quickly began to play by chasing and tackling each other. The lesson was over, tension broken and it was play time.

It was fascinating to watch the hunting lesson and how each of the adolescents reacted to the opportunity to learn. Given the size and coordination of the six old buffalo bulls the hunt was never going to turn into anything serious for the “dagga boys”, old buffalo bulls. It could have been very serious for the adolescent female lion if the buffaloes had caught her. Then it would have been very interesting to see how the two adult lionesses would have reacted.

It can take a lion cub about two-and-a-half years to become a proficient hunter, but mastering dangerous, large prey like an adult Cape buffalo often requires three to four years of experience within the pride. Year old lions begin joining active hunts, though they often bungle attempts by revealing their position to the prey too early. It is only once they have regularly taken part in hunts that they develop basic killing skills, though complex teamwork needed for tackling large animals such as buffalo. Unlike hunting smaller or more solitary prey, bringing down a buffalo requires precise pride coordination—some lions isolate the target while others time their attacks on the rear or back of the animal. All of these tactics and skills are learnt.

The two lionesses and their adolescent cubs were probably part of a much larger pride. The lone lioness with her very young cubs not far away at Maji Ma Chafu crossing were also probably part of the larger pride. The very small cubs were likely hidden from adolescents because the latter would be too rough with their very small cousins. Over the next few days we saw one large male in the same area and he was probably the cubs’ father.

“Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” ~ Mahatma Gandhi

Lions are the most sociable member of the larger cat family. They live in prides normally up to 20 members, with up to three males, several adult females (one dominant), and a number of sub-adults and cubs. In the Serengeti, a few years earlier we came across a pride of 70 lions. They were not all together because it would have made hunting and feeding impossible. We assumed they were family sub-groups where a coalition of males dominated all the sub-families.

“Mastering others is strength. Mastering yourself is true power.” – Lao Tzu

Typically males may hold territory of between 20-400 square kms. within which may comprise several prides of females. In the Masai Mara, females do most of the hunting, helped by males when it comes to taking down large prey. The lions favour wildebeest and zebra, but outside of the annual ‘migration’, they have to adapt to taking on other prey, such as buffalo and warthogs.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

Most people go to the Mara Triangle to see mammals especially predators but in your travels looking for predators you will find there are birds everywhere. It can also be very productive just walking around the safari camp as there are many species of birds around the camp. I stayed in Wild Eye’s Enkushui safari camp which is located along the west bank of the Mara river in a large croton thicket. This post shows a small selection of the birds we saw while travelling around the Mara Triangle.

“Birds are the most popular group in the animal kingdom… And yet they inhabit a world which is really rather mysterious.” — David Attenborough

There are many Little bee-eaters along the banks of the Mara river. They use the overhanging branches of croton bushes to hawk insects.

Grey-headed kingfishers are regularly seen along the banks of the Mara river. This species of kingfisher is an insectivore. Other kingfisher that can be seen include the Malachite and Pied, which are both fish eaters as is the lesser seen Giant Kingfisher. I am told that there are Striped kingfishers along the Mara river but I have never seen one.

“Nature’s masterpiece in every feather. Where the whispers of nature meet the songs of the sky. A living canvas of vibrant hues.” ~ Unknown

A female and male Black-bellied bustard seen in the long grass close to the road. I have seen many more White-bellied bustards in the Triangle grasslands and the occasional Kori bustard. I am told the colourful Denham’s bustard can also be seen here but I have never seen one in the several trips I have had to the Masai Mara.

A female Northern Anteater chat perched on top of a rock protruding above the grasslands. The male of this species is black with white panels on its primary wing feathers. It looks very similar to a Sooty chat.

A Rufous-naped lark chirping away from an elevated patch of earth left over from the recent roadworks. This character puts on quite a display dancing and flapping from its perch with its crown feathers raised.

“There is an unreasonable joy to be had from the observation of small birds going about their bright, oblivious business”
~ Grant Hutchison

A Long crested eagle perched on a grassed earth mound. This species hunts mainly rodents but will go for birds and reptiles when available.

Sitting in a balanite not far off the Main road we found a lone Black chested snake-eagle. It was using the tree as a look point and had an excellent view of the surrounding area. We did not see it hunting and did not wait as they can spend hours just perched in the tree looking out. We also see Brown snake-eagles in the Triangle but I did not manage to photograph one this trip.

A female Wahlberg’s eagle incubating her eggs in a tree close to the bank of the Mara river. The nest comprises loose sticks locked together to provide a nesting platform with soft green leaves to soften the lining. This species usually breeds in southern Africa in the summer and is an inter-African migrant. Not all Wahlberg’s make the migratory journey because the climate offers even breeding conditions all year round.

“Where the whispers of nature meet the songs of the sky.”

At the Wild Eye Enkushui Safari camp a pair of White-browed robin-chats serenaded the guests every morning at around 5h30. This songster is immediately recognisable by its song and duet, and also by its bold white brow and rufous-orange underparts.

“Birds are, perhaps, the most eloquent expression of reality.” ~ Roger Tory Peterson

This pair were very active through the day making frequent appearances next to the media tent where photographers were downloading and editing their morning’s images.

There was also a pair of Slate-coloured boubous which were very busy foraging for insects around the main tents in the safari camp. They also have a distinctive duet.

“The art of patience, rewarded with wings.” ~ Unknown

Down at the south end where the Mara Triangle borders the Serengeti we usually find vultures mainly because of the continued movement of wildlife across the border and many lions and cheetahs in this open area. This was one of a pair of Lappet-faced vultures. This species plays a vital role in opening up a carcass if the lions and cheetahs have not already done so.

On our last morning drive on our way to the Serena airstrip for our flight back to Nairobi we saw an adult Martial eagle in the distance perched on an anthill and it was eating something. It looked to be eating either a guineafowl or a bustard but was disturbed and flew parallel to us passed a small breeding herd of elephants.

There have been over 470 bird species officially recorded in the Mara Triangle according to the Mara Conservancy Bird List. 

“Birds are the most accomplished aeronauts the world has ever seen. They fly high and low, at great speed, and very slowly. And always with extraordinary precision and control.” ~ David Attenborough

The short rains significantly affect bird movement in the Mara Triangle by triggering the arrival of thousands of Palearctic and Afro-tropical migratory birds such as Pallid harriers, Steppe eagles, European bee-eaters and many species of warblers. Falling between November and December, these brief afternoon showers transform the dry, dusty savannah into a lush green landscape. This sudden shift creates an abundance of food that serves as a primary catalyst for regional bird movement.

The start of the short rains coincides perfectly with the arrival of migratory birds fleeing the harsh winters of Europe and Northern Asia. These species travel thousands of miles to settle temporarily in the nutrient-rich grasses of the Mara Triangle.

“Through the lens, a world of feathers and flight unfolds.” ~ Unknown

The rain replenishes ephemeral ponds, marshlands, and small seasonal streams in the southern section of the Triangle. This moves storks, herons, and ibises away from the main Mara River banks out into the open plains

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

The predators you are almost guaranteed to see in the Mara Triangle are lions, big ones and many small ones. Visiting the Mara Triangle in October is purposeful because it is outside the main wildebeest migration period. The main reason we visit the Triangle at this time is that the tourist traffic is substantially less, the predators have to work harder for their food and so are more often seen during the day and there is a wonderful build up of cumulus and cumulonimbus clouds in the afternoons which provide dramatic backdrops and colourful skies.

“Intelligence is the ability to adapt to change.” ~ Stephen Hawkings

The broader Masai Mara National Reserve and its surrounding conservancies is home to a massive population of roughly 850 to 900 lions. The Mara Triangle itself is a distinct management area covering about 510 square kilometres. There are an estimated 80 to 95 lions living specifically within the Mara Triangle. Each pride occupies a defined territory, with males defending the area while females do most of the hunting and cub rearing. Seasonal events like the Great Migration provide abundant food, which helps sustain large, well established prides within the ecosystem. The exact number of active prides Mara Triangle varies depending on seasonal prey migration and male coalition takeovers.

“The lion’s courage is foraged in the crucible of adversity, and its roar is the anthem of triuymph over adversity.” ~ Rashida Rowe

The Triangle shares an open, unfenced border with Tanzania’s Serengeti National Park, so these numbers constantly fluctuate. When the Great Migration moves south to the Ndutu plains between January and March, resident lion prides in the Mara Triangle (and the greater northern Serengeti/Maasai Mara region) shift their focus to non-migratory resident game, primarily hunting African buffalo, topis, zebras, warthogs, and various resident antelopes. Lions are highly territorial and do not follow the migration outside their home ranges, so they must adapt to the seasonal absence of the massive wildebeest herds.

“Adapt or perish, now as ever, is nature’s inexorable imperative.” ~ H.G.Wells

We found a lone male lion feeding on a carcass in an open area of grassland next to the junction between the Main road and Olare road. It was not clear whether this male lion had made or stolen the kill. The carcass was obscured by the long grass so we could not tell whether it was a topi or wildebeest.

A pair of Black-backed jackals waited just out of striking distance of the male lion. At times they got surprisingly close and it just took a stare from the male lion to get the jackals to back off.

This looked to be a middle-aged lion about four to five years of age. He had dark freckles and spots on his nose and his face had few serious scars, both of which were hallmarks of a middle-aged male.

“When you are close to a male lion and he stares at you and does not roar, listen.” ~ Mike Haworth

We found this lioness close to the Mara river near Miti Moja crossing point. There were three lionesses and two of them had four cubs between them. There were two cubs around four months old and two were 10 to 12 months old. Judging from her teats this lioness was not lactating and her cubs had been weaned.

These two cubs belonged to the two lionesses we saw at Miti Moja. To accurately age a lion cub up to two years old, a combination of height relative to an adult female, eye colour, coat spots, and mane development is used. These visual cues are used because researchers and safari guides rarely know exact birth dates in the wild. The two older cubs in the images below were probably four and 10-12 months old.

“You are never too young to lead, and never too old to learn.” ~ Kofi Annan

When you are a massive male lion you can lie wherever you want. This male was lying close to a lugga with water in it and there was plenty of prey in the inselberg area.

On our first morning in the Mara Triangle we went looking for a lioness and her four cubs but found two leopards instead. The next day early in the morning we found a single lioness with her cubs. Their mother had hidden them in the crotons on the west bank of the Mara river at the Maji Machafu crossing area. It is well known that the mother leaves the pride to give birth in a safe, hidden den. The older cubs can be dangerously rough with the newborns.

Based on the height of the cubs and the colour of their eyes, I guessed they must have been two to three months old. The cubs were small enough to just fit under their mother’s belly and their eyes had transitioned from blue-green to amber-brown in colour.

“Nobody can dim the light that shines from within.” — Maya Angelou

A lioness typically gives birth to two to four cubs per litter, with two to three cubs being the most common number. Litters can rarely range from one up to six cubs. A lioness only has four teats so litters larger than four are very difficult to nurse.

Mothers bring their cubs back to the pride when they are four to eight weeks old when they are strong enough to cope with the rough and tumble from the older larger cubs. Lion cubs start eating meat at around three months old, and the weaning process is usually finished when they are between six and 10 months old.

In the wild, the survival rate of lion cubs below one year old is roughly 40% to 50%, meaning that 50% to 60% of cubs die before their first birthday. In harsher regions or periods of intense conflict, mortality can spike even higher, with up to 80% of cubs failing to reach two years of age. The relatively low survival rate is due to infanticide by new male lions, starvation, predation by leopards and hyaenas when the cubs are left alone while their mother has to hunt. They are also vulnerable to disease as young cubs lack fully developed immune systems, making them highly vulnerable to common parasites and viral infections.

On our second last morning we found the lone lioness walking back to Maji Machafu crossing area where she had hidden the cubs. It is possible that she joined the other two lionesses to hunt the night before but she had no signs of blood on her face or paws.

On our second last morning we were driving past Peninsula crossing point along the Bottom River road when our guide Kenneth saw a male lion lying in the open warming himself with the early morning sun. He was wide awake and alert. After watching for about ten minutes he got up and began to scent mark the croton bushes close by and then went to lie down again in the shade.

We were not sure but he suddenly got up crossed a lugga and walked with purpose toward the Maji Machafu crossing area. He must have heard a contact call which none of us in the vehicle heard.

It was interesting that, although he was aware of the two lionesses and cubs off to his right, he ignored them and walked to the bank of the Mara river then we lost sight of him in the croton thickets. He must have been one of the dominant males in that pride.

“Don’t let what you cannot do interfere with what you can do.” — John Wooden

On our last morning, we found the same male in a similar area but the other side of the Bottom River road. He was lying in the long grass about 300 metres from the road. Again something caught his attention and he got up and started walking back to the same area as the day before.

This male lion looked to be six to seven years old. We did not see his teeth but his face was heavily scarred and the skin around his jaw was starting to loosen. He had a full mane but it was not a heavy black mane though his body structure suggested he was still in prime physical condition.

“Youth is the gift of nature, but age is a work of art.” ~ Stanislaw Jerzy Lec

After watching the large male lion walk back towards Maji Machafu we left him in peace and decided to have one final search for the lone lioness and cubs at Maji MaChafu. We found the lioness lying in the morning sun with the cubs carefully tucked away in the croton thicket closeby. The hot air balloon in the background suggested that it was early in the morning. There was beautiful soft warm morning light on the lioness.

As a final goodbye on our way back to the Serena airstrip to fly back to Nairobi we found this male lion lying on top of an anthill, fast asleep in the middle of the day right next to the road.

We were fortunate to have had some wonderful lion sightings in the six days we travelled around the Mara Triangle from out Wild Eye Enkushui Safari camp base.

“Wild Eye – capture a look of untamed freedom, intensity, and creativeness lifted from ordinary rules.”

In the Mara Triangle, the lions are distributed across approximately 10 distinct prides. Between six and 10 primary, resident lion prides occupying territories completely or partially within the Mara Triangle at any given time.

“Families are the compass that guides us. They are the inspiration to reach great heights, and our comfort when we occasionally falter.” ~ Elizabeth Gilbert

The Triangle supports roughly 17 to 19 lions per 100 square kilometres. While the greater Masai Mara ecosystem boasts one of the highest lion populations in Africa, long-term wildlife monitoring data shows that the private conservancies bordering the north of main reserve have the highest density of lions. Scientific surveys published by the Mara Predator Conservation Programme and Researchers from Oxford University show the highest concentrations of free-roaming wild lions in Africa are found in the Ol Kinyei and the Olare Motorogi Conservancies. The higher lion density in the Masai Mara usually lowers the chance of seeing other predators such as leopards and cheetahs. The Mara Triangle offers a good balance of likely lion, leopard and cheetah sightings.

“The future belongs to those who believe in the beauty of their dreams.” ~ Eleanor Roosevelt

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

After our week in Amboseli long-time family friend Ann and I were fortunate enough to fly from Amboseli to the Mara Triangle where we landed at Serena airstrip. The flying time is about 45 minutes. The alternative is to drive from Amboseli back to Nairobi and then fly from Wilson Airport in Nairobi to Serena airstrip in the Mara Triangle. The flight directly from Amboseli saves at least six hours of travelling time.

“I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in order.” ~ John Burroughs

At the Serena airstrip we were met by the Wild Eye Enkushui team and we took a slow drive back to camp for lunch. The first sighting on our way to camp was a large male leopard lying comfortably in the canopy of a lone Balanite tree. He was watching all the movement of game in the grasslands around him. Looking at his belly he must have fed well the night before.

“The wilderness holds answers to more questions than we have yet learned to ask.” ~ Nancy Newhall

The Balanite tree also known as the desert date. This is an iconic, drought-resistant tree that dots the Masai Mara grasslands. It is often seen standing alone with a distinct umbrella-like or rounded silhouette against the open plain.

A welcome innovation in the Triangle is controlled off-roading in the Mara Triangle. Strict enforcement is in place, with Triangle rangers maintaining a visible presence and closely monitoring vehicle activity throughout the Conservancy. Off-road movement is permitted only for vehicles equipped with approved live tracking units and activity is limited to designated areas. 

Access is purposeful and limited: off-road driving is allowed exclusively for meaningful photographic or interpretative opportunities (such as sightings of cheetah, lion, or leopard), and never for convenience or general exploration. Off-road access remains highly controlled, with a maximum of five vehicles allowed at any one time within defined zones. Real-time monitoring technology is used to track vehicle movements, ensuring compliance and accountability for all operators. 

Wild Eye’s Enkushui Safari Camp is located in the Mara Triangle on the western bank of the Mara river about 1.5 kilometres up from the Purungat Bridge gate. This bridge is one of the most strategically important river crossing points in the Masai Mara ecosystem. It is located on the Mara River in the southern/southwestern Mara, and is very close to the Kenya–Tanzania border. It is the only vehicle crossing point linking the Mara Triangle side and the Greater Masai Mara side. The key advantage is that the camp’s location affords its guests first access to the high wildlife activity zone at first light. This significantly improves your chances of good lion, hyaena, serval and leopard sightings.

“Wildlife emerges when human disruption ceases.” ~ Unknown

On previous trips I had seen a beautiful young leopardess called Nashipai. I was hoping to get more photographs of her this trip. It was first light and we had driven down to Maji Machafu (meaning dirty water in Swahili) crossing area on the Mara river to look for a lioness and her very young cubs. Instead, we found a leopardess walking out of a croton thicket on the bank of the river. What was unusual was she was foaming at the mouth. This leopardess was not Nashipai.

We speculated that that she must have been foaming at the mouth due to either severe stress or having been in a fight. There was no sign that she had been in a fight. She had no sooner stepped out of the thicket when she bolted.

Less than a minute after the first leopardess had emerged from the crotons a second leopardess cautiously emerged.

“Choose your battles wisely. After all, life isn’t measured by how many times you stood up to fight. It’s not winning battles that makes you happy, but it’s how many times you turned away and chose to look into a better direction. Life is too short to spend it on warring. Fight only the most, most, most important ones, let the rest go.” ~ C. JoyBell C.

The emergence of the second leopard made us think this could have been a territorial altercation.

The second leopardess quickly followed the first probably to ensure she left her territory.

“The greatest value of a picture is when it forces us to notice what we never expected to see.”~John Tukey

One afternoon we decided to search around the Nvumba Nane hills. The scenery is spectacular and there is a pass through a section of these hills where a small tributary flows and feeds into the BBC lugga. At this point there are several large fig trees and one large sausage tree. With its large trees and steep hills this point is called Leopard Corner. We were lucky enough to find a leopardess lying on a large branch of one of the fig trees. She had torn ears probably incurred in territorial fights or hunting in thick thorny bush. This leopardess watched us until another two vehicles arrived. It got too busy for her and she climbed down the tree and disappeared through the long grass across the river and up the adjacent hillside into the thick bush.

On the second last of our six day trip to the Mara Triangle we left the camp at 6h00 after our cup of coffee and muffin. The camp is located in a croton thicket and is about a 700 metre drive to get to the Bottom River road. As we turned onto the Bottom River road there lying on a granite outcrop was a large male leopard. He looked to be asleep but as soon as he heard our vehicle he lifted his head. We asked the guide whether this was Shujaa, a massive male leopard we had seen the year before but this was a different male.

“…there are no wrong turns, only unexpected paths.” ~ Mark Nepo

The sun had not yet risen so the sky was illumed with soft pastel pinks, blues and mauves. This male leopard, now fully alert, was looking out from his rocky outcrop with the beautiful colours of the sky in the background creating a breath-taking scene.

He was a big male who looked like he had been in a few territorial tangles in the past judging from the scars on his face. Shujaa another massive male leopard we had seen in this area the year before had a considerably more scarred face and the skin around his eyes was damaged giving him a more devilish look. This was the same area we found Nashipai the previous year.

We spent about 15 minutes with this male before leaving him to rest in peace. It was interesting that he was resting out in the open on a granite outcrop at a time when the lions in the area were still active.

We were fortunate to have had three wonderful leopard sightings. Two of them were early in the morning just after 6h00 and we were the only vehicle in the area. This was because of the position of Wild Eye’s Enkushui Safari camp which always allowed us to be the first in the southern section of the Mara Triangle.

“If you do not expect the unexpected, you will not recognize it when it arrives.” ~ Heraclitus

Our best leopard sighting have been early in the morning before 7h00. That said last year we found Shujaa, the biggest male leopard I have ever seen, strolling through the open grasslands actively searching in the luggas for prey. He was the size of a fully grown lioness and powerfully built. He exuded an air of powerful confidence. The interesting part was that we found him in the open grasslands at around 9h30 so I can generalise about the best time to see leopards but mother nature always has something different to show us.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike