This the second post describing our Shompole trip with CNP Safaris. The initial attraction on this trip was the photographic hides that Shompole Wilderness offers in the Shompole Conservancy. There are two hides, the Plain’s hide and the more recently completed Kichaka hide. The last post showed mammal images taken from the Kichaka hide which sited in a more intimate surrounding focused on smaller wildlife. This post shows mammal images taken from the Plain’s hide which attracts a more diverse variety of wildlife from its large surrounding plain.

“The photo is the hunt, it’s the instinct of hunting without the desire to kill. It’s the hunt of angels. You trail, you aim, you fire and — click! — instead of a killing the subject you make it everlasting.” ~ Chris Marker

The Plain’s hide is purposefully set in a quite different environment to the Kichaka hide. The former is placed in an extensive open plain. The treeline is about 100 metres from the waterhole to the west and north, and a well-wooded area is 30 metres to south-west and south. This means that during the day you can see the wildlife approaching the hide’s waterhole from quite a distance. If the wildlife approaches from the west the Shompole mountain makes an imposing scenic backdrop in the distance.

“Wildlife photography is more than just taking pictures. It is about connecting with nature and understanding the beauty of the natural world.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

At night the wildlife visitations are frequent and the animals seem to drink more deeply. Perhaps this is because the animals are more habituated to the older Plain’s hide and perhaps the more open surround provides greater protection because a threat can be sensed further away. There was a remarkable variety of animals and birds that came to drink at the waterhole and they came from all directions because of the openness of the surrounds.

In the dry season, when the wind blows the Plain’s hide can be very dusty. This can be an advantage as it creates a moody background and it can be a disadvantage because your camera kit gets very dusty. At night the lights, especially the backlight, can generate wonderfully moody scenes when the wildlife comes into drink and kicks up dust which swirls carried by a gentle nightly breeze.

The hides are sunk low in the ground to ensure photographers are at eye level to the birds and animals drinking at the waterhole. The hide has windows in front facing the waterhole and windows on each side to watch wildlife approaching or leaving the waterhole. The windows remain open while the hide is occupied.

This leopardess approached the waterhole from the northern side emerging from the distant treeline. Not one of the four of us or the Maasai guide in the hide heard her approach nor could we hear her drinking.

It was clear that this leopardess was aware of something in the hide but it did not deter her. The lights at the back and sides of the hide shine onto the animals so they cannot easily see into the hide. Electric fans create white noise to muffle the sounds of photographers moving around. Fresh water is replenished daily and is pumped four kilometres from the Ewaso Ng’iro river. The wildlife clearly prefers the fresh water.

Every animal that came to drink at night was on high alert and reacted to sounds that emanated from the surrounds. Their sensitivity was understandable because they could be seen from afar in the light around the hide.

Most of the nocturnal mammals came to drink singly with the exception of lions and Spotted hyaenas. On several occasions a lone Civet came to drink at the hide’s waterhole. Civets require access to fresh water daily, so they are generally found in habitats close to permanent water sources. They are nocturnal animals that often drink during the night while foraging.

Wild civets, particularly the African civet, prefer areas with dense vegetation and consistent access to water. They often sleep in thickets near water sources during the day. As a result the civets we saw usually approached from the closest treed area south west of the hide. After a few Civet visits we knew from which direction to expect them to approach. Having settled down to drink this civet had an unexpected visitor which caused dorsal crest to rise signalling alarm.

The next images show the civet was alarmed by two buffalo bulls that walked straight up to the waterhole and started to drink. Interestingly, the different species were tolerant and not aggressive towards each other. With the two species, buffalo and civet, the size difference dictated that there was no competition.

“The photographer can’t create a picture, he only can compose.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

A giraffe bull was picked up in the penumbra. He just waited patiently for his turn to drink. Most of the time only a lone giraffe bull would come to the waterhole to drink.

I always find it fascinating to watch how mammals interact especially around a waterhole at night, given the heightened predator risk. Once the civet left the waterhole the buffalo bull moved around the waterhole making room for the giraffe bull to come and drink.

We did not see a breeding herd of elephants come to drink at either waterhole but one or two elephant bulls came to drink during the day and we saw only a single bull at night. Elephants have excellent night vision, often superior to their daytime sight. Being cathemeral animals – active at irregular intervals throughout both the day and night – their vision adapts to the differing lighting conditions. They use a Tapetum Lucidum—a reflective layer of tissue behind the retina—to see clearly in the dark, though their range is generally limited to not more than 25 metres.

At night, elephant’s eyes are most sensitive to blue and violet light, meaning their eyes are fairly well equipped for travel or activity during the darkest hours of the night (Source: GlobalElephants.org). Because vision is not their strongest sense, elephants heavily rely on their exceptional sense of smell and hearing for navigation and safety, especially in the dark.

Giraffe bulls usually visited the waterhole singly during the night. Giraffe have incredibly sensitive hearing. A giraffe 12 metres away can hear the rustle of photographers clothes when the latter move in the hide which often disturbs them while they are drinking. Scientific studies have found that giraffe hearing frequency ranges from 16 Hz to 18,000 Hz. They are particularly adept at detecting infrasounds (sounds below 20 Hz), allowing them to hear long-distance communication and potential threats from afar. Giraffes have 25 centimetre long, funnel-shaped ears that condense sounds effectively. In addition, they can swivel their ears in different directions to determine the direction of the source of the sound. While quiet during the day, giraffes have been recorded making low-frequency “hums” at night to keep in touch with their herd.

“Through the lens, I enter a dialogue with the wild. Nature reveals its purest essence.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

A pride of six lions , two adult females and four adolescents, came to drink at the waterhole at least twice a night. In the middle of the night the pride drank quickly then moved off. When the pride returned to drink just before dawn they stayed in the trees in the south west of the hide probably waiting to see what potential prey would come to drink at dawn.

“My lens bridges the gap between human and wild. It allows me to speak nature’s language.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

A wary but thirsty Debussa waterbuck bull came to the waterhole to drink in the middle of the night. The backlights caughts some of the dust stirred up by his arrival.

A Black-backed jackal illuminated in the hide’s lights just beyond the waterhole. Even the jackals were dead quiet when they approached the waterhole at night.

Once the sun began to rise a group of Plains zebra approached the hide’s waterhole from the west. The boys and girls seemed to have a lot to say to each other early in the morning.

“A little bit of waiting is necessary to get to the sights we hope for.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

One of the mares was trying to avoid too much attention from two of the young stallions.

The zebra arrival is just what the lions had been waiting for but on this occasion there were lions to be seen.

The same pride of six lions visited the waterhole on the second night. They again drink quickly and moved off into the night.

We had many nocturnal visits from a pair of Bat-eared foxes. I assumed the Bat-eared foxes remained close to the waterhole at night because of the plethora of insects. Bat-eared foxes are specialised insectivores and insects (mainly harvester termites) comprise 80–90% of their diet. The remaining part of their diet is just about anything else they can find — fruits, berries, seeds, lizards, eggs, rodents, grasshoppers, beetles, scorpions, crickets, and even some species of fungi.

A small group of Spotted hyaenas came to drink on several occasions. They remained alert and tentative in the light but were clearly thirsty. We were hoping to see the elusive Striped hyaena, but no luck. During the four nights that we alternated with the other group of photographers none of us saw the Striped hyaena. This is one species we will have to return to photograph.

At night when the lights were turned on to illuminate mammals as they came to drink at the hide’s waterhole we could see many bats. The lights attracted many species of insects. The bats, which are echo-locating insectivores, had a nightly feast. I presumed the surface of the water, being a good reflector, helped their echo-location of prey. I do not know what species of bats we saw but they were insectivores rather than fruit bats. The area is known to host species like the Egyptian free-tailed bat.

“In every moment nature is conspiring to expand my perceptions.” ~ Robbie George

We did not see nightjars during the night. Most nightjars rely on their large eyes to locate and capture moths and beetles when it is getting dark. Night-time conditions can prove challenging. So nightjars are most active just after dusk and just before dawn, when there is sufficient light. They only forage deep into the night when the sky is cloudless and the moon is bright.

The backlighting provides some wonderful photographic opportunities and the occasional buffalo bull posed beautifully for some unusual images.

A strip of backlights was sunk into the ground about 15 metres behind the edge of the water hole. The light created some fascinating images especially with the reflection on the mirror-like surface of the water when there is no wind. They were particularly effective with larger species like buffalo and giraffe.

Giraffe have a tendency to flick their heads once they have finished drinking water. The shower of water spilling out of their mouths creates some intriguing images, especially when back lit at night. The head flick is not just a quirky habit — it’s pure evolutionary engineering.

“Colour is descriptive. Black and white is interpretive.” ~ Elliott Erwitt

A giraffe’s neck contains a specialised valve system that protects its brain from sudden blood-pressure changes. When it lifts its head after drinking, that valve needs to reopen fast. The head flick helps “reset” the blood flow. The Rete Mirabele (“wonderful net”) in giraffes is a complex, specialised network of arteries and veins in the upper neck that acts as a vital blood pressure regulation system and prevents too great a backflow of blood to the brain and protects against sudden blood pressure changes when a giraffe lowers its head to drink or lifts it quickly. When bending down this mechanism reduces the pressure of the blood at the base of the brain to about 120/80 compared with the normal 260/160.

During our second night at the Plain’s hide the small pride of lions returned at dawn for another drink and to see what was on the the morning’s waterhole menu.

There was nothing of consequence for the lions on the morning menu except many Helmeted guineafowl so the lions chased the guineafowl around for a while then started to play with each other.

“Every sunrise is a masterpiece painted by nature, waiting to be captured” ~ Biju Karakkonam

A pair of Warthogs came to drink. Initially, the female was affectionate with the male but later there seemed to be a minor family warthog confrontation.

A Warthog boar cooling down in the heat of the late afternoon. Boars are often found alone. He was enjoying a little spar treatment from a small flock of Yellow-billed oxpeckers. The species of oxpecker is larger than its Red-billed cousin and its bill has a bright yellow base and red tip. It also has paler plumage on the back between its folded wings compared to its Red-billed cousin. Red-billed and Yellow-billed oxpeckers possess specialised beak morphologies which dictate distinct feeding behaviours and preferences, reducing direct competition allowing them to coexist. The Yellow-billed oxpecker has a thicker, broader, and stronger beak and so uses “plucking” and “hammering” techniques to remove larger parasites which are usually found on larger hosts such as buffalo and giraffes. This boar was getting special treatment.

Young Yellow baboons know to cling tightly to their mothers when their they come to the waterhole to drink. The action can start in a split second so a tight grip of the parent’s hair is vital. I cannot imagine how sore that must be for the mother.

Early in the morning the Yellow baboons descended from their arboreal bedrooms and came to the waterhole to drink. Baboons en mass were never quiet. There are always youngsters playing or adults chastising teenagers with lots of screaming and dashing around.

After two or three nights with minimal sleep in the hide the fear of missing out (FOMO) abated and the photographers would take in turns to sleep for an hour or two. The on-guard photographers would then quietly wake the sleepers if something interesting was approaching the waterhole.

“I am always looking for new ways to capture the beauty of the natural world. I want my photographs to inspire people to appreciate nature and take action to protect it.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

Once dawn arrived and the sun started to rise we were greeted by numerous birds coming to drink. They were accompanied by diurnal animals such as baboons, waterhog and zebra.

“Taking an image, freezing a moment, reveals how rich reality truly is.” ~ Anonymous

We usually stayed in the hide until around 10h00. After a 15 minute drive from the hide to the Ewaso Ni’gro river, we crossed the rapidly flowing river in an aluminium “tinny” and then walked back to camp along a sand path for a few hundred metres through a well-wooded section along the river bank to find a wonderful breakfast ready for us.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

Helen and I took the opportunity to visit Shompole in August 2025 with CNP Safaris. The Shompole Conservancy is a large privately operated conservation area in the south of the Great Rift Valley in Kenya. The Shompole Conservancy is nestled between the towering Nguruman & Loita Escarpments, with Lake Magadi to the north and Lake Natron to the south. Both are alkaline lakes which reveal a remarkable vista of red, pink, green and yellow colours.

“Let us step into the night and pursue that flighty temptress, adventure.” ~ Hunter S. Thompson

Shompole Conservancy is located between Maasai Mara National Reserve and Amboseli National Park. It is part of a vital migratory corridor between the two iconic reserves. The Conservancy connects the Loita Hills, Nguruman, and the greater southern Rift ecosystem. The Maasai tribe have pooled their land to ensure unrestricted grazing for their livestock and in the process created a vital migratory corridor which has immense conservation value for wildlife.

Shompole Wilderness Camp is situated on the banks of the Ewaso Ng’iro River, on Shompole Community Land in south western Kenya. The du Toit family (third generation Kenyan) and their local Maasai team manage the camp together. It is an intimate camp with just six tents. The Conservancy is home to over 400 bird species and a surprising diversity of iconic wildlife, including lions, leopards, cheetahs, elephants, giraffes, buffalo, zebra, waterbuck and yellow baboons. The night delivers nocturnally active creatures such as Spotted and Side striped hyaenas, Black-backed jackals, caracals, civets, honey badgers, White-tailed mongooses and wild cats.

The Conservancy has a dry climate. It is hottest in October and November and usually wet in April and May. The flora is adapted to semi-arid conditions so you can see umbrella thorn trees and colourful toothbrush trees. The main source of water is the Ewaso Ng’iro (Brown River) which originates in the Mau forest to the north and flows into Lake Natron. 

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do.” ~ Mark Twain

The Shompole Hides are some of the best ground level wildlife hides in sub Saharan Africa. The hides were conceived and built by Johann du Toit in conjunction with renowned wildlife photographer Will Burrard-Lucas. There are two hides, the Plains hide and Kichaka. The Plains Hide has a large open area surrounding the hide making it ideal for ground level wildlife photography where you can see wildlife approaching from a distance. The second and newest hide is called Kichaka. It is set in more bushy area with thick grass beyond its 30 metre perimeter. This dictates different wildlife behaviour.

“All good things are wild and free.” ~ Henry David Thoreau

The front windows of the hides are open directly onto the waterhole. Each hide can comfortably seat four photographers and a Maasai guide who controls the lights. Each hide had four sets of lights, a bank of lights behind the hide and a bank of lights either side of the hide and a sunken series of lights about 15 metres behind the waterhole for backlighting. The colour and intensity of the lights can also be controlled. The water hole in front of the hides was slightly wider than the hide and stretched about 12 metres in front of the hide. Its depth appeared to be about 25 to 30 cm. With the water lapping the edge of the hide, birds and animals would come within metres of the front of the hide. This created some up close and personal wildlife photography.

A giraffe bull approached the Kichaka hide early in the evening as the last light in the sky was fading creating a wonderful blue cast.

The giraffe were very wary because of the proximity of the grass and bush cover around the hide. Nevertheless after assessment of the safety they eventually bent down to drink.

The wonderful thing about the hides at night is that there is almost no sign that an animal is approaching the waterhole until the lights illuminate it. Each animal approaches very quietly and if you are distracted or snoozing you will miss the shot. This civet came to drink a few times during the evening. Each time it did not make a sound while drinking.

The animals are clearly aware of people inside the hide but electric fans create constant white noise which muffles the sound of people moving inside the hide. In addition, the back lights shine directly into their eyes so they cannot see people or movement inside the hide which is blacked out with no internal light.

“Great photography is about depth of feeling, not depth of field.” ~ Peter Adams

A waterbuck bull approached the waterhole and stood and watched and listened for about five minutes before deciding it was safe to come and drink. Kichaka is a new hide so the wildlife was still getting used to it. One of the features of night time hide wildlife photography was the stillness of the water in the waterhole which provided some wonderful reflections.

A small group of Spotted hyaenas hung around the hide on several occasions for about half an hour each time. This hyaena was highly visible so it was not hunting but just thirsty. It was sniffing the breeze for information, picking up on tiny chemical clues of potential food. In the bone structure of the nose of a hyena is a honeycomb structure about the size of a large marble. It is made of tiny thin platelets. Together they have a huge surface area. As the hyena sniffs air in, the air travels over those platelets, and over the huge number of odour detectors that can fit on their surfaces. The more detectors there are, the greater the chance that an odour molecule will come to rest on one. So the hyena can sift the breeze for information, pick up on tiny chemical clues and use that information to find dinner. (Source: UCL -Animals and their super senses. Dr. Helen Czerski)

I have tried on several occasions in Mashatu and even Zakouma to get good nocturnal shots of a White-tailed mongoose. On the first night at the Kichaka hide a lone White-tailed mongoose came on two occasions to drink from the waterhole in front of the hide and slated its thirst for a few minutes.

“Taking pictures is savouring life intensely, every hundredth of a second.” ~ Marc Riboud

We had several visits from Bat-eared foxes. They were on high alert and every time those radar-like ears picked up a sound they would step back and assess what it was and whether it was a threat.

Once in the hide we were there from 16h00 until 10h00 the next day. We were afforded our preferred drinks and the hide dinners were simplified to reduce noise and clutter. The hide had a toilet and three bunk beds for photographers to sleep. After a busy night and as it got light, a lone spotted hyaena visited the waterhole one last time for a drink and to see if there were any hunting opportunities.

Once it was light and the sun came up the birds came down to drink in large numbers. The morning ritual revealed squadrons of sandgrouse coming in to drink and load their belly feathers with water for their chicks tens of kilometres away.

“Photography takes an instant out of time, altering life by holding it still.” ~ Dorothea Lange

 Yellow-necked spurfowl regularly appeared from the grass surrounds to drink.

Namaqua doves were frequent visitors to the waterhole.

First thing in the morning once the sun began to light up the waterhole many Red-billed firefinches and Cut-throat finches came down to drink. Often they drank on the side of the waterhole only two to three metres from the front of the hide.

A pair of Black-faced sandgrouse also frequently visited the waterhole. They arrived around 8h30 in the morning.

Unlike the other species of sandgrouse the Black-faced sandgrouse would often sit quietly close to the water’s edge and just watch what was going on for five minutes before venturing down to drink.

Small flocks of Chestnut-bellied sandgrouse flying in to drink and fill their belly feathers with water for their chicks many kilometres away.

Plenty of African mourning doves came down to drink at the waterhole first thing in the morning. The grey head and red eye ring and yellow eyes are characteristic.

There is an interesting dynamic that develops in an overnight hide. The first night everyone stays awake for almost all of the night for the fear-of-missing out (FOMO). All the photographers have to be dead quiet as the animals can hear you. Giraffe will pick up the sound of your clothes rustling which will cause them to stand up and walk away from the waterhole to assess whether the noise signalled a threat.

“Photography helps people to see.” ~ Berenice Abbott

This was the first time I had spent overnight in a wildlife photographic hide. It is a unique experience and one in which you can photograph wildlife, especially nocturnally active wildlife, very close. On occasions bull elephants were 12 metres away and a pride of lions drank six metres from the front of the hide.

“Wildlife photography is more than just taking pictures. It is about connecting with nature and understanding the beauty of the natural world.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

The next two posts will show a variety of mammal and bird images taken from the Plain’s hide.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

This is the last post from our Pafuri trip in May 2025. Unfortunately the camp was affected by the recent heavy rains in the Kruger Park in January 2026 and it had to be closed. According to Return Africa, the Pafuri Camp will reopen on 1 June 2026, allowing sufficient time to complete repairs and ensure that all infrastructure is restored to their high standards. Return Africa’s CEO reported that as the waters of the Luvuvhu continue to recede and the floodplain is recovering. New growth is visible everywhere, reminding us that renewal is intrinsic to this landscape.

“Live quietly in the moment and see the beauty of all before you. The future will take care of itself.” ~ Paramahansa Yoganandar

The view that greeted us each morning around 6h00 after we had finished a cup of coffee and made our way to the game vehicle for our next adventure brimming with expectation.

“And I think to myself, what a wonderful world.“ ~ Louis Armstrong

The morning game drive and breakfast usually finished around 10h30-11h00 depending on what we had seen or encountered on the drive. Back at our tented room it was time to relax and download the morning’s images. There was always wildlife activity along and in the river during the day. On this occasion a lone old buffalo bull was slowly making his way up the section of the Luvuvhu river in front of the camp. We knew there were plenty of massive crocodiles in the river, we had seen them, but it did not seem to faze this ‘old bull’.

Having located something worth eating he eventually walked onto a sandbank, across a narrow channel of water and up the bank to start grazing on the other bank. These ‘old dagga boys’ usually move around with a few companions for protection but for some reason this character was on his own and seemed to stay close to the camp.

Each day, looking down the Luvuvhu river from camp we saw a herd of elephants drinking down at the bend in the river. Sometimes they crossed and sometimes they just played in the water for a while. Then just as quickly as they appeared the herd disappeared back into the bush to feed.

I am not sure whether it was always the same herd as the numbers varied from day to day but there were plenty of youngsters which is always a good sign.

“Spending money on travel is not an expense but an investment in experiences that yield joy, growth, and lasting memories.” ~ Anonymous

At night, if you are lucky, you may hear a Pels Fishing owl call from the huge trees on the far side bank of the Luvuvhu river but during the day you are assured to see the resident pairs of fish eagles. They often called from the large trees on the far bank. In my view, the Luvuvhu river provides an iconic African vista, which combined with fish eagles calling will send shivers down your spine.

Often we would see one of the pair of resident Fish eagles perched in a prominent position overlooking the river while the other member of the pair was climbing in a thermal very high above the river. They would often call to each other too.

Generally, the adult male Nile crocodile is between 3.5m and 5 m in length and weighs 225 to 750 kg. However, specimens exceeding 6.1 m in length and 1,000 kg in weight have been recorded. The largest accurately measured male, shot near Mwanza, Tanzania, measured 6.45 m and weighed about 1,043–1,089 kg. The largest living Nile crocodile seen is Gustave who lives on the Burundi shore section of Lake Tanganyika and is estimated to be around 6.1 m in length.

The Nile crocodiles, of which there were many, often climbed onto a sandbank to warm themselves. The croc in front was massive. During the first three to four years, the young increase in length by about 30 cm per year. The growth rate then gradually decreases, but growth can continue throughout life.

The Nile Crocodile can live up to between 40 – 60 years in the wild. The sex of crocodile hatchlings is determined by the temperature at which the eggs incubate. At 30^oC or less they will be mostly female; at 31^oC they will be mixed; and at 32^oC, they will be mostly male.

Some of the best reasons why it is not a good idea to try and wade across the water channels in the Luvuvhu river.

Nile monitors grow to about 100–140 cm (maximum 200 cm) in length (including tail); they have a stout body and powerful limbs and strong claws. Like all monitors they have a forked tongue. Their skin is tough and covered with small, bead-like scales.

This species of monitor prefers to lay its eggs in termite mounds, the female tears open the nest, particularly in the rainy season when the walls are soft, and deposits up to 60 eggs without attempting to cover them. The ants quickly seal up the nest. Under fairly constant temperature (around 25^oC ) and humidity, the unattended eggs are incubated over a period of 6 to 9 months before hatching. (Source: Science Direct.com).

According to SANBI, Nile monitors are carnivores with an almost insatiable appetite, they are renowned for eating just about anything they can overpower or find as carrion. Consequently, their diet includes everything from arthropods, amphibians and fish, to birds, small mammals and other reptiles. Hunting strategies vary, but it is rare for the Nile monitor to shy away from a challenge.

At around 6h00 one morning while having coffee just before going out on a morning game drive some guests came running to tell us that a Pel Fishing owl was perched in full view on a low branch overhanging the river on the opposite side of the river to their tent.

“We do not know the true value of our moments until they have undergone the test of memory.” ~ Georges Duhamel

I have seen Pels Fishing owls each time I have been to Pafuri but never seen them in full view like this. It was at least 100 metres away but wonderful to see it in the open. This is the second largest owl species in southern Africa. Its ginger-rufous plumage and large round head make it instantly recognisable. It lives near rivers and lakes, and feeds nocturnally on fish and frogs foraged from the surface of lakes and rivers. The species prefers to roost in and hunt from large trees with branches overhanging trees a slow-moving river.

Back in camp after a productive afternoon’s game drive we would have a drink on the deck overlooking the Luvuvhu river to enjoy the beauty of the last rays of sunlight over the riverine scene. This image was taken looking west up the Luvuvhu river towards the sun just after it had dipped below the horizon.

“Life is short. Kiss slowly, laugh insanely, love truly and forgive quickly.” ~ Paulo Coelho

One evening after the day faded and darkness fell and we had finished our drinks on the deck and were just on our way to dinner, the staff called us to come over and see a pair of Thick-tailed bushbabies in the tree above the buffet area. They seemed quite relaxed and not perturbed by the human activity below them.

After dinner we usually stopped next to the fire for a cup of coffee to listen to all the night sounds. Lions roaring in the south in Kruger Park, hyaenas whopping and Wood owls in the trees among the tents. If you are lucky you might even hear a Pels Fishing owl calling from the far side river bank. There was the occasional jackal yelping, cackling and barking, and baboons creating a raucous as they were settling into arboreal bedrooms for the night.

“Our lives are composed of a finite set of moments that we choose how to spend.” ~ John Green

Pafuri Tented Camp is one of our favourite places to stay in South Africa. The camp, being located on the banks of the Luvuvhu river, offers wonderful views of the river and the massive trees that line its banks during the daylight hours. The camp is very comfortable and the staff friendly and hospitable. The two game drives a day, in the morning and afternoon, provide iconic scenes all the Luvuvhu and Limpopo rivers, baobabs, diverse ecosystems and the birding is excellent. It does not offer the big five but we have long ago moved beyond that marketing catch phrase. This is considered one of the three top birding locations in South Africa.

“Cherish your visions and your dreams, as they are the children of your soul; the blueprints of your ultimate achievements.” ~ Napoleon Hill

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

We spent three mornings at Reedbuck Pan in the Maluleke Concession in the Pafuri section in the north of the Kruger Park. Each morning provided unexpected opportunities for different types of wildlife photographs from great bird interactions to wonderful saturated colours across the pan to dazzling reflections on the pan’s water surface.

“The vibration of being who you are and doing what you love is magnetic. You will align everything you need in your life with that energy.” ~ Maryam Hasnaa

As is normally the case on South African game drives, the morning drive has an early start preferably heading out at first light after a cup of hot coffee and a rusk. On the east side of the Pafuri Tented Camp is a rocky ridge with a few baobab trees. They make a wonderful silhouette with the saturated pre-dawn sky in the background.

It takes about an hour to drive east from the camp to the Reeduck Pan. By the time we arrived the sun had risen but the low angle of light cast long reflections of the fever trees across the mirror-like water surface of the pan. Early in the morning the quality of the light is superb. The direction of the light was just right, the colour of the light saturated with the sparkle from the early morning golden colours and light was soft with no specular harshness.

The pan by its nature is shallow and the banks relatively flat which gives plenty of room for waders to wander along the waterline. It also gives us ample opportunity to see crocodiles trying to sneak up on us while we are distracted taking photographs.

The intriguing aspect about this pan is that there is so much birdlife it is hard to focus on one thing. On the bend in the bank closest to where we stopped for coffee there was a Goliath heron, Grey heron, Yellow-billed stork and Three-banded plover all close to each other and quite relaxed.

“You didn’t come into this world. You came out of it, like a wave on the ocean.” ~ Alan Watts

As I showed in two previous posts, a pair of African fish eagles were aggressively territorial taking on a lone Goliath heron and solitary Great white pelican. The attacks were just intimidation and no one got injured.

I found it quite amazing that the Fish eagle would take on a large bird like a Great white pelican especially with its long beak and extended reach. The Fish eagles harassed herons, storks and pelicans alike.

“Do you have the patience to wait until the mud settles and the water is clear?” ~ Lao Tzu

A quiet moment for the lone Goliath heron the far side of the pan. This heron wisely decided to hunt close to fallen tree trunks which he could duck to avert a Fish eagle attack. Whilst I am sure the crocs do try to catch the herons, on this occasion a small croc was content to warm up in the morning sun on the fallen tree trunk.

There were plenty of Nile crocodiles in the pan and at times we got see a few basking in the morning sun on the far side of the pan. This was a good reminder to be alert and not get to close to the water’s edge.

Surprisingly, we saw a medium size croc try to bite into a terrapin but with little luck. Eventually, the croc dropped the terrapin into the water after trying numerous times to bite and try and crack its shell. The terrapin seemed none the worse for wear after its abuse.

We were joined one morning, while we were enjoying a cup of coffee and a muffin, by this juvenile Kittlitz’s plover which was hunting for insects at the water’s edge.

The adult Kittlitz’s plover in breeding colours has a more distinctive plumage with a peach coloured breast black band across its forehead down behind its eyes onto its nape.

We saw numerous Three-banded plovers dashing along the water’s edge hunting for small insects. Its two black bands across its breast are diagnostic as are its red eye rings and red beak with a black tip. It was a little more difficult to get good reflections of these small plovers.

A Blacksmith lapwing was also very busy looking for food. This species will feed on a wide variety of small aquatic and terrestrial invertebrates, including insects (beetles, ants, larvae), worms, molluscs, and crustaceans.

“Water is the mirror of nature.” ~ Francis of Assisi

The main reason for this post was to show familiar waders in unfamiliar light and colour created by the light reflected off the fever trees.

Although the reflections do create an element of distraction, the colours and in the patterns in the water were fascinating. This Grey heron stood motionless in the shallow water of the pan for quite a while. It must have seen a fish and waited for it to swim within striking range.

The crocs showed no appetite for the herons in the pan. At this point the croc was in very shallow water so could not submerge for a stealthy attack. The only time I have seen crocodiles try to catch water birds was in the Salamat river in Zakouma National Park in Chad.

There was plenty of food in the pan for everyone which is why there were colonies of breeding herons and storks in the fever trees in the pan. The pink tinge in the Yellow-billed stork’s secondaries indicated that it was in full breeding plumage.

“No one can see their reflection in running water. It is only in still water that we can see.” ~ Taoist Proverb

A small flock of African spoonbills flew in to scour the pan for food. They frantically swept their unusual spoonbills through the water trying to catch edibles such as small fish, crustaceans (like shrimp), mollusks, aquatic insects, larvae, and frogs.

“Forget not that the earth delights to feel your bare feet and the winds long to play with your hair.” ~ Khalil Gibran

The inside of the spoon-shaped bill is packed with nerve endings and vibration-sensitive receptors, often referred to as papillae. Instead of relying on sight, spoonbills locate prey by touch. They sweep their partially opened bills from side to side through shallow water and mud to detect movement. When a Spoonbill feels a creature—such as a small fish, crustacean, or insect—touch its bill, the beak snaps shut in milliseconds. This extreme sensitivity allows them to feed effectively in murky, dark, or deep, muddy water where visibility is low.

One of the pair of African fish eagles that seemed to delight in harassing waders in the shallows of the pan. The Fish eagle’s tactics did not deter the waders, the latter just moved to another area of the pan.

Another example of a familiar wader in unfamiliar light. A Little egret foraging in the shallows of the pan bathed in a kaleidoscope of soft reflected colours.

A silhouette of a Little egret foraging in the golden morning light reflected on the water’s surface.

Same subject with a different angle and different light.

The colours reflected on the water’s surface of the pan changed the familiar into a magical wonderland of colour.

“Come forth into the light of things, let nature be your teacher.” ~ William Wordsworth

This post was designed to show similar wader birds in unusual early morning reflected light. Such is the magical time based quality of photography. The quality of light, the low angle and reflections are ever changing. The stillness of the water enhanced the quality of the reflections and the vivid colours of the fever trees in the background illuminated the reflections.

“We carry inside us the wonders we seek outside us.” ~ Rumi

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

Helen and I stayed at Pafuri tented camp last May. Thankfully not during the recent devastating floods in Kruger, and in the Pafuri area. The Pafuri section is the biodiverse northernmost part of Kruger National Park. It is well known for famous for its diverse landscapes (fever tree forests, riverine habitats), exceptional birdwatching (Pel’s Fishing Owl and Racket-tailed rollers), and the confluence of the Limpopo & Luvuvhu rivers at Crook’s Corner, where three countries (South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique) meet.

“I have always been delighted at the prospect of a new day, a fresh try, one more start, with perhaps a bit of magic waiting somewhere behind the morning.” ~ J. B. Priestley

We enjoyed morning and afternoon game drives. One morning game drive took us to Reedbuck pan in the Maluleke Concession. This is a stunningly beautiful pan situated at the edge of a large fever tree forest. The pan is usually filled by a combination of rainwater runoff and back flow from the Luvuvhu river which meets the Limpopo river at Crook’s corner. When the level of the Limpopo river rises the higher water levels cause a back flow up the Luvuvhu river. The back flow, at times, extends and floods the fever tree forest and surrounding area including the pans.

The pans are a magnet for bird life especially water birds such as storks, herons, egrets, lapwings, plovers and ducks and a pair of African fish eagles.

On the first morning we arrived at the pan it was around 7h00 and was bathed in golden morning light from the east which resulted in vivid reflections in the still water of the pan. There was a lot of activity with heronries in the trees and egrets, herons and storks flying back and forth with food for chicks and building material for new nests. Amongst all the aerial activity, we found a solitary Goliath heron stealthily walking in the shallow water of the pan.

We had seen a pair of fish eagles in the fever trees but they quietly perched high up in the tree watching the goings on. All of sudden from behind us one fish eagle swooped down close to the water aiming directly at the Goliath heron.

African Fish Eagles are known to frequently steal food from Goliath Herons in behaviour known as kleptoparasitism. Fish Eagles are opportunistic predators that often wait for the much larger Goliath Heron to catch a large fish (such as catfish or lungfish), then swoop down to harass the heron into dropping or regurgitating its meal.

While Goliath herons are the world’s largest, standing up to 5 feet tall, they are often forced to surrender a percentage of their catch to faster, aggressive raptors.

In this instance, the Goliath heron did not have a fish in its beak so this attack was not kleptoparasitism but rather a territorial imperative where the Fish eagles did not want competition for their main food source, being the fish in the pan.

“Nature is full for us of seeing inconsistencies and glad surprises” Margaret Barker

Not done with its intimidation tactics, the Fish eagle did a low level swoop to try again. Although these eagles are persistent, they do not always succeed. Goliath herons are known to fight back, and in some instances, have successfully defended their catch. The Goliath heron has a serious weapon in the form of its large sharp beak which its uses as an effective spear. The Goliath heron did not fight back but moved closer to a group of partly submerged branches from a fallen tree.

The Goliath heron ducked its head and body into the water between the fallen branches. That way the Fish eagle could not get its talons close enough to do any damage.

Studies indicate that Goliath herons lose roughly 11% of their fish catches to these “fish-pirates”. We visited this pan every day for the next two days because of all the bird activity. The Fish eagle pair did not succeed in chasing the Goliath heron away from the pan. Needless to say, the Goliath heron chose its fishing spots more carefully where it had more protection than the open water.

The pan turned out to be action packed. The Fish eagle pair flew around the pan intimidating the Yellow-billed storks and Grey and Black-headed herons as they were flying to and from their nests to the area surrounding the pan. At times it looked like the Fish eagles were having great fun.

“Animals are part of every landscape, part of the symphony of interactions that create an ecosystem, but too much of our science is siloed into looking at all these living things in isolation from each other.” ~ Kristin Ohlsen

The last morning we visited Reedbuck pan we saw a Great White pelican on the far side of the pan. We did not see it fly into the pan which can usually provide spectacular shots as they land by skiing across the water on their large webbed feet to land on the water and so sufficiently to land on their bellies and tuck their wings in. We were surprised to see a lone Great White pelican as they are often seen in small flocks as they are co-operative feeders. Great White pelicans are highly social, cooperative feeders which frequently fish in groups, using coordinated, team-based strategies to maximize their prey catch, particularly in shallow waters. 

The Fish eagle pair took turns to intimidate this Great White pelican. The size difference was noticeable but the Fish eagle’s lesser size was amply made up for by its aggression.

A Great White pelican is a large water bird, standing  up to 180cm and it has a wingspan of 226cm to 360cm and can weigh up to 15kgs, making it one of the world’s largest flying birds. It is also clearly distinguished by its long beak with a large, pale gular pouch. Males are generally larger and heavier than females, with a beak up to 47 cm long. 

“Nature’s imagination far exceeds humanity’s.” ~ Richard Feynman

The Fish eagle’s attacked from above swooping down on the hapless pelican which made itself look bigger by opening its wings and its large beak.

Fish eagles are known to attack Great White pelicans for the purposes of kleptoparasitism not predation. The pelican usually catches larger fish which makes the attack more cost effective for the Fish eagle.

The Fish eagle aimed to grab the pelican’s beak with one of its talons and managed to briefly hold onto the end of the pelican’s beak.

It was interesting so see how much the pelican’s beak bent under the weight of the fish eagle’s attack. No damage appeared to have been done during the attack.

Like the Goliath heron, the Great White pelican remained at the pan. The Fish eagle’s intimidation tactics did not work.

There were plenty of crocodiles in the pan and with all the waterbirds attracted to the pan we assumed there must have been good fishing for all the reptiles and birds involved. The fever trees provided some wonderful perches from which to look for fish and stage attacks on unwary pelicans and herons, especially those with fish in their beaks.

The Pafuri area in Kruger National Park was significantly affected by the January 2026 flooding, leading to the closure of the Pafuri Gate, road closures due to submerged bridges and overflowing rivers (especially the Luvuvhu), and precautionary evacuations of camps like Pafuri Camp. Reports suggest areas further south experienced even greater damage, with the floods inundating floodplains and cutting off access. 

“We inhabit a water planet, and unless we protect, manage, and restore that resource, the future will be a very different place from the one we imagine today.” ~ Alexandra Cousteau

Reedbuck pan was highly productive from a birding and bird photography point of view. The recent devastating rains and flooding in the Limpopo and Pafuri area have destroyed many of the roads but once the water levels subside I have no doubt the birding and photograph around this pan will be even better than before.

“To find the universal elements enough; to find the air and the water exhilarating; to be refreshed by a morning walk or an evening saunter… to be thrilled by the stars at night; to be elated over a bird’s nest or a wildflower in spring — these are some of the rewards of the simple life.” ~ John Burroughs

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

After a long break I am looking forward to getting back to sharing my wildlife experiences and knowledge I have gained along the way.

When visiting Kruger Park, Helen and I usually stay at either Sabi River Sun resort near Hazyview or Pine Lake resort just outside White river in Mpumalanga. The quickest access in the Kruger Park from the Sabi River Sun resort is via the Phabeni gate. This post shows some of the birds we saw on our rain soaked drive along the S1 from Phabeni gate to Skukuza camp.

“Expectations imprison the soul, break free and witness the extraordinary unfold in the simplicity of the present.” ~ anonymous

Quite by chance as we were driving along in light rain we saw a Green pigeon fly into a bush ahead of us next to the road. We stopped and to our amazement there was a small flock of Green pigeons feeding on berries on that bush. These pigeons prefer riparian forests, woodlands, and savannas.

All pigeons have beautiful coloured plumage but the Green pigeon especially so. They have bright orange/red legs and feet; their thighs are covered with vibrant yellow feathers; the bottom part of their body and the head and neck area are greyish green in colour; the back and tail has a more olive green to yellowish green colour; and finally, you will see their white eyes and their bright red and white beak. This species of pigeon feed on fruits, berries and figs. They are particularly acrobatic when feeding and clambour around the branches like parrots to access the fruit and berries.

A little further along the tarred road we came across a somewhat bedraggled adult Tawny eagle perched on top of a dead tree stump. It was keenly surveying the surrounding area for food. It’s crop was not extended so it was probably hungry after not being able to hunt during the rain.

The Tawny eagle is a medium sized eagle but its plumage is highly variable. Its plumage can vary from dark brown, mid-brown, a creamy rufous to almost white. It has a yellow lined gape which stops below the centre of the eye, which is diagnostic. This species of eagle has a highly varied diet which ranges from small mammals (rodents, hares and very young antelope), birds such as francolins and hornbills. It will happily feed on a termite emergence but is also an adept scavenger at predator kills and road kill.

“Rainy days can bring surprises and in the bush it never dampens our spirit.” ~ Mike Haworth

We encountered a lot of rain in the early part of the drive. I always try to get into the park at opening times to get the best light but on this occasion it was overcast and drizzling. Unless it is a downpour the birds are still out and about in the light rain. The birds just have to cope with it. This African Long -tailed shrike retracted its neck and lowered its head onto it shoulders to reduce the rain ingress on its neck. Due to its black and white coloured plumage it is also called the Magpie shrike.

This species prefers the open savanna where it can hunt from a perch. You can often find this species in a gregarious group calling to each other. Most prey is caught on the ground, but flying insects are sometimes caught in mid air. The diet consists of arthropods, insects, lizards, small mammals and fruit.

Being mid summer in southern Africa, the migrants had come down for the warmer climes and greater abundance of food. This European roller was perched on top of the remains of a dead shrub. This species is also a perch hunter so prefers the bushveld, woodlands and grasslands with scattered trees in the warmer lowland areas where there are plenty of insects, small reptiles and frogs on which to feed.

Like all the rollers this species is strikingly coloured and immediately recognisable in the bush. Its body and underwings are a powder blue with a wide edge to its primaries and secondaries which is an electric blue. It has an orange-brown rufous back and an electric blue rump. Birdlife South African using pioneering satellite technology has shown this species can fly along the east coast of Africa from South Africa to middle Asia in a migratory journey of over 12 000 kms one way.

“When rain speaks, it tells stories only quiet hearts can hear.” ~ anonymous

After the rain many birds perched in the warmth when the blue sky was starting to break through the clouds. Although slightly smaller than the Mosque swallow, this Red-breasted swallow was perched on a flimsy stick and needed to balance itself in the light breeze. It has brick red underparts and dark blue upper parts. This species is also a summer visitor which has migrated south for the abundance of insects.

This species of swallow breeds in southern Africa constructing a closed mud nesting chamber with a long tubular mud tunnel. It prefers the open woodland areas where it can hawk insects in flight.

Another bedraggled raptor due to the rain. This is a white morph Wahlberg’s eagle. Like Tawny’s, the Wahlberg’s plumage can be highly variable from the common brown plumage to a dark brown morph and also a pale morph where its head and neck is mainly creamy white with blackish streaks on the crown and around the eye. This eagle is also a summer visitor from North Africa to feed and breed. The mating pair of Wahlberg’s eagle will hunt together cooperatively.

“Rain conjures possibility, unlocking doors patience alone could not open.” ~ anonymous

This is a small eagle with a distinctive crest at the back of its small head It has a small beak with a large gape. Its relatively small beak size is suited to its diet which is mainly reptiles such as snakes and lizards, small mammals like squirrels, mongooses and hares, and small birds. It will also feed on insects such as termites, grasshoppers and beetles.

I have thousands of Lilac-breasted roller shots but cannot resist taking photographs of these gorgeous rollers in the bush. This particular roller had caught an insect and was clambering up a dead tree stump to its mate.

The pair of Lilac breasted rollers perched on to top of the dead tree trunk for quite a while. Since this species is not sexually dimorphic, it was difficult to tell the male and female apart. I assumed from the behaviour of the lower partner offering the insect to the higher partner that he was a male. For some reason when the (supposed) female bent down to take the offering the male would not give it to her. He eventually ate it, flew off and caught another insect which he proceeded to feed on himself.

” Sharing strengthens bonds. For humanity it is the root of civilisation.” ~ Mike Haworth

This particular journey was filled with migrants. As we were driving back from Skukuza toward Pretoriuskop there is a open grassland area with numerous dry small bush stumps. We saw three Jacobin cuckoos in this area. The Jacobin cuckoo can be identified by its black upper parts and white underparts and the small somewhat scraggy crest on the back of its head. The Striped cuckoo looks similar but has dark stripes on its white breast

Jacobin cuckoos prefer savanna and woodland habitats where they can find plentiful caterpillars. Like most cuckoos this species is a brood parasite primarily targeting bulbuls (like Cape, Red-eyed, and Dark-capped Bulbuls) and shrikes (like the Common Fiscal) in southern Africa.

On our way on the S3 gravel road from Pretoriuskop to Phabeni, we stopped when we heard a distinctive cuckoo call. It is very difficult to tell the difference between an African and Common Cuckoo. Two factors made me think it was an African cuckoo. The first was that distinctive cuckoo call (but not as distinctive as the Common Cuckoo) and the second was the large orange yellow base to its beak.

This was a first for me as they are usually so hard to see and more often only heard. This individual flew from its open perch to a well wooded branch where it was much better camouflaged. It remained dead still for ages, so needless to say I took many images mostly in the same position. The African cuckoo brood parasites a wide variety of small birds, with common hosts including weavers, bishops, warblers, sparrows, sunbirds, and robins.

We did not get to see many mammals due to the rain and thick lush vegetation but the birdlife was certainly on show. For many of the cars following us along the road, when we stopped to view and photograph a bird, passersby would ask us what we were looking at, when we said we were looking at a bird, most cars quickly moved off as many tourists seem to want to see the big mammals, not these interesting birds.

“Often the best way to find birds in the bush is to listen. The ears can often locate better than the eyes.” ~ Mike Haworth

Listening for birds can be as important as seeing them. Often, once you hear a bird you can usually pinpoint its location and with a little searching you can see it.

“One who listens learns, and one who learns listens.” ~ Matshona Dhliwayo

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

When entering the Kruger Park through the Phabeni or Numbi gates we usually stop in at the Pretoriuskop rest camp for fuel and to wander around with a camera. We have found the birding to be highly productive in this rest camp.

Often some of the best sightings are on the lawn next to the rest camp reception. Across the drive in front of the reception is a lawn with trees behind the fuel station.

“You must give everything to make your life as beautiful as the dreams that dance in your imagination.” ~ Roman Payne

A juvenile Southern black flycatcher landed on the lawn in front of me to grab an insect it had seen. This juvenile still had its fawn coloured spots on its head and neck and a few of its coverts. When fully mature this flycatcher will be entirely black.

While Helen was making a cup of coffee I strolled across the driveway onto the lawn in front of the reception only to see a female Violet-backed starling foraging for insects in the grass.

This was an exciting find because the female is usually paired with the male. While the female has striking plumage the male has exquisite amethyst or iridescent purple upper parts which includes his chin, throat and wings. He has a black throat band and his beast and belly are white. As hard as I tried I could not see the male.

While wandering around the same section of lawn I heard the distinct sound of a woodpecker hammering at a wooden branch. After a bit of scouting I found this female Cardinal woodpecker digging earnestly among the lichen on a branch high up in a tree.

A female Cardinal Woodpecker has white underparts which are heavily streaked. She has a white face and black crown, forehead and nape. Unlike the male’s red hind crown and nape, the female has a fully dark top of her head. This female seemed unperturbed by the presence of a Woodland kingfisher. In recent years we have seen a pair of Woodland kingfishers nesting in a hole in the trunk of a figtree opposite the reception office.

By now we were enjoying a cup of coffee and a hot cross bun and sitting on the benches in the lawn adjacent to the reception. By sitting quietly we saw a wonderful select of birds. One visitor was a Southern black tit in a tree above the reception office. This species of tit is all black except for its white shoulders, white edgings to the wing feathers, and a barred gray-and-white undertail. Ebird accurately indicates this species is often detected by its noisy buzzing and chirping vocalizations, including a sweet-and-scratchy “diddy-dzee-dzee-dzee-dzee-dzee.”

“When I sit quietly I hear nature’s symphony. Then a single bird’s song stands out calling for attention. That is when you know what to look for.” ~ Mike Haworth

As the bird sighting were getting better and better, a chattering family of Retz’s helmet-shrikes arrived and noisily darted in and out of the trees above us. This species of helmet-shrike is often seen in this area and it has a distinctive black plumage with a red-orange eye wattle and yellow eye. Its beak and legs are a bright red colour.

The Retz’s helmet-shrike has white under tail coverts and its under tail feathers are white. When not in breeding season the gregarious helmet-shrike groups can become much larger than five or six members and the group sometimes includes White helmet-shrikes.

Just when we thought it could not get better a male Bearded woodpecker arrived in the tree in front of us. He gave us a sustained display while energetically searching for grubs in holes in tree branches and grubs under the bark.

The male Bearded woodpecker has a black forehead with white spots and a red hind crown and black nape. Its underparts are fine fawn bars on a grey background. The female looks similar to the male but has a black hind crown.

The Bearded woodpecker is noticeably larger than the Cardinal woodpecker.

“Sometimes the woodpecker will show up just to stimulate new rhythms. Rhythm is a powerful means of affecting the physical energies” ~ Ted Andrews

The red eye of the Bearded woodpecker is noticeable in the next image. Generally because this species of woodpecker is usually under a branch in the shade you do not notice its red eye.

In the trees behind the reception office we heard the distinct call of an Orange-breasted bushshrike. Its call sounds like ” coffee-tea-or-meeeee”.

This species of bushshrike has a striking grey crown, nape and cheeks. It has green upper parts. It has a striking yellow eyebrow and forehead, yellow neck and yellow underparts with a vibrant orange breast. Its eyes and lores are black.

After a productive and fun hour watching all the birds around us at Pretoriuskop rest camp we decided to head out and wander around the sand roads in the park outside the rest camp. Being February we were lucky enough to get a good sighting of an Amur falcon. This diminutive species of falcon migrates from its breeding grounds in Siberia and northern China to their wintering grounds in Southern and East Africa. Their migratory journey involves a spectacular mass migration across India and a non-stop flight over the Arabian Sea to Africa, covering a distance of about 22,000 km. 

“Migratory birds connect people, ecosystems and nations. They are symbols of peace and of an interconnected planet.” ~ Antonio Guterres

Visiting Pretoriuskop rest camp has always been productive from a birding perspective. We often see Green pigeons, Purple crested turacos and if we are lucky enough Brown-headed parrots. The Drongos, Groundscraper thrushes are always around as are a selection of Glossy starlings.

“The key to a wonderful life is to never stop wandering into wonder.” ~ Suzy Kassem

I have no doubt if we spent a many hours wandering around the grounds of this rest camp we would see many more species. This part of the Kruger park is highly productive from a birding and bird photography perspective.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

We stayed at Sabi River bungalows resort and used it as a springboard for our trips into Kruger Park in February this year. We usually enter the park through the Phabeni gate which is only 12 kilometres east of the town of Hazyview. Sabi River bungalows is only about four kilometres north west of Hazyview.

Once through the Phabeni gate we often turn right off the S1 onto Albasini road (S3) which takes us down to the H1-1, which is the main road from the Numbi gate to Pretoriuskop rest camp. The road is sand/gravel and is usually highly productive, from a birding point of view. The trick is to get into the park by 6h00 in summer because it is already light and the wildlife is more active before it gets too hot. The temperature can typically reach 35 degrees centigrade in this part of the world around midday.

“We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.” ~ Anonymous

The S14 Fayi Loop exits the S8 just west of Pretoriuskop. The loop is around 13 kilometres long and enters Voortrekker road just east of Pretoriuskop. The loop should take a minimum of a 45-minutes to drive, though with good sightings it could take a couple of hours. This sand road winds through terminalia woodlands and areas of sickle-bush. The start of loop is characterised by granite outcrops and coarse, reddish soil, which supports unique vegetation known as Pretoriuskop sourveld. This is habitat for sable antelope, white rhino and other wildlife.

Just at the start of the Fayi loop we were lucky enough to see an African Cuckoo-hawk in the top of a large tree. This was only the second time I have seen an African Cuckoo-hawk. The first time was in Tembe Elephant Park many years ago.

The African Cuckoo-hawk is so named because it resembles a common cuckoo in terms of shape and colour from a distance. The male is blackish-brown above with a grey mantle and chest with a blackish crest, the underparts are white marked with broad chestnut bars. The tail is black with three grey bars and grey and white tip.

The African Cuckoo-hawk is a shy raptor and little is known about its behaviour as it is not often seen and has secretive habits preferring the edges of evergreen forests and deciduous woodlands. Chameleons are known to be a significant part of the African Cuckoo-hawk’s diet, though it will also go for other reptiles, insects and even small mammals and birds.

There are several large granite outcrops at the start of the Fayi loop. We always look for Klipspringers on the rocks and even a leopard lying in the shade watching over its territory from a high rocky vantage point. At the base of these granite outcrops we found many ‘Pride of De Kaap’ bushes. Pride of De Kaap has characteristic two-winged leaves. The petals of these florescences are oar-shaped and around 40 mm long. During late summer these bushes are adorned with florescences which usually range in colour from salmon to orange and yellow to white.

The Fayi tributary starts close to the H1-1 main road from Numbi gate to Pretoriuskop rest camp. The Fayi tributary flows south for a significant length of the Fayi loop before joining the Nsikazi tributary which flows down along the south west park boundary to join the Crocodile river at the southern end of Kruger.

“I know not how I may seem to others, but to myself I am but a small child wandering upon the vast shores of knowledge, every now and then finding a small bright pebble to content myself with.” ~ Plato

We found this diminutive African Dusky flycatcher hunting insects in a bush next to the side of the sand road.

This looked to be a juvenile with its spotty crown and light brown streaks on its breast. The adult has an almost plain beige crown and similar soft dark smudges on its breast.

Further along the loop we found several Southern African giraffe browsing on the trees. One male giraffe had several Red-billed oxpeckers grooming his neck and mane.

Both Red-billed and yellow-billed oxpeckers primarily feed on ectoparasites like ticks found on large mammals, but their feeding behaviours and preferences differ slightly. Yellow-billed oxpeckers tend to focus on larger ungulates and may consume more ticks and have a higher overall food intake, while red-billed oxpeckers show more flexibility in host choice and may also feed on wounds. The Yellow-billed oxpecker feeds by plucking to remove parasites from its host whereas the Red-billed oxpecker used a scissoring technique.

The Fayi loop crosses the Fayi tributary in two places. These are normally the areas where we see rollers, bishops, canaries and widowbirds and on occasions Malachite kingfishers. We found an obliging male White-winged widowbird in the reeds and bushes along the first tributary crossing. Perhaps the reason this male White-winged widowbird was so obliging was that he was distracted by all the females in the area.

“To live in the world without becoming aware of the meaning of the world is like wandering about in a great library without touching the books.” ~ Dan Brown

He was very busy trying to impress all the passing females, flying back and forth displaying his white and yellow wing coverts and fanning his tail feathers. He was also very vocal calling to all the females.

As we were driving down the hill towards the second tributary crossing we saw this Common buzzard. It was scouring the area from a high vantage point in a dead tree.

The Common buzzard is a summer visitor to this part of the world. The Common buzzards that migrate typically breed in the colder regions of Europe and Asia and migrate south for the northern hemisphere winter.

This species prefers the higher rainfall eastern and southern areas of southern Africa with grasslands and open savanna with tree cover. The Common or Steppe buzzard can be identified by the pale horizontal band across its breast which separates the streaked upper breast from the banded underparts. Common buzzards exhibit significant colour variations, with plumage varying from very dark to almost completely white.

In certain diffused light the iridescent blue-green sheen on the Greater Blue-eared Glossy starling really shows. The Cape, Blue-eared and Black-bellied glossy starlings are tricky to tell apart as they have a simmar GISS (general impression of size and shape) and all have the glossy iridescent sheen on their plumage and orange eyes. The Cape and Blue-eared glossy starlings occupy the same habitats. The Blue-eared is the most iridescent of all the glossy starling species and has a distinct patch of dark blue feathers on the ear coverts.

In the reedbeds along the Fayi tributary we found several very active Red-collared widowbirds who was also busy chasing females.

Male widowbirds typically display from a prominent position during the breeding season to attract females and establish territories. The displaying male will usually chase any other males away from his territory. This male Red-collared widowbird displayed his scarlet red collar and long black tail feathers to great effect.

Next to the bridge at the second crossing of the Fayi tributary we saw several canaries bathing and drying themselves on the grass stems next to the open water. I am not sure what this species was but I think it was a Streaky-headed seedeater because of its prominent long curved white eyebrow, fine streaks on its brown crown, grey-brown upperparts and beige underparts.

A Striped kingfisher perched in a dead tree next to the sand road. This species is an insect eater not a fisherman. It is identified by its black eye band and broad white collar. It has the kingfisher-type powder-blue upper tail coverts and blue tail feathers. Importantly for identification, this species has a black upper mandible and red lower mandible. It also has a small chubby GISS and a short tail.

As we were driving on the Sand road towards the end of the Fayi loop through the terminalia woodlands we found this slow moving Common flap-neck chameleon. Having just stepped out of the green grass at the edge of the road it had not yet adjusted its camouflage. Chameleons have a laterally compressed body shape with turret-like eyes which can move independently and in opposite directions.

Chameleons are adept climbers with a long prehensile tail which acts as an extra limb and opposable digits for grasping branches and twigs. Chameleons can hear, although they don’t have external ear openings. They have a pterygoid ear, which is most sensitive to sounds between 200 and 600 Hz, so their hearing is limited.

Chameleons feed on insects like grasshoppers, beetles, flies and butterflies. This reptile has many enemies not the least of which is the African Cuckoo-hawk and the Southern ground hornbill.

This young Tree squirrel had found an edible berry next to the road and ignored us as it was trying to break through the hard outer shell.

“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures that we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.” ~ Jawaharlal Nehru

As you might expect along the Fayi tributary, the Waterbuck were never far from water. Waterbuck are highly dependent on water because the drink daily and seek refuge from predators in the water.

We saw a Klipspringer family on virtually every granite outcrop along the Fayi loop. Klipspringers have specially adapted hooves to grip onto rock faces. Their hooves are cylindrical, blunt, and have rubbery, cartilaginous pads on the tips, which act like a suction cup, providing extra grip and shock absorption and in doing so provide excellent traction. They also walk on the very tips of their hooves, which enhances their grip and allows them to navigate rocky terrain with agility and speed.

The Fayi loop must have taken us about three hours to complete mainly because there was so much to see. Not only was there a wonderful variety of mammals, reptiles and birds but the flora is unique around the granite outcrops. The Fayi loop follows the Fayi tributary for a long section which is where you are likely to find mammals coming down to drink and many birds that are attracted by the water and reeds.

“Travel is not reward for working, it’s education for living.” ~ Anthony Bourdain

The next post will show images from Pretoriuskop rest camp which we usually stop at for fuel and because there is a remarkable variety of birds in the camp.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

In February this year, Helen and I used some of our timeshare points to spend a week at the Sabi River Bungalows resort operated by Southern Sun.

The resort is bounded on the north and east side by the Sabi river which flows on into Kruger Park. There is a beautiful 18 hole golf course at the resort and several small dams which are water hazards for the golfers and one large dam to test golfers and offer great sightings of its teaming birdlife.

“The goal of life is living in agreement with nature.” ~ Zeno of Citium

A Southern Black flycatcher is mainly insectivorous but will eat beetles, termites worms, spiders and centipedes. This character had been worm hunting, ever the opportunist. This species of flycatcher looks very similar to a Fork-tailed drongo but has a smaller body, a smaller beak and does not have a forked tail. Its eyes are brown not red eye like the Drongo.

A demure White-fronted bee-eater perched on the edge of a Natal Mahogany next to a fairway on the golf course. It was hawking insects from this perch in the heat of the late afternoon. The white front is its forehead and white throat band under its beak and black eye mask. It’s lime green upper parts, red throat, buff orange breast and powder blue undertail coverts make it unmistakable.

This Kurrichane thrush was busy flicking its beak through the leaf litter looking for worms, insects or small fallen fruit. This species of thrush has grey upper parts, a white belly, buff-orange flanks, a distinctive bright orange bill and eye-ring, and a pale throat with a broad black moustache.

A female Broad-billed weaver close to her nest in the reeds at the edge of the main dam in the resort. The female of this species has a yellow beak and heavy brown stripes on her buff coloured throat and breast.

A demanding Broad-billed weaver chick hanging on to a reed in a prominent place so that its parents would notice it.

One of two Woolly necked storks foraging for insects along the edge of one of the fairways on the resort’s attractive golf course. This stork has a dark brown body and wing plumage which in certain light has a green-bronze iridescence on the wings and breast. It has a distinctive white ruffled neck, a white tail, red eye and a dark salmon-tipped bill. These two individuals were fully habituated to all the human activity around them.

“A walk in nature walks the soul back home.” ~ Mary Davis

A male Pied kingfisher hovering over the dam zeroing in on a fish he had seen just below the surface of the water. The male is identified by his double black breast band, a thin continuous black band below and a thicker broken black band across his chest.

A special sighting of a male Half-collared kingfisher in the deep shade of a tree overhanging the edge of the main dam. The main difference between male and female Half-collared kingfisher lies in their beak. Males have an entirely black bill, while females have some red at the base of their lower mandible. Both sexes otherwise have similar vibrant blue upperparts, a white throat, and pale orange underparts, making them difficult to distinguish at a glance. The dark blue patches on either side of the neck form a half collar. The legs and feet are bright red. 

A Groundscraper thrush on a dead branch in the thickly wooded edge of the golf course in the section that follows the course of the Sabi river on the northern side of the resort. Given its indistinct black facial markings and black teardrop shaped spots that did not extend fully under its belly, so I presumed it was a juvenile.

A Green-backed heron perched on a horizontal branch overhanging the water in the main dam.

A Green-backed heron hunting from a support at the bottom of the weir at the northern end of the main dam.

Green-backed herons diet consists of small fish, frogs, and aquatic insects but will also eat small vertebrates, molluscs, crabs, and worms when they can find them. The main dam and the weir below it are ideal hunting areas for this species.

A Purple heron hunting from the edge of the lawns leading down to the river that feeds into the main dam. It was early in the morning which is why there was plenty of moisture on the grass. All herons have striking plumage, and the Purple heron is no exception with its distinctive reddish brown plumage, a black crown and reddish face with a black stripe below the eye and a white upper throat band.

“Those who contemplate the beauty of the earth find reserves of strength that will endure as long as life lasts.” ~ Rachel Carson

The Purple heron prefers hunting in dense vegetation, especially thick reedbeds. It, like most herons, is a stealth hunter which spears its prey with a strong jab using its long neck and sharp dagger-like beak.

A male Broad-billed weaver perched in the reeds close to his female and his nest at the edge of the main dam in the resort. The male is brown with a dark bill and a white dash on its forehead either side of its top mandible and a white sash on first few primary wing feathers on each wing.

The male makes a nest which is beautifully compact and globe-shaped. The nests are woven from thin reed strips and suspended between upright reed stems. The entrance is uniquely positioned near the top unlike most weavers which have the entrance to their nests on the underside. This particular character was stealing fibres from another nest to weave his latest creation.

A male Cattle egret flying into a heronry in a large acacia tree in the island in the middle of the dam. There were many egrets and herons in the three large acacias and of course a heronry is never quiet.

It amazes me how these regrets negotiate the huge acacia thorns as they fly in to land and feed their chicks, and manage to not impale themselves.

“The world will never starve for want of wonders; but only for want of wonder.” ~ G.K. Chesterton

The instantly recognisable summer visitor, the Woodland kingfisher, with its white underparts and black wing coverts and cobalt blue primary wing feathers and back. It also has a distinctive red upper mandible and black lower mandible. This species of kingfisher feeds mainly on insects. Its frequent trilling is a familiar sound of summer.

A Black crake negotiating the reeds below the weir at the northern end of the main dam. It’s all black plumage, red eyes and pink-red legs and vibrant yellow beak make this species instantly recognisable. The red is particularly vibrant in the breeding season.

The Black crake prefers marshes, swamps and wetland areas so it’s long toes are ideal for navigating reeds, mud and floating vegetation. This species of crake is omnivorous so its diet varies from earthworms and insects to small fish, frogs and seeds and parts of water plants.

The heronry in the large acacia trees and one Natal Mahogany on the island in the middle of the main dam is the nesting site for egrets and herons alike. We saw a few Black-headed heron families in trees on the island.

It was amazing to watch how aggressive the siblings of both the egret and heron species got with their own species. The Black-headed heron chicks had not yet fledged and vied for food from the parents. Even when the chicks had finished the food the parents brought the sparring went on.

A young African jacana walking over the reeds and long grass using its long toes in a similar manner to the Black crake.

We saw many Reed cormorants and African darters in the main dam. This particular darter was fishing near the edge of the dam where we were sitting. It came up for air and all we could see was a small section of its neck and head. An African darter can hold its breath for up to around 100 seconds. This species, also called ‘the Snakebird’ because of its its distinctive swimming behaviour, where it swims with only its long, slender neck and head above the water, resembling a swimming snake. It is a fast underwater swimmer which spears fish with its beak. Once the fish is speared the darter surfaces to toss the fish into the air to reposition it so it can catch it and swallow the fish head-first. This makes swallowing easier and avoids the dorsal fin spines jamming the fish in the bird’s throat.

“Always be on the lookout for the presence of wonder.” ~ E.B. White

We saw many more birds around the golf course and around the small dams. There was also the north and eastern boundary of the resort which followed the Sabi river. The vegetation was thick and the light dappled making the bird photograph tricky but we could hear many birds in the dense vegetation.

“The earth has music for those who listen.” ~ William Shakespeare

We have been to the Sabi River bungalows resort several times because not only is a wonderful place to stay but is an ideal springboard to get into the Kruger Park from the Phabeni gate. The next few posts will show images and stories from our travels around Kruger Park on this trip.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

This is the last post from our wonderful few days in the vulture hide in Giant’s Castle Reserve in the Drakensberg in November last year.

“Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” ~ Mahatma Gandhi

We saw two types of vulture during our time in the hide, the Bearded and the Cape. In 2015, the Cape vulture had been classified as Endangered on the IUCN Red List, but was down-listed to Vulnerable in 2021 as some populations increased and have been stable since about 2016. A few factors are thought to contribute to its vulnerable status. It is facing habitat loss and disturbance of nesting sites which is problematic because it is a slow breeder. It also faces human threats like poisoning because it only feeds on carrion.

“May the wind under your wings bear you where the sun sails and the moon walks.” ~ J. R. R. Tolkien

The Cape vulture has a low aspect ratio wing. This means its wingspan, relative to its width, is comparatively low, which is ideal for soaring. Their wingtips feature slotted or separated primary feathers which reduce wingtips vortices, lowering drag and stall speed which facilitate circling in thermals. The large wingspan allows them to glide long distances, catch thermals and ride updrafts. These vultures are known to fly at altitudes of up to 8000 metres and use their superior eyesight to look for food.

The Cape vulture’s plumage is cream-white to pale russet. It has a collar of fluffy white feathers on the back of its neck. It has a long bluish-grey neck which is mostly bare skin with a small tufts of white feathers on it. Its head and face are blue-grey and covered with short white, hair-like feathers.

The Cape vulture has pale yellow eyes and a dark black beak (which grows throughout its life). White-backed, as well as Cape Vultures, have a unique groove and serrated tongue which allows them to access soft flesh which may not be accessible with their beaks. The nostrils of a Cape vulture, like those of other vultures, are adapted for an acute sense of smell, crucial for locating food. They lack a septum (the dividing wall between nostrils), allowing air to pass straight through and enabling them to detect scents from a distance, even from high altitudes. Their sense of smell is not as acute as other vulture species especially when soaring at high altitudes, but it is still a valuable sense when scavenging for their meals.

According to Operationmigration.org, the Cape vulture is southern Africa’s only endemic vulture species. It does not migrate but can travel up to 100 kilometres looking for food. This species is one of the largest vultures in southern Africa with a wingspan of up to 2.6 metres and weighing up to 11kg. It is smaller than a Lappet-faced or Griffon but larger than a White-backed vulture. The female Cape vulture is typically larger than the male.

The Cape vulture is much easier to photograph than the Bearded vulture or the Jackal buzzard. The reason for this is that it is a slow flier, and flies in from above rather than using the updraft to fly in from below the feeding terrace like the Jackal buzzard and the Bearded vulture.

It is always a thrill when these raptors fly onto the feeding terrace. They are large and have “full flaps down” with extended wings to slow themselves when coming in to land. This action can produce dramatic images.

“One learns from books and example only that certain things can be done. Actual learning requires that you do those things.” ~ Frank Herbert

As with most raptors, the Cape vulture will land on the rocks at the far end of the feeding terrace. It will then look around to ensure that it is safe to walk into the middle of the feeding terrace. By standing on the rock at the far end of the terrace, the vultures have a quick get away as the rocks create a sharp ledge from which it launch themselves in the Bushman’s river valley below.

The Cape vulture nests on cliffs and lays only one egg each year, which must contribute to its vulnerability. This is unusual as all other vultures lay multiple eggs. This species is monogamous and so forms pair bonds for many seasons. Both parents take responsibility for incubating the egg for just under 60 days and feed the chick once it hatches. The chick usually fledges after four to five months but remains dependent on its parents for food for several months thereafter.

One of the features of the Giant’s Castle hide is that you can often see interactions between one or a few Cape vultures and the Black-backed jackals. The jackals visit the feeding terrace in front of the hide multiple times a day to steal the bones we put out for the vultures.

“Time spent outdoors reminds us that we’re part of something larger: a beautiful universe brimming with endless possibilities” ~ Unknown

The jackals are brazen when there is only one Cape vulture on the terrace and will usually intimidate the vulture by running toward it with its head down in a menacing manner. It is not so one-sided when there are a few vultures on the bones. The vultures have been known to nip the jackal’s face when it gets too close. That is where their long neck comes in handy!

I was surprised by the interaction between the Cape vulture and Yellow-billed kite. The vulture walked up to within about two metres of a large bone with plenty of flesh and fat on it and then just stood and looked around. In the meantime, the Yellow-billed kite flew straight onto the bone and began eating. For about five minutes the Cape vulture did nothing showing no aggression towards the kite.

Eventually the Cape vulture decided it wanted to eat and used its large size to push the kite away from the bone it was feeding on. The kite did not seem scared of the much larger vulture, perhaps because of its flying agility.

‘Coming in hot on finals’. This Cape vulture descended rapidly from a thermal which had carried it high above the Bushman’s river valley and the feeding terrace in front of the hide. I love seeing some of the covert feathers on top of its wings lift when landing, suggesting stall speed above sections of the wing.

“Going outside lets us appreciate life’s precious moments that pass too quickly indoors” ~ Anonymous

During a stall or high angle of attack manoeuvres, a raptor’s covert feathers, particularly the upper-wing coverts, can passively deploy, acting as aeroelastic flow control devices. This deployment helps mitigate flow separation, improve lift, and potentially delay or prevent stall, especially during landing or when encountering gusts.

On our last morning in the hide it was moody with intermittent sunlight between the rapidly moving clouds. On previous occasions we usually only saw one Cape vulture land on the feeding terrace at a time, and very occasionally two. On this particular morning we saw 12 Cape vultures progressively fly in and land in front of the hide.

The Black-backed jackal must have seen all the Cape vultures flying on the feeding terrace. The thief inevitably gate crashed the Cape vulture party. Surprisingly, this young Black-backed jackal ran in among the vultures and stole one of the larger bones.

According to Project vulture, there are about 2 900 breeding pairs in southern Africa, of which around 1 450 pairs reside in the Maloti-Drakensberg mountains- about 20% of the population.

Giant’s Castle is a spectacular reserve with vast vistas, big skies and an imposing sandstone and basalt buttresses as a backdrop. The vulture hide is positioned on the western side of a ridge on the east side of the large deep Bushman’s river valley. The views are incredible, and the moods constantly changing because of the weather.

“Adventure is the bridge between dreams and reality. When we walk across that bridge, we can explore the unknown and uncover hidden wonders. With every step, we move closer to our ambitions, passions, and goals. Adventure gives us the courage to take risks and make bold decisions – decisions that help shape our destiny.” ~ Unknown

We have always had superb avian sightings from the hide with fly-bys by Bearded and Cape vultures, Jackal buzzards, Lanner falcons, Rock kestrels and Yellow-billed kites. I am still waiting to see a Black eagle from the hide. We saw Bald ibises, White-necked ravens, Red winged starlings, Buff-streaked and Familiar chats, Yellow bishops and Cape canaries, Malachite and Greater double-collared sunbirds, Cape longclaws and so many more.

“Wherever you go, go with all your heart” ~ Confucius

You will also see Eland, Mountain reedbuck, Chacma baboons and Black-backed jackals. The White-necked ravens and Black-backed jackals will test your patience as they are consummate bone thieves.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its inter=connectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike