Long standing family friend and photo buddy, Ann Nichols and I went to Amboseli National Park last October. The safari was organised by photographic and safari travel company, Wild Eye. This was the third trip to Amboseli with Wild Eye, but this time we did not have Wild Eye drivers and guides but relied on the guides from the two lodges we stayed in, and just outside, Amboseli National Park.

“Amboseli feels like a place where the land breathes in slow, powerful rhythms, with vast open plains stretching endlessly beneath the watchful presence of Mount Kilimanjaro.” — Kostas Fikas

We visited Amboseli for our five days, staying three nights at Elephant Garden Camp on the east side and two nights at Elewana Tortilis Camp on the west side of the park. The first lodge, Elephant Garden Camp was located outside the park about 20 minutes drive from the Kimana (originally Olkelunyiet) gate on the eastern boundary of Amboseli National Park. From that gate, we accessed the swamps at the heart of Amboseli via the Oloitokitok sand road. It took about 45 minutes on the extremely rough sand/gravel road to get to the swamps where many of the elephant families feed.

“Nothing but breathing the air of Africa, and walking through it, can communicate the indescribable sensations.” -“William Burchell”

Amboseli National Park, is in Kajiado District of the Rift Valley Province in south western Kenya. The park is 39,206 hectares (392 km2) in size and is at the core of an 8,000 square kilometre ecosystem that spreads across the Kenya-Tanzania border. The park protects two of the five main swamps in the district, the Olokenya and Enkongo Narok swamps, the other three are outside Amboseli National Park. The Amboseli lake, which is seasonal, and more often than not dry, is mostly inside the park on its north western boundary.

Thankfully, we flew from Nairobi’s Wilson airport to the Amboseli airstrip which took about 45 minutes and saved a road trip along the A109 highway which would have taken around six to seven hours, depending on traffic. We arrived in Amboseli around mid-morning so the sun was high in the sky and it was already getting warm.

“Amboseli greets its visitors with vistas of Kilimanjaro, herds of elephants, and swamps swirling in dust where vivid reflections of feathers and wings dance in its large open pools.” ~ Mike Haworth

Most safari visitors go to Amboseli for elephants with a Mount Kilimanjaro background, but the crowds have grown materially since my first visit. Unlike the mammals, the bird life around the swamps does not seem to attract a fraction of the visitors’ attention, but is abundant and wonderfully varied. The swamps attract huge numbers of waterbirds and waders. We saw many Squacco herons hunting in the reeds and long grass next to the pools of water in the Olokenya swamp. The swamps in Amboseli National Park are primarily fed by underground water originating from rain and snowmelt on Mount Kilimanjaro. This water travels through volcanic rock, creating a persistent underground aquifer that breaks the surface to form lush marshes and wetlands in the dry savanna.

An adult Greater flamingo on the left-hand side and a juvenile Greater flamingo on the right. Huge flocks of flamingos can be seen in the shallow open pools in the swamps. The swamps in Amboseli National Park are primarily shallow, groundwater-fed wetlands rather than deep lakes, with water levels on the dried-up Lake Amboseli floor often remaining under 0.6 meters even when filled during rainy seasons.

A male Greater Painted snipe. Sexes of this species are dimorphic regarding their plumage colouring. The male is distinguished from true snipes by his pale breast harness and white eye-patch. The female is more brightly coloured than male with a dark chestnut neck and breast.

Once you have spotted a Painted snipe it is easy to keep your eyes on it but it is usually well camouflaged so to see it in the first place can be tricky and it is usually its movement that gives them away.

Great white pelicans are abundant in the swamps and can often be seen hunting in groups corralling the fish into a shallow or small inlet. The Great white pelican is easily identified by its large size and its yellow bill pouch and pink skin around its eyes.

A Collared pratincole is an elegant, agile flier that looks like a cross between a plover and a swallow. The Collared species is recognised by grey-brown upper parts, beige throat and breast with a dark brown necklace and a white belly. The base of its beak is red. The Collared pratincole is a bird of open country, and is often seen near water in the evening, hawking for insects.

A White browed coucal is a member of the cuckoo family. The underparts and nape are streaked, and it has a distinctive white eyebrow. The rump and upper tail coverts are barred, unlike other coucals. It prefers to clamber through reeds and thick vegetation when foraging. Like most coucals, the white-browed coucal is considered omnivorous. While it is primarily known as an opportunistic carnivore and insectivore, its diet is broad and flexible. Due to this unique sound and its tendency to call during high humidity or before storms, it is widely referred to as the “rainbird”.

An elephant bull feeding on the lush vegetation in the swamp. While feeding the bull was disturbing many insects in the surrounding vegetation which attracted several Cattle egrets.

“Wetlands are actually unsung heroes. They nurture young fish, provide refuge for animals and birds, and protect our communities from floods.” — Annie Proulx

An adult Cattle egret perched on the back of an elephant watching and waiting for insects to be flushed by the movement of the elephant.

Amboseli beyond the swamps is dry and arid. Our first sighting in this arid section on our way from the airstrip to Elephant Garden camp was a pair of mating lions. The heat haze dictated that I could not get tack sharp images of this sighting.

A Fischer’s sparrow-lark found in its usual habitat in dry grasslands and semi-arid areas. Beyond the swamps Amboseli is surprisingly arid. Fischer’s sparrow-lark is a ground-foraging bird that primarily eats grass seeds, supplemented by insects. They are often seen in small flocks foraging in short grass, bare fields, and semi-arid savannas to find food. The staple of their diet is grass seeds, which they collect from the ground. Their finch-like bills are adapted for handling these seeds.

A White-browed sparrow-weaver. I am always amazed at how sparrows and weavers can land on an acacia branch with huge spikes and not get impaled.

A Little bee-eater hawking insects in the heat of the day.

There was plenty of activity in the open grasslands away from the swamps. A pair of Ostriches were mating. The mating ritual is quite a display. Ostriches mate through an elaborate courtship ritual where males (cocks) defend territory, turn their shins and neck bright red and perform a dance by waving their wings, swaying and booming. Females choose mates based on this display. The mating occurs when the female sits, allowing the male to mount her from behind. Unlike most birds, male ostriches have a phallus for mating.

A male Black-bellied bustard striding through the long grass hunting for insects. This species looks very similar to the Hartlaub’s bustard. The male is similar to the male Hartlaub’s Bustard, but separated by a greyer face with a less definitive white mark on the cheek and it has lighter coloured eyes.

We eventually got to Elephant Garden camp around midday and were very pleasantly surprised. It was restful and luxurious tented camp. The accommodation was in large very comfortable tents with all the modern facilities.

The main dining, reception and bar area is large and open to all passing breezes. It looks onto a wonderful vista which stretches south across a large open grassland to Mount Kilimanjaro.

A traffic jam of safari vehicles all jockeying for place to get the best view of a breeding herd of elephants crossing the road. This is not what we were expecting and it happened time and time again. The quality of driving by the majority of safari vehicle drivers was inconsiderate and at times reckless. There seemed to be little regard for the animals which were supposed to be the centre of the attraction.

On the first afternoon of our Elephant Garden part of the Amboseli trip, Ann and I went out on a game drive into Amboseli through the Kimana gate and along the Oloitokitok sand road which was in very poor condition. To make matters worse, the rutted and very bumpy road had what looked to be about 150mm of fine white dust on it. It took about 45 minutes of rough riding to get from the Kimana gate to the lower end of the Olokenya swamp.

Little did we know when it was time to turn back to get through the Kimana gate before it closed at 18h00 all the other safari vehicles that entered through the Kimana gate had the same idea. There must be around 15 camps/lodges within half an hour drive of the Kimana gate. On the evening return trip to the Kimana gate, the safari vehicle drivers were reckless, driving way too fast on an extremely bumpy road and all of them churning up dust to the point where you could not see the road in front of you. I have never experienced anything like this in the 60 years I have been visiting wildlife parks in Africa. Our safari vehicle had no windows so our camera kit was covered in a thick layer of fine white dust, and I cannot tell you politely what we looked like.

“Be a curator of your life. Slowly cut things out until you’re left only with what you love, with what’s necessary, with what makes you happy.” ~ Leo Babauta

Needless to say we told our safari guide/driver we were not prepared to do another afternoon drive in Amboseli like that again. The next afternoon we chose to stay in camp and photograph the wonderful variety of birds which we saw around the camp. A relaxed afternoon photographing birds and enjoying early sundowners reset our attitude. The third afternoon we drove around Elephant Garden Camp’s small conservancy. We had wonderful sightings of Gerenuks and saw many new birds.

“Shifting the mind into lower gear can bring better health, inner calm, enhanced concentration and the ability to think more creatively.” ~ Carl Honoré

At the time we questioned why Wild Eye had chosen a camp outside the eastern gate of Amboseli but on the third day it became apparent. The oldest biggest tusker, Craig spent much of his time feeding in the conservancies just east of Amboseli near the Kimana gate. On the third day we got the message that Craig had been located and we could take a short easy drive to spend a couple of hours photographing him.

Explore, see to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

Inspired by our trip to Shompole in August, I wanted to keep camera fit for my trip to Amboseli and the Mara Triangle in October. I often visit Marievale Bird Sanctuary for photographic practice. Marievale Bird Sanctuary is about 45 kms from Johannesburg in the Gauteng province of South Africa. Birds are busy early in the mornings so we needed to get to Marievale by 6h15 at the latest. The early timing was firstly to see the birds at their most active and also to miss the heavy traffic from Tsakane near Nigel.

“Don’t only practice your art but force your way into its secrets.” — Ludwig van Beethoven

Once we had signed in and entered through the Nigel entrance to Marievale Bird Sanctuary we drove slowly to the Hadeda hide. As we drove towards the hide we found a pair of Shelley’s francolin. I have never seen Shelley’s francolin in all the years I have been visiting Marievale. What a treat, these are magnificently coloured francolin.

The pair of Shelley’s francolin moved from behind the hide to in front of it where one individual spent some time preening itself.

Also standing at the entrance to the Hadeda hide was a pair of Spotted thick-knees. This species is primarily nocturnal which is why its eyes were partially closed to reduce the glare of the early morning sunlight.

Once inside the Hadeda hide we watched and waited. There was a pair of Wire-tailed swallows which were hawking insects from a perch just to the side of the hide.

We see Stonechats everytime we visit Marievale. The male Stonechat is on the left and female on the right. Stonechats are primarily insect eaters but will forage on fruit and seeds when they cannot find insects.

A Cape reed-warbler with its distinct white eyebrow. This character was climbing through the short reeds in front of the hide. It was picking tiny insects off the reed stems.

“Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” — Mahatma Gandhi

Springtime is baby time. This female Blacksmith lapwing was resting with her recently hatched chick in a patch of new green foliage amongst the old dead reed stems.

The two Blacksmith lapwing chicks were days old and already feeding themselves – precocial.

“Spring is proof that there is beauty in new beginnings.” — Unknown

Yellow-billed duck showing its iridescent mauve speculum. The water level in Marievale was unusually low so the ducks had to waddle through mud to find a patch of water they could dabble in.

This Purple swamphen was in its element as it could easily negotiate the shallow water, mud sections and reeds with plenty to feed on.

There were numerous Pied avocets enjoying the shallow waters. The level of the water in Marievale has a pervasive influence on the type and number of birds you are likely to see. This Pied avocet was successfully foraging for food in the shallows.

A pair of immature Greater flamingos striding through the shallows in unison. The young are grey at birth, but their plumage turns pinkish around the age of three. The beak is straight at birth but gradually curves so that it can scrape the bottom of marshes. Initially, both its beak and legs are pink, but after a week to ten days they turn black. Until their beak curves (after a month or so) the chicks cannot filter tiny organisms from the water. Instead, the adults feed them a nutrient-rich secretion called crop milk, produced in the crop area. Greater flamingo chicks begin to feed for themselves at between 2.5 to 3 months of age.

A flock of Lesser flamingos feeding in one of the deeper pools. Easily identified by their evenly coloured dark maroon bill and they tend to be pinker that their greater cousins. Lesser flamingos get their pink colour from pigments in an algae called spirulina, which is their primary food. Spirulina is high in protein 60% to 65%, vitamins, minerals and phytonutrients such as carotenoids.

“A change fell upon all things. Strange brilliant flowers, star-shaped, burst out upon the trees where no flowers had been before. The tints of the green carpet deepened; and when, one by one, the white daisies shrank away, there sprang up, in place of them, ten by ten of the ruby-red asphodel. And life arose in our paths; for the tall flamingo hitherto unseen, with all gay glowing birds, flaunted his scarlet plumage before us. The golden and silver fish haunted the river.” ~ Edgar Allan Poe

Given the relatively small size of the Little stint’s beak it cannot prod very deep into the mud. These tiny wading birds nest on tundra in northern Scandinavia and Siberia, and then spend the northern hemisphere winter in Africa, South Asia and southern Europe. Little stints are usually found feeding on estuaries or the muddy shores of wetlands.

“Migratory birds connect people, ecosystems, and nations. They are symbols of peace and of an interconnected plant.” ~ Antonio Guterres

Little stints foraging along the edge of the water probing the mud for small insects and crustaceans.

A Marsh sandpiper watching the sky for aerial threats. Marsh sandpipers have relatively small bodies but their very long greenish legs and long fine straight bill make this species distinctive.

A Marsh sandpiper is distinguished by its long thin yellow-green legs and long thin beak. This species is migratory, with the majority wintering in Africa and India, while others travel to Southeast Asia and Australia. They favour freshwater wetlands such as swamps and lakes during the winter and are typically observed alone or in small groups.

A ruff is an early visitor from Russia. Russian ruffs migrate vast distances, often travelling 30,000 km in an annual round trip. Ruffs breed in Siberia and northern Russia migrate up to 15,000 km to Southern Africa, primarily using the East Atlantic Flyway. They fly west across Eurasia, move down the Atlantic coast of Europe, and continue to southern African wetlands for the non-breeding season, with some traversing inland routes via Kazakhstan. The East Atlantic Flyway is a migration route used by about 90 million birds annually, passing from their breeding areas in the United States, Canada, Greenland, Iceland, Siberia and northern Europe to wintering areas in western Europe and on to southern Africa. It is one of the eight major flyways used by waders and shorebirds.

“To watch the flight of shore birds that have swept up and down the surf lines of the continents for untold thousands of years… is to have knowledge of things that are as nearly eternal as any earthly thing can be.” — Rachel Carson

A Levaillant’s cisticola working its favourite area along the edge of wetlands. Levaillant’s cisticolas are insectivorous, foraging low down in vegetation for termites, grasshoppers, larvae and small beetles.

African pipit foraging through the short grass close to one of the access roads.

A juvenile Reed cormorant seen along the powerline servitude. It was warming up and drying out after fishing. The juvenile has the off-white underparts and its upper chest is a darker buff colour. Its underparts plumage will darken as it matures.

A Red-knobbed coot. The red knobs are present in both males and females making the sexes similar in appearance.
During the breeding season, two distinctive red knobs develop above the frontal shield, enhancing visibility but becoming reduced or absent outside this period.

A one legged Black-winged stilt in flight.

A scruffy Black crake striding across a muddy section at the edge of one of the large pools of water.

A male Long-tailed widowbird in his non breeding buff plumage with dark brown streaks. This male was displaying to passing females even before he had moulted into his black breeding plumage with long tail feathers.

The bird sightings are always good at Marievale. You can expect to see a selection of flamingos, herons, ducks, crakes, rails, grebes, sandpipers, kingfishers and snipes. In summer, the grassland birds are in full breeding colours. I have also seen Fish eagles, Marsh harriers and Black-shouldered kites in Marievale. I have seen reed buck, water mongooses and otters (at a distance). There many slender mongooses near the mine dumps.

“How sweet the morning air is! …How small we feel with our petty ambitions and strivings in the presence of the great elemental forces of Nature!” ~ Arthur Conan Doyle

As I mentioned earlier, the selection of birds you can see is strongly influenced by the depth of water in the open pools of water. There are also plenty of carp to keep the darters, cormorants and herons well feed.

“If there is magic on this planet, it is contained in water.” — Loren Eiseley

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be,

Have fun , Mike

This is the third post showing images from our trip to Shompole Conservancy’s hides. The main objective of the trip was to spend time in both the Plains and Kichaka hide. Typically, we entered the hide around 16h00 each afternoon, spent the night in the hide and returned to camp about 10h30 the next morning. So most of the time spent in the hide was at night. The only crepuscular/nocturnal birds we saw were Long-tailed, Slender-tailed and Square-tailed nightjars at dusk and dawn and a lone Verreaux eagle-owl at the Plains hide one night.

“Hidden behind each wildlife image are those years of perseverance, months of travel, days of preparation and hours of patience; all these to capture the wonders of wildlife within a spilt second.” ~ Alvis Lazarus

The focus of this post is to show a selection of birds that I photographed from the hides in afternoon from 16h30 until sunset and from dawn until around 10h00 the next day. The wonderful aspect of the hides is that the birds are not nearly as skittish as the mammals and they were close to us. This meant that there were multiple opportunities to capture different poses and bird behaviour.

“Through the lens, I enter a dialogue with the wild. Nature reveals its purest essence.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

A pair of Black-faced sandgrouse at the water’s edge in front of the hide. As with all the sandgrouse, this species is dimorphic The male has a distinctive vertical black stripe from its forecrown down to its throat and narrow black and white stripes curving above and behind the eyes. Underparts have a narrow black breast band above a broader white band across the chest.

Pairs and small flocks flew to the waterhole for a drink and to collect water late in the afternoon and again around 8h30 in the morning. They need water at least once a day and often fly great distances (40 to 60 kms) to get to water.

Sandgrouse are ground feeders and are mainly seed eaters. They intentionally swallow small stones and grit to help their gizzard grid up the hard dry seeds.

“Always be on the lookout for the presence of wonder.” –E.B.White

Many Red-billed firefinches arrived at the waterhole to drink in the late afternoon and especially first thing in the morning just after sunrise. The male has the beautiful pinkish-red plumage.

Both sexes have a pinkish-red on the sides of their bill and a grey culmen on its upper mandible.

Namaqua doves were numerous at the waterholes. They drink quickly and rocket away from the water so the only way to capture a take-off is with the procapture feature on my OM1 camera. The male has the black face and neck and a beak that has a red base and yellow tip.

Like the Namaqua doves, the Emerald spotted wood doves also drank quickly and flew away from the water very quickly. This is probably a response to the ever present threat from Gabar goshawks or a Lanner falcon.

A pair of Yellow-throated spurfowl visiting the waterhole at each hide in the afternoon and after sunrise. They would stand about 20 metres from the waterhole and assess the risk before walking into have a long drink.

Bare-throated spurfowls are characteristic of open bushed and wooded grasslands. The female is usually smaller than the male and lacks the spur at the back of the legs.

Adult Guineafowl are easily identified by the upright bony casque on top of the head. This species is different to the southern African helmeted guineafowl as it has an elongated casque and no red wattles that hang down from its cheeks.

Chestnut bellied sandgrouse are dimorphic. The male has a yellow-buff head neck and breast that ends with a dark brown crescent shaped stripe across its belly which is brown.

This species of sandgrouse also flies long distances to reach water. While most birds feathers repel water, sandgrouse have a remarkable ability to absorb and retain water in their belly feathers which they carry back to their fledglings. Scientists have found that male sandgrouse feathers can hold about 25 milliliters of water, or about a tenth of a cup, after the bird has spent about five minutes dipping in the water and fluffing its feathers. (Source: news.mit.edu/2023/scientists-uncover-sandgrouse-hold-water-feathers-0411)

A male Chestnut-bellied sandgrouse taking off with his breast feathers soaked with water. Bird feathers in general have a central shaft, from which smaller barbs extend, and then smaller barbules extend out from those. Sandgrouse feathers are structured differently, however. In the inner zone of the feather, the barbules have a helically coiled structure close to their base and then a straight extension. In the outer zone of the feather, the barbules lack the helical coil and are simply straight. When wetted, the coiled portions of the barbules unwind and rotate to be perpendicular to the vane, producing a dense forest of fibers that can hold water through capillary action. At the same time, the barbules in the outer zone curl inward, helping to hold the water in. (Source: https://news.mit.edu/2023/scientists-uncover-sandgrouse-hold-water-feathers-0411)

The African mourning dove is the second largest ring-necked dove. It has a grey brown head with a distinctive yellow eye and a narrow red ring.

There were plenty of opportunities to use my camera’s procapture feature to capture take-off and landings with doves and sandgrouse at the waterholes.

At the Plains hide we had daily visitations by a lone Secretary bird. This raptor seemed unconcerned by the hide and spent long periods drinking. Usually when I come across a Secretary bird striding out in the open grasslands it is always walking away so in the hide we were able to get unusually close to this raptor.

Similar to most raptors, the Secretary bird cannot suck up water so needs to scoop water into its lower bill then tip its head back to let the water run down its throat.

Many Cut-throat finches arrived early each morning to drink at the waterhole in front of the hides. This species of finch is dimorphic where the male has a bright red throat band which the female lacks. Both male and female are a light gray-brown with breast feathers that make it look heavily scaled. Its head and nape are have distinctive dark brown barring.

Grey headed silverbill visited the waterhole in front of the Plains hide. This species is a large-billed distinctively marked waxbill. Its head is grey and its face and throat are covered in white dots. Its belly is a light ochre colour and its rump is white. This species is gregarious moving in small flocks and is predominately a seed eater.

We heard the Verreaux eagle-owl at night but I only managed to get a far away image of one. Other photographers in our group managed to capture images of a Verreaux eagle-owl drinking and bathing in the water in front of the Plains hide.

A pair of Kori bustards visited the Plains hide in the afternoon and after sunrise. Kori bustards drink while standing up and hock sitting. The Kori bustard sucks up water rather than scooping it up. They then raise their head to around a 45^o angle to gulp it down. This species spends some time drinking, taking long draws of water.

The Kori bustards we saw at the wterhole in front of the hide were unusually relaxed even with guineafowl, baboons and zebra milling around. This is a ground dwelling bird and is known to be the largest flying bird in Africa though it does not fly long distances, just enough to get away from trouble.

The Kori bustard has striking plumage which becomes evident when it starts to preen itself or when a male is displaying to a female. In display mode the male fluffs out his necks feathers and lifts his tail up vertically into a fan shape.

We only saw Yellow-billed oxpeckers in front of the hides which favour the larger herbivores.

Although we spent all our nights in the two photographic hides and tried to catch up on sleep during the day, there is plenty more to see and experience in Shompole Conservancy. One activity I want to do the next time I visit Shompole early in 2027 is to spend a day photographing birds at Lake Natron in the south of the Conservancy and Lake Magadi in the north.

The high alkalinity of the water dictate that these are soda lakes. As such they are home to large flocks of Greater and Lesser flamingos, pelicans and Grey crowned cranes. The lakes are home to around 450 birds species.

“Fresh air is as good for the mind as for the body. Nature always seems trying to talk to us as if she had some great secret to tell. And so she has.” ~ John Lubbock

Apart from the attraction of so many bird species, the lakes are known for their vivid red, pink and orange colours. The stunning colours are created by salt-loving microorganisms specifically cyanbacteria and halarchaea which produce pigments like beta-carotene which turn the water bright red.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

This the second post describing our Shompole trip with CNP Safaris. The initial attraction on this trip was the photographic hides that Shompole Wilderness offers in the Shompole Conservancy. There are two hides, the Plain’s hide and the more recently completed Kichaka hide. The last post showed mammal images taken from the Kichaka hide which sited in a more intimate surrounding focused on smaller wildlife. This post shows mammal images taken from the Plain’s hide which attracts a more diverse variety of wildlife from its large surrounding plain.

“The photo is the hunt, it’s the instinct of hunting without the desire to kill. It’s the hunt of angels. You trail, you aim, you fire and — click! — instead of a killing the subject you make it everlasting.” ~ Chris Marker

The Plain’s hide is purposefully set in a quite different environment to the Kichaka hide. The former is placed in an extensive open plain. The treeline is about 100 metres from the waterhole to the west and north, and a well-wooded area is 30 metres to south-west and south. This means that during the day you can see the wildlife approaching the hide’s waterhole from quite a distance. If the wildlife approaches from the west the Shompole mountain makes an imposing scenic backdrop in the distance.

“Wildlife photography is more than just taking pictures. It is about connecting with nature and understanding the beauty of the natural world.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

At night the wildlife visitations are frequent and the animals seem to drink more deeply. Perhaps this is because the animals are more habituated to the older Plain’s hide and perhaps the more open surround provides greater protection because a threat can be sensed further away. There was a remarkable variety of animals and birds that came to drink at the waterhole and they came from all directions because of the openness of the surrounds.

In the dry season, when the wind blows the Plain’s hide can be very dusty. This can be an advantage as it creates a moody background and it can be a disadvantage because your camera kit gets very dusty. At night the lights, especially the backlight, can generate wonderfully moody scenes when the wildlife comes into drink and kicks up dust which swirls carried by a gentle nightly breeze.

The hides are sunk low in the ground to ensure photographers are at eye level to the birds and animals drinking at the waterhole. The hide has windows in front facing the waterhole and windows on each side to watch wildlife approaching or leaving the waterhole. The windows remain open while the hide is occupied.

This leopardess approached the waterhole from the northern side emerging from the distant treeline. Not one of the four of us or the Maasai guide in the hide heard her approach nor could we hear her drinking.

It was clear that this leopardess was aware of something in the hide but it did not deter her. The lights at the back and sides of the hide shine onto the animals so they cannot easily see into the hide. Electric fans create white noise to muffle the sounds of photographers moving around. Fresh water is replenished daily and is pumped four kilometres from the Ewaso Ng’iro river. The wildlife clearly prefers the fresh water.

Every animal that came to drink at night was on high alert and reacted to sounds that emanated from the surrounds. Their sensitivity was understandable because they could be seen from afar in the light around the hide.

Most of the nocturnal mammals came to drink singly with the exception of lions and Spotted hyaenas. On several occasions a lone Civet came to drink at the hide’s waterhole. Civets require access to fresh water daily, so they are generally found in habitats close to permanent water sources. They are nocturnal animals that often drink during the night while foraging.

Wild civets, particularly the African civet, prefer areas with dense vegetation and consistent access to water. They often sleep in thickets near water sources during the day. As a result the civets we saw usually approached from the closest treed area south west of the hide. After a few Civet visits we knew from which direction to expect them to approach. Having settled down to drink this civet had an unexpected visitor which caused dorsal crest to rise signalling alarm.

The next images show the civet was alarmed by two buffalo bulls that walked straight up to the waterhole and started to drink. Interestingly, the different species were tolerant and not aggressive towards each other. With the two species, buffalo and civet, the size difference dictated that there was no competition.

“The photographer can’t create a picture, he only can compose.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

A giraffe bull was picked up in the penumbra. He just waited patiently for his turn to drink. Most of the time only a lone giraffe bull would come to the waterhole to drink.

I always find it fascinating to watch how mammals interact especially around a waterhole at night, given the heightened predator risk. Once the civet left the waterhole the buffalo bull moved around the waterhole making room for the giraffe bull to come and drink.

We did not see a breeding herd of elephants come to drink at either waterhole but one or two elephant bulls came to drink during the day and we saw only a single bull at night. Elephants have excellent night vision, often superior to their daytime sight. Being cathemeral animals – active at irregular intervals throughout both the day and night – their vision adapts to the differing lighting conditions. They use a Tapetum Lucidum—a reflective layer of tissue behind the retina—to see clearly in the dark, though their range is generally limited to not more than 25 metres.

At night, elephant’s eyes are most sensitive to blue and violet light, meaning their eyes are fairly well equipped for travel or activity during the darkest hours of the night (Source: GlobalElephants.org). Because vision is not their strongest sense, elephants heavily rely on their exceptional sense of smell and hearing for navigation and safety, especially in the dark.

Giraffe bulls usually visited the waterhole singly during the night. Giraffe have incredibly sensitive hearing. A giraffe 12 metres away can hear the rustle of photographers clothes when the latter move in the hide which often disturbs them while they are drinking. Scientific studies have found that giraffe hearing frequency ranges from 16 Hz to 18,000 Hz. They are particularly adept at detecting infrasounds (sounds below 20 Hz), allowing them to hear long-distance communication and potential threats from afar. Giraffes have 25 centimetre long, funnel-shaped ears that condense sounds effectively. In addition, they can swivel their ears in different directions to determine the direction of the source of the sound. While quiet during the day, giraffes have been recorded making low-frequency “hums” at night to keep in touch with their herd.

“Through the lens, I enter a dialogue with the wild. Nature reveals its purest essence.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

A pride of six lions , two adult females and four adolescents, came to drink at the waterhole at least twice a night. In the middle of the night the pride drank quickly then moved off. When the pride returned to drink just before dawn they stayed in the trees in the south west of the hide probably waiting to see what potential prey would come to drink at dawn.

“My lens bridges the gap between human and wild. It allows me to speak nature’s language.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

A wary but thirsty Debussa waterbuck bull came to the waterhole to drink in the middle of the night. The backlights caughts some of the dust stirred up by his arrival.

A Black-backed jackal illuminated in the hide’s lights just beyond the waterhole. Even the jackals were dead quiet when they approached the waterhole at night.

Once the sun began to rise a group of Plains zebra approached the hide’s waterhole from the west. The boys and girls seemed to have a lot to say to each other early in the morning.

“A little bit of waiting is necessary to get to the sights we hope for.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

One of the mares was trying to avoid too much attention from two of the young stallions.

The zebra arrival is just what the lions had been waiting for but on this occasion there were lions to be seen.

The same pride of six lions visited the waterhole on the second night. They again drink quickly and moved off into the night.

We had many nocturnal visits from a pair of Bat-eared foxes. I assumed the Bat-eared foxes remained close to the waterhole at night because of the plethora of insects. Bat-eared foxes are specialised insectivores and insects (mainly harvester termites) comprise 80–90% of their diet. The remaining part of their diet is just about anything else they can find — fruits, berries, seeds, lizards, eggs, rodents, grasshoppers, beetles, scorpions, crickets, and even some species of fungi.

A small group of Spotted hyaenas came to drink on several occasions. They remained alert and tentative in the light but were clearly thirsty. We were hoping to see the elusive Striped hyaena, but no luck. During the four nights that we alternated with the other group of photographers none of us saw the Striped hyaena. This is one species we will have to return to photograph.

At night when the lights were turned on to illuminate mammals as they came to drink at the hide’s waterhole we could see many bats. The lights attracted many species of insects. The bats, which are echo-locating insectivores, had a nightly feast. I presumed the surface of the water, being a good reflector, helped their echo-location of prey. I do not know what species of bats we saw but they were insectivores rather than fruit bats. The area is known to host species like the Egyptian free-tailed bat.

“In every moment nature is conspiring to expand my perceptions.” ~ Robbie George

We did not see nightjars during the night. Most nightjars rely on their large eyes to locate and capture moths and beetles when it is getting dark. Night-time conditions can prove challenging. So nightjars are most active just after dusk and just before dawn, when there is sufficient light. They only forage deep into the night when the sky is cloudless and the moon is bright.

The backlighting provides some wonderful photographic opportunities and the occasional buffalo bull posed beautifully for some unusual images.

A strip of backlights was sunk into the ground about 15 metres behind the edge of the water hole. The light created some fascinating images especially with the reflection on the mirror-like surface of the water when there is no wind. They were particularly effective with larger species like buffalo and giraffe.

Giraffe have a tendency to flick their heads once they have finished drinking water. The shower of water spilling out of their mouths creates some intriguing images, especially when back lit at night. The head flick is not just a quirky habit — it’s pure evolutionary engineering.

“Colour is descriptive. Black and white is interpretive.” ~ Elliott Erwitt

A giraffe’s neck contains a specialised valve system that protects its brain from sudden blood-pressure changes. When it lifts its head after drinking, that valve needs to reopen fast. The head flick helps “reset” the blood flow. The Rete Mirabele (“wonderful net”) in giraffes is a complex, specialised network of arteries and veins in the upper neck that acts as a vital blood pressure regulation system and prevents too great a backflow of blood to the brain and protects against sudden blood pressure changes when a giraffe lowers its head to drink or lifts it quickly. When bending down this mechanism reduces the pressure of the blood at the base of the brain to about 120/80 compared with the normal 260/160.

During our second night at the Plain’s hide the small pride of lions returned at dawn for another drink and to see what was on the the morning’s waterhole menu.

There was nothing of consequence for the lions on the morning menu except many Helmeted guineafowl so the lions chased the guineafowl around for a while then started to play with each other.

“Every sunrise is a masterpiece painted by nature, waiting to be captured” ~ Biju Karakkonam

A pair of Warthogs came to drink. Initially, the female was affectionate with the male but later there seemed to be a minor family warthog confrontation.

A Warthog boar cooling down in the heat of the late afternoon. Boars are often found alone. He was enjoying a little spar treatment from a small flock of Yellow-billed oxpeckers. The species of oxpecker is larger than its Red-billed cousin and its bill has a bright yellow base and red tip. It also has paler plumage on the back between its folded wings compared to its Red-billed cousin. Red-billed and Yellow-billed oxpeckers possess specialised beak morphologies which dictate distinct feeding behaviours and preferences, reducing direct competition allowing them to coexist. The Yellow-billed oxpecker has a thicker, broader, and stronger beak and so uses “plucking” and “hammering” techniques to remove larger parasites which are usually found on larger hosts such as buffalo and giraffes. This boar was getting special treatment.

Young Yellow baboons know to cling tightly to their mothers when their they come to the waterhole to drink. The action can start in a split second so a tight grip of the parent’s hair is vital. I cannot imagine how sore that must be for the mother.

Early in the morning the Yellow baboons descended from their arboreal bedrooms and came to the waterhole to drink. Baboons en mass were never quiet. There are always youngsters playing or adults chastising teenagers with lots of screaming and dashing around.

After two or three nights with minimal sleep in the hide the fear of missing out (FOMO) abated and the photographers would take in turns to sleep for an hour or two. The on-guard photographers would then quietly wake the sleepers if something interesting was approaching the waterhole.

“I am always looking for new ways to capture the beauty of the natural world. I want my photographs to inspire people to appreciate nature and take action to protect it.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

Once dawn arrived and the sun started to rise we were greeted by numerous birds coming to drink. They were accompanied by diurnal animals such as baboons, waterhog and zebra.

“Taking an image, freezing a moment, reveals how rich reality truly is.” ~ Anonymous

We usually stayed in the hide until around 10h00. After a 15 minute drive from the hide to the Ewaso Ni’gro river, we crossed the rapidly flowing river in an aluminium “tinny” and then walked back to camp along a sand path for a few hundred metres through a well-wooded section along the river bank to find a wonderful breakfast ready for us.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

Helen and I took the opportunity to visit Shompole in August 2025 with CNP Safaris. The Shompole Conservancy is a large privately operated conservation area in the south of the Great Rift Valley in Kenya. The Shompole Conservancy is nestled between the towering Nguruman & Loita Escarpments, with Lake Magadi to the north and Lake Natron to the south. Both are alkaline lakes which reveal a remarkable vista of red, pink, green and yellow colours.

“Let us step into the night and pursue that flighty temptress, adventure.” ~ Hunter S. Thompson

Shompole Conservancy is located between Maasai Mara National Reserve and Amboseli National Park. It is part of a vital migratory corridor between the two iconic reserves. The Conservancy connects the Loita Hills, Nguruman, and the greater southern Rift ecosystem. The Maasai tribe have pooled their land to ensure unrestricted grazing for their livestock and in the process created a vital migratory corridor which has immense conservation value for wildlife.

Shompole Wilderness Camp is situated on the banks of the Ewaso Ng’iro River, on Shompole Community Land in south western Kenya. The du Toit family (third generation Kenyan) and their local Maasai team manage the camp together. It is an intimate camp with just six tents. The Conservancy is home to over 400 bird species and a surprising diversity of iconic wildlife, including lions, leopards, cheetahs, elephants, giraffes, buffalo, zebra, waterbuck and yellow baboons. The night delivers nocturnally active creatures such as Spotted and Side striped hyaenas, Black-backed jackals, caracals, civets, honey badgers, White-tailed mongooses and wild cats.

The Conservancy has a dry climate. It is hottest in October and November and usually wet in April and May. The flora is adapted to semi-arid conditions so you can see umbrella thorn trees and colourful toothbrush trees. The main source of water is the Ewaso Ng’iro (Brown River) which originates in the Mau forest to the north and flows into Lake Natron. 

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do.” ~ Mark Twain

The Shompole Hides are some of the best ground level wildlife hides in sub Saharan Africa. The hides were conceived and built by Johann du Toit in conjunction with renowned wildlife photographer Will Burrard-Lucas. There are two hides, the Plains hide and Kichaka. The Plains Hide has a large open area surrounding the hide making it ideal for ground level wildlife photography where you can see wildlife approaching from a distance. The second and newest hide is called Kichaka. It is set in more bushy area with thick grass beyond its 30 metre perimeter. This dictates different wildlife behaviour.

“All good things are wild and free.” ~ Henry David Thoreau

The front windows of the hides are open directly onto the waterhole. Each hide can comfortably seat four photographers and a Maasai guide who controls the lights. Each hide had four sets of lights, a bank of lights behind the hide and a bank of lights either side of the hide and a sunken series of lights about 15 metres behind the waterhole for backlighting. The colour and intensity of the lights can also be controlled. The water hole in front of the hides was slightly wider than the hide and stretched about 12 metres in front of the hide. Its depth appeared to be about 25 to 30 cm. With the water lapping the edge of the hide, birds and animals would come within metres of the front of the hide. This created some up close and personal wildlife photography.

A giraffe bull approached the Kichaka hide early in the evening as the last light in the sky was fading creating a wonderful blue cast.

The giraffe were very wary because of the proximity of the grass and bush cover around the hide. Nevertheless after assessment of the safety they eventually bent down to drink.

The wonderful thing about the hides at night is that there is almost no sign that an animal is approaching the waterhole until the lights illuminate it. Each animal approaches very quietly and if you are distracted or snoozing you will miss the shot. This civet came to drink a few times during the evening. Each time it did not make a sound while drinking.

The animals are clearly aware of people inside the hide but electric fans create constant white noise which muffles the sound of people moving inside the hide. In addition, the back lights shine directly into their eyes so they cannot see people or movement inside the hide which is blacked out with no internal light.

“Great photography is about depth of feeling, not depth of field.” ~ Peter Adams

A waterbuck bull approached the waterhole and stood and watched and listened for about five minutes before deciding it was safe to come and drink. Kichaka is a new hide so the wildlife was still getting used to it. One of the features of night time hide wildlife photography was the stillness of the water in the waterhole which provided some wonderful reflections.

A small group of Spotted hyaenas hung around the hide on several occasions for about half an hour each time. This hyaena was highly visible so it was not hunting but just thirsty. It was sniffing the breeze for information, picking up on tiny chemical clues of potential food. In the bone structure of the nose of a hyena is a honeycomb structure about the size of a large marble. It is made of tiny thin platelets. Together they have a huge surface area. As the hyena sniffs air in, the air travels over those platelets, and over the huge number of odour detectors that can fit on their surfaces. The more detectors there are, the greater the chance that an odour molecule will come to rest on one. So the hyena can sift the breeze for information, pick up on tiny chemical clues and use that information to find dinner. (Source: UCL -Animals and their super senses. Dr. Helen Czerski)

I have tried on several occasions in Mashatu and even Zakouma to get good nocturnal shots of a White-tailed mongoose. On the first night at the Kichaka hide a lone White-tailed mongoose came on two occasions to drink from the waterhole in front of the hide and slated its thirst for a few minutes.

“Taking pictures is savouring life intensely, every hundredth of a second.” ~ Marc Riboud

We had several visits from Bat-eared foxes. They were on high alert and every time those radar-like ears picked up a sound they would step back and assess what it was and whether it was a threat.

Once in the hide we were there from 16h00 until 10h00 the next day. We were afforded our preferred drinks and the hide dinners were simplified to reduce noise and clutter. The hide had a toilet and three bunk beds for photographers to sleep. After a busy night and as it got light, a lone spotted hyaena visited the waterhole one last time for a drink and to see if there were any hunting opportunities.

Once it was light and the sun came up the birds came down to drink in large numbers. The morning ritual revealed squadrons of sandgrouse coming in to drink and load their belly feathers with water for their chicks tens of kilometres away.

“Photography takes an instant out of time, altering life by holding it still.” ~ Dorothea Lange

 Yellow-necked spurfowl regularly appeared from the grass surrounds to drink.

Namaqua doves were frequent visitors to the waterhole.

First thing in the morning once the sun began to light up the waterhole many Red-billed firefinches and Cut-throat finches came down to drink. Often they drank on the side of the waterhole only two to three metres from the front of the hide.

A pair of Black-faced sandgrouse also frequently visited the waterhole. They arrived around 8h30 in the morning.

Unlike the other species of sandgrouse the Black-faced sandgrouse would often sit quietly close to the water’s edge and just watch what was going on for five minutes before venturing down to drink.

Small flocks of Chestnut-bellied sandgrouse flying in to drink and fill their belly feathers with water for their chicks many kilometres away.

Plenty of African mourning doves came down to drink at the waterhole first thing in the morning. The grey head and red eye ring and yellow eyes are characteristic.

There is an interesting dynamic that develops in an overnight hide. The first night everyone stays awake for almost all of the night for the fear-of-missing out (FOMO). All the photographers have to be dead quiet as the animals can hear you. Giraffe will pick up the sound of your clothes rustling which will cause them to stand up and walk away from the waterhole to assess whether the noise signalled a threat.

“Photography helps people to see.” ~ Berenice Abbott

This was the first time I had spent overnight in a wildlife photographic hide. It is a unique experience and one in which you can photograph wildlife, especially nocturnally active wildlife, very close. On occasions bull elephants were 12 metres away and a pride of lions drank six metres from the front of the hide.

“Wildlife photography is more than just taking pictures. It is about connecting with nature and understanding the beauty of the natural world.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

The next two posts will show a variety of mammal and bird images taken from the Plain’s hide.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

This is the last post from our Pafuri trip in May 2025. Unfortunately the camp was affected by the recent heavy rains in the Kruger Park in January 2026 and it had to be closed. According to Return Africa, the Pafuri Camp will reopen on 1 June 2026, allowing sufficient time to complete repairs and ensure that all infrastructure is restored to their high standards. Return Africa’s CEO reported that as the waters of the Luvuvhu continue to recede and the floodplain is recovering. New growth is visible everywhere, reminding us that renewal is intrinsic to this landscape.

“Live quietly in the moment and see the beauty of all before you. The future will take care of itself.” ~ Paramahansa Yoganandar

The view that greeted us each morning around 6h00 after we had finished a cup of coffee and made our way to the game vehicle for our next adventure brimming with expectation.

“And I think to myself, what a wonderful world.“ ~ Louis Armstrong

The morning game drive and breakfast usually finished around 10h30-11h00 depending on what we had seen or encountered on the drive. Back at our tented room it was time to relax and download the morning’s images. There was always wildlife activity along and in the river during the day. On this occasion a lone old buffalo bull was slowly making his way up the section of the Luvuvhu river in front of the camp. We knew there were plenty of massive crocodiles in the river, we had seen them, but it did not seem to faze this ‘old bull’.

Having located something worth eating he eventually walked onto a sandbank, across a narrow channel of water and up the bank to start grazing on the other bank. These ‘old dagga boys’ usually move around with a few companions for protection but for some reason this character was on his own and seemed to stay close to the camp.

Each day, looking down the Luvuvhu river from camp we saw a herd of elephants drinking down at the bend in the river. Sometimes they crossed and sometimes they just played in the water for a while. Then just as quickly as they appeared the herd disappeared back into the bush to feed.

I am not sure whether it was always the same herd as the numbers varied from day to day but there were plenty of youngsters which is always a good sign.

“Spending money on travel is not an expense but an investment in experiences that yield joy, growth, and lasting memories.” ~ Anonymous

At night, if you are lucky, you may hear a Pels Fishing owl call from the huge trees on the far side bank of the Luvuvhu river but during the day you are assured to see the resident pairs of fish eagles. They often called from the large trees on the far bank. In my view, the Luvuvhu river provides an iconic African vista, which combined with fish eagles calling will send shivers down your spine.

Often we would see one of the pair of resident Fish eagles perched in a prominent position overlooking the river while the other member of the pair was climbing in a thermal very high above the river. They would often call to each other too.

Generally, the adult male Nile crocodile is between 3.5m and 5 m in length and weighs 225 to 750 kg. However, specimens exceeding 6.1 m in length and 1,000 kg in weight have been recorded. The largest accurately measured male, shot near Mwanza, Tanzania, measured 6.45 m and weighed about 1,043–1,089 kg. The largest living Nile crocodile seen is Gustave who lives on the Burundi shore section of Lake Tanganyika and is estimated to be around 6.1 m in length.

The Nile crocodiles, of which there were many, often climbed onto a sandbank to warm themselves. The croc in front was massive. During the first three to four years, the young increase in length by about 30 cm per year. The growth rate then gradually decreases, but growth can continue throughout life.

The Nile Crocodile can live up to between 40 – 60 years in the wild. The sex of crocodile hatchlings is determined by the temperature at which the eggs incubate. At 30^oC or less they will be mostly female; at 31^oC they will be mixed; and at 32^oC, they will be mostly male.

Some of the best reasons why it is not a good idea to try and wade across the water channels in the Luvuvhu river.

Nile monitors grow to about 100–140 cm (maximum 200 cm) in length (including tail); they have a stout body and powerful limbs and strong claws. Like all monitors they have a forked tongue. Their skin is tough and covered with small, bead-like scales.

This species of monitor prefers to lay its eggs in termite mounds, the female tears open the nest, particularly in the rainy season when the walls are soft, and deposits up to 60 eggs without attempting to cover them. The ants quickly seal up the nest. Under fairly constant temperature (around 25^oC ) and humidity, the unattended eggs are incubated over a period of 6 to 9 months before hatching. (Source: Science Direct.com).

According to SANBI, Nile monitors are carnivores with an almost insatiable appetite, they are renowned for eating just about anything they can overpower or find as carrion. Consequently, their diet includes everything from arthropods, amphibians and fish, to birds, small mammals and other reptiles. Hunting strategies vary, but it is rare for the Nile monitor to shy away from a challenge.

At around 6h00 one morning while having coffee just before going out on a morning game drive some guests came running to tell us that a Pel Fishing owl was perched in full view on a low branch overhanging the river on the opposite side of the river to their tent.

“We do not know the true value of our moments until they have undergone the test of memory.” ~ Georges Duhamel

I have seen Pels Fishing owls each time I have been to Pafuri but never seen them in full view like this. It was at least 100 metres away but wonderful to see it in the open. This is the second largest owl species in southern Africa. Its ginger-rufous plumage and large round head make it instantly recognisable. It lives near rivers and lakes, and feeds nocturnally on fish and frogs foraged from the surface of lakes and rivers. The species prefers to roost in and hunt from large trees with branches overhanging trees a slow-moving river.

Back in camp after a productive afternoon’s game drive we would have a drink on the deck overlooking the Luvuvhu river to enjoy the beauty of the last rays of sunlight over the riverine scene. This image was taken looking west up the Luvuvhu river towards the sun just after it had dipped below the horizon.

“Life is short. Kiss slowly, laugh insanely, love truly and forgive quickly.” ~ Paulo Coelho

One evening after the day faded and darkness fell and we had finished our drinks on the deck and were just on our way to dinner, the staff called us to come over and see a pair of Thick-tailed bushbabies in the tree above the buffet area. They seemed quite relaxed and not perturbed by the human activity below them.

After dinner we usually stopped next to the fire for a cup of coffee to listen to all the night sounds. Lions roaring in the south in Kruger Park, hyaenas whopping and Wood owls in the trees among the tents. If you are lucky you might even hear a Pels Fishing owl calling from the far side river bank. There was the occasional jackal yelping, cackling and barking, and baboons creating a raucous as they were settling into arboreal bedrooms for the night.

“Our lives are composed of a finite set of moments that we choose how to spend.” ~ John Green

Pafuri Tented Camp is one of our favourite places to stay in South Africa. The camp, being located on the banks of the Luvuvhu river, offers wonderful views of the river and the massive trees that line its banks during the daylight hours. The camp is very comfortable and the staff friendly and hospitable. The two game drives a day, in the morning and afternoon, provide iconic scenes all the Luvuvhu and Limpopo rivers, baobabs, diverse ecosystems and the birding is excellent. It does not offer the big five but we have long ago moved beyond that marketing catch phrase. This is considered one of the three top birding locations in South Africa.

“Cherish your visions and your dreams, as they are the children of your soul; the blueprints of your ultimate achievements.” ~ Napoleon Hill

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

We spent three mornings at Reedbuck Pan in the Maluleke Concession in the Pafuri section in the north of the Kruger Park. Each morning provided unexpected opportunities for different types of wildlife photographs from great bird interactions to wonderful saturated colours across the pan to dazzling reflections on the pan’s water surface.

“The vibration of being who you are and doing what you love is magnetic. You will align everything you need in your life with that energy.” ~ Maryam Hasnaa

As is normally the case on South African game drives, the morning drive has an early start preferably heading out at first light after a cup of hot coffee and a rusk. On the east side of the Pafuri Tented Camp is a rocky ridge with a few baobab trees. They make a wonderful silhouette with the saturated pre-dawn sky in the background.

It takes about an hour to drive east from the camp to the Reeduck Pan. By the time we arrived the sun had risen but the low angle of light cast long reflections of the fever trees across the mirror-like water surface of the pan. Early in the morning the quality of the light is superb. The direction of the light was just right, the colour of the light saturated with the sparkle from the early morning golden colours and light was soft with no specular harshness.

The pan by its nature is shallow and the banks relatively flat which gives plenty of room for waders to wander along the waterline. It also gives us ample opportunity to see crocodiles trying to sneak up on us while we are distracted taking photographs.

The intriguing aspect about this pan is that there is so much birdlife it is hard to focus on one thing. On the bend in the bank closest to where we stopped for coffee there was a Goliath heron, Grey heron, Yellow-billed stork and Three-banded plover all close to each other and quite relaxed.

“You didn’t come into this world. You came out of it, like a wave on the ocean.” ~ Alan Watts

As I showed in two previous posts, a pair of African fish eagles were aggressively territorial taking on a lone Goliath heron and solitary Great white pelican. The attacks were just intimidation and no one got injured.

I found it quite amazing that the Fish eagle would take on a large bird like a Great white pelican especially with its long beak and extended reach. The Fish eagles harassed herons, storks and pelicans alike.

“Do you have the patience to wait until the mud settles and the water is clear?” ~ Lao Tzu

A quiet moment for the lone Goliath heron the far side of the pan. This heron wisely decided to hunt close to fallen tree trunks which he could duck to avert a Fish eagle attack. Whilst I am sure the crocs do try to catch the herons, on this occasion a small croc was content to warm up in the morning sun on the fallen tree trunk.

There were plenty of Nile crocodiles in the pan and at times we got see a few basking in the morning sun on the far side of the pan. This was a good reminder to be alert and not get to close to the water’s edge.

Surprisingly, we saw a medium size croc try to bite into a terrapin but with little luck. Eventually, the croc dropped the terrapin into the water after trying numerous times to bite and try and crack its shell. The terrapin seemed none the worse for wear after its abuse.

We were joined one morning, while we were enjoying a cup of coffee and a muffin, by this juvenile Kittlitz’s plover which was hunting for insects at the water’s edge.

The adult Kittlitz’s plover in breeding colours has a more distinctive plumage with a peach coloured breast black band across its forehead down behind its eyes onto its nape.

We saw numerous Three-banded plovers dashing along the water’s edge hunting for small insects. Its two black bands across its breast are diagnostic as are its red eye rings and red beak with a black tip. It was a little more difficult to get good reflections of these small plovers.

A Blacksmith lapwing was also very busy looking for food. This species will feed on a wide variety of small aquatic and terrestrial invertebrates, including insects (beetles, ants, larvae), worms, molluscs, and crustaceans.

“Water is the mirror of nature.” ~ Francis of Assisi

The main reason for this post was to show familiar waders in unfamiliar light and colour created by the light reflected off the fever trees.

Although the reflections do create an element of distraction, the colours and in the patterns in the water were fascinating. This Grey heron stood motionless in the shallow water of the pan for quite a while. It must have seen a fish and waited for it to swim within striking range.

The crocs showed no appetite for the herons in the pan. At this point the croc was in very shallow water so could not submerge for a stealthy attack. The only time I have seen crocodiles try to catch water birds was in the Salamat river in Zakouma National Park in Chad.

There was plenty of food in the pan for everyone which is why there were colonies of breeding herons and storks in the fever trees in the pan. The pink tinge in the Yellow-billed stork’s secondaries indicated that it was in full breeding plumage.

“No one can see their reflection in running water. It is only in still water that we can see.” ~ Taoist Proverb

A small flock of African spoonbills flew in to scour the pan for food. They frantically swept their unusual spoonbills through the water trying to catch edibles such as small fish, crustaceans (like shrimp), mollusks, aquatic insects, larvae, and frogs.

“Forget not that the earth delights to feel your bare feet and the winds long to play with your hair.” ~ Khalil Gibran

The inside of the spoon-shaped bill is packed with nerve endings and vibration-sensitive receptors, often referred to as papillae. Instead of relying on sight, spoonbills locate prey by touch. They sweep their partially opened bills from side to side through shallow water and mud to detect movement. When a Spoonbill feels a creature—such as a small fish, crustacean, or insect—touch its bill, the beak snaps shut in milliseconds. This extreme sensitivity allows them to feed effectively in murky, dark, or deep, muddy water where visibility is low.

One of the pair of African fish eagles that seemed to delight in harassing waders in the shallows of the pan. The Fish eagle’s tactics did not deter the waders, the latter just moved to another area of the pan.

Another example of a familiar wader in unfamiliar light. A Little egret foraging in the shallows of the pan bathed in a kaleidoscope of soft reflected colours.

A silhouette of a Little egret foraging in the golden morning light reflected on the water’s surface.

Same subject with a different angle and different light.

The colours reflected on the water’s surface of the pan changed the familiar into a magical wonderland of colour.

“Come forth into the light of things, let nature be your teacher.” ~ William Wordsworth

This post was designed to show similar wader birds in unusual early morning reflected light. Such is the magical time based quality of photography. The quality of light, the low angle and reflections are ever changing. The stillness of the water enhanced the quality of the reflections and the vivid colours of the fever trees in the background illuminated the reflections.

“We carry inside us the wonders we seek outside us.” ~ Rumi

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

Helen and I stayed at Pafuri tented camp last May. Thankfully not during the recent devastating floods in Kruger, and in the Pafuri area. The Pafuri section is the biodiverse northernmost part of Kruger National Park. It is well known for famous for its diverse landscapes (fever tree forests, riverine habitats), exceptional birdwatching (Pel’s Fishing Owl and Racket-tailed rollers), and the confluence of the Limpopo & Luvuvhu rivers at Crook’s Corner, where three countries (South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique) meet.

“I have always been delighted at the prospect of a new day, a fresh try, one more start, with perhaps a bit of magic waiting somewhere behind the morning.” ~ J. B. Priestley

We enjoyed morning and afternoon game drives. One morning game drive took us to Reedbuck pan in the Maluleke Concession. This is a stunningly beautiful pan situated at the edge of a large fever tree forest. The pan is usually filled by a combination of rainwater runoff and back flow from the Luvuvhu river which meets the Limpopo river at Crook’s corner. When the level of the Limpopo river rises the higher water levels cause a back flow up the Luvuvhu river. The back flow, at times, extends and floods the fever tree forest and surrounding area including the pans.

The pans are a magnet for bird life especially water birds such as storks, herons, egrets, lapwings, plovers and ducks and a pair of African fish eagles.

On the first morning we arrived at the pan it was around 7h00 and was bathed in golden morning light from the east which resulted in vivid reflections in the still water of the pan. There was a lot of activity with heronries in the trees and egrets, herons and storks flying back and forth with food for chicks and building material for new nests. Amongst all the aerial activity, we found a solitary Goliath heron stealthily walking in the shallow water of the pan.

We had seen a pair of fish eagles in the fever trees but they quietly perched high up in the tree watching the goings on. All of sudden from behind us one fish eagle swooped down close to the water aiming directly at the Goliath heron.

African Fish Eagles are known to frequently steal food from Goliath Herons in behaviour known as kleptoparasitism. Fish Eagles are opportunistic predators that often wait for the much larger Goliath Heron to catch a large fish (such as catfish or lungfish), then swoop down to harass the heron into dropping or regurgitating its meal.

While Goliath herons are the world’s largest, standing up to 5 feet tall, they are often forced to surrender a percentage of their catch to faster, aggressive raptors.

In this instance, the Goliath heron did not have a fish in its beak so this attack was not kleptoparasitism but rather a territorial imperative where the Fish eagles did not want competition for their main food source, being the fish in the pan.

“Nature is full for us of seeing inconsistencies and glad surprises” Margaret Barker

Not done with its intimidation tactics, the Fish eagle did a low level swoop to try again. Although these eagles are persistent, they do not always succeed. Goliath herons are known to fight back, and in some instances, have successfully defended their catch. The Goliath heron has a serious weapon in the form of its large sharp beak which its uses as an effective spear. The Goliath heron did not fight back but moved closer to a group of partly submerged branches from a fallen tree.

The Goliath heron ducked its head and body into the water between the fallen branches. That way the Fish eagle could not get its talons close enough to do any damage.

Studies indicate that Goliath herons lose roughly 11% of their fish catches to these “fish-pirates”. We visited this pan every day for the next two days because of all the bird activity. The Fish eagle pair did not succeed in chasing the Goliath heron away from the pan. Needless to say, the Goliath heron chose its fishing spots more carefully where it had more protection than the open water.

The pan turned out to be action packed. The Fish eagle pair flew around the pan intimidating the Yellow-billed storks and Grey and Black-headed herons as they were flying to and from their nests to the area surrounding the pan. At times it looked like the Fish eagles were having great fun.

“Animals are part of every landscape, part of the symphony of interactions that create an ecosystem, but too much of our science is siloed into looking at all these living things in isolation from each other.” ~ Kristin Ohlsen

The last morning we visited Reedbuck pan we saw a Great White pelican on the far side of the pan. We did not see it fly into the pan which can usually provide spectacular shots as they land by skiing across the water on their large webbed feet to land on the water and so sufficiently to land on their bellies and tuck their wings in. We were surprised to see a lone Great White pelican as they are often seen in small flocks as they are co-operative feeders. Great White pelicans are highly social, cooperative feeders which frequently fish in groups, using coordinated, team-based strategies to maximize their prey catch, particularly in shallow waters. 

The Fish eagle pair took turns to intimidate this Great White pelican. The size difference was noticeable but the Fish eagle’s lesser size was amply made up for by its aggression.

A Great White pelican is a large water bird, standing  up to 180cm and it has a wingspan of 226cm to 360cm and can weigh up to 15kgs, making it one of the world’s largest flying birds. It is also clearly distinguished by its long beak with a large, pale gular pouch. Males are generally larger and heavier than females, with a beak up to 47 cm long. 

“Nature’s imagination far exceeds humanity’s.” ~ Richard Feynman

The Fish eagle’s attacked from above swooping down on the hapless pelican which made itself look bigger by opening its wings and its large beak.

Fish eagles are known to attack Great White pelicans for the purposes of kleptoparasitism not predation. The pelican usually catches larger fish which makes the attack more cost effective for the Fish eagle.

The Fish eagle aimed to grab the pelican’s beak with one of its talons and managed to briefly hold onto the end of the pelican’s beak.

It was interesting so see how much the pelican’s beak bent under the weight of the fish eagle’s attack. No damage appeared to have been done during the attack.

Like the Goliath heron, the Great White pelican remained at the pan. The Fish eagle’s intimidation tactics did not work.

There were plenty of crocodiles in the pan and with all the waterbirds attracted to the pan we assumed there must have been good fishing for all the reptiles and birds involved. The fever trees provided some wonderful perches from which to look for fish and stage attacks on unwary pelicans and herons, especially those with fish in their beaks.

The Pafuri area in Kruger National Park was significantly affected by the January 2026 flooding, leading to the closure of the Pafuri Gate, road closures due to submerged bridges and overflowing rivers (especially the Luvuvhu), and precautionary evacuations of camps like Pafuri Camp. Reports suggest areas further south experienced even greater damage, with the floods inundating floodplains and cutting off access. 

“We inhabit a water planet, and unless we protect, manage, and restore that resource, the future will be a very different place from the one we imagine today.” ~ Alexandra Cousteau

Reedbuck pan was highly productive from a birding and bird photography point of view. The recent devastating rains and flooding in the Limpopo and Pafuri area have destroyed many of the roads but once the water levels subside I have no doubt the birding and photograph around this pan will be even better than before.

“To find the universal elements enough; to find the air and the water exhilarating; to be refreshed by a morning walk or an evening saunter… to be thrilled by the stars at night; to be elated over a bird’s nest or a wildflower in spring — these are some of the rewards of the simple life.” ~ John Burroughs

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

After a long break I am looking forward to getting back to sharing my wildlife experiences and knowledge I have gained along the way.

When visiting Kruger Park, Helen and I usually stay at either Sabi River Sun resort near Hazyview or Pine Lake resort just outside White river in Mpumalanga. The quickest access in the Kruger Park from the Sabi River Sun resort is via the Phabeni gate. This post shows some of the birds we saw on our rain soaked drive along the S1 from Phabeni gate to Skukuza camp.

“Expectations imprison the soul, break free and witness the extraordinary unfold in the simplicity of the present.” ~ anonymous

Quite by chance as we were driving along in light rain we saw a Green pigeon fly into a bush ahead of us next to the road. We stopped and to our amazement there was a small flock of Green pigeons feeding on berries on that bush. These pigeons prefer riparian forests, woodlands, and savannas.

All pigeons have beautiful coloured plumage but the Green pigeon especially so. They have bright orange/red legs and feet; their thighs are covered with vibrant yellow feathers; the bottom part of their body and the head and neck area are greyish green in colour; the back and tail has a more olive green to yellowish green colour; and finally, you will see their white eyes and their bright red and white beak. This species of pigeon feed on fruits, berries and figs. They are particularly acrobatic when feeding and clambour around the branches like parrots to access the fruit and berries.

A little further along the tarred road we came across a somewhat bedraggled adult Tawny eagle perched on top of a dead tree stump. It was keenly surveying the surrounding area for food. It’s crop was not extended so it was probably hungry after not being able to hunt during the rain.

The Tawny eagle is a medium sized eagle but its plumage is highly variable. Its plumage can vary from dark brown, mid-brown, a creamy rufous to almost white. It has a yellow lined gape which stops below the centre of the eye, which is diagnostic. This species of eagle has a highly varied diet which ranges from small mammals (rodents, hares and very young antelope), birds such as francolins and hornbills. It will happily feed on a termite emergence but is also an adept scavenger at predator kills and road kill.

“Rainy days can bring surprises and in the bush it never dampens our spirit.” ~ Mike Haworth

We encountered a lot of rain in the early part of the drive. I always try to get into the park at opening times to get the best light but on this occasion it was overcast and drizzling. Unless it is a downpour the birds are still out and about in the light rain. The birds just have to cope with it. This African Long -tailed shrike retracted its neck and lowered its head onto it shoulders to reduce the rain ingress on its neck. Due to its black and white coloured plumage it is also called the Magpie shrike.

This species prefers the open savanna where it can hunt from a perch. You can often find this species in a gregarious group calling to each other. Most prey is caught on the ground, but flying insects are sometimes caught in mid air. The diet consists of arthropods, insects, lizards, small mammals and fruit.

Being mid summer in southern Africa, the migrants had come down for the warmer climes and greater abundance of food. This European roller was perched on top of the remains of a dead shrub. This species is also a perch hunter so prefers the bushveld, woodlands and grasslands with scattered trees in the warmer lowland areas where there are plenty of insects, small reptiles and frogs on which to feed.

Like all the rollers this species is strikingly coloured and immediately recognisable in the bush. Its body and underwings are a powder blue with a wide edge to its primaries and secondaries which is an electric blue. It has an orange-brown rufous back and an electric blue rump. Birdlife South African using pioneering satellite technology has shown this species can fly along the east coast of Africa from South Africa to middle Asia in a migratory journey of over 12 000 kms one way.

“When rain speaks, it tells stories only quiet hearts can hear.” ~ anonymous

After the rain many birds perched in the warmth when the blue sky was starting to break through the clouds. Although slightly smaller than the Mosque swallow, this Red-breasted swallow was perched on a flimsy stick and needed to balance itself in the light breeze. It has brick red underparts and dark blue upper parts. This species is also a summer visitor which has migrated south for the abundance of insects.

This species of swallow breeds in southern Africa constructing a closed mud nesting chamber with a long tubular mud tunnel. It prefers the open woodland areas where it can hawk insects in flight.

Another bedraggled raptor due to the rain. This is a white morph Wahlberg’s eagle. Like Tawny’s, the Wahlberg’s plumage can be highly variable from the common brown plumage to a dark brown morph and also a pale morph where its head and neck is mainly creamy white with blackish streaks on the crown and around the eye. This eagle is also a summer visitor from North Africa to feed and breed. The mating pair of Wahlberg’s eagle will hunt together cooperatively.

“Rain conjures possibility, unlocking doors patience alone could not open.” ~ anonymous

This is a small eagle with a distinctive crest at the back of its small head It has a small beak with a large gape. Its relatively small beak size is suited to its diet which is mainly reptiles such as snakes and lizards, small mammals like squirrels, mongooses and hares, and small birds. It will also feed on insects such as termites, grasshoppers and beetles.

I have thousands of Lilac-breasted roller shots but cannot resist taking photographs of these gorgeous rollers in the bush. This particular roller had caught an insect and was clambering up a dead tree stump to its mate.

The pair of Lilac breasted rollers perched on to top of the dead tree trunk for quite a while. Since this species is not sexually dimorphic, it was difficult to tell the male and female apart. I assumed from the behaviour of the lower partner offering the insect to the higher partner that he was a male. For some reason when the (supposed) female bent down to take the offering the male would not give it to her. He eventually ate it, flew off and caught another insect which he proceeded to feed on himself.

” Sharing strengthens bonds. For humanity it is the root of civilisation.” ~ Mike Haworth

This particular journey was filled with migrants. As we were driving back from Skukuza toward Pretoriuskop there is a open grassland area with numerous dry small bush stumps. We saw three Jacobin cuckoos in this area. The Jacobin cuckoo can be identified by its black upper parts and white underparts and the small somewhat scraggy crest on the back of its head. The Striped cuckoo looks similar but has dark stripes on its white breast

Jacobin cuckoos prefer savanna and woodland habitats where they can find plentiful caterpillars. Like most cuckoos this species is a brood parasite primarily targeting bulbuls (like Cape, Red-eyed, and Dark-capped Bulbuls) and shrikes (like the Common Fiscal) in southern Africa.

On our way on the S3 gravel road from Pretoriuskop to Phabeni, we stopped when we heard a distinctive cuckoo call. It is very difficult to tell the difference between an African and Common Cuckoo. Two factors made me think it was an African cuckoo. The first was that distinctive cuckoo call (but not as distinctive as the Common Cuckoo) and the second was the large orange yellow base to its beak.

This was a first for me as they are usually so hard to see and more often only heard. This individual flew from its open perch to a well wooded branch where it was much better camouflaged. It remained dead still for ages, so needless to say I took many images mostly in the same position. The African cuckoo brood parasites a wide variety of small birds, with common hosts including weavers, bishops, warblers, sparrows, sunbirds, and robins.

We did not get to see many mammals due to the rain and thick lush vegetation but the birdlife was certainly on show. For many of the cars following us along the road, when we stopped to view and photograph a bird, passersby would ask us what we were looking at, when we said we were looking at a bird, most cars quickly moved off as many tourists seem to want to see the big mammals, not these interesting birds.

“Often the best way to find birds in the bush is to listen. The ears can often locate better than the eyes.” ~ Mike Haworth

Listening for birds can be as important as seeing them. Often, once you hear a bird you can usually pinpoint its location and with a little searching you can see it.

“One who listens learns, and one who learns listens.” ~ Matshona Dhliwayo

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

When entering the Kruger Park through the Phabeni or Numbi gates we usually stop in at the Pretoriuskop rest camp for fuel and to wander around with a camera. We have found the birding to be highly productive in this rest camp.

Often some of the best sightings are on the lawn next to the rest camp reception. Across the drive in front of the reception is a lawn with trees behind the fuel station.

“You must give everything to make your life as beautiful as the dreams that dance in your imagination.” ~ Roman Payne

A juvenile Southern black flycatcher landed on the lawn in front of me to grab an insect it had seen. This juvenile still had its fawn coloured spots on its head and neck and a few of its coverts. When fully mature this flycatcher will be entirely black.

While Helen was making a cup of coffee I strolled across the driveway onto the lawn in front of the reception only to see a female Violet-backed starling foraging for insects in the grass.

This was an exciting find because the female is usually paired with the male. While the female has striking plumage the male has exquisite amethyst or iridescent purple upper parts which includes his chin, throat and wings. He has a black throat band and his beast and belly are white. As hard as I tried I could not see the male.

While wandering around the same section of lawn I heard the distinct sound of a woodpecker hammering at a wooden branch. After a bit of scouting I found this female Cardinal woodpecker digging earnestly among the lichen on a branch high up in a tree.

A female Cardinal Woodpecker has white underparts which are heavily streaked. She has a white face and black crown, forehead and nape. Unlike the male’s red hind crown and nape, the female has a fully dark top of her head. This female seemed unperturbed by the presence of a Woodland kingfisher. In recent years we have seen a pair of Woodland kingfishers nesting in a hole in the trunk of a figtree opposite the reception office.

By now we were enjoying a cup of coffee and a hot cross bun and sitting on the benches in the lawn adjacent to the reception. By sitting quietly we saw a wonderful select of birds. One visitor was a Southern black tit in a tree above the reception office. This species of tit is all black except for its white shoulders, white edgings to the wing feathers, and a barred gray-and-white undertail. Ebird accurately indicates this species is often detected by its noisy buzzing and chirping vocalizations, including a sweet-and-scratchy “diddy-dzee-dzee-dzee-dzee-dzee.”

“When I sit quietly I hear nature’s symphony. Then a single bird’s song stands out calling for attention. That is when you know what to look for.” ~ Mike Haworth

As the bird sighting were getting better and better, a chattering family of Retz’s helmet-shrikes arrived and noisily darted in and out of the trees above us. This species of helmet-shrike is often seen in this area and it has a distinctive black plumage with a red-orange eye wattle and yellow eye. Its beak and legs are a bright red colour.

The Retz’s helmet-shrike has white under tail coverts and its under tail feathers are white. When not in breeding season the gregarious helmet-shrike groups can become much larger than five or six members and the group sometimes includes White helmet-shrikes.

Just when we thought it could not get better a male Bearded woodpecker arrived in the tree in front of us. He gave us a sustained display while energetically searching for grubs in holes in tree branches and grubs under the bark.

The male Bearded woodpecker has a black forehead with white spots and a red hind crown and black nape. Its underparts are fine fawn bars on a grey background. The female looks similar to the male but has a black hind crown.

The Bearded woodpecker is noticeably larger than the Cardinal woodpecker.

“Sometimes the woodpecker will show up just to stimulate new rhythms. Rhythm is a powerful means of affecting the physical energies” ~ Ted Andrews

The red eye of the Bearded woodpecker is noticeable in the next image. Generally because this species of woodpecker is usually under a branch in the shade you do not notice its red eye.

In the trees behind the reception office we heard the distinct call of an Orange-breasted bushshrike. Its call sounds like ” coffee-tea-or-meeeee”.

This species of bushshrike has a striking grey crown, nape and cheeks. It has green upper parts. It has a striking yellow eyebrow and forehead, yellow neck and yellow underparts with a vibrant orange breast. Its eyes and lores are black.

After a productive and fun hour watching all the birds around us at Pretoriuskop rest camp we decided to head out and wander around the sand roads in the park outside the rest camp. Being February we were lucky enough to get a good sighting of an Amur falcon. This diminutive species of falcon migrates from its breeding grounds in Siberia and northern China to their wintering grounds in Southern and East Africa. Their migratory journey involves a spectacular mass migration across India and a non-stop flight over the Arabian Sea to Africa, covering a distance of about 22,000 km. 

“Migratory birds connect people, ecosystems and nations. They are symbols of peace and of an interconnected planet.” ~ Antonio Guterres

Visiting Pretoriuskop rest camp has always been productive from a birding perspective. We often see Green pigeons, Purple crested turacos and if we are lucky enough Brown-headed parrots. The Drongos, Groundscraper thrushes are always around as are a selection of Glossy starlings.

“The key to a wonderful life is to never stop wandering into wonder.” ~ Suzy Kassem

I have no doubt if we spent a many hours wandering around the grounds of this rest camp we would see many more species. This part of the Kruger park is highly productive from a birding and bird photography perspective.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike