After a long break I am looking forward to getting back to sharing my wildlife experiences and knowledge I have gained along the way.

When visiting Kruger Park, Helen and I usually stay at either Sabi River Sun resort near Hazyview or Pine Lake resort just outside White river in Mpumalanga. The quickest access in the Kruger Park from the Sabi River Sun resort is via the Phabeni gate. This post shows some of the birds we saw on our rain soaked drive along the S1 from Phabeni gate to Skukuza camp.

“Expectations imprison the soul, break free and witness the extraordinary unfold in the simplicity of the present.” ~ anonymous

Quite by chance as we were driving along in light rain we saw a Green pigeon fly into a bush ahead of us next to the road. We stopped and to our amazement there was a small flock of Green pigeons feeding on berries on that bush. These pigeons prefer riparian forests, woodlands, and savannas.

All pigeons have beautiful coloured plumage but the Green pigeon especially so. They have bright orange/red legs and feet; their thighs are covered with vibrant yellow feathers; the bottom part of their body and the head and neck area are greyish green in colour; the back and tail has a more olive green to yellowish green colour; and finally, you will see their white eyes and their bright red and white beak. This species of pigeon feed on fruits, berries and figs. They are particularly acrobatic when feeding and clambour around the branches like parrots to access the fruit and berries.

A little further along the tarred road we came across a somewhat bedraggled adult Tawny eagle perched on top of a dead tree stump. It was keenly surveying the surrounding area for food. It’s crop was not extended so it was probably hungry after not being able to hunt during the rain.

The Tawny eagle is a medium sized eagle but its plumage is highly variable. Its plumage can vary from dark brown, mid-brown, a creamy rufous to almost white. It has a yellow lined gape which stops below the centre of the eye, which is diagnostic. This species of eagle has a highly varied diet which ranges from small mammals (rodents, hares and very young antelope), birds such as francolins and hornbills. It will happily feed on a termite emergence but is also an adept scavenger at predator kills and road kill.

“Rainy days can bring surprises and in the bush it never dampens our spirit.” ~ Mike Haworth

We encountered a lot of rain in the early part of the drive. I always try to get into the park at opening times to get the best light but on this occasion it was overcast and drizzling. Unless it is a downpour the birds are still out and about in the light rain. The birds just have to cope with it. This African Long -tailed shrike retracted its neck and lowered its head onto it shoulders to reduce the rain ingress on its neck. Due to its black and white coloured plumage it is also called the Magpie shrike.

This species prefers the open savanna where it can hunt from a perch. You can often find this species in a gregarious group calling to each other. Most prey is caught on the ground, but flying insects are sometimes caught in mid air. The diet consists of arthropods, insects, lizards, small mammals and fruit.

Being mid summer in southern Africa, the migrants had come down for the warmer climes and greater abundance of food. This European roller was perched on top of the remains of a dead shrub. This species is also a perch hunter so prefers the bushveld, woodlands and grasslands with scattered trees in the warmer lowland areas where there are plenty of insects, small reptiles and frogs on which to feed.

Like all the rollers this species is strikingly coloured and immediately recognisable in the bush. Its body and underwings are a powder blue with a wide edge to its primaries and secondaries which is an electric blue. It has an orange-brown rufous back and an electric blue rump. Birdlife South African using pioneering satellite technology has shown this species can fly along the east coast of Africa from South Africa to middle Asia in a migratory journey of over 12 000 kms one way.

“When rain speaks, it tells stories only quiet hearts can hear.” ~ anonymous

After the rain many birds perched in the warmth when the blue sky was starting to break through the clouds. Although slightly smaller than the Mosque swallow, this Red-breasted swallow was perched on a flimsy stick and needed to balance itself in the light breeze. It has brick red underparts and dark blue upper parts. This species is also a summer visitor which has migrated south for the abundance of insects.

This species of swallow breeds in southern Africa constructing a closed mud nesting chamber with a long tubular mud tunnel. It prefers the open woodland areas where it can hawk insects in flight.

Another bedraggled raptor due to the rain. This is a white morph Wahlberg’s eagle. Like Tawny’s, the Wahlberg’s plumage can be highly variable from the common brown plumage to a dark brown morph and also a pale morph where its head and neck is mainly creamy white with blackish streaks on the crown and around the eye. This eagle is also a summer visitor from North Africa to feed and breed. The mating pair of Wahlberg’s eagle will hunt together cooperatively.

“Rain conjures possibility, unlocking doors patience alone could not open.” ~ anonymous

This is a small eagle with a distinctive crest at the back of its small head It has a small beak with a large gape. Its relatively small beak size is suited to its diet which is mainly reptiles such as snakes and lizards, small mammals like squirrels, mongooses and hares, and small birds. It will also feed on insects such as termites, grasshoppers and beetles.

I have thousands of Lilac-breasted roller shots but cannot resist taking photographs of these gorgeous rollers in the bush. This particular roller had caught an insect and was clambering up a dead tree stump to its mate.

The pair of Lilac breasted rollers perched on to top of the dead tree trunk for quite a while. Since this species is not sexually dimorphic, it was difficult to tell the male and female apart. I assumed from the behaviour of the lower partner offering the insect to the higher partner that he was a male. For some reason when the (supposed) female bent down to take the offering the male would not give it to her. He eventually ate it, flew off and caught another insect which he proceeded to feed on himself.

” Sharing strengthens bonds. For humanity it is the root of civilisation.” ~ Mike Haworth

This particular journey was filled with migrants. As we were driving back from Skukuza toward Pretoriuskop there is a open grassland area with numerous dry small bush stumps. We saw three Jacobin cuckoos in this area. The Jacobin cuckoo can be identified by its black upper parts and white underparts and the small somewhat scraggy crest on the back of its head. The Striped cuckoo looks similar but has dark stripes on its white breast

Jacobin cuckoos prefer savanna and woodland habitats where they can find plentiful caterpillars. Like most cuckoos this species is a brood parasite primarily targeting bulbuls (like Cape, Red-eyed, and Dark-capped Bulbuls) and shrikes (like the Common Fiscal) in southern Africa.

On our way on the S3 gravel road from Pretoriuskop to Phabeni, we stopped when we heard a distinctive cuckoo call. It is very difficult to tell the difference between an African and Common Cuckoo. Two factors made me think it was an African cuckoo. The first was that distinctive cuckoo call (but not as distinctive as the Common Cuckoo) and the second was the large orange yellow base to its beak.

This was a first for me as they are usually so hard to see and more often only heard. This individual flew from its open perch to a well wooded branch where it was much better camouflaged. It remained dead still for ages, so needless to say I took many images mostly in the same position. The African cuckoo brood parasites a wide variety of small birds, with common hosts including weavers, bishops, warblers, sparrows, sunbirds, and robins.

We did not get to see many mammals due to the rain and thick lush vegetation but the birdlife was certainly on show. For many of the cars following us along the road, when we stopped to view and photograph a bird, passersby would ask us what we were looking at, when we said we were looking at a bird, most cars quickly moved off as many tourists seem to want to see the big mammals, not these interesting birds.

“Often the best way to find birds in the bush is to listen. The ears can often locate better than the eyes.” ~ Mike Haworth

Listening for birds can be as important as seeing them. Often, once you hear a bird you can usually pinpoint its location and with a little searching you can see it.

“One who listens learns, and one who learns listens.” ~ Matshona Dhliwayo

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

When entering the Kruger Park through the Phabeni or Numbi gates we usually stop in at the Pretoriuskop rest camp for fuel and to wander around with a camera. We have found the birding to be highly productive in this rest camp.

Often some of the best sightings are on the lawn next to the rest camp reception. Across the drive in front of the reception is a lawn with trees behind the fuel station.

“You must give everything to make your life as beautiful as the dreams that dance in your imagination.” ~ Roman Payne

A juvenile Southern black flycatcher landed on the lawn in front of me to grab an insect it had seen. This juvenile still had its fawn coloured spots on its head and neck and a few of its coverts. When fully mature this flycatcher will be entirely black.

While Helen was making a cup of coffee I strolled across the driveway onto the lawn in front of the reception only to see a female Violet-backed starling foraging for insects in the grass.

This was an exciting find because the female is usually paired with the male. While the female has striking plumage the male has exquisite amethyst or iridescent purple upper parts which includes his chin, throat and wings. He has a black throat band and his beast and belly are white. As hard as I tried I could not see the male.

While wandering around the same section of lawn I heard the distinct sound of a woodpecker hammering at a wooden branch. After a bit of scouting I found this female Cardinal woodpecker digging earnestly among the lichen on a branch high up in a tree.

A female Cardinal Woodpecker has white underparts which are heavily streaked. She has a white face and black crown, forehead and nape. Unlike the male’s red hind crown and nape, the female has a fully dark top of her head. This female seemed unperturbed by the presence of a Woodland kingfisher. In recent years we have seen a pair of Woodland kingfishers nesting in a hole in the trunk of a figtree opposite the reception office.

By now we were enjoying a cup of coffee and a hot cross bun and sitting on the benches in the lawn adjacent to the reception. By sitting quietly we saw a wonderful select of birds. One visitor was a Southern black tit in a tree above the reception office. This species of tit is all black except for its white shoulders, white edgings to the wing feathers, and a barred gray-and-white undertail. Ebird accurately indicates this species is often detected by its noisy buzzing and chirping vocalizations, including a sweet-and-scratchy “diddy-dzee-dzee-dzee-dzee-dzee.”

“When I sit quietly I hear nature’s symphony. Then a single bird’s song stands out calling for attention. That is when you know what to look for.” ~ Mike Haworth

As the bird sighting were getting better and better, a chattering family of Retz’s helmet-shrikes arrived and noisily darted in and out of the trees above us. This species of helmet-shrike is often seen in this area and it has a distinctive black plumage with a red-orange eye wattle and yellow eye. Its beak and legs are a bright red colour.

The Retz’s helmet-shrike has white under tail coverts and its under tail feathers are white. When not in breeding season the gregarious helmet-shrike groups can become much larger than five or six members and the group sometimes includes White helmet-shrikes.

Just when we thought it could not get better a male Bearded woodpecker arrived in the tree in front of us. He gave us a sustained display while energetically searching for grubs in holes in tree branches and grubs under the bark.

The male Bearded woodpecker has a black forehead with white spots and a red hind crown and black nape. Its underparts are fine fawn bars on a grey background. The female looks similar to the male but has a black hind crown.

The Bearded woodpecker is noticeably larger than the Cardinal woodpecker.

“Sometimes the woodpecker will show up just to stimulate new rhythms. Rhythm is a powerful means of affecting the physical energies” ~ Ted Andrews

The red eye of the Bearded woodpecker is noticeable in the next image. Generally because this species of woodpecker is usually under a branch in the shade you do not notice its red eye.

In the trees behind the reception office we heard the distinct call of an Orange-breasted bushshrike. Its call sounds like ” coffee-tea-or-meeeee”.

This species of bushshrike has a striking grey crown, nape and cheeks. It has green upper parts. It has a striking yellow eyebrow and forehead, yellow neck and yellow underparts with a vibrant orange breast. Its eyes and lores are black.

After a productive and fun hour watching all the birds around us at Pretoriuskop rest camp we decided to head out and wander around the sand roads in the park outside the rest camp. Being February we were lucky enough to get a good sighting of an Amur falcon. This diminutive species of falcon migrates from its breeding grounds in Siberia and northern China to their wintering grounds in Southern and East Africa. Their migratory journey involves a spectacular mass migration across India and a non-stop flight over the Arabian Sea to Africa, covering a distance of about 22,000 km. 

“Migratory birds connect people, ecosystems and nations. They are symbols of peace and of an interconnected planet.” ~ Antonio Guterres

Visiting Pretoriuskop rest camp has always been productive from a birding perspective. We often see Green pigeons, Purple crested turacos and if we are lucky enough Brown-headed parrots. The Drongos, Groundscraper thrushes are always around as are a selection of Glossy starlings.

“The key to a wonderful life is to never stop wandering into wonder.” ~ Suzy Kassem

I have no doubt if we spent a many hours wandering around the grounds of this rest camp we would see many more species. This part of the Kruger park is highly productive from a birding and bird photography perspective.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

We stayed at Sabi River bungalows resort and used it as a springboard for our trips into Kruger Park in February this year. We usually enter the park through the Phabeni gate which is only 12 kilometres east of the town of Hazyview. Sabi River bungalows is only about four kilometres north west of Hazyview.

Once through the Phabeni gate we often turn right off the S1 onto Albasini road (S3) which takes us down to the H1-1, which is the main road from the Numbi gate to Pretoriuskop rest camp. The road is sand/gravel and is usually highly productive, from a birding point of view. The trick is to get into the park by 6h00 in summer because it is already light and the wildlife is more active before it gets too hot. The temperature can typically reach 35 degrees centigrade in this part of the world around midday.

“We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.” ~ Anonymous

The S14 Fayi Loop exits the S8 just west of Pretoriuskop. The loop is around 13 kilometres long and enters Voortrekker road just east of Pretoriuskop. The loop should take a minimum of a 45-minutes to drive, though with good sightings it could take a couple of hours. This sand road winds through terminalia woodlands and areas of sickle-bush. The start of loop is characterised by granite outcrops and coarse, reddish soil, which supports unique vegetation known as Pretoriuskop sourveld. This is habitat for sable antelope, white rhino and other wildlife.

Just at the start of the Fayi loop we were lucky enough to see an African Cuckoo-hawk in the top of a large tree. This was only the second time I have seen an African Cuckoo-hawk. The first time was in Tembe Elephant Park many years ago.

The African Cuckoo-hawk is so named because it resembles a common cuckoo in terms of shape and colour from a distance. The male is blackish-brown above with a grey mantle and chest with a blackish crest, the underparts are white marked with broad chestnut bars. The tail is black with three grey bars and grey and white tip.

The African Cuckoo-hawk is a shy raptor and little is known about its behaviour as it is not often seen and has secretive habits preferring the edges of evergreen forests and deciduous woodlands. Chameleons are known to be a significant part of the African Cuckoo-hawk’s diet, though it will also go for other reptiles, insects and even small mammals and birds.

There are several large granite outcrops at the start of the Fayi loop. We always look for Klipspringers on the rocks and even a leopard lying in the shade watching over its territory from a high rocky vantage point. At the base of these granite outcrops we found many ‘Pride of De Kaap’ bushes. Pride of De Kaap has characteristic two-winged leaves. The petals of these florescences are oar-shaped and around 40 mm long. During late summer these bushes are adorned with florescences which usually range in colour from salmon to orange and yellow to white.

The Fayi tributary starts close to the H1-1 main road from Numbi gate to Pretoriuskop rest camp. The Fayi tributary flows south for a significant length of the Fayi loop before joining the Nsikazi tributary which flows down along the south west park boundary to join the Crocodile river at the southern end of Kruger.

“I know not how I may seem to others, but to myself I am but a small child wandering upon the vast shores of knowledge, every now and then finding a small bright pebble to content myself with.” ~ Plato

We found this diminutive African Dusky flycatcher hunting insects in a bush next to the side of the sand road.

This looked to be a juvenile with its spotty crown and light brown streaks on its breast. The adult has an almost plain beige crown and similar soft dark smudges on its breast.

Further along the loop we found several Southern African giraffe browsing on the trees. One male giraffe had several Red-billed oxpeckers grooming his neck and mane.

Both Red-billed and yellow-billed oxpeckers primarily feed on ectoparasites like ticks found on large mammals, but their feeding behaviours and preferences differ slightly. Yellow-billed oxpeckers tend to focus on larger ungulates and may consume more ticks and have a higher overall food intake, while red-billed oxpeckers show more flexibility in host choice and may also feed on wounds. The Yellow-billed oxpecker feeds by plucking to remove parasites from its host whereas the Red-billed oxpecker used a scissoring technique.

The Fayi loop crosses the Fayi tributary in two places. These are normally the areas where we see rollers, bishops, canaries and widowbirds and on occasions Malachite kingfishers. We found an obliging male White-winged widowbird in the reeds and bushes along the first tributary crossing. Perhaps the reason this male White-winged widowbird was so obliging was that he was distracted by all the females in the area.

“To live in the world without becoming aware of the meaning of the world is like wandering about in a great library without touching the books.” ~ Dan Brown

He was very busy trying to impress all the passing females, flying back and forth displaying his white and yellow wing coverts and fanning his tail feathers. He was also very vocal calling to all the females.

As we were driving down the hill towards the second tributary crossing we saw this Common buzzard. It was scouring the area from a high vantage point in a dead tree.

The Common buzzard is a summer visitor to this part of the world. The Common buzzards that migrate typically breed in the colder regions of Europe and Asia and migrate south for the northern hemisphere winter.

This species prefers the higher rainfall eastern and southern areas of southern Africa with grasslands and open savanna with tree cover. The Common or Steppe buzzard can be identified by the pale horizontal band across its breast which separates the streaked upper breast from the banded underparts. Common buzzards exhibit significant colour variations, with plumage varying from very dark to almost completely white.

In certain diffused light the iridescent blue-green sheen on the Greater Blue-eared Glossy starling really shows. The Cape, Blue-eared and Black-bellied glossy starlings are tricky to tell apart as they have a simmar GISS (general impression of size and shape) and all have the glossy iridescent sheen on their plumage and orange eyes. The Cape and Blue-eared glossy starlings occupy the same habitats. The Blue-eared is the most iridescent of all the glossy starling species and has a distinct patch of dark blue feathers on the ear coverts.

In the reedbeds along the Fayi tributary we found several very active Red-collared widowbirds who was also busy chasing females.

Male widowbirds typically display from a prominent position during the breeding season to attract females and establish territories. The displaying male will usually chase any other males away from his territory. This male Red-collared widowbird displayed his scarlet red collar and long black tail feathers to great effect.

Next to the bridge at the second crossing of the Fayi tributary we saw several canaries bathing and drying themselves on the grass stems next to the open water. I am not sure what this species was but I think it was a Streaky-headed seedeater because of its prominent long curved white eyebrow, fine streaks on its brown crown, grey-brown upperparts and beige underparts.

A Striped kingfisher perched in a dead tree next to the sand road. This species is an insect eater not a fisherman. It is identified by its black eye band and broad white collar. It has the kingfisher-type powder-blue upper tail coverts and blue tail feathers. Importantly for identification, this species has a black upper mandible and red lower mandible. It also has a small chubby GISS and a short tail.

As we were driving on the Sand road towards the end of the Fayi loop through the terminalia woodlands we found this slow moving Common flap-neck chameleon. Having just stepped out of the green grass at the edge of the road it had not yet adjusted its camouflage. Chameleons have a laterally compressed body shape with turret-like eyes which can move independently and in opposite directions.

Chameleons are adept climbers with a long prehensile tail which acts as an extra limb and opposable digits for grasping branches and twigs. Chameleons can hear, although they don’t have external ear openings. They have a pterygoid ear, which is most sensitive to sounds between 200 and 600 Hz, so their hearing is limited.

Chameleons feed on insects like grasshoppers, beetles, flies and butterflies. This reptile has many enemies not the least of which is the African Cuckoo-hawk and the Southern ground hornbill.

This young Tree squirrel had found an edible berry next to the road and ignored us as it was trying to break through the hard outer shell.

“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures that we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.” ~ Jawaharlal Nehru

As you might expect along the Fayi tributary, the Waterbuck were never far from water. Waterbuck are highly dependent on water because the drink daily and seek refuge from predators in the water.

We saw a Klipspringer family on virtually every granite outcrop along the Fayi loop. Klipspringers have specially adapted hooves to grip onto rock faces. Their hooves are cylindrical, blunt, and have rubbery, cartilaginous pads on the tips, which act like a suction cup, providing extra grip and shock absorption and in doing so provide excellent traction. They also walk on the very tips of their hooves, which enhances their grip and allows them to navigate rocky terrain with agility and speed.

The Fayi loop must have taken us about three hours to complete mainly because there was so much to see. Not only was there a wonderful variety of mammals, reptiles and birds but the flora is unique around the granite outcrops. The Fayi loop follows the Fayi tributary for a long section which is where you are likely to find mammals coming down to drink and many birds that are attracted by the water and reeds.

“Travel is not reward for working, it’s education for living.” ~ Anthony Bourdain

The next post will show images from Pretoriuskop rest camp which we usually stop at for fuel and because there is a remarkable variety of birds in the camp.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

In February this year, Helen and I used some of our timeshare points to spend a week at the Sabi River Bungalows resort operated by Southern Sun.

The resort is bounded on the north and east side by the Sabi river which flows on into Kruger Park. There is a beautiful 18 hole golf course at the resort and several small dams which are water hazards for the golfers and one large dam to test golfers and offer great sightings of its teaming birdlife.

“The goal of life is living in agreement with nature.” ~ Zeno of Citium

A Southern Black flycatcher is mainly insectivorous but will eat beetles, termites worms, spiders and centipedes. This character had been worm hunting, ever the opportunist. This species of flycatcher looks very similar to a Fork-tailed drongo but has a smaller body, a smaller beak and does not have a forked tail. Its eyes are brown not red eye like the Drongo.

A demure White-fronted bee-eater perched on the edge of a Natal Mahogany next to a fairway on the golf course. It was hawking insects from this perch in the heat of the late afternoon. The white front is its forehead and white throat band under its beak and black eye mask. It’s lime green upper parts, red throat, buff orange breast and powder blue undertail coverts make it unmistakable.

This Kurrichane thrush was busy flicking its beak through the leaf litter looking for worms, insects or small fallen fruit. This species of thrush has grey upper parts, a white belly, buff-orange flanks, a distinctive bright orange bill and eye-ring, and a pale throat with a broad black moustache.

A female Broad-billed weaver close to her nest in the reeds at the edge of the main dam in the resort. The female of this species has a yellow beak and heavy brown stripes on her buff coloured throat and breast.

A demanding Broad-billed weaver chick hanging on to a reed in a prominent place so that its parents would notice it.

One of two Woolly necked storks foraging for insects along the edge of one of the fairways on the resort’s attractive golf course. This stork has a dark brown body and wing plumage which in certain light has a green-bronze iridescence on the wings and breast. It has a distinctive white ruffled neck, a white tail, red eye and a dark salmon-tipped bill. These two individuals were fully habituated to all the human activity around them.

“A walk in nature walks the soul back home.” ~ Mary Davis

A male Pied kingfisher hovering over the dam zeroing in on a fish he had seen just below the surface of the water. The male is identified by his double black breast band, a thin continuous black band below and a thicker broken black band across his chest.

A special sighting of a male Half-collared kingfisher in the deep shade of a tree overhanging the edge of the main dam. The main difference between male and female Half-collared kingfisher lies in their beak. Males have an entirely black bill, while females have some red at the base of their lower mandible. Both sexes otherwise have similar vibrant blue upperparts, a white throat, and pale orange underparts, making them difficult to distinguish at a glance. The dark blue patches on either side of the neck form a half collar. The legs and feet are bright red. 

A Groundscraper thrush on a dead branch in the thickly wooded edge of the golf course in the section that follows the course of the Sabi river on the northern side of the resort. Given its indistinct black facial markings and black teardrop shaped spots that did not extend fully under its belly, so I presumed it was a juvenile.

A Green-backed heron perched on a horizontal branch overhanging the water in the main dam.

A Green-backed heron hunting from a support at the bottom of the weir at the northern end of the main dam.

Green-backed herons diet consists of small fish, frogs, and aquatic insects but will also eat small vertebrates, molluscs, crabs, and worms when they can find them. The main dam and the weir below it are ideal hunting areas for this species.

A Purple heron hunting from the edge of the lawns leading down to the river that feeds into the main dam. It was early in the morning which is why there was plenty of moisture on the grass. All herons have striking plumage, and the Purple heron is no exception with its distinctive reddish brown plumage, a black crown and reddish face with a black stripe below the eye and a white upper throat band.

“Those who contemplate the beauty of the earth find reserves of strength that will endure as long as life lasts.” ~ Rachel Carson

The Purple heron prefers hunting in dense vegetation, especially thick reedbeds. It, like most herons, is a stealth hunter which spears its prey with a strong jab using its long neck and sharp dagger-like beak.

A male Broad-billed weaver perched in the reeds close to his female and his nest at the edge of the main dam in the resort. The male is brown with a dark bill and a white dash on its forehead either side of its top mandible and a white sash on first few primary wing feathers on each wing.

The male makes a nest which is beautifully compact and globe-shaped. The nests are woven from thin reed strips and suspended between upright reed stems. The entrance is uniquely positioned near the top unlike most weavers which have the entrance to their nests on the underside. This particular character was stealing fibres from another nest to weave his latest creation.

A male Cattle egret flying into a heronry in a large acacia tree in the island in the middle of the dam. There were many egrets and herons in the three large acacias and of course a heronry is never quiet.

It amazes me how these regrets negotiate the huge acacia thorns as they fly in to land and feed their chicks, and manage to not impale themselves.

“The world will never starve for want of wonders; but only for want of wonder.” ~ G.K. Chesterton

The instantly recognisable summer visitor, the Woodland kingfisher, with its white underparts and black wing coverts and cobalt blue primary wing feathers and back. It also has a distinctive red upper mandible and black lower mandible. This species of kingfisher feeds mainly on insects. Its frequent trilling is a familiar sound of summer.

A Black crake negotiating the reeds below the weir at the northern end of the main dam. It’s all black plumage, red eyes and pink-red legs and vibrant yellow beak make this species instantly recognisable. The red is particularly vibrant in the breeding season.

The Black crake prefers marshes, swamps and wetland areas so it’s long toes are ideal for navigating reeds, mud and floating vegetation. This species of crake is omnivorous so its diet varies from earthworms and insects to small fish, frogs and seeds and parts of water plants.

The heronry in the large acacia trees and one Natal Mahogany on the island in the middle of the main dam is the nesting site for egrets and herons alike. We saw a few Black-headed heron families in trees on the island.

It was amazing to watch how aggressive the siblings of both the egret and heron species got with their own species. The Black-headed heron chicks had not yet fledged and vied for food from the parents. Even when the chicks had finished the food the parents brought the sparring went on.

A young African jacana walking over the reeds and long grass using its long toes in a similar manner to the Black crake.

We saw many Reed cormorants and African darters in the main dam. This particular darter was fishing near the edge of the dam where we were sitting. It came up for air and all we could see was a small section of its neck and head. An African darter can hold its breath for up to around 100 seconds. This species, also called ‘the Snakebird’ because of its its distinctive swimming behaviour, where it swims with only its long, slender neck and head above the water, resembling a swimming snake. It is a fast underwater swimmer which spears fish with its beak. Once the fish is speared the darter surfaces to toss the fish into the air to reposition it so it can catch it and swallow the fish head-first. This makes swallowing easier and avoids the dorsal fin spines jamming the fish in the bird’s throat.

“Always be on the lookout for the presence of wonder.” ~ E.B. White

We saw many more birds around the golf course and around the small dams. There was also the north and eastern boundary of the resort which followed the Sabi river. The vegetation was thick and the light dappled making the bird photograph tricky but we could hear many birds in the dense vegetation.

“The earth has music for those who listen.” ~ William Shakespeare

We have been to the Sabi River bungalows resort several times because not only is a wonderful place to stay but is an ideal springboard to get into the Kruger Park from the Phabeni gate. The next few posts will show images and stories from our travels around Kruger Park on this trip.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

This is the last post from our wonderful few days in the vulture hide in Giant’s Castle Reserve in the Drakensberg in November last year.

“Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” ~ Mahatma Gandhi

We saw two types of vulture during our time in the hide, the Bearded and the Cape. In 2015, the Cape vulture had been classified as Endangered on the IUCN Red List, but was down-listed to Vulnerable in 2021 as some populations increased and have been stable since about 2016. A few factors are thought to contribute to its vulnerable status. It is facing habitat loss and disturbance of nesting sites which is problematic because it is a slow breeder. It also faces human threats like poisoning because it only feeds on carrion.

“May the wind under your wings bear you where the sun sails and the moon walks.” ~ J. R. R. Tolkien

The Cape vulture has a low aspect ratio wing. This means its wingspan, relative to its width, is comparatively low, which is ideal for soaring. Their wingtips feature slotted or separated primary feathers which reduce wingtips vortices, lowering drag and stall speed which facilitate circling in thermals. The large wingspan allows them to glide long distances, catch thermals and ride updrafts. These vultures are known to fly at altitudes of up to 8000 metres and use their superior eyesight to look for food.

The Cape vulture’s plumage is cream-white to pale russet. It has a collar of fluffy white feathers on the back of its neck. It has a long bluish-grey neck which is mostly bare skin with a small tufts of white feathers on it. Its head and face are blue-grey and covered with short white, hair-like feathers.

The Cape vulture has pale yellow eyes and a dark black beak (which grows throughout its life). White-backed, as well as Cape Vultures, have a unique groove and serrated tongue which allows them to access soft flesh which may not be accessible with their beaks. The nostrils of a Cape vulture, like those of other vultures, are adapted for an acute sense of smell, crucial for locating food. They lack a septum (the dividing wall between nostrils), allowing air to pass straight through and enabling them to detect scents from a distance, even from high altitudes. Their sense of smell is not as acute as other vulture species especially when soaring at high altitudes, but it is still a valuable sense when scavenging for their meals.

According to Operationmigration.org, the Cape vulture is southern Africa’s only endemic vulture species. It does not migrate but can travel up to 100 kilometres looking for food. This species is one of the largest vultures in southern Africa with a wingspan of up to 2.6 metres and weighing up to 11kg. It is smaller than a Lappet-faced or Griffon but larger than a White-backed vulture. The female Cape vulture is typically larger than the male.

The Cape vulture is much easier to photograph than the Bearded vulture or the Jackal buzzard. The reason for this is that it is a slow flier, and flies in from above rather than using the updraft to fly in from below the feeding terrace like the Jackal buzzard and the Bearded vulture.

It is always a thrill when these raptors fly onto the feeding terrace. They are large and have “full flaps down” with extended wings to slow themselves when coming in to land. This action can produce dramatic images.

“One learns from books and example only that certain things can be done. Actual learning requires that you do those things.” ~ Frank Herbert

As with most raptors, the Cape vulture will land on the rocks at the far end of the feeding terrace. It will then look around to ensure that it is safe to walk into the middle of the feeding terrace. By standing on the rock at the far end of the terrace, the vultures have a quick get away as the rocks create a sharp ledge from which it launch themselves in the Bushman’s river valley below.

The Cape vulture nests on cliffs and lays only one egg each year, which must contribute to its vulnerability. This is unusual as all other vultures lay multiple eggs. This species is monogamous and so forms pair bonds for many seasons. Both parents take responsibility for incubating the egg for just under 60 days and feed the chick once it hatches. The chick usually fledges after four to five months but remains dependent on its parents for food for several months thereafter.

One of the features of the Giant’s Castle hide is that you can often see interactions between one or a few Cape vultures and the Black-backed jackals. The jackals visit the feeding terrace in front of the hide multiple times a day to steal the bones we put out for the vultures.

“Time spent outdoors reminds us that we’re part of something larger: a beautiful universe brimming with endless possibilities” ~ Unknown

The jackals are brazen when there is only one Cape vulture on the terrace and will usually intimidate the vulture by running toward it with its head down in a menacing manner. It is not so one-sided when there are a few vultures on the bones. The vultures have been known to nip the jackal’s face when it gets too close. That is where their long neck comes in handy!

I was surprised by the interaction between the Cape vulture and Yellow-billed kite. The vulture walked up to within about two metres of a large bone with plenty of flesh and fat on it and then just stood and looked around. In the meantime, the Yellow-billed kite flew straight onto the bone and began eating. For about five minutes the Cape vulture did nothing showing no aggression towards the kite.

Eventually the Cape vulture decided it wanted to eat and used its large size to push the kite away from the bone it was feeding on. The kite did not seem scared of the much larger vulture, perhaps because of its flying agility.

‘Coming in hot on finals’. This Cape vulture descended rapidly from a thermal which had carried it high above the Bushman’s river valley and the feeding terrace in front of the hide. I love seeing some of the covert feathers on top of its wings lift when landing, suggesting stall speed above sections of the wing.

“Going outside lets us appreciate life’s precious moments that pass too quickly indoors” ~ Anonymous

During a stall or high angle of attack manoeuvres, a raptor’s covert feathers, particularly the upper-wing coverts, can passively deploy, acting as aeroelastic flow control devices. This deployment helps mitigate flow separation, improve lift, and potentially delay or prevent stall, especially during landing or when encountering gusts.

On our last morning in the hide it was moody with intermittent sunlight between the rapidly moving clouds. On previous occasions we usually only saw one Cape vulture land on the feeding terrace at a time, and very occasionally two. On this particular morning we saw 12 Cape vultures progressively fly in and land in front of the hide.

The Black-backed jackal must have seen all the Cape vultures flying on the feeding terrace. The thief inevitably gate crashed the Cape vulture party. Surprisingly, this young Black-backed jackal ran in among the vultures and stole one of the larger bones.

According to Project vulture, there are about 2 900 breeding pairs in southern Africa, of which around 1 450 pairs reside in the Maloti-Drakensberg mountains- about 20% of the population.

Giant’s Castle is a spectacular reserve with vast vistas, big skies and an imposing sandstone and basalt buttresses as a backdrop. The vulture hide is positioned on the western side of a ridge on the east side of the large deep Bushman’s river valley. The views are incredible, and the moods constantly changing because of the weather.

“Adventure is the bridge between dreams and reality. When we walk across that bridge, we can explore the unknown and uncover hidden wonders. With every step, we move closer to our ambitions, passions, and goals. Adventure gives us the courage to take risks and make bold decisions – decisions that help shape our destiny.” ~ Unknown

We have always had superb avian sightings from the hide with fly-bys by Bearded and Cape vultures, Jackal buzzards, Lanner falcons, Rock kestrels and Yellow-billed kites. I am still waiting to see a Black eagle from the hide. We saw Bald ibises, White-necked ravens, Red winged starlings, Buff-streaked and Familiar chats, Yellow bishops and Cape canaries, Malachite and Greater double-collared sunbirds, Cape longclaws and so many more.

“Wherever you go, go with all your heart” ~ Confucius

You will also see Eland, Mountain reedbuck, Chacma baboons and Black-backed jackals. The White-necked ravens and Black-backed jackals will test your patience as they are consummate bone thieves.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its inter=connectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

Our visit to Giant’s Castle vulture hide was richly rewarded by all our raptor sightings but there was so much more. The raptors are the central attraction at the vulture hide, especially the Bearded and Cape vultures because of their rarity. But there is so much more to see when you are in the hide.

This post is mostly a gallery of images of the non raptors that we saw on and around the feeding terrace in front of the hide while waiting for the raptors to arrive.

“The lesson which life constantly repeats is to ‘look under your feet.’ 
You are always nearer to the divine and the true sources of your power than you think.
The lure of the distant and the difficult is deceptive.
The great opportunity is where you are.
Do not despise your own place and hour.
Every place is under the stars.
Every place is the center of the world.”
~ John Burroughs

The Cape canaries were regular visitors. This species of canary has a distinct grey nape and pure yellow-mustard coloured face. It is sometimes confused with the Yellow-fronted canary which also has a grey nape but a much bolder face pattern of black, yellow and grey. The latter also has a grey crown.

The male Cape canary has more vivid colouring than the female. This species of seedeater is gregarious and often seen in small noisy flocks.

The two most common bird species we saw in front of the hide was the Red-winged starling and White necked raven. In the sunlight, the Red-winged starling has a beautiful sheen to his dark blue plumage. Both the male and female of this species of starling have the rust red primary wing feathers which are distinctive in flight. This species also has a dark eye unlike the Pale-winged starling which has red-orange eye. The female has similarly coloured back and wing coloured plumage but she has an ash-grey head and upper breast.

When the weather is overcast, the dark blue sheen fades into a dark blue almost black colour but the red primary wing feathers are still distinctive.

White necked ravens were the thugs of the feeding terrace. They arrived in gangs and pushed all other birds off the bones. Like the Red-winged starlings, the White necked ravens are omnivores and come to the feeding terrace to feed on the fat on the bones we put out. This is a large bird and is bigger than a Pied or Black crow. It has a heavy beak with an arched upper mandible and a white tip to both mandibles. It uses its powerful beak to tear fat and flesh off the bones we leave out for the raptors.

“We are not above nature; we are a part of it.” ~ Paul Watson

White necked ravens are wonderful fliers and seem to love playing in the updrafts when the wind picks up. Ravens are part of the Corvid family and are the only passerine (perching) birds with the ability to soar.

White necked Ravens are almost exclusively cliff nesters so tend to prefer mountainous and hilly terrain where nest and roost sites are plentiful. This species is omnivorous and very happy to scavenge when the opportunity arises, so the feeding terrace is a favoured place for these ravens in Giant’s Castle reserve. White necked ravens have surprisingly strong necks and are able to pick up large bones with their beak and fly off down the valley with them, probably to feed in peace.

A Red-eye dove arrived at the feeding terrace not for the fat on the bones but for grass seed. The Red-eye dove looks very similar to the Cape turtle dove in that they both have a black ring on the back of their neck and their plumage, at a quick glance, is similar but the Red-eyed dove is larger and has darker grey upperparts. The Red-eyed dove also has a dark red eye with a thin surround of red skin around the eyes.

A Rock martin in flight catching the updraft next to the feeding terrace. The Rock martin has predominantly brown plumage which is paler toned on its breast and underwing coverts. In flight, it has distinct white windows on its spread tail in flight.

“There is an unreasonable joy to be had from the observation of small birds going about their bright, oblivious business” ~ Grant Hutchison

This Rock martin’s natural breeding habitat is hilly or mountainous terrain with cliffs and steep ridges which is why this species is regularly seen from the hide. Its flight is relatively slow with rapid wing beats interspersed with flat-winged glides.

Also commonly seen in front and around the hide is the Greater striped swallow. This species is constantly hawking small insects in mid flight. The Greater striped swallow prefers more open habitats with hilly or mountainous terrain. It is always great fun trying to capture images of these agile fliers in flight.

The Greater Striped swallow has distinct white patches on its tail feathers. These white patches, or “windows,” are found on the inner webs of the rectrices, except for the innermost two pairs. The tail itself is deeply forked and has elongated outer tail feathers forming streamers.

“Every thread you discover in the local web of life leads beyond your place to life elsewhere.” ~ Scott Sanders

The Lesser striped swallow has heavier and darker underpart striping, a deeper red rump, and a brighter head colour than the larger Greater striped swallow. The Greater striped swallow does not have the rufous ear coverts of its Lesser cousin.

One of the highlights of this trip was seeing a pair of Ground woodpeckers for the first time. This species has been on my wish list for years. Helen and I were driving down the steep section of track that provides access between the elevated ridge that the vulture hide is on with the valley far below that leads to the main road. As we were descending the particularly steep section of the track we suddenly noticed a bird flush from a nesting hole in the side of the road cutting. This bird landed on a large rock further down the steep incline. To my astonishment and delight it was a Ground woodpecker.

“You must have the bird in your heart before you can find it in the bush.” ~ John Burroughs

Woodpeckers are primarily known for their arboreal nesting and foraging. Occasionally, arboreal woodpeckers feed opportunistically on the ground. The Ground woodpecker is the only species of woodpecker that nests on the ground usually in wall of an earthen bank, and it forages terrestrially. Like all woodpeckers, the Ground woodpecker uses its stiff tail feathers for support and its has zygodactyl feet, meaning two toes forward and two backward, for effective gripping.

Once we had descended from the ridge into the valley below we came across a pair of Malachite sunbirds feeding on the nectar of this attractive fluorescence. The Malachite being a large sunbird dominates the smaller sunbirds on the fluorescences.

“Nobody can discover the world for somebody else. Only when we discover it for ourselves does it become common ground and a common bond and we cease to be alone.” ~ Wendell Berry

Malachite sunbirds prefer higher altitudes but can be found from sea level to mountains and from Ethiopia to Cape Town. The breeding male Malachite sunbird has the vibrant metallic green plumage but the female by contrast has brown upper parts and dull yellow underparts with some indistinct streaking on the breast. The female’s tail feathers are much shorter than the male’s and does not have the long central two tail streamer feathers.

While waiting for a Jackal buzzard to arrive on the feeding terrace, which we had heard in the valley below, along came what initially sounded like a pair of Hadeda ibises. They were flying down the Bushman’s river valley. I had never heard a Southern Bald ibis before so was surprised they sounded, to me, similar to the Hadeda ibis.

This was a special sighting as they are endangered. According to Fannsie Peacock’s Firefinch app, there are only around 7200 of these South African endemics remaining. This species prefers high-altitude grassland between 1200 and 1800 m, favouring short grass and recently burnt areas. It breeds in nearby rocky gorges and cliffs.

The day after our first sighting, we again saw this pair of Ground woodpeckers close to their nest in the earthen embankment where the access track cut through the side of the steep incline. This is the largest species of woodpecker in southern Africa and it can grow to between 22 cm and 30 cm in length. The upper parts are greyish-brown with pale spotting, and the rump is red and more visible in flight. The upper sides of wings and tail are brown barred with white. The underparts are buff, flushed with pink or red.

This pair of Ground woodpeckers seemed to prefer to perch on rocks close to the nest site. The diet of the ground woodpecker consists mainly of ants with their eggs, larvae and pupae. These are extracted from dead wood or between rocks, using its long, sticky tongue. One member of the pair seemed to be a sentry while the other foraged. The sentry was frequently looking up at the sky for threats.

The Speckled pigeons were daily visitors to the feeding terrace in front of the hide. They fly in very quickly so unless you see them coming from a distance, they crest the far edge of the feeding terrace in an instant. This species of pigeon flies in to feed mostly on grass seed on the feeding terrace. Like most pigeons and doves they fight by hitting each other with their wings.

This male Speckled pigeon flew in to try and mate with a female who had landed a few minutes earlier.

The sexes have similarly coloured plumage. Their back and wings are rufous in colour with white speckles. The upper and under parts are a blue-grey as it the head. It has a distinct red patch of bare skin around each eye. The male displays to the female by inflating his crop and puffing out his rufous neck feathers and bobbing his head up and down.

This post showed a small selection of the non raptors we saw from the vulture hide and driving to and from it. Every day was different. The variety of birds was different and usually their behaviour was different. The weather was variable with changing clouds, wind and light. This is a place for a photographer and birder alike to draw endless hours is intrigue and fascination.

“Whether we and our politicians know it or not, Nature is party to all our deals and decisions, and she has more votes, a longer memory, and a sterner sense of justice than we do.” ~  Wendell Berry

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

This is the third post about raptors seen from the Giant’s Castle vulture hide. The first post was about Jackal buzzards, the second, Bearded vultures and this is about Yellow-billed kites.

“The presence of a single bird can change everything for one who appreciates them.” ~ Julie Zickefoose

Kites and kestrels are both birds of prey, but they belong to different families and have distinct characteristics. Kites are medium to large raptors with long, broad wings and a forked tail, while kestrels are smaller falcons known for their hovering hunting style and pointed wings.

Three species of kite are found in southern Africa, the Yellow-billed, Black and Black-winged (previously Black-shouldered). Both Yellow-billed and Black kites are migratory. Black kites (Milvus migrans) migrate from Europe and parts of Asia to southern Africa, while yellow-billed kites (Milvus aegyptius) are intra-African migrants, meaning they migrate within the continent. In scientific names, “aegyptius” often indicates a connection to Egypt. Accordingly, the yellow-billed kite (Milvus aegyptius) is named for its presence in Egypt and surrounding regions. Yellow-billed kites breed in southern Africa during the summer months (August to March) and then migrate to central-east Africa for the winter (April to July). The Yellow-billed kite is usually one of the first migratory birds to arrive in southern Africa and as such is an early indicator of the arrival of spring.

“Migratory birds connect people, ecosystems, and nations. They are symbols of peace and of an interconnected planet.” ~ Antonio Guterres

The Yellow-billed and Black kite look very similar. Plumage colouration is dark brown though there is hue variation. While generally brown, the head and body are often a lighter shade of brown than their upper parts and wings. The tail is V-shaped. They are medium sized raptors, and although size variation occurs but on average they measure about 55 cms in height and weigh up to one kilogram and their wingspan can reach 1.5 metres.

The key distinguishing feature is the Black kite has a yellow beak with a black tip while the Yellow-bill has a pure yellow beak. Despite looking so similar the Yellow-billed and Black kite are genetically different. The eyes of both the Yellow-billed and Black kite are dark brown.

Yellow-billed kites are opportunistic scavengers. They can often seen hovering and swooping down on roadkill or stealing food from other birds. This raptor’s diet comprises mostly small rodents, frogs and insects. I have seen Yellow-billed kites successfully catching small fish that have come to the surface in the Chobe river. Yellow-billed kites and Lesser Spotted eagles can often be found together feeding on a flying ant emergence. Flying ants emerge on mass from their nests during specific weather conditions in the summer, primarily for mating purposes.

The Yellow-billed kites show their opportunistic scavenging character when they come to the vulture hide specifically to feed on the flesh and fat on the bones we put out on the feeding terrace in front of the hide.

This adult Yellow-billed kite did not seem particularly scared of the much larger Cape vulture close by. This was probably because the Yellow-billed is a smaller and considerably more nimble.

All birds that flew to the feeding terrace shared a common behavioural characteristic. They all landed on the rock ledges at the far end of the feeding terrace to establish whether it was safe to feed in the open on the terrace. Once they had established that the terrace was safe, the Yellow-billed and even the Jackal buzzard would fly across the feeding terrace to within 10 to 15 metres of the hide to feed on the flesh and fat on the bones.

While Yellow-billed kites have talons for grasping prey, their hunting style emphasises speed and agility in the air rather than the strength of their talons. Their diverse diets suggests they don’t need extremely strong talons to take down and subdue large prey. Their agility and maneuverability in flight enable them to snatch prey like insects and small birds while airborne. This is why we never saw a Yellow-billed kite try to fly off with a bone with flesh and fat on it. This species preferred to feed on the nutrients on the bone on the ground.

Yellow-billed kites are known to have a high aspect ratio wing. This means their wings are long and narrow relative to their width. This wing shape enables them to be excellent gliders and soarers allowing them to efficiently use air currents for lift and maneuverability. They can stay aloft for extended periods with minimal effort, conserve energy, and cover long distances.

“Everyone likes birds. What wild creature is more accessible to our eyes and ears, as close to us and everyone in the world, as universal as a bird?” ~ David Attenborough

The large forked tail of the Yellow-billed kite plays a crucial role in its agility and maneuverability during flight. The tail acts like a rudder, allowing the kite to make precise adjustments in direction and speed. A necessary requirement in the turbulence of the updrafts.

While generally seen alone, this species of kite can congregate in large numbers at certain times, when food is abundant. Such instances are during the impala lambing season when they try to feed on the afterbirth, or flying ant emergences, or even mass fish hatching where the young fish come to the surface for the higher oxygen levels and to gulp air to fill their swim bladders (for buoyancy).

I have never seen inter species fighting on the feeding terrace. The larger raptor usually forces the smaller bird to retreat without physical interaction. That said, Peter Steyn relates several incidents of having once witnessed two Yellow-billed kites collaboratively attacking an African Fish-Eagle, forcing this big raptor to abandon its meal, while on another occasion they took a 15-cm barbel out of the beak of a Woolly-necked Stork.(www.bird.krugerpark.co.za).

A view of the ridge looking west down on the vulture hide which is positioned among the rocks on the right hand side in the distant foreground. The openness, big sky and vast vistas make this place endlessly fascinating.

It is only when you look closer at the features of this species of kite do you realise its superb physiological and behavioural adaptation to its environment.

“The measure of intelligence is the ability to change.” ~ Albert Einstein

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

This post is the second focusing on the raptors seen and photographed at the Giant’s Castle vulture hide. It focuses on Bearded vultures which are always the highlight of our time in the hide in this reserve. This KwaZulu-Natal nature reserve in uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park, South Africa. It offers breathtaking views of deep valleys, grassy plateaus and craggy mountains. The uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, is a World Heritage Site. Giants Castle Nature Reserve occupies the central section.

“I am soaring, boundless, and free, and I know living my dreams is never a question of time but one of purpose” ~ Leo Lourdes

The next image was taken from a ridge above and behind the hide and shows the scene across the Bushman’s river valley. The tussock grasslands were green due to the summer rain.

The most-elevated stretch of the Drakensberg, in eastern and southern Lesotho. It is composed of severely eroded basalt capping a sandstone base. The next image of a lone adult Bearded vulture soaring high above the Bushman’s river valley and was taken looking west with the massive sandstone Long Wall on the far side of the valley in the background.

The Central Drakensberg is characterised by pinnacles, and broken and fractured blocks which form a massive steep eastern scarp 3,000 to 3,300 metres high along the length of the border between Lesotho and KwaZulu-Natal. The southern scarp is 2,400 to 3,000 metres high and lies along the length of the Lesotho–Eastern Cape province border.

The air flow along the Bushman’s river valley generates useful updrafts for the larger raptors. They can soar and glide for hours up and down and along the valley with minimal wing work. The Bearded vultures soar along either side of the valley and high above it. Presumably they collect thermals which enable theme to climb high above the valley floor.

The Bearded vultures continually look below see if there are bones scattered on the ground. Often they will fly past bones that we have put out on the feeding terrace a few times. They are looking at how busy and crowded the feeding terrace is and whether the jackals and baboons are in the area.

“The larger the island of knowledge, the longer the shoreline of wonder.” – Ralph W. Sockman

The Bearded vulture has a high aspect ratio wing, which is well-suited for soaring and gliding flight. This means that the wings are long and narrow relative to their width. The high aspect ratio (wing span^2/wing area), combined with the bird’s light wing loading, allows it to utilise even weak air currents for efficient soaring over mountainous terrain enabling it to stay aloft for extended periods with minimal effort, even in weak updrafts.

The Bearded vultures often fly at low altitude in the Bushman’s river valley. They are continually scouring the valley floor floor for feeding opportunities.

“Soar with wit. Conquer with dignity. Handle with care.” ~ Criss Jami

It is a thrill to watch these large raptors effortly glide past the hide. At times they can be as close as 40 metres from the ridge face.

Bearded vultures have red sclera, the white part of the eye. It is actually a vascularised ring of tissue called the scleral ring that can be flushed with blood to intensify the red colour. This intensification is used in threat displays, where the vulture can make itself look more imposing by increasing blood flow to the ring.

No matter the age colouring of the plumage, once fledged each Bearded vulture is a highly capable rider in the skies.

While the Bearded vultures do spend long periods soaring over the Bushman’s river valley they do land and sit on ledges overlooking the valley. The black eye plumage around the eyes suggest that this feature reduces the glare from the sunlight while they are soaring and gliding. Early in the morning, on the east side of the valley this adult took perceptual advantage of the shade.

“Our intuitions will be our biggest liabilities, and our imaginations will be our greatest assets.” ~ Ed Yong

The adult Bearded vulture is a large raptor with a wingspan of between 230 to 280 centimetres and a body length of 94–125 cm. Birds fly over a large speed range morphing their wings and tail to modulate aerodynamic force production. At slower speed, first the wings extend and sweep forward, spreading laterally, and at even slower speed, the tail spreads, in addition to the wings.

As large as the Bearded vultures are, they do not get it all their own way. The White necked ravens often harass them in flight. Needless to say the ravens are nothing more than an irritation for these gliding giants.

The colour of the facial plumage is a good indicator of age of Bearded vulture. The younger the individual the blacker the face and it gets progressively whiter with age. The adult’s white facial plumage gets progressively rust coloured. This is due to a cosmetic behaviour where they bathe in iron-rich mud. This colouration is thought to be linked to individual dominance and possibly other factors like feather protection or even anti-bacterial properties. 

“It is a wholesome and necessary thing for us to turn again to the earth and in the contemplation of her beauties to know the sense of wonder and humility.” ~ Rachel Carson

Although I can get a sense of the size of these Bearded vultures when they fly past, their size becomes even more apparent when they come in to land on the feeding terrace. Whilst I have seen many landing over the years I have not picked up any consistent cue that signals this vulture is coming in to land. There are times when the Bearded vulture flies past the feeding terrace then circles back and flies directly onto the terrace. The direction of arrival is dependent on the direction of the wind which shifts around all time.

Bearded vultures in the Drakensberg are called the “bone eaters of the berg”.

The Bearded vultures, juvenile and adult alike, land at the far end of the feeding terrace. Normally only one Bearded vulture lands at a time but on two occasions I have seen two Bearded vultures feeding on the bones on the flat rocks at the far end of the feeding terrace.

On this occasion, this mature adult landed and picked up a large bone with plenty of flesh and fat on it and flew off with it. Bearded vultures have strong feet which are adapted for carrying bones, and perching and walking on rocky terrain. In contrast to the powerful talons of eagles and hawks, a vulture’s feet are not designed for killing prey. Their talons are relatively blunt compared to those of other raptors, which is an adaptation for their scavenging lifestyle.

Bearded vultures do not hunt live prey. This is the only species of vulture which feeds predominately on bones, which comprise between 70% and 90% of their diet. If the bone is too big to swallow, the Bearded vulture will carry it up to as much as 100 metres above a section of flat rocks, called ossuaries. It then drops the bone onto rocks below to break it down, and in some cases expose the marrow.

A view from behind the vulture hide looking west over the Bushman’s river valley on the steep scarp of the section called the Long Wall. The feeding terrace is the relatively flat section of low grass in front of the hide where we place the bones.

The Bearded vulture is categorised as Critically Endangered with an estimated population of less than 250 individuals according to the South African Red Data list. This species is considered Near Threatened by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red Data list.

In southern Africa, the majority of Bearded vultures are found in the Maloti-Drakensberg Mountains of Lesotho and South Africa. Specifically, they are often seen in the Drakensberg Escarpment and surrounding foothills, but rarely below 1000 meters above sea level.

“Every species is a masterpiece, exquisitely adapted to the particular environment in which it has survived. Who are we to destroy or even diminish biodiversity?” ~ Edward O. Wilson

Watching all raptors gliding past the vulture hide is a thrill and it is hard not to be impressed by their effortless soaring. It is a special thrill to watch the large Bearded vulture glide at levels as low as 50 metres above the valley floor and thousands of metres above the feeding terrace, all the while riding the updrafts and thermals. The fascinating aspect is that each time we have spent time in the hide we see and learn something new about these Critical Endangered vultures – a privilege indeed.

“The more clearly we can focus our attention on the wonders and realities of the universe about us, the less taste we shall have for destruction.” ~ Rachel Carson

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

One of the best reasons for visiting Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve is its vulture hide. The hide is about five kilometres north of the camp on top of an elevated ridge on the east side of the Bushman’s River valley. The vulture hide in Giant’s Castle National Reserve is always productive from a birding and photographic point of view.

“Birds will give you a window, if you allow them. They will show you secrets from another world– fresh vision that, though it is avian, can accompany you home and alter your life. They will do this for you even if you don’t know their names– though such knowing is a thoughtful gesture. They will do this for you if you watch them.” ~ Lyanda Lynn Haupt

The Jackal buzzard got its name from its call. This strikingly plumed raptor is named for its loud, yelping call that sounds a lot like a Black-backed jackal. One, and often the pair, can be heard calling as they fly above the Bushman’s river valley. When in the hide you have to be wide awake because the raptors do not make a sound when they approach the feeding terrace in front of the hide. At least when the Jackal buzzards call, you know they are in the area. It’s time to keep a more attentive eye out for them.

This species of buzzard is regularly seen perched on rocks, trees and utility poles in open areas, scanning for prey. It is also known to hunt on the wing. This raptor “still-hunts” by dropping on its prey from a perch, which is either a tree or roadside pole or post. It takes its prey almost exclusively on bare ground, including roads.

“Watching birds soar through the sky evokes feelings of freedom, inspiration and a connection with nature.” ~ Unknown

The Jackal buzzard feeds mainly on small ground mammals, especially rodents but can take prey up to the size of a hare. It will also feed on ground feeding birds varying from nestlings to sandgrouse, francolins and spurfowl.

During the winter months, the Jackal buzzard will scavenge at carcasses and road kill. This scavenging behaviour is what attracts them to the feeding terrace in front of the hide. Visitors who have booked the hide are given a bucket of cut bones with lots of fat and flesh on them. The fat on the bones also attracts the Red-winged starlings and White-necked ravens.

While the Jackal buzzards do spend time tearing fat and flesh off the bones on the feeding terrace. They also regularly fly off into the valley below carrying large bones with most of the nutrients still on them. During the breeding season they carry food back to their chicks. During the non-breeding season they probably just want to eat in peace without being harassed by the gangs of White-necked ravens.

The tail of Jackal buzzards is typically rufous and distinctive in flight.

A Jackal buzzard female is larger than the male and has a deeper pitched call. A breeding pair can often be seen engaging in impressive aerial displays while regularly calling to each other. This aerial displaying occurs outside the breeding season. Jackal buzzards are generally monogamous and form pair bonds for life. Although some instances of polyandry (one female with multiple males) have been observed.

Jackal buzzards exhibit significant variation in their underpart colouration, with three main colour morphs observed. The upper parts are typically a slate-grey with flecks of white. The underparts display a range of patterns and colours. The typical Jackal buzzard colouring is a slaty-grey neck with white flecks, a rufous chest patch, and a black-and-white barred belly.

Among the three colour morphs of the Jackal Buzzard the typical morph remains the most common. Both the dark and the pale morphs are rarer. The colour morphs are generally defined by the appearance of the chest band that extends across the body of the individual. In most individuals, this band is predominantly rufous in colour, with the presence of white and black. In the pale and dark morphs, this band can lack one or even two of the three colours. In dark morphs, you will find that the chest band can be completely black. In pale morphs, there will usually be a lack of rufous colouring, and they will be mostly white.

“On a day like this, I can’t imagine anything better that might happen in a person’s life than for them to start paying attention to birds—to become aware of this magical world that exists all around us, unnoticed by many but totally captivating for those who know its secrets.” ~ Kenn Kaufman

The Jackal buzzard has a very short tail, broad wings, bulky body and large beak compared to most other buzzards (besides the Augur buzzard). Jackal buzzards have a relatively large wing area which facilitates higher wing loadings but results in their lower aspect ratio which does reduce their flight speeds

The combination of a relatively large wingspan ranging from 1.2 to 1.4 metres and wide wing panels suggest a relatively low aspect ratio. This ratio is the square of the wingspan divided by the wing area. Low aspect ratio wings, characterised by their short, wide shape, are beneficial for several reasons. They offer increased maneuverability and higher roll rates. They also produce more drag, lower flight speeds and can be less efficient for sustained flight. This is where the strong winds and updrafts in the hills and mountains help.

The adult Jackal buzzard is strikingly plumaged and arguably one of the most “handsome” buzzards. It has distinctive black and rufous plumage with patches of white. When seen in flight from below and above, the adult Jackal Buzzard shows white flight feathers with black tips forming a broad black terminal band. The underwing and overwing coverts are black. All colour forms have pale rufous tail feathers.

Jackal Buzzards are medium to large Buzzards with a body length of 44-55 cm. Females are generally larger than males,and their weights ranging from 1.0 kg to 1.7 kg.

This species is endemic to Southern Africa and usually found in mountainous and hilly regions above altitudes around 3000 metres. Their range extends from the north-west of Namibia and through most of South Africa. Their preference is for mountainous and hilly areas with short grass and low vegetation coverage where associated strong winds and updrafts help hovering and assist their hunting behaviour.

“Blue, blue windows behind the stars,
Yellow moon on the rise,
Big birds flying across the sky,
Throwing shadows on our eyes.” ~ Neil Young

The Jackal buzzard is of least concern on the IUCN Red list. This means that the species is not currently considered to be facing a high risk of extinction in the wild. The population trend is believed to be stable.

There are periods in the hide that can be deadly boring. Nevertheless, you have to be constantly alert because the raptors, and many larger birds, do not give any warning that they are flying in towards the feeding terrace. Often they emerge above the terrace flying at speed and with purpose. If you are not ready you will miss the incoming drama and only see the raptor when it has landed and is walking towards the bones.

“Birds flying high you know how I feel
Sun in the sky you know how I feel
Breeze driftin’ on by you know how I feel
And this old world is a new world
And a bold world
For me
And I’m feeling good
I’m feeling good.” ~ Nina Simone

The thrill of watching a large raptor flying toward the feeding terrace is hard to describe. Often the approach results in a flyby but every now and then an individual will land. Usually the raptor will land on the rocks at the far end of the feeding terrace and check to see if there are any threats. If they sense the all is clear they fly closer to feed on the bones. These approaches create the best photographic moments.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

Helen and I visited Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve, one of our favourite places in South Africa, in November last year. We try to visit this reserve at different times of the year to experience the differences in the wildlife, flora and scenery each time.

“There is no time to be bored in a world like this.” ~ Unknown

Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve is located in the southern end of central section of uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park. The latter is a World Heritage Site. The Drakensberg rises to more than 3,475 metres and extends roughly northeast to southwest for 1 125 km parallel to the southeastern coast of South Africa.

The most-elevated stretch of the Drakensberg, in eastern and southern Lesotho, is composed of severely eroded basalt capping a sandstone base. Its pinnacles, broken and fractured blocks present a steep eastern scarp of 3 000 to 3 300 metres in elevation along the length of the border between Lesotho and KwaZulu-Natal; a steep southern scarp of 2 400 to 3 000 metres in elevation lies along the length of the Lesotho–Eastern Cape province border.

“Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit.” ~ Edward Abbey

The main hutted camp in Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve overlooks the Bushman’s river. Looking west from the camp up the Bushman’s river you will see Giant’s Castle peak which is 3 314 metres high. Giant’s Castle gets its name from the outline of the peaks and escarpment that combine to resemble the profile of a sleeping giant.

Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve is about four and a half hour’s drive from Johannesburg depending on road conditions. After checking in and getting settled in our chalet we went for a late afternoon walk along the Bushman’s river trail towards the main caves. This walk revealed many birds on the rocks and on the trees, shrubs and proteas alongside the path. November is summer in South Africa so most of the birds had already adorned their breeding colours. They looked like jewels in the sunshine.

A male Greater double-collared sunbird in full breeding colours perched on a twig jutting out of a lichen encrusted branch of an Oldwood tree.

A Green white eye perched on a young shoot of an Oldwood tree in front of our chalet.

We can see three species of White-eye in South Africa, the Cape, Green, and Yellow. The Green White-eye has a broken white eye ring at the point closest to its beak and has a greenish breast and belly colouring. By contrast, the Cape White eye has the same broken white eyering but its flanks, breast and belly colour is grey.

A Bush Blackcap in a deciduous shrub in front of our chalet. This species has a distinct blackcap and a coral red beak and its underparts are light grey.

The Bush Blackcap has a melodious call. It is musical and varied. With this character singing so beautifully in front of our chalet and sitting in such an open position I just had to pick up my camera and photograph it.

There are numerous Kurrichane thrushes in and around the Giant’s Castle camp. More often than not you will find this species on the ground flicking through loose leaf litter with its beak, probably searching for earthworms. This species has an orange beak and orange flanks. It had been raining so the black malar stripe was not evident. It has the typical repetitive thrush whistle.

“Just living is not enough… one must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower.” ~ Hans Christian Andersen

On our walk out of camp along the trail to the main caves we found this male Buff Streaked chat which was very talkative from his prominent position on the large rocks alongside the path. He has a distinct buff eyebrow, a black face mask and neck and an orange breast which fades to white at his belly and vent. He has distinct black wing and tail feathers. The female is a buff colour but not nearly as strikingly coloured.

A male Malachite sunbird in the process of regrowing his breeding colours. He was perched on a protea stem trying to hang on in a stiff wind. Once he has grown his full breeding plumage he will be a bright metallic green all over and will have a yellow shoulder sash. His tail will consist of two long middle tail feathers.

“The lure of the distant and the difficult is deceptive. The great opportunity is where you are.” ~ John Burroughs

A male Malachite sunbird in full breeding plumage perched on a dead shrub next to a large boulder trying to get some protection from the strong wind gusting down the Bushman’s river valley.

A male Cape canary on a lichen encrusted rock. The male has a grey nape and mustard yellow face throat, breast and belly.

This male Canary was on his own. The female is a buff colour with heavy streaking on her breast and belly.

A Cape long claw watching the passers by from a prominent bush. This species is one of three in Southern Africa. It has a distinctive orange throat. Like all longclaws it has a black colour, cryptic upper parts and a long hind claw to help it climb over long grasses.

The Bush Blackcaps were very obliging on this trip. In the past I have struggled to see them out in the open.

An adult Gurney’s sugarbird perched on top of a shrub soaking in the late afternoon sun after a rain shower. This species of sugarbird looks and behaves in a similar manner to sunbirds but is in a different family and is much larger than all the sunbirds. This species can often be found on the protea roupelliae, the Silver sugarbush.

“May I dust you lightly with my charisma.” ~ Peter Carroll

In South Africa we can see two species of sugarbird but only the Gurney’s sugarbird is found in the Drakensberg. It has a rufous breast and cap. It has a yellow vent similar to bulbuls. The Gurney’s sugarbird has long tail feathers but they are much shorter than those of the Cape sugarbird.

These were just a few of the birds we saw on our first afternoon at the Giant’s Castle Camp. The weather was variable with sunshine, heavy clouds, winds and sporadic rain showers all of which we expected in late November in this part of the world.

Sunset looking up the Bushman’s river toward Giant’s Castle.

The main purpose of the trip was firstly to get into the wild to refresh our souls with mountain air and allow our eyes to glide over spectacular vistas. The second reason was to spend five days in the Bearded vulture hide. With the weather being so variable we decided one or two days at the hide would be a hit an miss in terms of photographic and avian sighting productivity.

“Wealth is the ability to fully experience life.” ~ Henry David Thoreau

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike