This is the last post from our Pafuri trip in May 2025. Unfortunately the camp was affected by the recent heavy rains in the Kruger Park in January 2026 and it had to be closed. According to Return Africa, the Pafuri Camp will reopen on 1 June 2026, allowing sufficient time to complete repairs and ensure that all infrastructure is restored to their high standards. Return Africa’s CEO reported that as the waters of the Luvuvhu continue to recede and the floodplain is recovering. New growth is visible everywhere, reminding us that renewal is intrinsic to this landscape.

“Live quietly in the moment and see the beauty of all before you. The future will take care of itself.” ~ Paramahansa Yoganandar

The view that greeted us each morning around 6h00 after we had finished a cup of coffee and made our way to the game vehicle for our next adventure brimming with expectation.

“And I think to myself, what a wonderful world.“ ~ Louis Armstrong

The morning game drive and breakfast usually finished around 10h30-11h00 depending on what we had seen or encountered on the drive. Back at our tented room it was time to relax and download the morning’s images. There was always wildlife activity along and in the river during the day. On this occasion a lone old buffalo bull was slowly making his way up the section of the Luvuvhu river in front of the camp. We knew there were plenty of massive crocodiles in the river, we had seen them, but it did not seem to faze this ‘old bull’.

Having located something worth eating he eventually walked onto a sandbank, across a narrow channel of water and up the bank to start grazing on the other bank. These ‘old dagga boys’ usually move around with a few companions for protection but for some reason this character was on his own and seemed to stay close to the camp.

Each day, looking down the Luvuvhu river from camp we saw a herd of elephants drinking down at the bend in the river. Sometimes they crossed and sometimes they just played in the water for a while. Then just as quickly as they appeared the herd disappeared back into the bush to feed.

I am not sure whether it was always the same herd as the numbers varied from day to day but there were plenty of youngsters which is always a good sign.

“Spending money on travel is not an expense but an investment in experiences that yield joy, growth, and lasting memories.” ~ Anonymous

At night, if you are lucky, you may hear a Pels Fishing owl call from the huge trees on the far side bank of the Luvuvhu river but during the day you are assured to see the resident pairs of fish eagles. They often called from the large trees on the far bank. In my view, the Luvuvhu river provides an iconic African vista, which combined with fish eagles calling will send shivers down your spine.

Often we would see one of the pair of resident Fish eagles perched in a prominent position overlooking the river while the other member of the pair was climbing in a thermal very high above the river. They would often call to each other too.

Generally, the adult male Nile crocodile is between 3.5m and 5 m in length and weighs 225 to 750 kg. However, specimens exceeding 6.1 m in length and 1,000 kg in weight have been recorded. The largest accurately measured male, shot near Mwanza, Tanzania, measured 6.45 m and weighed about 1,043–1,089 kg. The largest living Nile crocodile seen is Gustave who lives on the Burundi shore section of Lake Tanganyika and is estimated to be around 6.1 m in length.

The Nile crocodiles, of which there were many, often climbed onto a sandbank to warm themselves. The croc in front was massive. During the first three to four years, the young increase in length by about 30 cm per year. The growth rate then gradually decreases, but growth can continue throughout life.

The Nile Crocodile can live up to between 40 – 60 years in the wild. The sex of crocodile hatchlings is determined by the temperature at which the eggs incubate. At 30^oC or less they will be mostly female; at 31^oC they will be mixed; and at 32^oC, they will be mostly male.

Some of the best reasons why it is not a good idea to try and wade across the water channels in the Luvuvhu river.

Nile monitors grow to about 100–140 cm (maximum 200 cm) in length (including tail); they have a stout body and powerful limbs and strong claws. Like all monitors they have a forked tongue. Their skin is tough and covered with small, bead-like scales.

This species of monitor prefers to lay its eggs in termite mounds, the female tears open the nest, particularly in the rainy season when the walls are soft, and deposits up to 60 eggs without attempting to cover them. The ants quickly seal up the nest. Under fairly constant temperature (around 25^oC ) and humidity, the unattended eggs are incubated over a period of 6 to 9 months before hatching. (Source: Science Direct.com).

According to SANBI, Nile monitors are carnivores with an almost insatiable appetite, they are renowned for eating just about anything they can overpower or find as carrion. Consequently, their diet includes everything from arthropods, amphibians and fish, to birds, small mammals and other reptiles. Hunting strategies vary, but it is rare for the Nile monitor to shy away from a challenge.

At around 6h00 one morning while having coffee just before going out on a morning game drive some guests came running to tell us that a Pel Fishing owl was perched in full view on a low branch overhanging the river on the opposite side of the river to their tent.

“We do not know the true value of our moments until they have undergone the test of memory.” ~ Georges Duhamel

I have seen Pels Fishing owls each time I have been to Pafuri but never seen them in full view like this. It was at least 100 metres away but wonderful to see it in the open. This is the second largest owl species in southern Africa. Its ginger-rufous plumage and large round head make it instantly recognisable. It lives near rivers and lakes, and feeds nocturnally on fish and frogs foraged from the surface of lakes and rivers. The species prefers to roost in and hunt from large trees with branches overhanging trees a slow-moving river.

Back in camp after a productive afternoon’s game drive we would have a drink on the deck overlooking the Luvuvhu river to enjoy the beauty of the last rays of sunlight over the riverine scene. This image was taken looking west up the Luvuvhu river towards the sun just after it had dipped below the horizon.

“Life is short. Kiss slowly, laugh insanely, love truly and forgive quickly.” ~ Paulo Coelho

One evening after the day faded and darkness fell and we had finished our drinks on the deck and were just on our way to dinner, the staff called us to come over and see a pair of Thick-tailed bushbabies in the tree above the buffet area. They seemed quite relaxed and not perturbed by the human activity below them.

After dinner we usually stopped next to the fire for a cup of coffee to listen to all the night sounds. Lions roaring in the south in Kruger Park, hyaenas whopping and Wood owls in the trees among the tents. If you are lucky you might even hear a Pels Fishing owl calling from the far side river bank. There was the occasional jackal yelping, cackling and barking, and baboons creating a raucous as they were settling into arboreal bedrooms for the night.

“Our lives are composed of a finite set of moments that we choose how to spend.” ~ John Green

Pafuri Tented Camp is one of our favourite places to stay in South Africa. The camp, being located on the banks of the Luvuvhu river, offers wonderful views of the river and the massive trees that line its banks during the daylight hours. The camp is very comfortable and the staff friendly and hospitable. The two game drives a day, in the morning and afternoon, provide iconic scenes all the Luvuvhu and Limpopo rivers, baobabs, diverse ecosystems and the birding is excellent. It does not offer the big five but we have long ago moved beyond that marketing catch phrase. This is considered one of the three top birding locations in South Africa.

“Cherish your visions and your dreams, as they are the children of your soul; the blueprints of your ultimate achievements.” ~ Napoleon Hill

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike