This is the last post from our Pafuri trip in May 2025. Unfortunately the camp was affected by the recent heavy rains in the Kruger Park in January 2026 and it had to be closed. According to Return Africa, the Pafuri Camp will reopen on 1 June 2026, allowing sufficient time to complete repairs and ensure that all infrastructure is restored to their high standards. Return Africa’s CEO reported that as the waters of the Luvuvhu continue to recede and the floodplain is recovering. New growth is visible everywhere, reminding us that renewal is intrinsic to this landscape.

“Live quietly in the moment and see the beauty of all before you. The future will take care of itself.” ~ Paramahansa Yoganandar

The view that greeted us each morning around 6h00 after we had finished a cup of coffee and made our way to the game vehicle for our next adventure brimming with expectation.

“And I think to myself, what a wonderful world.“ ~ Louis Armstrong

The morning game drive and breakfast usually finished around 10h30-11h00 depending on what we had seen or encountered on the drive. Back at our tented room it was time to relax and download the morning’s images. There was always wildlife activity along and in the river during the day. On this occasion a lone old buffalo bull was slowly making his way up the section of the Luvuvhu river in front of the camp. We knew there were plenty of massive crocodiles in the river, we had seen them, but it did not seem to faze this ‘old bull’.

Having located something worth eating he eventually walked onto a sandbank, across a narrow channel of water and up the bank to start grazing on the other bank. These ‘old dagga boys’ usually move around with a few companions for protection but for some reason this character was on his own and seemed to stay close to the camp.

Each day, looking down the Luvuvhu river from camp we saw a herd of elephants drinking down at the bend in the river. Sometimes they crossed and sometimes they just played in the water for a while. Then just as quickly as they appeared the herd disappeared back into the bush to feed.

I am not sure whether it was always the same herd as the numbers varied from day to day but there were plenty of youngsters which is always a good sign.

“Spending money on travel is not an expense but an investment in experiences that yield joy, growth, and lasting memories.” ~ Anonymous

At night, if you are lucky, you may hear a Pels Fishing owl call from the huge trees on the far side bank of the Luvuvhu river but during the day you are assured to see the resident pairs of fish eagles. They often called from the large trees on the far bank. In my view, the Luvuvhu river provides an iconic African vista, which combined with fish eagles calling will send shivers down your spine.

Often we would see one of the pair of resident Fish eagles perched in a prominent position overlooking the river while the other member of the pair was climbing in a thermal very high above the river. They would often call to each other too.

Generally, the adult male Nile crocodile is between 3.5m and 5 m in length and weighs 225 to 750 kg. However, specimens exceeding 6.1 m in length and 1,000 kg in weight have been recorded. The largest accurately measured male, shot near Mwanza, Tanzania, measured 6.45 m and weighed about 1,043–1,089 kg. The largest living Nile crocodile seen is Gustave who lives on the Burundi shore section of Lake Tanganyika and is estimated to be around 6.1 m in length.

The Nile crocodiles, of which there were many, often climbed onto a sandbank to warm themselves. The croc in front was massive. During the first three to four years, the young increase in length by about 30 cm per year. The growth rate then gradually decreases, but growth can continue throughout life.

The Nile Crocodile can live up to between 40 – 60 years in the wild. The sex of crocodile hatchlings is determined by the temperature at which the eggs incubate. At 30^oC or less they will be mostly female; at 31^oC they will be mixed; and at 32^oC, they will be mostly male.

Some of the best reasons why it is not a good idea to try and wade across the water channels in the Luvuvhu river.

Nile monitors grow to about 100–140 cm (maximum 200 cm) in length (including tail); they have a stout body and powerful limbs and strong claws. Like all monitors they have a forked tongue. Their skin is tough and covered with small, bead-like scales.

This species of monitor prefers to lay its eggs in termite mounds, the female tears open the nest, particularly in the rainy season when the walls are soft, and deposits up to 60 eggs without attempting to cover them. The ants quickly seal up the nest. Under fairly constant temperature (around 25^oC ) and humidity, the unattended eggs are incubated over a period of 6 to 9 months before hatching. (Source: Science Direct.com).

According to SANBI, Nile monitors are carnivores with an almost insatiable appetite, they are renowned for eating just about anything they can overpower or find as carrion. Consequently, their diet includes everything from arthropods, amphibians and fish, to birds, small mammals and other reptiles. Hunting strategies vary, but it is rare for the Nile monitor to shy away from a challenge.

At around 6h00 one morning while having coffee just before going out on a morning game drive some guests came running to tell us that a Pel Fishing owl was perched in full view on a low branch overhanging the river on the opposite side of the river to their tent.

“We do not know the true value of our moments until they have undergone the test of memory.” ~ Georges Duhamel

I have seen Pels Fishing owls each time I have been to Pafuri but never seen them in full view like this. It was at least 100 metres away but wonderful to see it in the open. This is the second largest owl species in southern Africa. Its ginger-rufous plumage and large round head make it instantly recognisable. It lives near rivers and lakes, and feeds nocturnally on fish and frogs foraged from the surface of lakes and rivers. The species prefers to roost in and hunt from large trees with branches overhanging trees a slow-moving river.

Back in camp after a productive afternoon’s game drive we would have a drink on the deck overlooking the Luvuvhu river to enjoy the beauty of the last rays of sunlight over the riverine scene. This image was taken looking west up the Luvuvhu river towards the sun just after it had dipped below the horizon.

“Life is short. Kiss slowly, laugh insanely, love truly and forgive quickly.” ~ Paulo Coelho

One evening after the day faded and darkness fell and we had finished our drinks on the deck and were just on our way to dinner, the staff called us to come over and see a pair of Thick-tailed bushbabies in the tree above the buffet area. They seemed quite relaxed and not perturbed by the human activity below them.

After dinner we usually stopped next to the fire for a cup of coffee to listen to all the night sounds. Lions roaring in the south in Kruger Park, hyaenas whopping and Wood owls in the trees among the tents. If you are lucky you might even hear a Pels Fishing owl calling from the far side river bank. There was the occasional jackal yelping, cackling and barking, and baboons creating a raucous as they were settling into arboreal bedrooms for the night.

“Our lives are composed of a finite set of moments that we choose how to spend.” ~ John Green

Pafuri Tented Camp is one of our favourite places to stay in South Africa. The camp, being located on the banks of the Luvuvhu river, offers wonderful views of the river and the massive trees that line its banks during the daylight hours. The camp is very comfortable and the staff friendly and hospitable. The two game drives a day, in the morning and afternoon, provide iconic scenes all the Luvuvhu and Limpopo rivers, baobabs, diverse ecosystems and the birding is excellent. It does not offer the big five but we have long ago moved beyond that marketing catch phrase. This is considered one of the three top birding locations in South Africa.

“Cherish your visions and your dreams, as they are the children of your soul; the blueprints of your ultimate achievements.” ~ Napoleon Hill

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

The Pafuri area of the Kruger National Park is located in the northern region of the park. It has Zimbabwe as its northern border and Mozambique as its eastern border. The Limpopo and Luvuvhu Rivers converge in this birder’s paradise, where over 400 species have been recorded.

“We should preserve every scrap of biodiversity as priceless while we learn to use it and come to understand what it means to humanity.” ~ E. O. Wilson

We were based in the Pafuri Tented camp in the Maluleki Concession which is a 24 000 hectare concession situated between the Limpopo and Luvuvhu rivers. From here we traversed the whole Pafuri region. This area offers interesting species ranging from Black Eagles and African Hawk eagles to Pels fishing owls and Bat hawks, from a Racket-tailed to a Broad-billed rollers, and Retz Helmeted shrikes to Mottled Spinetails and Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters.

“Biodiversity starts in the distant past and it points toward the future.” ~Frans Lanting

In this post I have shown a few of the birds I photographed but there were many more which I could not photograph. Early in the morning we found a pair of Burnt-necked Eremomelas. These small warblers are ash-gray above and a pale buff below. They have a whitish throat and a distinctive pale-lemon eye. A diagnostic feature is the horizontal brown patch on their throat which gives them their name. According to the Percy FitzPatrick Institute of African Ornithology, the Burnt-necked Eremomela is also known as the Brown-throated Eremomela. This is a highly active species, continually on the move in the tree canopy. Its preferred habitat is mixed and savannah woodlands.

The Ashy Flycatcher is a common resident in the Kruger National Park. The male and female of this species have the same coloured plumage. Their head and upperparts are a bluish grey. Their underparts are a light grey, and their legs and beak are black. Their eyes are brown. This species of flycatcher prefers the upper canopy of woodlands and catches much of its food on the wing, but it will also glean insects from the foliage and bark.

Arnot’s chat, also known as the White-headed black-chat, is found from Rwanda and Angola to South Africa. It is a chunky black chat with a large white wing patch. The male has a white cap, and the female a messy white throat patch. This chat prefers in miombo and mopane woodlands.

One of three Brown-headed parrots in a combretum near Lanner gorge in Pafuri. This species of parrot is often found in small groups at the top of the canopy. It has a brown head and throat, and its upper parts are an emerald green and its underparts are green with a yellowish tinge. The top of its upper mandible is white the lower part black. This parrot feeds on a variety of seeds, nuts, berries, flowers, fruits and nectar.

A female Giant kingfisher preening herself in the afternoon sun on a fallen tree trunk at the edge of the Luvuvhu river. This is the largest of the kingfisher species in southern Africa. Both sexes have a large shaggy crest and a large black bill. It has fine white spots on its black head and upperparts. The female has a rufous belly while the male has a rufous chest and white throat. The Giant kingfisher feeds on crabs, fish, and frogs, caught by diving from a perch.

“Biodiversity can’t be maintained by protecting a few species in a zoo, or by preserving greenbelts or national parks. To function properly, nature needs more room than that. It can maintain itself, however, without human expense, without zookeepers, park rangers, foresters or gene banks. All it needs is to be left alone.” ~ Donella Meadows

A male Chin-spotted batis. This small stout looking batis has a black mask on its face, with a short white eye stripe, a grey cap and a white throat. Its upperparts are grey, and it has a prominent white wing stripe. The eyes are a distinctive yellow, and its legs and bill are black. The underparts are white with a black breast band in the males. The female’s underparts are also white, but she has a chestnut breast band and a chestnut spot on the throat.

The Chin-spotted batis is found in savannah woodland and feeds on prey foraged from the trees, either by hawking or gleaned from foliage. The prey mostly comprises insects and insect larvae.

The Marico flycatcher has a light brown head and upperparts, and white throat and underparts. Both sexes have the same colouring. Marico Flycatchers are usually found in arid acacia savannah or mixed woodland if it has acacia trees. This bird is often seen perched on the outer branches of shrubs or fence posts looking for termites, caterpillars and grasshoppers. It occasionally hawks insects from the air.

A Little bee-eater, the smallest of the bee-eaters found in southern Africa. This wonderfully coloured bee-eater has green upperparts, a black eye band with a pale blue eyebrow. It has a yellow throat and a black/dark brown gorget and its belly and flanks are a yellow/buff colour. The Little bee-eater hawks insects in flight. It prefers insects such as bees and wasps. Once it has caught the insect in flight it will return to its perch and kill the insect and remove its sting by repeatedly hitting it against its perch.

“The diversity of the phenomena of nature is so great, and the treasures hidden in the heavens so rich, precisely in order that the human mind shall never be lacking in fresh nourishment.” ~ Johannes Kepler

I am not sure, but I think this is a Rattling cisticola given its rufous wings and cap, and black streaks on its back. This insect eater prefers open woodlands and can usually be seen singing in open perches. This bird was seen away from the Luvuvhu river in a dry section of Pafuri.

A male Green-winged pytilia foraging for seeds on the ground. This colourful seedeater has a grey head and lores with the male having a crimson-red forehead and throat. Its chest and back are an olive-green and its belly has black and white bars which fade to white towards its vent. Its tail feathers are crimson changing to black at the leading edges. The female looks similar but does not have the crimson-red forehead and throat.

A Bronze-winged courser in a dry section of mopane woodland. This species is named for its characteristic bronze-tipped feathers that are visible during flight. The underwing coverts are white, contrasting with the dark black primaries which are tipped with iridescent copper to violet colouration. This courser is usually seen on the ground and can be identified by its light grey-brown upperparts. Its head has a distinct cream-white supercilium, forecrown, and posterior eyeline, as well as buffy upper neck and throat. The facial lores and ear-coverts are darker brown-black. It has a red eye ring and base of its lower mandible is red converging to black at its tip. This species of courser has long reddish pink legs.

This is a nocturnal species which mainly feeds on ground-dwelling insects and is usually solitary unless seen in the breeding season, which is in the dry season.

Many long-legged birds look like they are kneeling, from ostriches to storks and from lapwings to coursers. In fact, they are not kneeling as humans do but rather bend the joint that links the tibia to the tarsus.

A White-browed robin-chat foraging on the ground in the thickets along the Luvuvhu river. This species used to be called the Heuglin’s robin. It has a black cap, broad white supercilium and a black eye band which covers the eye from the lores to the ear patch. It has a grey-brown back and a bright fiery orange underparts and collar. The female is a little smaller than the male but their colouring is similar. A pair of robin-chats have the most beautiful duet which we usually hear early in the morning.

A White-fronted bee-eater hawking insects in the afternoon heat from a stick perch. This colourful bee-eater has a red throat and a white line above the red patch below the black eye band. It has a white forehead and its nape, and underparts are an orange-beige colour. Its upperparts are emerald green and its undertail coverts are a powder blue colour. This is a common resident bee-eater usually found in groups in woodland areas close to water courses.

A pair of Green pigeons appeared to be eating minerals from a large sand bank in the Luvuvhu river. There are many green pigeons along the Luvuvhu river attracted by the numerous fig trees growing along the banks of the river.

“If we pollute the air, water and soil that keep us alive and well, and destroy the biodiversity that allows natural systems to function, no amount of money will save us.” ~ David Suzuki

A solitary female Saddle-billed stork fishing along a sand bank in the Luvuvhu river. The female looks similar to the male but has a yellow eye and does not have a yellow wattle under its chin. The female shows more extensive white in her primaries which can be seen in flight. The head, neck, back, wings, and tail are iridescent black, with the rest of the body and the primary flight feathers being white.

Both sexes have a large red beak with a black band across the centre of the beak. They also have black legs with a pinkish-red joint between the tibia and tarsus. The Saddle-billed stork forages for prey by stabbing its beak into the water, and if it feels something it will snap its beak closed. In the water it usually hunts fish but will opportunistically catch other prey such as frogs, snails, small mammals, birds, snakes, and insects such as grasshoppers, termites, and water beetles. When small fish are caught, they are swallowed whole headfirst. If a large fish is caught it is usually taken to the bank where it may be dropped many times and often the pectoral fins will be removed to aid the swallowing.

I have shown a small number of the birds you are likely to see in the Pafuri area. In the summer months the residents and migrants can be seen. In winter the birding is still excellent, and the going is easier from a game vehicle point of view.

“Look closely at nature. Every species is a masterpiece, exquisitely adapted to the particular environment in which it has survived. Who are we to destroy or even diminish biodiversity?” ~ EO Wilson

The Pafuri area is exceptional for its diversity of landscapes, where baobab forests can be found close to fever tree forests in the inland areas which are crisscrossed by rivers. The floodplain of the Limpopo river offers a quite different experience with open grasslands, pans and thick riverine and palm groves. The so-called Pafuri Triangle is considered the most diverse part of the Kruger Park where around 1% of the land accounts for and estimated 75% of the park’s biodiversity.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its diversity and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

In July 2023 we stayed at Pafuri Tented Camp. This has become one of our special places in South Africa. The camp is located on the banks of the Luvuvhu river in the Makuleki Concession. The 24 000-ha private concession is located between the Luvuvhu River to the south and the Limpopo to the north.

“You have to leave the city of your comfort and go into the wilderness of your intuition. What you’ll discover will be wonderful. What you’ll discover is yourself.” ~ Alan Alda

The next image (taken with a iphone) shows the scenery looking south down onto the Luvuvhu river as it flows through Lanner gorge on its way to the Limpopo river. The vista is spectacular and for me represents quintessential Africa. It is one of the most diverse and scenically attractive areas in the Kruger National Park. The walls of Lanner Gorge in the Makuleke are made of ancient sandstones and the Luvuvhu River has over the millenia carved a deep canyon into these rocks.

The concession area is primarily a sandveld environment, distinguished by its Baobabs, Fever tree forests, large alluvial flood plains and probably more animal and plant species diversity than anywhere else in Kruger. This is one of the few places where Fever tree forests grow side by side with forests of giant Baobabs. In the flood plain and lower lying parts, the vegetation is verdant, but the higher lying areas are quite arid similar to that found in Mashatu further up the Limpopo river.

The Pafuri area is a favourite winter grazing ground for elephant from Mozambique, Zimbabwe and the more southerly sections of Kruger. There is plenty to eat with abundant acacia and mopani vegetation and perennial water flowing in the Luvuvhu river. This river, and some of its tributaries (including the Mutshindudi and Mutale rivers), rises in the Soutpansberg Mountains. It then flows for about 200 km through a diverse range of landscapes before it joins the Limpopo River at the bottom end of Pafuri in the Kruger National Park.

“Like music and art, love of nature is a common language that can transcend political or social boundaries.”
~ Jimmy Carter

Two young bulls were sparring with each other in front of our tented room. The one on the right had a shortened trunk possibly cut off by a snare or perhaps even a crocodile when he was young. Thankfully, the young bull’s trunk was not shortened too much and the end had healed with the openings intact. He looked to be perfectly healthy despite his feeding handicap.

Most mammals cannot sweat. Each species has developed effective and unique mechanisms to cool themselves. Elephants have wrinkled skin. The wrinkles act as a cooling mechanism by increasing the skin’s surface area. The additional skin and wrinkles trap moisture, which then takes longer to evaporate.

The quickest way for elephants to cool down is to bathe in the river. Elephants need water every day and they love playing in it. The Luvuvhu river is full of large Nile crocodiles but the adult elephants do not seem too concerned about them. There are rare occasions when a large crocodile has locked onto the trunk of an adult elephant but if that happens the crocodile is in for the thrashing of its life. The adults are very protective of their calves which on their own would be vulnerable to crocodile attacks.

Elephants’ large bodies need a lot of water and can’t afford to lose any via sweating. They use vasodilation to dissipate heat through their skin. Elephant ears provide wide platforms of relatively thin skin filled with blood vessels. When elephants get too hot, they flood their ears with blood to dissipate body heat. They also can fan their ears to increase airflow over their skin to lose heat faster.

Once the Luvuvhu river emerges from Lanner gorge the terrain starts to flatten out but is still rugged. The river twists and turns through the sandstone hills creating wonderful African bush scenes. You can’t but wonder what is just around that bend in the river.

In the winter months, elephant herds and larger bulls progressively push up into the Pafuri region to utilise the Mopani thickets as a source of nutrients as the palatability of other grazing opportunities decreases with less rain.

In winter, when the Limpopo is dry, wildlife, and elephants in particular, can easily move from one country to another. This migratory movement adds to the size of elephant herds in winter in the concession. Winter is also a good time to visit this area as it can get extremely hot in mid-summer before the rains.

“We cannot navigate and place ourselves only with maps that make the landscape dream-proof, impervious to the imagination. Such maps – and the road-map is first among them – encourage the elimination of wonder from our relationship with the world. And once wonder has been chased from our thinking about the land, then we are lost.”
~ Robert Macfarlane

Plenty of the elephant activity can be seen from the comfort of the Pafuri Tented Camp which is positioned on the northern bank of the Luvuvhu river. The river bank is sheltered on both sides by enormous Jackalberry, Nyalaberry and African Mahoganies which provide a wonderful backdrop for the elephants feeding playing and bathing in the river.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike