This is the third and last post from our recent trip to Amakhosi private game reserve. Each morning at the safari lodge we rose at 5h30 to be ready for the morning game drive at 6h00 after a cup of coffee and a muffin. The mornings were brisk at it was the beginning of spring. On some of the morning game drives shortly after leaving the lodge we crossed the Mkuze river with mist rising from the river in the foreground and the glow of the sunrise in the background.

“The sun shines not on us but in us. The rivers flow not past, but through us. Thrilling, tingling, vibrating every fibre and cell of the substance of our bodies, making them glide and sing. The trees wave and the flowers bloom in our bodies as well as our souls, and every bird song, wind song, and tremendous storm song of the rocks in the heart of the mountains is our song, our very own, and sings our love.” – John Muir

The game drive took us to the southern part of the game reserve where we had some wonderful views of the area. This was the view from a section of the Mkuze river just east of the safari lodge. The north and eastern section of the reserve has undulating terrain and by contrast the southern section is quite mountainous.

A view from the hill on the opposite side of the Mkuze river to the safari lodge. The wellness centre is visible on the left hand side of the image and the main lodge on the right hand side. The Mkuze river is obscured by the steep rocky cliff directly in front of the lodge.

In the flatter sections of the game reserve, we found a female giraffe and her calf. A giraffe calf is usually up on its legs within 20 minutes of birth and nursing within a few hours. This calf looked to be around six months old. Our ranger often watched which way the giraffe was looking to give a possible sign of a big cat.

Up river along the Mkuze from the main lodge is “IsiGodlo” meaning the chief’s residence. It is a private house positioned on a rocky cliff directly above the Mkuze river. I never visited this house but I imagine the views are spectacular.

Often while waiting to start the game drive we were greeted by Purple crested turacos which were attracted to the seeds of the cycads in the lawn in front of the main lodge entrance. Their antics gave us much entertainment.

In the front of the lodge was a coral tree which attracted many sunbirds. The most common of which were the larger Scarlet chested sunbird and smaller Collared sunbirds. This was a male Collared sunbird with his purple necklace.

“I believe the world is incomprehensibly beautiful — an endless prospect of magic and wonder.” ~ Ansel Adams

We often saw Nyalas drinking from the pond at the entrance to the main lodge. These female Nyalas were quite habituated to people but would not let anyone get too close.

On our first day, we found the dominant coalition of two males down at the western boundary fence. They were interested in a lioness just other other side of the fence. They responded to the male lions roaring from the other side of the fence with their own powerful roars.

“Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.” ~ John Muir

This male Nyala did not know it but he was only a hundred metres further along the fenceline from the two male lions. Once the lions started roaring he moved deeper into the thick bush.

This Waterbuck bull did not venture too far from the Mkuze river. This is a water dependant species which is not usually found more than two kilometres of a water source. A male Waterbuck is larger than a female and the fur of both sexes is strongly scented by their sweat glands. The Waterbuck was on alert because of the lions in his part of the reserve.

We found a male cheetah along the eastern boundary with the Mkuzi Falls reserve. He was close to another male who was across the fence.

Our guide, Jacques, chose a different place to stop every day for a coffee break. Each one of our stops had a wonderful elevated view across sections of the Mkuze river. This was in the western side of the reserve looking north west on to the adjacent reserve.

“The eye never forgets what the heart has seen.” ~ African Proverb

Looking down on the anti-poaching team camp from one of the surrounding hill tops where we stopped for coffee one morning. The Mkuze river is flowing in front of the camp and there is a large pool of water that extends around the bend. A natural large pool created by the rock formation in this area.

The type of scenery down near the anti-poaching camp along the Mkuze river. It was teeming with life.

A vista of the rolling hills looking south west across the Mkuze river valley onto the reserve.

One afternoon, we returned to the small waterhole where we had seen the lone lioness the day before. We had suspected that the lioness was hanging around the waterhole because she had cubs close by and we were hoping to see the cubs. Instead we found a breeding herd of elephants which had stopped for a drink on their way towards the Mkuze river.

Later that afternoon we surprised the same herd of elephants on route to the river. They stopped, blocking the road, for a good look at us before they were satisfied that we were no threat, then they moved on into the bush.

Our guide, Jacques, correctly anticipated which section of the Mkuze river the elephants were making their way down to. We drove across the river to get a better view of the herd drinking.

“Few can sojourn long within the unspoiled wilderness of a game sanctuary, surrounded on all sides by its confiding animals, without absorbing its atmosphere; the Spirit of the Wild is quick to assert supremacy, and no man of any sensibility can resist her.” ~ James Stevenson-Hamilton

It was late afternoon in the mountainous southern section of the reserve. The whole herd came down to drink, each group taking turns. They wanted to quench their thirst from the fresh water in the flowing river rather than a stagnant waterhole.

Sunset is a magical time in the African bush especially if there are plenty of clouds which add drama and colour to the scene. This was view looking west as we were crossing the Mkuze river over a rocky section.

After the sun has set there is a period of about 20 minutes when the light softens and the colours initially take on a pastel hue before becoming more saturated. After the phase of greatest colour saturation, the light and colour in the beautifully coloured sky fades fast giving way to the darkness. This is an in-between time in the bush which brings about a reverent stillness.

We had a privileged sighting of a leopardess and her year old male cub who emerged from the thick bush next to the road and walked around in the spotlight for about fifteen minutes. Unusual behaviour for such a secretive cat. Nature continually surprises when you least expect it.

We had superb sightings of some of the wildlife in the reserve. The variety of birdlife is astounding and the scenery beautiful in the ever changing light at different times of the day. I sense there is much more to see in terms of both mammals and birdlife. Management of the reserve make a concerted effort to maintain the gravel roads which makes a real difference to the bush experience on the game vehicle. This was complemented by our guide, Jacques’s excellent 4×4 game vehicle handling and his tracker Zakele’s incredible eyesight and knowledge of the bush.

“Everybody needs beauty…places to play in and pray in where nature may heal and cheer and give strength to the body and soul alike.” ~ John Muir

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike