The Mara Triangle is part of the Masai Mara National Reserve which is located in the south west section of Kenya. The Triangle comprises 510 square kilometers, which is approximately one third of the entire Masai Mara National Reserve. The Serengeti is the Triangle’s southern border. The Mara river is its eastern boundary and the Oloololo Escarpment is its western boundary.

“The value of a work lies in its newness: the invention of new forms, or a novel combination of old forms, the discovery of unknown worlds or the exploration of unfamiliar areas in worlds already discovered – revelations, surprises.” ~ Octavio Paz

The Triangle mostly comprises vast open red oat grassy plains dotted with Balanite trees. There are forests along the river courses and inselbergs down in the southern section. I was in the Mara in early October which is low tourist season meaning that there are fewer people. Importantly, this is the start of the short rain season (November and December). At this time there are vast build ups of cumulus and cumulonimbus cloud formations in the afternoons creating colourful, moody and dramatic backgrounds for our wildlife photography.

A view looking west across the edge of the inselbergs towards the Oloololo escarpment. At times in the mornings there is a slight blue haze which disappears as the sun rises and the day warms up. At this point we were not far from the southern border with the Serengeti.

It is not uncommon to find predators, such as lions and Spotted hyaenas, on the road first thing in the morning. This is especially the case if it had been raining the night before. The road is probably the driest place to rest early in the morning. This female spotted hyaena was sucking her cub when our approach by vehicle disturbed her motherly duties.

This family herd of elephants were making their way from the foot of the Oloololo escarpment towards the riverine forest along one of the main drainage lines leading down to the Saparingo swamp near the Mara river.

“We live in an age of universal investigation, and of exploration of the sources of all movements.” ~ Alfred de Vigny

This is one of the few places you could see Masai giraffe browsing on bushes close to the ground. It seems incongruent to see the tallest mammal in the world feeding off the ground. The reason is the vast grassy plains have very few trees on them. The browsers probably feed on the young trees preventing them from growing into full sized trees.

The scene from our breakfast table one morning which our Wild Eye camp had set up for us half way up the Oloololo escarpment. This was close to the scene in the iconic film “Out of Africa” where Denys Finch Hatton and Karen Blixen were picnicking and gazing east over the Masai Mara’s vast plains.

“The vastness of the African wilderness humbles you, reminding you of your place in the grand canvas of life. Here, amidst the towering trees and endless plains, one feels an acute awareness of our connection to the natural world.” ~ Peter Matthiessen

One morning we ventured up north in the Triangle towards the Oloololo gate. There are many side roads which take you down to various crossing points along the Mara river. This is also an area with a higher density of riverine forests. We stopped to watch the antics of the Olive baboon troop which was making its way along the side of the road towards the Mara river. Many of the youngsters were playing while others caught a quiet moment with their respective mothers.

The Maui Maui crossing point on the Mara river. It has a gentle entry and exit gradient on the banks but the crossing is treacherous for the wildebeest and zebras because the river flows fast over a rocky river bed and below the rapids the massive Nile crocodiles watch and wait for victims who have lost their footing and are swept across the rapids. There were no crossings when we were there as the main migration had moved south into the Serengeti three weeks before we arrived.

The Mara Triangle is one of the few places you can see Black rhinos. The stringent anti-poaching efforts do a wonderful job of protecting these endangered pachyderms.

This was a young bull Black rhino who looked very unsure of himself. He must have only recently moved away from his mother and he appeared very nervous and seemed to wander around without any purpose,

Approximately 850 to 900 lions live within the Masai Mara National Reserve and surrounding conservancies. Many of the lions lie in the open because as there are not many trees in the open grass plains. This male was closely guarding his lioness. As a mating pair, lions will mate for several days.

When a lioness is in estrus, she emits a distinct scent that attracts male lions. In the final days before estrus, a male will often follow the female until she is ready to mate. We did see this pair mating but they had their backs to us. Often the male lion bites the lioness on the back of the neck during mating, which triggers ovulation, increasing the chances of conception. The biting behaviour helps the male maintain control and prevent injury during mating.

The mating pair of lions had many onlookers. A herd of plains zebra just stood about 50 metres away and watched the mating pair for about 30 minutes assessing whether they were an immediate threat or not.

The Triangle is also known for its large herds of African buffalo. Herds of more than 100 individuals are regularly seen. The older bulls which have been kicked out of the herd by the younger stronger bulls form groups for protection from lions. The main buffalo herds are usually found near water sources, especially during the dry season. These two Yellow-billed oxpeckers had a smorgasbord of feeding opportunities in the large herd.

The buffalo calves are kept near the centre of the herd for protection from lions and hyaenas. They are reasonably safe during the day but lions and hyaenas are nocturnal predators so the nights can be a dangerous time for these youngsters.

“Don’t ever underestimate an African buffalo. Lions don’t and nor should you. It is fiercely and cooperatively protective. Its speed, strength, and attitude are not immediately apparent.” ~ Mike Haworth

Although the main zebra herds had migrated with the wildebeest there are always small groups which choose to stay in the Triangle. There is enough grazing for small numbers of herbivores outside the migration period in the Triangle. These herbivores also help sustain the predators who are territorial and do not move with the migration.

This is a good example of the large moody thunderstorm building skies with the sun illuminating the foreground in the late afternoon.

“The sky is an infinite movie to me. I never get tired of looking at what’s happening up there.” ~ K. D. Lang

A different male lion watching his lioness closely. They were a mating pair but he was lying about 20 metres from his lioness. They were lying in the grass out in the middle of a huge open grassy plain.

A view looking south west across the inselbergs in the southern section of the Triangle towards the Oloololo escarpment. The vastness and quiet are spellbinding.

Topis are medium­-sized antelopes with a striking reddish-brown to purplish-red coat. This species has a similar body shape to a Hartebeest but is smaller. The Tsessebe (Damaliscus lunatus) of southern Africa and the Topi (Damaliscus jimela) of East Africa are similar enough that they possibly constitute subspecies of a single species. Topi males are often seen chasing each other around and at times in their gallop they are completely airborne. Topis also produce a high stepping fast trot similar to Lipizzaner stallions.

A view looking up a drainage line in one of the large open plains. These drainage lines have many pools of water along their course and provide hiding places for herbivores such as reedbuck. Lions and leopards use them to provide cover when approaching their prey. Individual Spotted hyaenas can often be found lying in one of the pools of water in the heat of the day.

“Don’t forget, beautiful sunsets, need cloudy skies.” ~ Paulo Coelho

In the south of the Mara Triangle, the border between Kenya and Tanzania is demarcated by white border markers. Thankfully there is no fence and the wildlife is able to move back and forth across the border line without impediment. The safari guides treat the border with respect and do not cross it intentionally.

The Mara Triangle is a unique area with vast open grassy plains and big skies. The sense of space enlivens your spirit. Even though the migration had moved south weeks before there is still a diverse range of wildlife to see. The predators have to work much harder once the migration has moved on. Predator sighting and dramatic kills are also more likely at this time.

“If I had to define my philosophy, it would be about exploration, a journey, a story-telling.” ~ Hussein Chalayan

The wildlife and landscape photography is excellent and varied. Every day is different. The animals and birds we see are different, as is the light. Different sections of the Triangle offer varied landscapes. This is one part of our wonderful world I will never tire of.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

On the first afternoon of this Mara trip with Wild Eye, we found four lionesses near the lugga that led down to where we saw Nshipai, a leopardess. There were no wildebeest or zebra to be seen. The migration had moved down into the Serengeti three weeks earlier. The lionesses had managed to kill a Reedbuck, but the pickings were slim for four adult hungry lionesses.

The second morning we found the four lionesses on the move traveling north. One lioness was younger than the other three and was limping.

“If you want to go fast, go alone. If you want to go far, go together.” ~ African Proverb

As the lionesses were walking up the lugga, they would stop and rest every now and then. The lionesses following would catch up with the lead lioness and there were always rubbed heads.

As the sun progressively rose there was beautiful golden morning light which illuminated the lead lioness.

“Our destiny is not written for us, it’s written by us.” ~ Barack Obama

We had driven about a kilometre ahead of the lionesses who were following the course of a lugga. At a small pond of water under two large trees we found two old buffalo bulls. These solitary older male buffalos are sometimes referred to as “dagga boys”. The word dagga comes from one of the African languages which means mud. The reason these bulls are either solitary or in small groups is because they have been forced out of the herd by the younger bulls. “Dagga Boys ” are known to be bad tempered and are best left alone. These two old buffalo bulls were not covered in “dagga” or mud because the rains had begun in the Mara and the downpours were heavy enough to wash all the dagga away. The old bulls love wallowing in the mud as it has a cooling effect, and the mud makes it more difficult for biting insects to get into the soft skin areas.

“You will be defined not just by what you achieve, but by how you survive.” ~ Sheryl Sandberg

The two buffalo bulls had sated their thirst at the pond and were walking away when the lionesses approached. All three of us (photographers) in the game vehicle said there was no chance that the four lionesses would take on two large buffalo bulls, especially when one lioness was limping.

The buffalo bulls stopped to assess what the lionesses were going to do. They just stood there as the lionesses draw adjacent to them. Initially, the lionesses made no attempt to chase the buffalos. Then unexpectedly, and for no apparent reason, one of the buffalo bulls bolted back down towards the pond where they had been drinking minutes before. The second buffalo bull followed. The buffalos running triggered the chase response from two of the larger lionesses.

The second buffalo bull initially followed his partner. One lioness gave chase seeking to separate the bulls.

“There is no greater danger than underestimating your opponent.” ~ Lao Tzu

The chasing lionesses managed to trap one bull in a hollow in the lugga. This badly restricted the bull’s ability spin around and protect itself.

Both lionesses managed to get a grip of the bull’s hindquarters, one on its rump and the second biting the tendons on one of its back legs. The other two lionesses quickly piled into help. The second buffalo bull saw what was happening and ran left and crossed the lugga to stand about thirty metres on the other side of the pond.

“Talent wins games, but teamwork and intelligence win championships.” ~ Michael Jordan

The caught buffalo bull was bellowing but his partner stood some distance away and did not try to help his trapped partner. We wondered why but it was probably because of the restricted position the first bull was caught in. It was not in the open and there was very little space to be able to attack the lionesses.

It must have taken the four lionesses about twenty minutes to get the bull onto the ground.

Without help, once the bull was lying on the ground it was just a matter of time before the lioness had choked the life out of it with a strong jaw clamp to the neck to restrict the windpipe and suffocate the bull.

“Think ahead to not get cornered.” ~ Mike Haworth

It must have taken another ten to fifteen minutes before the buffalo bull was dead. The other buffalo bull walked away knowing that there was nothing he could do, and he was reasonably sure the lionesses were not going to follow him as they were now very tired.

“Determined and sustained effort are crucial ingredients for success.” ~ Mike Haworth

Once the lionesses had killed the buffalo bull, they just lay around getting their breath back after the enormous effort required to kill this large bull.

“Character cannot be developed in ease and quiet. Only through experience of trial and suffering can the soul be strengthened, vision cleared, ambition inspired and success achieved.” ~Helen Keller

Killing the buffalo is one thing, getting through its hide is another. A buffalo bull’s hide is thick, around its neck the skin can be as thick as two inches (50mm) in places, which protects it during battles with other bulls for dominance. The softest places and where the skin is thinnest is the belly and between the bull’s back legs.

The lionesses were clearly hungry so the buffalo kill was opportune and would provide plenty of meat for the next few days. That assumed the lionesses had the buffalo carcass to themselves and would not have visitors such as a large pack of hyaenas or coalition of male lions.

On day three, we returned to the buffalo kill to find three large male lions dominating the carcass and the lionesses lying some distance away. One female tried repeatedly to feed on the carcass, but the males were having none of it.

The oldest and largest of the males had a black mane and a cut below his left eye. It looked as if a claw had narrowly missed his eye. He would not let the lionesses feed on the carcass when he was next to it.

Once the oldest male had his fill he walked over and drank from the stream flowing out of the pool next to the kill.

Once the oldest male had finished the other two males tucked into the carcass. They too would not share with the females.

“The lion’s courage is forged in the crucible of adversity, and its roar is the anthem of triumph over challenges.” ~ Rashida Rowe

There was lots of growling and snarling when the two males were feeding on the same part of the buffalo carcass, but the snarls never erupted into any form of fighting.

Once the males had finished feeding they moved about 20 to 30 metres from the carcass and lay down and slept.

It was notable that the only competition the lions had was from a pair of Black-backed jackals and a few vultures. We never saw a hyaena. This was probably because of the male lions.

Once the males had finished there was almost nothing left of the buffalo carcass. It took about four days for the lions to completely finish the buffalo carcass. Once finished the lionesses and male lions went their separate ways.

“Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.” ~ Gary Snyder

It was fascinating to see all the actions and interactions from the start of the hunt to when the carcass had been finished. The three photographers in our game vehicle all smiled at the end of the saga and said we certainly did not judge those lionesses correctly. The crux of the kill seemed to be that the lionesses trapped the bull in a hollow in the lugga which made it very difficult for him to whirl around and protect himself and also gave his partner no room to properly defend him.

“At the start of a game drive you are full of anticipation. On the drive the visual beauty and scents of the bush make your senses swim. Nature is unpredictable but reveals a little more of itself each time creating fascination and building more mystery.” ~ Mike Haworth

One of the most intriguing aspects is that all of us in the game vehicle had been in the bush and seen many lion hunts and we still got our assessment of their probable success wrong. Part of what makes wildlife photography so interesting is that you come away marveling at the tenacity and strategy of lion hunts. No one wants to get in the way of a hungry lioness.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike.

We were based at Wild Eye’s Enkishui camp in the southern end of the Mara Triangle. The camp is located on the western bank of the Mara river about two kilometres up river from the Purungat gate.

I really enjoy late September-October in the Mara because the crowds have disappeared and the skies are full of cumulus and cumulonimbus cloud formations in the afternoons creating wonderful backgrounds for our wildlife photography.

“Nature, especially wilderness, has a calming effect on the mind” ~ Percy Fernandez

What was unusual about this trip was the migration had left three weeks before we arrived. I had never seen the plains of the Mara Triangle with so few herbivores. But nature is endlessly fascinating. With so few herbivores, the predators had to work much harder to find food.

I had more leopard sightings this trip to the Mara Triangle than all my previous trips combined. On the first afternoon we were out in the Triangle and found this leopardess, called Nshipai, walking down to the bank of the Mara river. There was plenty of water around so she must have been hunting.

While walking through the grass and among croton bushes this leopardess was on high alert. There could have been anything sleeping in the grass from predator to prey.

Although there are plenty of large trees to escape up into, leopards need to be aware of lions and hyaenas in this area. This leopardess was alert and often looked back when she heard something.

“I look closely for moments like a fleeting tender touch or expression that is character-revealing” ~ Alison Langevad

The next day we were privileged to see four lionesses take down a large buffalo bull in the morning. This experience will be the subject of my next post. That afternoon we returned to the buffalo kill and spent most of the afternoon watching the interactions between the lionesses. Once the sun started to set we began to drive back to camp. It was late, the skies were darkening and it looked as though it was about to rain. Our guide, Jimmy, saw movement in the grass on the other side of a lugga (drainage line). It was the leopardess, Nshipai, feeding on a Yellow-billed stork she caught in the lugga. Leopards are superb hunters and will adapt when their normal prey is not available.

This leopardess was well hidden in the grass alongside the lugga and she was dead quiet while feeding on the stork.

Once she had eaten all she could of the stork’s carcass, she got up, had a careful look around her before walking away from the area.

Nshipai began to walk up towards the ridge when it started to rain. She promptly turned around and began casually walking back down toward the lugga. For a short while as she walking down to the lugga in light rain, there was sun on the area she was walking in and the backdrop was a dark blue sky, pregnant with rain and a beautiful rainbow. It is not often you get this photographic combination.

“It all ultimately comes down to showing respect to nature and understanding the species you want to photograph” ~ Riddhi Mukherjee

Every now and then she would stop while it was raining to see if the rain had flushed anything out of its hiding place. Leopards make use of their very long tails for a variety of different functions. Its position and shape expresses their mood, it acts as a form of communication and for enhanced movement. Their prehensile-like tails act like an additional limb, allowing leopards to increase their balance when climbing and giving more ability to turn sharply when chasing prey, like a rudder.

This leopardess nonchalantly walked back down the hill towards the lugga as it started to rain. The light was changing constantly as the storm built up.

The leopardess eventually walked down into the lugga to sit under an overhanging shelf to wait out the storm. She walked straight to the overhang so must have known this area intimately. She groomed herself while waiting for the storm to abate.

“I appreciate these moments where I can get away from life and focus on living”~ TJ Thorne

The next afternoon, it was dusk and we were driving back to camp after watching the male lions feeding on the buffalo carcass. Lying in the grass about 20 metres off the road this leopardess lay flat in the grass hoping that we would not see her. Our guide Jimmy saw her first.

After she realised that we had seen her, she relaxed and sat up. She quietly looked around listening attentively to every sound.

Our guide thought this female had two cubs which she had hidden in the lugga close to the road. She stayed in the vicinity for the entire time we were in the Triangle and there was not a lot of prey around so she probably had a cub hidden around there.

“To approach animals in their most natural, native settings. I have to understand the mysteries of their behaviour. With careful preparation, I can show the animal in its best light, demonstrating its beauty, strength, and intelligence “
~ Paul Nicklen

After about fifteen minutes she yawned, got up and stretched. It looked like she was about to start her nocturnal hunting and territory marking.

By now it was almost dark and she walked out of the grass onto the road. She sat on the road and looked around for a while before deciding which direction to go off hunting.

On our second last day we met Shujaa, the Swahili word that means brave or courageous. It also refers to someone who is a warrior and he looked the part. This was the largest male leopard I have ever seen and looked to be the size of a decent sized lioness.

Shujaa’s muzzle showed some recent wounds from deep raking claws. This was probably a territorial battle which judging from the way he was walking around, he must have won. This male was huge, muscular and had a dewlap to match.

“I think a photograph, of whatever it might be – a landscape, a person – requires personal involvement. That means knowing your subject, not just snapping at what’s in front of you” ~ Frans Lanting

Shujaa had a somewhat demonic look which was due to the healed wounds around his eyes, on the bridge of his nose and upper lip.

We first found Shujaa early in the morning walking through dew soaked grass. He was alert but exuded confidence which appeared to come from his size and experience.

For me it was very unusual to see any leopard, and particularly a male leopard, way out in the open with no trees within a couple of hundred metres. Shujaa walked through the Mara grass with absolute confidence.

“Nature is my muse, and it’s been my passion” ~ Frans Lanting

Although Shujaa appeared quite comfortable walking across a large open plain, he positioned himself to see down into luggas from a vantage point. We presumed there were two reasons for this. Firstly, any leopard would likely stick to the cover provided by the luggas and secondly this is where he could catch birds and where Reedbuck preferred to forage.

It was not only the size but the look of this male leopard which caught my imagination. He was probably the father of Nshipai’s cubs.

“A great photograph is one that fully expresses what one feels, in the deepest sense, about what is being photographed “ ~ Ansel Adams

This trip was different and memorable. The main reason being that the wildebeest and zebra migration had moved on south into the Serengeti about three weeks earlier. This was probably the reason we were privileged to have more leopard sightings.

Leopards are survivors because they are adaptable and will eat almost anything. A leopard will hunt anything from antelope, baboons and monkeys to hares and hyraxes to warthogs, porcupines and reptiles, rodents and birds. It will even feed on carrion and fish. When and where possible leopards will lift their kill into a high tree to prevent it from being stolen by lions, hyenas or wild dogs. They are strong enough to be able to carry up to three times their body weight. You have to marvel at their adaptability.

“Where your passion meets your talent, that is where you want to be.” ~ Roie Galitz

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

In October last year I joined a photographic group at Wild Eye’s Enkishui camp. This camp is sited on the banks of the Mara river about two kilometres up river from the Purungat gate and rangers’ camp. There camp is located in a croton grove which attracts a variety of small wildlife.

The camp was initially sited at this location to prevent the high level of wildebeest deaths when they crossed the Mara at this point. The carcasses floated down river and got snagged on the rocks near the Purungat bridge making the smell from July to September at this point of the migration unbearable. The position of the camp has worked extremely well and the wildebeest rarely try to cross the river close to the camp and there is no smell of rotting carcasses.

“Dawn was breaking. The early morning air was brisk. The game vehicle doors were open inviting us to climb in. The sense of anticipation was building knowing we would see new and unexpected wonders while wandering.” ~ Mike Haworth

We were usually up and drinking at cup of coffee before 6h00 to be ready to leave camp at 6h00. At this time the sun is just starting to crest over the horizon. We were usually out and about in the Triangle until 12h00 at which time we returned to camp to download our images and have lunch.

The game vehicles and guides were ready and waiting for us at 6h00 just as it was starting to brighten up. We were often treated the most beautiful sunrises. Interestingly the sunrises and sunsets have a yellower hue to them compared to the orange rust colours in southern Africa. The latter is drier so the added dust probably alters the colour of the sky.

This is the time when we can walk around the camp quietly to see the smaller mammals and a wonderful variety of birds. Quite close to my tent was a family of dwarf mongooses which had become habituated to all the human movement around the camp.

At the entrance to path leading to fellow photographer, Joe Knapman’s tent, was a Collared sunbird nest. Both the male and female regularly visited the nest.

First thing in the morning, the beautiful song of the White-browed robin-chat could be heard around camp. At midday they were busy foraging in the leaf litter close to my tent.

Very close to the White-browed robin-chat was female Nubian woodpecker busying herself looking for and finding grubs and insects in and under the bark of a fallen tree.

It was interesting to see a pod of hippos sunning themselves on the bank of the Mara river opposite our camp. When it got too hot they simply rolled back into the river. At night you could hear the hippos snorting to each and they would often be foraging around the tents. This noise usually woke me up but the hippos never got tangled in the tents’ guy ropes.

These Dwarf mongooses were very busy and inquisitive around the camp. This species is diurnal so forage during the day in grass and tree undergrowth for flying and crawling insects. The family lives in an old anthill near the tents.

On a few afternoons after lunch as we were preparing to head out game viewing for the afternoon, the storm clouds would build creating a wonderful atmosphere as there was a palpable feeling of an impending storm.

“The eye never forgets what the heart has seen.” ~ African Proverb

A view of the Mara river at last light when we returned to camp. We usually gathered around the camp fire to have a drink and tell stories of what we had seen. The game vehicles tended to go in different directions to ensure better coverage and if a special sighting was found the guide would radio to the others the location and within half and hour the other vehicles would arrive at the sighting.

Wandering through the croton grove yielded some unexpected visitors. I was delighted to find this Brown-throated Wattle-eye in the camp environs.

“Certainly, travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.” ~ Mary Ritter Beard

In the same part of the croton grove as the Wattle-eye, I found a male Paradise flycatcher. Trying to photograph these flighty small birds in the crotons requires a high level of patience and attention.

One evening, the Wild Eye camp staff set up dinner on the bank of the Mara river with this view. It was essentially the other side of the bend in the river and another kilometre or so downriver was the Purungat gate and bridge. It always amazed me how well the staff set up this type of bush restaurant with ambience, full bar and piping hot tasty food.

While it is always interesting and productive to go out in the mornings and afternoons in the game vehicle we do not usually get the chance to wander around the camp in the early morning from 6h300 to 8h30 when there is good soft light and the birds are very active. Nevertheless, the wandering at lunchtime can be fun and productive.

“You cannot leave Africa, Africa said. It is always with you, there inside your head. Our rivers run in currents in the swirl of your thumbprints; our drumbeats counting out your pulse; our coastline the silhouette of your soul.” ~ Bridget Dore

The next post will be of leopards we saw in the southern section of the Mara Triangle.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

We spent four days in Manyoni private game reserve last September. Manyoni private game reserve lies in the heart of Zululand and its management has a strong focus on endangered species conservation. This focus is on endangered and priority wildlife species, including the African wild dog, cheetah, rhino, lion, elephant, leopard, pangolin and vulture species.

“I appreciate these moments where I can get away from life and focus on living” ~ TJ Thorne

We chose to stay at Rhino River lodge. This lodge is sited in the south eastern section of the reserve on the southern bank of the Msunduzi river. This is a seasonal river which flows into the Mkuze river. Manyoni private game reserve has over 70 mammal species and just over 450 recorded bird species. It is known as one of the best birding spots in Southern Africa. This game reserve covers 23 000 hectares consisting of a varied landscape of mountains, open plains and dense riverine woodlands.

“Nature is the greatest teacher. It teaches us patience, humility, and respect for all living things.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

The first image is of a female Red duiker. This species is smaller than the Common duiker. The upper parts are a deep chestnut-red and the lower parts of the flanks and under parts are a pale chestnut colour. The nape and throat turn ash-grey as the animal ages. Both sexes carry short, straight horns. The horns have coarse basal rings and longitudinal striations, but are smooth towards the tips.

There are two small dams on the west side of the reserve near the Msunduzi river. It is a shady serene area which is home to many bird species. Two juvenile Black crown night-herons seem unfazed by a Nile crocodile warming itself outside the water.

A Red duiker foraging under large Ana and fever trees on the bank of the Msunduzi river. Red Duiker forages mostly during the early mornings and late afternoons and prefers freshly fallen leaves, fruits and flowers from forest canopies.

A small herd of Plain’s zebra standing in the shade on a hot afternoon. The reserve falls under the Mkuze Valley Low-veld vegetation type, varying from open Savanna thorn-veld, bush-veld to riverine woodland, characterized by Acacia and Marula tree species.

“I am not the best, I am not one of the best, But every time I will do my best.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

Driving along the dry river bed bathed in warm late afternoon light. The reserve contains several protected tree species such as Torchwood, Shepherd’s tree, Matumi, Marula, and White milkwood.

A Nyala bull was drinking from a small stream of water flowing in the Msunduzi river. This species inhabits thickets within dense and dry savanna woodlands. It forages mainly during daylight hours. Among antelope species, the sexes are distinguished as bulls and cows for the larger species and the smaller varieties use the terms ram and ewe. In the case of Nyala the male is referred to as a bull while the female is called a ewe.

The Nyala’s pelage is rufous brown in females and juveniles. It is dark brown or slate grey in adult males, often with a bluish tinge. Females and young males have ten or more white vertical stripes on their sides. Both sexes have a dorsal mane of hair running right from the back of the head to the end of the tail. Males have another line of hair along the midline of their chest and belly. Both males and females have a white chevron between their eyes and a bushy tail white underside.

An late afternoon scene down at the river with filtered light. The large fig and fever trees filter the light and create cast a blue hue in the shadow areas. This kudu cow was walking slowly down to the river to drink. She was very cautious given the numerous predictors which prefer the shading river habitat.

“Nature, especially wilderness, has a calming effect on the mind” ~ Percy Fernandez

A view of a herd of impala grazing peacefully in the warm late afternoon sunlight. The herd was feeding on the grass along the dry sand river bed under large acacia and fever trees. Although the river bed looked to be sandy and dry, the water table must have been high as the grass was lush and there were patches of water at the surface of the river bed.

On several occasions we found the coalition of two large male lions. These males looked to have been around six to seven years old and appeared to dominate the south western section of the reserve. We first found these males near the river.

This old male lion was not part of the coalition but seem to spend a lot of time on his own scavenging. We did not get close but assumed his teeth must be worn down.

This next image shows the terrain in the southern western section of the reserve. The two males had walked north about five kilometres. They must have been patrolling their territory. Presumably they did most of their patrolling in the cool of night and at dawn and dusk, so were fast asleep in mid afternoon.

Down along the Msunduzi river we found a lioness and her cubs. On this occasion we were having a sundowner on an elevated bank admiring the beauty of the river scene with all the huge fig trees, torchwoods, and fever trees when this lioness walked passed below us on the river bed. She had a good look at us to see what we were doing.

The lioness looked in prime condition and was licking the blood off her mouth after having fed on a warthog she had caught. The cubs tucked into the remains but it was not possible to get decent images of them.

Two relaxed warthog lying in the sun in the afternoon. These warthogs felt safe in the confines of the camp. They must have taken up residence in the camp some time ago as they seemed quite habituated to all the comings and goings of the staff and guest in camp.

Manyoni is known for its conservation efforts. We did not see wild dogs, brown hyaena or honey badgers but on two occasions we found a coalition of three cheetahs. Our first sighting was down near the river in surprisingly thick riverine bush. The coalition had caught and killed an impala and were feeding on it when we arrived. There was always one member of the coalition on look out while the other two fed as fast as they could.

“It is my intention to present -through the medium of photography- intuitive observations of the natural world which may have meaning to the spectators “ ~ Ansel Adams

Our second sighting of the coalition was away from the river in an thornveld area. They were hunting in the last light of the afternoon and were on high alert because of the proximity of lions. The cheetah population in the reserve is estimated at 25 individuals. The cheetah reintroduction has been a success to the point where the reserve is now in the position to contribute to the metapopulation by moving cheetah to new reserves.

We spent four enjoyable and photographically productive days in the Manyoni private game reserve. Its was early spring in September in South Africa at that time. It was warm but not too hot during the days and pleasantly cool in the evenings. We still have much more to see in this reserve so will be back.

“Life is a journey which never lets you know when and where it will end.” ~ Biju Karakkonam

Manyoni private game reserve is protected with the highest protection status, highlighting the importance of the
ecosystems contained within the reserve.

“Never give up on a dream just because of the time it will take to accomplish it. The time will pass anyway.” ~ Earl Nightingale

The diversity of ecosystems provides a wide range of scenes and attracts different birds and mammals. We just scratched the surface of what this game reserve has to offer.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

Manyoni private game reserve lies in the heart of Zululand. Initially formed in 2005 as part of the WWF Black rhino range expansion project, Manyoni has become one of the premier safari destinations in Kwa-Zulu Natal with a strong focus on endangered species conservation. This work focuses on endangered and priority wildlife species, including the African Wild Dog, Cheetah, Rhino, Lion, Elephant, Leopard, Pangolin and Vulture species.

Manyoni was established in 2004 when the land owners agreed to take down their fences to create one larger reserve. The reserve extends over 23 000 hectares and hosts several safari lodges. We chose to stay at Rhino River lodge. This lodge is sited on the southern bank of the Msunduze river. This is a seasonal river which flows into the Mkuze river.

Manyoni private game reserve has over 70 mammal species and just over 450 recorded bird species. It is known as one of the best birding spots in Southern Africa.

“Photography is a love affair with life.” ~ Burk Uzzle

One of the interesting aspects of visiting different wildlife areas is that you get to see unique species such as the Southern Crested guineafowl. I had struggled to get a decent image of a Southern Crested guineafowl in Pafuri and Amakhosi. When I got to Rhino River lodge there was a group of about six just walking around on the lawn outside the main lodge.

A large-bodied, small-headed, black gamebird perfectly lined with rows of hundreds of bluish-white spots. It has a unique-looking curly crest above the naked face, which features an ivory-coloured beak and a blood-red eye. The facial skin color varies geographically. The Southern Crested guineafowl has a blue-gray face with a large white patch on the back of the neck. A broad band around the base of the neck is an unspotted black colour. It prefers forest and thickets, where it forages on the ground for berries, seeds, and other plant matter. (Source: ebird.org)

There are visual differences between the subspecies. The Eastern Crested guineafowl also has a bare skinned face and neck but its neck and nape is grey-blue and its neck and bare skin around the eyes is red. Its throat is also has a red downward stripe. The eastern species also has a black crest but it is not as curly as the Southern species.

“The beauty of the natural world lies in the details.” ~ Natalie Angier

A juvenile Black-crowned night-heron standing on one leg next to a thicket which housed its nest. This young night-heron seemed completely unfazed about the large crocodile sunning itself nearby.

A young Water Thick-knee (also called a Dikkop) resting in the shade near the Night-heron on the bank of a small dam. This species is usually found close to water but is nomadic, moving in response to changing water levels. This species of Thick-knee looks quite different to its Spotted cousin. It is distinguished by its distinct grey wing-bar which is edged with black bars. It has a beige chest with brown streaks which transitions to white towards the belly. It also has a longer and mostly black beak with yellow nostrils.

A Green-backed heron, now called the Striated Heron, is a small heron with a greenish dark grey back and iridescent green-grey wing feathers which have a yellow edge. Its long beak is bicoloured where the maxilla is black and the mandible is yellow on its underside. It has a yellow eye and a yellow ring around its eyes and across the top of its beak. Its legs are yellow to orange in colour. This species feeds on fish and it is known to use bait to catch fish. It also feeds on frogs and a range of aquatic insects.

A Brown-headed kingfisher keenly watching out for insects to prey on from its perch in a thorn tree. The Brown-headed can be mistaken with the Striped kingfisher but the key differences are that the Striped is smaller, its head its brown with white stripes and its beak is bicoloured with the maxilla which is dark brown and its mandible is a red colour. The Brown-headed species has a brown head, and a beige band which extends around from its throat to its nape. Its upper wing coverts are black and its primary and secondary wing feathers are a vivid turquoise.

At long last I managed to get a few images of a Gorgeous bushshrike. Gorgeous bush-shrikes are seldom seen despite being a commonly occurring species, as they mostly dwell in densely vegetated riverine woodlands. It is a shy bird which tends to stay hidden in the bush and will stay still and quiet in thick vegetation if approached. As with all bushshrikes, it skulks and has a distinctive call that sounds like “du-do-whit.” Similar to most bushshrikes, it feeds predominately on insects.

“The two most engaging powers of a photograph are to make new things familiar and familiar things new.” ~ William Thackeray

This species of bushshrike is stunningly coloured with an olive coloured back, a yellow eyebrow, vivid red throat, a black chest band and red under tail coverts, and black rectrices. Its belly varies in colour according to its location. In Zululand its belly transitions from its black chest band from red to yellow to olive green and back to yellow at the bird’s vent.

A male Chin-spotted batis had caught an insect in the sweet acacia. The male has a black breast band whereas the female has a clearly defined rufous chin-spot and breast band, and rufous flanks.

A Bearded scrub-robin foraging in the leaf litter in a flower bed next to the lodge. This species is identified by its white eyebrow with a black border. It has a white throat and black gular stripe. It has a pale orange breast and flanks and white belly. The Bearded scrub-robin inhabits dense woodlands, thickets and riparian forests, and is often seen flicking through the leaf litter on the ground for insects and spiders.

A male Southern black tit seen outside our room. He was very busy in the tree looking for insects. This species of tit normally forages as a pair but I did not see the female which has greyer underparts.

A female Black-headed heron breaks off sticks to build a nest in a tree overhanging a small dam. At first glance, the Black-headed heron looks similar to Grey heron but the former has a black head, ear coverts and black nape. Its beak is slaty grey as are its legs. This species seldom hunts in water and is more often seen hunting in the grass areas near water. It is a highly capable hunter taking anything from insects, to small mammals and birds.

“Wildlife photography is a matter of patience, focus and timing. If we learn these, we learn life.” ~ Unknown

A Grey heron fishing in the water of the small dam close to the Black-headed heron. The Grey heron has a broad black band which extends from its forehead to its nape and its lower mandible and legs are pinkish yellow. It has an ability to stand motionless for long periods while fishing.

A Yellow-billed stork fishing in the same small dam as the Grey heron. In bright sunshine this stork will often lift one wing to create a shady patch on the water which attracts fish. In lower light this stork fishes with its bill immersed and slightly open, whilst stirring mud with its foot. Its beak is highly tactile, and this stork reacts extremely quickly to the slightest detection of prey.

A Little egret standing still in the water while the wind blows and disturbs its hunting. This is a small egret, larger than a Cattle egret. It has a slender GISS with a long black beak and black legs with yellow feet ( golden slippers). It looks like it put its feet in a tin of yellow road marking paint. This egret’s plumage is white all over and the male grows long white plumes on the back of its head and neck during the breeding season.

A Woolly-necked stork hunting in the soft mud next to a small dam. It was a hot afternoon so looked to be trying to cool itself by flapping its wings.

Together with the Southern crested guineafowl and the Gorgeous bushshrike, a Pink-throated twinspot was another special sighting. This species of twinspot is a small rotund type of waxbill. The male has a guava-pink face and throat, and a brown crown, while the female has mostly whitish-beige underparts. It has a mauve eye ring and its belly is black. Its flanks are black with white dots. It has a blue-grey beak and legs. This particular male had lost his tail feathers.

The female lacks the guava-pink breast, neck, nape and face colouring. Both sexes have pink upper tail coverts. The distribution of this species is restricted to southern Mozambique, eastern eSwatini, north-eastern KwaZulu-Natal, and eastern Mpumalanga, South Africa. The name twinspot comes from its white spots on both flanks.

A lone Hooded vulture. This is a small mostly brown vulture. Its has a relatively small head where its face is bare skinned and normally white but flushes with pink when agitated. It has a long pinkish ivory coloured beak with a sharp downward hooked tip. Being small, this vulture tends to scavenge on the periphery of vulture feeding frenzy picking up scraps dropped by other vultures. This species has been in steep decline since 2000 and is now listed at “critically endangered”.

“Wildlife is something which man cannot construct. Once it is gone, it is gone forever. Man can rebuild a pyramid, but he can’t rebuild ecology, or a giraffe.” ~ Joy Adamson

By mistake we chased this Tawny eagle off its scrub hare kill. It was feeding on a game trail in the grass next to the road and we only saw it at the last moment as we were driving past.

This Tawny was looking around to see if there was anything coming to steal its prey. Our guide wisely did not stay too long otherwise the Tawny might have lost its meal to a wily jackal.

This was a small selection of birds that we saw while wandering around the Manyoni private game reserve. In the second and last post of the reserve I will show some of the mammals and scenery we were privileged to see.

“Every sunset gives me a hope to live.
It reminds me,
You have capture more with your heart.
It reminds me
you are not alone,
surrounded by a beautiful world,
always there for you.”
― Biju Karakkonam

The northern section of Kwa-Zulu Natal has an incredible variety of flora and fauna and is one of south Africa most important wildlife areas. It is our intention to do a lot more exploring in this area in future.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

This is the third and last post from our recent trip to Amakhosi private game reserve. Each morning at the safari lodge we rose at 5h30 to be ready for the morning game drive at 6h00 after a cup of coffee and a muffin. The mornings were brisk at it was the beginning of spring. On some of the morning game drives shortly after leaving the lodge we crossed the Mkuze river with mist rising from the river in the foreground and the glow of the sunrise in the background.

“The sun shines not on us but in us. The rivers flow not past, but through us. Thrilling, tingling, vibrating every fibre and cell of the substance of our bodies, making them glide and sing. The trees wave and the flowers bloom in our bodies as well as our souls, and every bird song, wind song, and tremendous storm song of the rocks in the heart of the mountains is our song, our very own, and sings our love.” – John Muir

The game drive took us to the southern part of the game reserve where we had some wonderful views of the area. This was the view from a section of the Mkuze river just east of the safari lodge. The north and eastern section of the reserve has undulating terrain and by contrast the southern section is quite mountainous.

A view from the hill on the opposite side of the Mkuze river to the safari lodge. The wellness centre is visible on the left hand side of the image and the main lodge on the right hand side. The Mkuze river is obscured by the steep rocky cliff directly in front of the lodge.

In the flatter sections of the game reserve, we found a female giraffe and her calf. A giraffe calf is usually up on its legs within 20 minutes of birth and nursing within a few hours. This calf looked to be around six months old. Our ranger often watched which way the giraffe was looking to give a possible sign of a big cat.

Up river along the Mkuze from the main lodge is “IsiGodlo” meaning the chief’s residence. It is a private house positioned on a rocky cliff directly above the Mkuze river. I never visited this house but I imagine the views are spectacular.

Often while waiting to start the game drive we were greeted by Purple crested turacos which were attracted to the seeds of the cycads in the lawn in front of the main lodge entrance. Their antics gave us much entertainment.

In the front of the lodge was a coral tree which attracted many sunbirds. The most common of which were the larger Scarlet chested sunbird and smaller Collared sunbirds. This was a male Collared sunbird with his purple necklace.

“I believe the world is incomprehensibly beautiful — an endless prospect of magic and wonder.” ~ Ansel Adams

We often saw Nyalas drinking from the pond at the entrance to the main lodge. These female Nyalas were quite habituated to people but would not let anyone get too close.

On our first day, we found the dominant coalition of two males down at the western boundary fence. They were interested in a lioness just other other side of the fence. They responded to the male lions roaring from the other side of the fence with their own powerful roars.

“Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.” ~ John Muir

This male Nyala did not know it but he was only a hundred metres further along the fenceline from the two male lions. Once the lions started roaring he moved deeper into the thick bush.

This Waterbuck bull did not venture too far from the Mkuze river. This is a water dependant species which is not usually found more than two kilometres of a water source. A male Waterbuck is larger than a female and the fur of both sexes is strongly scented by their sweat glands. The Waterbuck was on alert because of the lions in his part of the reserve.

We found a male cheetah along the eastern boundary with the Mkuzi Falls reserve. He was close to another male who was across the fence.

Our guide, Jacques, chose a different place to stop every day for a coffee break. Each one of our stops had a wonderful elevated view across sections of the Mkuze river. This was in the western side of the reserve looking north west on to the adjacent reserve.

“The eye never forgets what the heart has seen.” ~ African Proverb

Looking down on the anti-poaching team camp from one of the surrounding hill tops where we stopped for coffee one morning. The Mkuze river is flowing in front of the camp and there is a large pool of water that extends around the bend. A natural large pool created by the rock formation in this area.

The type of scenery down near the anti-poaching camp along the Mkuze river. It was teeming with life.

A vista of the rolling hills looking south west across the Mkuze river valley onto the reserve.

One afternoon, we returned to the small waterhole where we had seen the lone lioness the day before. We had suspected that the lioness was hanging around the waterhole because she had cubs close by and we were hoping to see the cubs. Instead we found a breeding herd of elephants which had stopped for a drink on their way towards the Mkuze river.

Later that afternoon we surprised the same herd of elephants on route to the river. They stopped, blocking the road, for a good look at us before they were satisfied that we were no threat, then they moved on into the bush.

Our guide, Jacques, correctly anticipated which section of the Mkuze river the elephants were making their way down to. We drove across the river to get a better view of the herd drinking.

“Few can sojourn long within the unspoiled wilderness of a game sanctuary, surrounded on all sides by its confiding animals, without absorbing its atmosphere; the Spirit of the Wild is quick to assert supremacy, and no man of any sensibility can resist her.” ~ James Stevenson-Hamilton

It was late afternoon in the mountainous southern section of the reserve. The whole herd came down to drink, each group taking turns. They wanted to quench their thirst from the fresh water in the flowing river rather than a stagnant waterhole.

Sunset is a magical time in the African bush especially if there are plenty of clouds which add drama and colour to the scene. This was view looking west as we were crossing the Mkuze river over a rocky section.

After the sun has set there is a period of about 20 minutes when the light softens and the colours initially take on a pastel hue before becoming more saturated. After the phase of greatest colour saturation, the light and colour in the beautifully coloured sky fades fast giving way to the darkness. This is an in-between time in the bush which brings about a reverent stillness.

We had a privileged sighting of a leopardess and her year old male cub who emerged from the thick bush next to the road and walked around in the spotlight for about fifteen minutes. Unusual behaviour for such a secretive cat. Nature continually surprises when you least expect it.

We had superb sightings of some of the wildlife in the reserve. The variety of birdlife is astounding and the scenery beautiful in the ever changing light at different times of the day. I sense there is much more to see in terms of both mammals and birdlife. Management of the reserve make a concerted effort to maintain the gravel roads which makes a real difference to the bush experience on the game vehicle. This was complemented by our guide, Jacques’s excellent 4×4 game vehicle handling and his tracker Zakele’s incredible eyesight and knowledge of the bush.

“Everybody needs beauty…places to play in and pray in where nature may heal and cheer and give strength to the body and soul alike.” ~ John Muir

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

Helen and I visited Amakhosi private game reserve in September 2023. This was the start of spring in southern Africa so most of the migrants had yet to arrive and it was dry. The rains usually only arrive in late November or early December. Despite this, there is a perennial flow of water in the Mkuze river which courses through the reserve. The Mkuze river is known for its wonderful diversity of birdlife. Around 420 bird species can be seen in this reserve. There is something for every wildlife enthusiast from the “big five”, birdlife and frogging in the wet season. As a wildlife photographer I am interested in all wildlife.

There is a remarkable diversity of birdlife around the lodge. At breakfast, after the morning game drive, I found myself regularly getting up from the table to photograph new birds which showed themselves in the trees next to the pool and above the deck in front of the lodge.

“In the cathedral of the wild a glorious language is revealed in every breath.” ~ Robbie George

We saw this Orange breasted bushshrike outside our room at the safari lodge. I have often heard these small bushshrikes but seldom saw them as they are normally found at the top of the tree canopy. Thankfully each species of bushshrike has a distinctive call. Once we heard the call we started to look for the vividly coloured bushshrike. This bushshrike has a vivid yellow forehead, throat, belly and rectrices. It has a black bland across its eye from its beak to ear coverts. Its nape and the top section of its back is grey which wraps around to its ear coverts. Its lower back and wings are a green-yellow colour which blends well with the colour of the tree’s leaves.

This bushshrike is not a migrant and is highly active constantly moving in the branches of tree foraging for insects such as beetles, caterpillars, bees, ants and wasps.

This Red-billed firefinch is a small gregarious seed eater and is often seen on the ground foraging for seeds alongside Blue waxbills. This male has a pinkish-scarlet forehead, face throat and breast. Its uppertail coverts are scarlet as are its rectrices. Its nape, back, wings and belly are brown tinged with scarlet.

Next to the lodge is an inviting swimming pool. At the deep end it has a fountain flowing across a large boulder which attracts many birds to drink. One of the regular visitors was a group of Cape white-eyes. These small insectivores have yellow plumage with a slight green tinge and a distinctive white eyering.

“Everyone likes birds. What wild creature is more accessible to our eyes and ears, as close to us and everyone in the world, as universal as a bird?” ~ Sir David Attenborough

In many of the reserves in the northern part of South Africa you will see Brown-headed kingfishers but in this reserve you will see mainly Striped kingfishers. This species is an insectivore. It has powder blue rectrices and primary wing feathers. Its crown is light brown with dark brown stripes. It has a whitish buff coloured cheek and nape and its eye stripe is dark brown reaching from behind the eye around the back of the head. Its breast and belly are a whitish buff colour with dark brown stripes. It beak comprises a dark brown maxilla and red mandible which is diagnostic feature.

Lesser striped swallows were constantly flying around the lodge hawking flying insects. These are large swallows with a russet coloured head, nape, ear coverts and upper tail coverts. Their back and upper wing coverts are steel blue in colour. Their throat, breast and belly are white with thick black streaks. The primary and secondary wing feathers are a black-dark brown in colour. The outer rectrices are long streamers, which are longer in the male.

Next to the dining area and deck that overlooks the Mkuze river, there are coral trees. The nectar in the florescences attract a variety of birds from weavers and Cape white-eyes to sunbirds. The Scarlet chested sunbird is a large dark brown sunbird with a vivid scarlet chest. It aggressively protects its feeding area from other sunbirds such as the smaller Collared sunbird.

The Collared sunbird is also strikingly coloured with an iridescent green back and head and yellow underparts. This small sunbird has a short beak so it feeds on different parts of the florescence to the Scarlet chested sunbird. The male has a purple collar which is absent in the female.

The most frequent visitors to the trees around the lodge were Purple crested turacos. Like most turacos, it is a large vividly coloured fruit eater. This species has a bright red eyering and its primary and secondary wing feathers are bright scarlet. Its crown has a purple-blue crest which extends down its nape. Its throat, back, belly and shoulders are an olive green. Its chest is an apricot colour tinged with olive green. This is a large, beautiful noisy turaco which is always on the move in the tree canopy. We saw this species feeding on fruit in the cycads at the entrance to the lodge and fruiting trees around the lodge.

“Tranquility of the heart is a blessing one receives from the wilderness.” ~ Robbie George

These turacos found the soft red seeds from the cycads around the lodge very enticing. The antics of these turacos around the pool area of the lodge provided plenty of entertainment.

A White-browed scrub-robin foraging in a open dry area close to where we found the cheetah family. This species of scrub-robin has a distinctive pale white superciliary (above its eye) stripe. Its crown, nape and back are light brown and its upper tail coverts are a rust colour. It has a buff coloured throat, breast and belly with dark brown stripes. Its greater and lesser wing coverts are distinctively white striped. This is a restless insect eater foraging mainly on the ground.

“I would like to paint the way a bird sings.” ~ Claude Monet

When we have meals at the safari lodge on the deck overlooking the Mkuze river, we were visited by a pair of Mocking cliff chats who were quick to pick up scraps of food dropped on the floor. There were quite habituated to people which gave us a chance to see them close up. This cliff chat is black all over except its belly and undertail coverts are chestnut brown. This species has a distinctive white shoulder patch. It is a very “chatty” chat.

Similar to all chats, this species lifted it tail just after it has landed. The male’s upperparts are black while the female’s upperparts are a dark grey. This species inhabits rocky boulder strewn areas and well-wooded rocky ravines. On the opposite side of the Mkuze river to the lodge is a high, well treed rocky cliff.

This Groundscraper thrush is an upright standing thrush. It is a bold, long legged thrush with a short tail. Its upper parts are a grey-brown and its cheeks, and underparts are white with bold dark brown spotted which join together around the face creating a malar and ear stripe. It characteristically, runs long distances on the ground hunting insects, stopping and standing bolt upright all the while flicking its wings. The Groundscraper Thrush is predominately terrestrial, hopping on the ground like many thrushes and scrapings among fallen leaves and other dead vegetation for insects. Sometimes it can be seen cocking its head to listen for prey moving in the leaf litter.

While having breakfast we were visited by a pair of Black backed puffbacks who hopped around in the trees close by the lodge’s deck. This small shrike has white underparts, a black head, variegated black and gray lesser and median coverts. Its back is black as are its rectrices.

“Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.” ~ Gary Snyder

The male and female Black-backed Puffbacks are similarly coloured but the male has an all black head with the black becoming white just below its ruby red eye. The female’s face is mostly white face and she has a white eyebrow. These little shrikes also have a distinctive call which announces their presence. Thereafter it requires some patience to see them clearly.

The Pied wagtail is also a strikingly pied coloured wagtail. It has a long black tail which it wags up and down constantly. It has black upperparts and white underparts. It has a strong white eyebrow and a black stripe down its throat which broadens out into a black apron on its chest. It has a white panel of feathers on the leading edge of its wings. This insect eater seems to prefer to be close to water, be it a swimming pool or a river.

The other side of the Mkuze from the lodge is a steep rocky cliff with a small valley between the cliff faces leading down to the river. The opposite bank of the river is lined with large trees. On several occasions we heard what we initially thought was a baby crying but it turned out to be a family of Trumpeter hornbills. This pied colour hornbill has a wide pink area of skin around its eyes. This species is a large hornbill, compared to its yellow or red billed cousins. It has a large grey casque on top of its maxilla which is bigger on the male than the female.

On two occasions, the family of hornbills flew from their roosting trees on the other side of the Mkuze river to the fruiting trees around the lodge. They made quite a noise while communicating with each other.

This adult Fish eagle was perched on a broken branch close to a large pool of water in the river. There must be plenty of fish in the river because we saw a number of Fish eagles.

“Nature’s beauty is that is cultivates appreciation and gratitude.” ~ Louie Schwartzberg

We found a lone African hawk-eagle perched on a fallen tree. It had a high position from which to scan its surroundings. This raptor prefers savanna and and riverine forest habitats where it primarily hunts gamebirds, such as francolin and guineafowl. This hawk-eagle hunts by swooping from a perch, quartering low over the ground or stooping from a soaring position. It is aggressive and highly territorial.

In my experience, adult African hawk eagles hunt in pairs. The only time I have seen a single African hawk eagle was when it was a fledged juvenile.

An adult Martial eagle perched on a large aloe on the side of a hill looking down onto the Mkuze river. This is the area where we found the three year old male lion hiding from the coalition. This is one the largest and most powerful species of booted eagle. Also found in Amakhosi private game reserve another large and very powerful booted eagle, the Crowned eagle, which is sometimes called the “flying leopard” because of its colouring. The Martial eagle is one of the few eagles which hunts primarily from a high soar followed by a high speed stoop once it has located its quarry.

We saw many more interesting birds but I was not able take a good images of them. Two species which proved difficult and elusive were the Crested guineafowl and the Gorgeous bushshrike. Many raptors appeared to move up and down the river but were usually on the other side of the river to the lodge. I never got to see a Crowned eagle this time but we did see a pair of Crowned eagles in 2008 sitting in a large tree above a female bushbuck which they had killed.

“Birds provide a treasure trove of colour, diversity and sound. Treasures that can be seen on every game drive.” ~ Mike Haworth

We plan to return to Amakhosi in September this year before it gets too hot. I still want to get a good image of a Purple crested turaco flying, and try to see and photograph a Crowned eagle. Brown hyaena, civet and a serval are also on my mammal wish list.

“You never know what may cross your path and fuel the wildness of your soul.”~ Robbie George

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at bits interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

Amakhosi Private Game reserve is located on the banks of the Mkuze river about 25 kilometres south east of Pongola in Zululand, which is in KwaZulu Natal in South Africa. Helen and I first visited Amakhosi Safari Lodge in the reserve in 2008. We were so impressed with the experience that we returned in 2009 to find some significant changes. There had been a land claim and 10 000 hectares of the original 22 000 hectare reserve had been awarded to the claimants leaving 12 000 hectares of the original private game reserve. We had a wonderful time in 2009 despite the reduced size of the private reserve because of the quality of the safari lodge and the staff. The reserve has the Mkuze river coursing through it and has lush valley bushland, rolling savannahs, majestic mountains and thriving river wetlands which support a wonderful diversity of wildlife.

“If I have ever seen magic, it has been in Africa” ~ John Hemingway

In September 2023, Helen and I decided to return to Amakhosi to see how things had developed. To our very pleasant surprise it was excellent, as good as before. The safari lodge and staff had maintained the high level of standards regarding cuisine and service. Even more impressive was how well maintained the roads were in the reserve. It is a “big five” reserve and we were privileged to have had many good sightings of mammals and the birdlife, which in that part of the world is prolific.

The reserve introduced two new male lions in early 2023. These two aggressive male lions are the dominant coalition and any young males do their best to hide from them. The male lion at the back is collared so they can keep track of them. Interestingly, the blonder male is the more dominant and more aggressive.

Initially, when the two males were introduced to Amakhosi, one of the males regularly mock charged which must have increased the pulse rate of the guests on the game vehicle. We had no mock charges and the males seemed to be settling down in their new environment.

The two dominant males were very active and one many occasions we found them patrolling their territory. This was not because it had been raining and they had to remark their territory, but probably because it was still so new to them.

In the southern mountainous section along the Mkuze river, we found a three year old male hiding from the coalition. Remarkably, a day later, the coalition which was out patrolling their territory they came to the exactly same spot where we saw the young male hiding. This reminded us of how developed and sensitive their olfactory senses must have been.

“Vulnerability is the biggest attraction to all predators. But your survival instincts are also at the highest when in danger. Use them, don’t let fear shut them down.” ~ Mitta Xinindlu

The Amakhosi private game reserve has a male and a female cheetah. We were fortunate enough to see the male and female on separate occasions. The female had five cubs. Our first sighting of the cheetah family was early in the morning when it was light but before sunrise. There was still some frost on the dry grass and the cubs were curled up in the embrace of their mother. She was lying in an open section of grassland probably for protection so she could see and sense any danger coming.

Cheetah females become sexually active after two years and can give birth to as many as six cubs, with the average around three. Unlike the males which usually form coalitions, the female remains solitary and does not maintain a territory.

Cheetah cubs are blind at birth and their eyes open after 10 days or so. The cubs are born with a mantle of white fur running from the back of the neck down to the rump. This mantle is thought to provide camouflage in the grass.

The cubs’ mane of white hair disappears after three months and they are usually weaned around four months of age. At this point their mother no longer hides her cubs and they begin to follow her.

Paradoxically, cheetahs are the most productive cat yet they are endangered with a global population of only around 7 000 wild individuals. The main reasons for their decline are human-wildlife conflicts, prey decline, and habitat loss and fragmentation. In a private game reserve these factors are managed. The vulnerability of the cubs arises when their mother leaves them alone to go hunting. When small cubs they are easy prey for lions, leopards and hyaenas and, at times when they are very small, even jackals. Even when their mother is close she is often unable to protect the cubs from lions, leopards and hyaenas. Her best survival strategy is to keep the cubs far away from these predators.

We found this lioness around mid-afternoon lying close to a waterhole. We could not be sure, but judging from her behaviour she may have had cubs hidden in the shrubs among the rocks overlooking the waterhole. This was the only lioness we saw.

At dusk one afternoon, we had been watching a large herd of elephants drinking from the Mkuze river in the mountainous southern section of the park. After watching the herd in the water for a while it was getting dark. So we began making our way back to the lodge. On route our tracker, Zakele, caught a glimpse of a leopard in the thick bush next to the road as he was sweeping his spotlight from left to right looking for any interesting nocturnal wildlife. We stopped, reversed a short distance and our ranger, Jacques, turned the vehicle so we were side on to the road. To everyone’s amazement this leopardess walked out onto the road in the spotlight with year old male cub.

“Give your all to every experience, feel it breathe it appreciate it, nothing lasts forever, when it’s gone you’ll remember the feeling it once gave you and sometimes that’s enough.” ~ Nikki Rowe

The male cub was very affectionate to his mother. He looked to have be around a year old. Male leopards have usually leave their mothers by two years’ old and can start breeding from three years.

This male was too young, but the method of aging leopards older than three years, is usually done by looking at their dewlap size, the condition of their ears and the degree of facial scarring and sometimes the colour of the nose.

We were privileged to see this leopardess and her male cub walking around in the spotlight for what must have been around 15 minutes. The two were inquisitive and even walked close to the vehicle. For such secretive predators this was a remarkable sighting which left all of us on the vehicle quite breathless with excitement.

On the western boundary of the reserve there was a fence and on the other side of the fence was a huge open area. Early one morning, we found the two males walking along the fence line watching a lioness who was just the other side of the fence. The male lions on the other side of the fence had been roaring and these two male replied.

There were no “flat cats” on this particular morning. These two males were very interested in the female close to the fence but on the other side.

These were unusually confident male lions judging from their disregard for our vehicle and interest in what was the other side of the fence. Both males were large and were in good condition. Dr Jennie Miller in her Panthera Field Notes for Panthera’s Lion Program noted that lion biologists have long used unique natural markings (like whisker spots, ear notches and scars) to identify individuals but these factors do not help determine the age of the male. Research found six traits which notably changed with age – nose darkness, facial scarring, teeth colour and wear, and jowl slackness. These males looked to be around five year old.

“It starts with a series of grunts. Then the roaring starts. If you are close, it will send primordial shivers down your spine. The sound is deafening and awe inspiring at the same time. The game vehicle vibrates and you can feel the roaring in your chest.” ~ Mike Haworth

“He was a killer, a thing that preyed, living on the things that lived, unaided, alone, by virtue of his own strength and prowess, surviving triumphantly in a hostile environment where only the strong survive.” ~ Jack London

Amakhosi’s predators looked to thriving in the reserve. We had exceptional sightings of all the cats. On one occasion early in the morning, we had a fleeting glimpse of a Brown hyaena. According to the ranger, Jacques, there are many Brown hyaena in the reserve but they are nocturnal and very skittish in the daylight.

“There is something about safari life that makes you forget all your sorrows and feel as if you had drunk half a bottle of champagne — bubbling over with heartfelt gratitude for being alive.” ~ Karen Blixen

Being a “big five” reserve we also had excellent sightings of elephant, rhino and the birdlife was prolific.

Explore seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

Helen and I visited Marievale Bird Sanctuary in late August last year. This wetland is a RAMSAR site and is therefore judged to be of International importance because of its uniqueness and biodiversity. The water levels in the wetland have a strong influence on what birds you are likely to see. The time of year also dictates whether you will see migrants or not. Being the end of Southern African winter only the very early migrants were seen. In the southern African winter many of the grassland birds lose their colourful breeding plumage and the grass and reeds in the wetland turn to yellows and browns.

“The changing of the seasons marks our journey through life, embracing and learning from each experience.” ~ Anonymous

We have seen many Purple swamphens during our wanderings around Marievale Bird Sanctuary. This is a big bird around 43cm in height, the size of a chicken. When the sun is out it shows a spectacular purple, green and blue colouration. It has a bronze green back and wing coverts. Its underparts and head are a royal blue. The throat and ear coverts are a light blue and it has a red beak and frontal shield. Its legs are red and and it has white undertail which it flicks up and down as it walks along the bank of a waterway.

This species of swamphen is an omnivore and feeds mostly on soft shoots of reeds and rushes and small animals, such as frogs and snails. It is also known to feed on eggs and other bird’s chicks. The Purple swamphen is often heard and tends to hide in the reeds along the bank. It is not often seen out in the open, much like a Black crake.

A Black-winged stilt is wader recognised by its very long pink legs, black back and wings and white underparts, neck and head. It has an untidy black crown and a long thin beak, red eye which is black when immature. Marievale is ideal for this wader as it prefers marshes and wetlands. With its long thin beak it picks edibles such as insects and crustaceans from the sand and surface of the water.

A pair of Avocets. These waders are easily identified by their upcurved black beak, black and white colouration and ruby red eyes. Their head nape and back is black as are their upperparts. The primary feathers on the wings are black as are the coverts with the greater coverts mainly white forming a white shoulder patch. They have long blue-grey legs suited to wading in shallow water.

The Pied Avocet feeds by swishing its beak back and forth in the shallow water to catch insects, worms and crustaceans. Their short rounded wings are suited to short quick flights. Pied avocets have been a great conservation success story globally and especially in the UK.

A Hottentot teal foraging as it is swimming in the shallow waters of the Marievale waterways. This is a small dabbling duck with a black head and nape and buff-colored cheeks and throat. Its bill is an unusual blue colour with a black stripe on the upper mandible. Its back is blackish-brown edged with buff, the breast is brown spotted with black, and the belly is mottled buff. As with all teals, its has a green wing speculum, a distinctly coloured patch on the secondary wing feathers.

A female ruff in non-breeding plumage foraging for insects, worms and crustaceans in the mud. This migrant must have been one of the early arrivals. Ruffs undertake the longest migration of any terrestrial bird, as they first leave their Siberian breeding colonies in July before heading west to the Black and Caspian Seas, then on down south to southern Africa, a journey of approximately 16 000km.

A lone Kittlitz plover foraging for insects in the mud among the dead reed stems. There is a difference between plovers and lapwings. Plovers are much smaller than lapwings and the latter has broad, rounded wings. Lapwings also have long legs and carpal spurs on their wings.

This Little stint is a tiny wader and was seen foraging along the water edge. This migrant was also an early arrival. It breeds in arctic Europe and Asia and migrates down to South Africa in the late winter, early spring.

A pair of Red-billed teal sunning themselves and preening on a small island in one of the large open waterways in Marievale.

A pair of Red-billed teal and Yellow-billed ducks flushed by our approach. Interestingly, the popularity of Marievale with birders has not had much effect habituating these waterfowl to humans. The duck species are still wary of humans.

“Tame birds sing of freedom. Wild birds fly.” ~ John Lennon

A male Long-tailed widowbird in non breeding plumage. Non-breeding males lose their long tails and become streaky and brown but keep the distinctive wing pattern.

A Cape wagtail singing to its heart’s content from a fallen tree trunk mostly submerged in the water. This a long-tailed insect eater with a brownish back, pale underparts, and a black chest band. White outer tail rectrices are conspicuous in flight. Found in most open habitats, especially those near water. Like all wagtails it has a distinctive way of walking, bobbing its tail constantly.

“A heart without dreams is like a bird without feathers.” ~ Suzy Kassem

A male Stonechat singing away from its dead tree stump perch. Stonechats are abundant in Marievale.

A White-throated swallow. Like most swallows it has a blue back, nape and crown. Its forehead is a chestnut brown. Its throat is white and it has a blue horizontal breast band. Its belly, undertail coverts are white. It also has two long thin tail streamers which are characteristic of this species.

A Black crake out in the open but surprised by a noise on the other side of the stream. It immediately dashed for the cover of the reeds next to the stream. This species of crake is secretive and is usually only seen sulking on the edge of a reed bed. This is a small black wader with a vivid yellow beak, red eyes and pink legs. This species prefers freshwater marshes.

An African snipe. This is a stocky short legged, long billed wader. It has cryptically coloured plumage which provides effective camouflage making it difficult to see amongst the vegetation at the edge of the waterway.

This species of snipe is active at night, especially in moonlight. It uses its long beak to probe the mud for invertebrate organisms, especially earthworms. These were collected while the bird walks on soft mud and sandy edges of streams and in short grasslands.

We never got to see these African snipe winnowing with its associated unusual flight pattern and sound. We did see another of this snipe’s unique features which was the bending of the ends of its long beak. This snipe eats with its bill closed. It has a long, sensitive, flexible beak used to probe loose soil and mud for food. Without removing its bill from the mud, the snipe flexes the tip of its upper mandible like a pincer to grab and consume food. Serrations on the bill and spikes on the tongue help it to move food from the bill-tip to the throat

A Red-knobbed coot chasing another coot away from where it was feeding on submerged plant matter. This species of coot is a charcoal black waterbird with a white frontal shield, white beak, red eyes and two red knobs on its forehead. It has yellow legs and webbed feet. The red-knobs are only evident in the breeding season. This is a highly territorial species and can often be seen bullying larger birds by running across the water at them with open wings.

We were lucky enough to see several large flocks of flamingos. The flock in the next image was of Lesser flamingos.

“No human ever lived in a birdless world.” ~ Richard Smyth

An adult Lesser flamingo in flight with its legs and neck extended for longitudinal balance. This species is smaller than the Greater flamingo but has the same slender build. It has a dark pink beak and pink legs. The wings are narrow and the primary and secondary flight feathers are black, and their wing coverts are red. Their eyes are orange to yellow, surrounded by a ring of maroon.

The Lesser flamingo feeds on various types of algae. When feeding it submerges its head in the water with its beak upside down and uses its legs to stir up the water to release the algae and other organisms, which are filtered through the beak. The Lesser flamingo has an upper mandible which is triangular in cross-section, and narrower than the lower mandible, so acts like a lid for the lower mandible. Both the upper and lower mandibles contain two rows of a bristled, comb-like or hair-like structure called lamellae. When the mandibles come together, the lamellae of the upper and lower mandibles mesh forming a filter. The flamingo’s large, fleshy tongue is covered with bristle-like projections which help filter water and food particles through the lamellae.

A Lesser flamingo coming into land. Flamingos are strong fliers capable of both short-distance and long-haul flights, often traveling in V-shaped formations for energy conservation and safety during migrations. All species of flamingos demonstrate remarkable takeoff and landing skills, using water surfaces to gain momentum for takeoff, and gracefully touching down with their webbed feet acting as natural landing gear. At a point they appear to skip along the surface of the water.

A Marsh harrier quartering the grasslands and edge of the reed beds for prey. Quartering is slow flight over open areas in search of prey. When prey is spotted the raptor will often hover for a short while to pinpoint the prey’s location before diving down to grab it.

“Wild beasts and birds are by right not the property merely of the people today, but the property of the unborn generations, whose belongings we have no right to squander.” ~ Theodore Roosevelt

An African rail. This is a mid-sized rail. Its back and nape are brown and its head and chest are grey. Its belly, flanks and undertail have a barred pattern of black and white. It has a long red beak and red legs. Both male and female have similar colouring.

Like most rails this species is secretive though less so than other rail species. It prefers reedbeds and dense vegetation along the edges of wetlands in which to feed and bred. It feeds by probing the mud and shallow waters along the bank with its long red beak. It eats insects, earthworms, spiders, small frogs, small fish and soft plant matter such as seeds.

You never know what you are going to see when wandering around Marievale Bird Sanctuary. There are the perennials like stonehats, moorhens and coots but what you see and where you see it is dependent on the level of water in the wetland and its open waterways. If you are lucky you may even see a spotted-necked otter, water mongoose or a yellow mongoose and a variety of interesting birds.

“Not just symbolic representations, birds bring forth a myriad of life lessons, inspirations, and vibrant imagery that imprint themselves on our creative and philosophical landscapes.”~ Isabella Sedano

Marievale is a wonderful place to reinforce your bird identification skills and keep photographically fit.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike