Amakhosi is a private game reserve about 25 kilometres south of Pongola in northern KwaZulu Natal, sited around the Mkuze river. The Amakhosi game reserve comprises a blend of savannah, wetlands and mountains. The reserve recently acquired access to the adjacent private game reserve more than doubling the traversing area.

“It is in the wild places, where the edge of the earth meets the corners of the sky, the human spirit is fed.” ~ Art Wolfe

We were usually up and having coffee and a rusk or muffin at 6h00 to leave for the morning game drive by 6h30. September was the beginning of spring in South Africa which meant cool mornings and hot days with little likelihood of rain. he next image is a shot taken at dawn looking east across the mist rising from the Mkuze river.

A small herd of elephant bulls were browsing on the small trees in the section south of the lodge. Two youngsters were more interested in testing their strength against each other than feeding. This was not a serious tussle and they were just pushing each other around though when their tusks clashed they made quite a loud “crack”.

I had never before seen giraffe browsing on the leaves of a Tamboti tree. The Tamboti is known for the milky latex it secretes which is poisonous to humans, but not to animals. It is a food source for many species of antelope, elephants and monkeys and black rhino. Porcupines relish the bark of the tree but if they ring bark the tree too much they can kill it. Tambotis are found in groves.

“Slow down to understand and feel the rhythm of the wild place around you. Then you will begin to see and hear things you never noticed before. This new found depth and complexity creates wonder and gratefulness.” ~ Mike Haworth

A large kudu bull browsing on the leaves of an acacia. This species forages on leaves, shoots and grass. Its is a selective browser, utilising its prehensile lips and long tongue to extract nutritious foliage from a range of plant species including long thorned acacia trees.

There is plenty of lush vegetation along the Mkuze river which is an ideal habitat for Cape buffalo. The main difference between the horn structure of a male and female Cape buffalo is that only males have a boss, which is a shield-like structure that joins their horns in the middle. This middle-aged bull kept a wary eye on us as we passed by.

Amakhosi has recently acquired traversing rights to a large adjacent game farm. The lion prides, especially females, had been crossing the fence between the game farms where the fence crosses the river. Now with increased access guests are able to see the lions even if they have crossed into the neighbouring game farm. On our last day, we crossed into the adjacent game reserve to find a pride of four lionesses and their adolescent cubs. The lion pride was lying on a small hill with a view onto the surrounding open grassland.

“The vastness of the African wilderness humbles you, reminding you of your place in the grand canvas of life. Here, amidst the towering trees and endless plains, one feels an acute awareness of our connection to the natural world.” ~ Peter Matthiessen

The lionesses were lying quietly in the morning sun when suddenly one lioness got up on her front legs fully alert. She had heard something that none of us on the game vehicle heard even with the engine turned off. She listened and looked in the direction of the sound for about a minute assessing what it might be.

Having decided that this was something she should investigate she got up and walked with purpose in the direction of the sound.

She half walked with head down to position herself behind a bush to better see what was making the noise she heard. We thought she had seen a potential hunting opportunity but after a few minutes she lay down behind the bushes.

We disturbed a young elephant bull while he was foraging on some low bushes. We must have given him a fright because he whirled to face us with ears flapping and trumpeting loudly. Thankfully he did not charge the vehicle. The bush was relatively thick and he was about 25 metres off the gravel road so we were a safe distance from him. After apologising to him for disturbing his breakfast we moved without incident.

There is a low concrete causeway across the Mkuze river which is an ideal place to stop and have a look up and down river as we start our game drive early in the morning. This particular morning the sun was up but mist was still rising off the river.

A view of the main lodge at Amakhosi from a hill opposite the lodge. The green vegetation indicates the proximity to the Mkuze river which flows just in front of the lodge.

“There is a charm about the African wilds that grips the heart and will not let go. It is a charm that knows no season, that is potent alike under the fierce glare of the noonday sun and under the soft, mysterious light of the moon.” ~ Frederick Courtney Selous

We were fortunate enough to have the private house which is part of the Amakhosi safari lodge accommodation. It was the owner’s previous house and is superbly positioned on a rocky cliff overlooking the Mkuze river.

A view from the patio of the private house looking over the Mkuze river valley. This house is “private” and a five minute drive to the lodge. A perfect place to spend a few days in the bush with a view and no disturbance.

“Africa is a living laboratory of evolution, and its landscapes hold the secrets to our past and the clues to our future.” ~ Louis Leakey

Amakhosi is one of our favourite places in the bush to visit. The lodge itself is well appointed and the staff are friendly and efficient. The location is superb with a large deck overlooking the Mkuze river and a very comfortable place to have breakfast and dinner. The game viewing in Amakhosi is very good and the birds are especially good. This is one place we will keep returning to.

“Cherish sunsets, wild creatures, and wild places. Have a love affair with the wonder and beauty of the earth!” ~ Stewart Udall

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike