We visited Kruger National Park in February this year. Our focus was in the southern western section of Kruger including Pretoriuskop, Berg-en-dal and Skukuza camps. That time was late summer in southern Africa and the migrant birds were enjoying the warmth and abundance of food that summer conditions brought.
Kruger Parks’ slogan – Custos Naturae which means Guardian of Nature
Our base was Pinelake Resort next to Lake Longmere just outside White River and we travelled into Kruger through the Numbi gate. After looking around Pretoriuskop camp we drove to Shitlhave dam. The area around the dam is open grassland which attracts rollers and a variety of avian insect and seed eaters. There are normally a selection of waders, ducks and storks which remain around the dam.
“Nothing but breathing the air of Africa, and actually walking through it, can communicate the indescribable sensations.” ~ William Burchell
One of the more colourful migrants see at the dam was the European roller. This is the only member of the roller family which breeds in Europe. This species is usually seen perched on top of a prominent bush or tree. It prefers woodlands, bushveld and grasslands, and avoids open dry areas in the west of southern Africa. Its food comprises of insects, small mammals, reptiles and frogs.
While sitting quietly with a cup of coffee and a rusk watching all the avian activity around the dam, this Marsh sandpiper strolled along the edge of the water in front of us. It was foraging in the grass for edibles.
While gazing over the Shitlhave dam we suddenly heard the cackle from Hammerkops. To our left on a rock next to the water edge were a pair Hammerkops mating. Both male and female birds have a specialised opening at the base of their tail feathers known as an avian vent, or cloaca. This opening connects to a chamber where the sex organs lie – testes in males, ovaries in females. The act of passing sperm from male to female is known as the “cloacal kiss”. The males does not have a penis. The male and female press their cloaca’s together for a few seconds to transfer sperm to the female.
An adult Southern Carmine bee-eater perched on a dead branch in the heat of the morning facing Transport dam. This species is an intra-African migrant visiting in summer from Equatorial Africa. In summer, we have always found Southern Carmines in this area. There is a plethora of flying insects from bees to wasps and dragonflies. Carmines hawk from a prominent perch and usually return to the perch with their prey which they proceed to beat to death against the perch.
“My wish is to stay always like this, living quietly in a corner of nature”. ~ Claude Monet
The lighter, faded coloured Southern Carmines are fledged juveniles. The juveniles were accomplished hawkers.
A Grey heron drying it wings after a early morning cloud burst. It was facing east directly into the morning sun. The weather was warm so it would have dried its wing feathers quite quickly.
“It’s not what you look at that matters, it’s what you see.” ~ Henry David Thoreau
A Rattling cisticola – although it was difficult to see the red panel on its primary wing feathers and pale tip on its tail feathers. Its rufous cap was evident. This is a common species in open savanna and scrubland habitats and likes to sing on open perches.
A Common sandpiper walking on a fallen log in front of the hide at Lake Panic near the Skukuza camp. This species has green-brown upper parts and a white throat which has light brown streaks. Its belly and undertail coverts are white. It has a short straight grey beak and green-yellow legs. Common sandpipers have white wing bars and white tips on the secondaries and inner primaries. They have a conspicuous white eyering and a dark eye stripe. A key diagnostic feature is the white section above its shoulder.
A pair of Malachite kingfishers were very busy fishing from the reeds in front of the hide at Lake Panic. This is the smallest fish eating kingfisher. The smallest kingfisher in southern Africa is the Pygmy kingfisher but it is insectivorous.
“Light is a thing that cannot be reproduced, but must be represented by something else – by color.” ~ Paul Cezanne
A Grey heron standing on the back of a hippo bull which was sleeping with his head in the shade in the pool in front of the hide at Lake Panic. The bull hippo seemed completely unfazed by the heron walking around on his back. The hippo gave the heron access deeper into the pond to hunt fish and frogs.
A pair of Pied kingfishers were successfully hunting from higher perches in front of the hide at Lake Panic. This species also beat their prey against their perch to kill it and then throw their prey up in the air to rearrange its position so it can be swallowed head first. This prevents the dorsal fin of the fish getting caught in its throat.
Tucked away inside the bush overhanging the pond in front of the hide at Lake Panic was a nest with two newly hatched Green-backed herons. We watched the Grey heron get closer and closer to the nest but nothing happened. The outcome could have be very different if it had been a Black-headed heron.
“Nature is ever at work building and pulling down, creating and destroying, keeping everything whirling and flowing, allowing no rest but in rhythmical motion, chasing everything in endless song out of one beautiful form into another.” ~ John Muir
There was a colony of Lesser masked weavers nesting in the large tree overhanging the pool in front of the hide at Lake Panic. The Lesser masked weaver has a black mask that extends halfway up the front of its crown and its eyes are whitish. All the bird activity caught the attention of Diederick’s cuckoos, Gabar Goshawks and Little sparrowhawks.
The next day we decided to travel down to Berg-en-dal camp from Pretoriuskop. We started down Voortrekker road but found it too rough and corrugated so we took the longer route on a tarred road using the HI-1 road and turned right onto the H3 tarred road. A few kilometres south of the Afsaal picnic site we found a family of Southern Ground hornbills foraging through the grass and over a rock outcrop next to a dry riverbed.
The Southern Ground hornbill is the size of a turkey, and is the largest species of hornbill. The species is immediately recognizable by its jet-black feathers, yellow eyes, and bright red throat and wide red eye ring. The male and female mostly look the same but the female has a purple-blue patch of skin on its throat. The male’s throat is uniformly red.
A Red-billed oxpecker preening itself while sitting on the back of an impala ewe. This species has dark brown upper parts and beige under parts. It has a red eye with a yellow eye ring and a vivid red beak. Oxpeckers have stiff tails feathers and sharp claws to be able to balance and hang on to their moving host. Red-billed Oxpeckers feed on ticks and clean up wounds in the tissue of the host’s hide.
The following day we drove along the Waterhole road between the H1-1 and S1 tarred roads. This is usually a productive drive from both a mammal and avian sighting perspective. We found a muddy Burchell’s Coucal skulking in the bushes along the gravel road. This species’ under parts are usually a light beige in colour. The barred upper tail coverts are a distinguishing feature. Coucals are a members of the cuckoo family but do not engage in parasitic breeding behaviour.
A Bronze mannikin looking after its hungry chicks. The adult Bronze mannikin has a grey beak and black-dark brown head. Its underparts are white and it has brown barring on its sides. Immature birds are a more plain buffy brown, with dark grey-brown upper parts and a black beak.
“This world is but a canvas for our imagination.” ~ Henry David Thoreau
A Jameson’s firefinch identified by its red plumage with a brown back and upper wing coverts, and blue-grey beak. This little finch was close to the Bronze mannikins in a bush along side a rivulet with water.
A Red-backed shrike. This is a beautiful small shrike. The male has a distinctive blue-grey head, black eye band and white underparts and fine scalloping on its breast. Its back is a rusty-red. It prefers thorny bushes which it uses as a larder to impale its prey on the thorns. This species is a Paleartic breeder and migrates to southern Africa during our summers.
A female Giant kingfisher perched on a fallen tree trunk in the pool in front of the hide at Lake Panic. The sexes can be distinguished by the position of their chestnut frontal plumage. The male has a chestnut breast band while the female a has a chestnut belly and undertail coverts. This is the largest kingfisher in Southern Africa and feeds on fish, frogs, insects and crabs.
A Woodland kingfisher with its bright red maxilla and black mandible. It has a white head, neck and underparts. Its shoulders are black and the back and flight feathers are a vivid cyan-blue colour. This kingfisher has a beautiful trilling call which is only heard in summer as it is an inter African migrant. It moves north during the winter months in southern Africa.
An interesting interaction between a large terrapin and an African darter on a fallen tree trunk in front of the hide at Lake Panic. The terrapin was quietly sunning itself and minding its own business when this darter flew in and landed on the fallen tree trunk. The darter waddled over to the terrapin and started to peck at its legs.
“Wealth is the ability to fully experience life”. ~ Henry David Thoreau
This large Serrated hinged terrapin stood its ground by retracting the legs being pecked at. Eventually the terrapin slid off the log to get some peace and the darter walked further along the log to sun itself.
The weather was variable in the week we spent driving around the southern section of Kruger. We found a small flock of Red-breasted swallows sitting on the ground with their breast feathers puffed up because it was quite cold. This looked to be a juvenile because its tail streamers were still quite short. This large swallow has a brick-red rump and underparts and dark blue upper parts and crown and face mask. This is an inter African summer visitor.
A Southern Black flycatcher is a slim glossy-black flycatcher. It can be mistaken for a Fork-tailed drongo but the former is smaller, has a square tail and a smaller beak. Its eyes are dark brown whereas the drongo has a deep red eye colour.
A fledged juvenile Brown snake-eagle. The adult has dark brown overall appearance but in flight the underwing is silver grey. The juvenile has paler brown feathers and the edges of the feathers are paler and white giving it a scaly look. The head and breast often show white feathers bases.
Late in the afternoon, we travelled on S118 loop down near Malelane. It has several waterholes adjacent to the road. We found this Dark Chanting goshawk perched on a dead tree trunk scouring the area for any prey. This species is a tall, long-tailed, slaty-gray hawk with pink-orange legs and beak and the tip of its beak is black. The flight feathers and wing tips are dark on both the upper and under wings, creating a uniformly dark wing pattern in flight. By contrast, the Pale Chanting-Goshawk has pale inner flight feathers and dark wing tips, which creates a strongly contrasting wing pattern.
The sightings of mammals can be variable but you are always likely to see a wide variety of birds in Kruger. The sightings are affected by the weather. The birds are less active in cold and windy weather, as are the mammals. The wind can be an advantage when taking images of birds in flight. A bird flying into the wind will always fly slower making the photography easier. The birds of prey also seem to be disturbed by too much road traffic and they usually fly deeper into the bush so I prefer to stay off the main roads. Long lenses ensure that I can give most birds enough ‘fight-flight’ space, usually around 30 metres.
“Few can sojourn long within the unspoilt wilderness of a gam sanctuary surrounded on all sides by its confiding animals, without absorbing its atmosphere; the spirit of the wild is quick to assert supremacy, and no man of any sensibility can resist her.” ~ James Stevenson Hamilton
Explore, seek to understand, marvel at it interconnectedness and let it be.
Have fun, Mike
Your photographs make me long for the Kruger National Park: it is a long time since we made the long trek from the Eastern Cape to be in that magical place. All of your photographs are beautiful to look at, but my favourites are: mating hamerkops; the great kingfisher with a fish – wonderful actions shots; and the priceless expression of the red-billed oxpecker.
Thank you Anne – being quiet and waiting for those cameo moments adds so much to the Kruger experience.