This was November in Mashatu. Many changes had taken place in the lions’ world in Mashatu. The handsome unscarred male lion who had been dominant for several years was deposed and pushed out into the adjacent property called Charter. Two younger males in the early phase of their prime had taken over the Mashatu territory. The manes of these males were still relatively blonde. The older the male generally the darker his mane. Dark-maned male lions are known to have a higher level of testosterone, which means they are stronger and more aggressive fighters. An aggressive male is better able to defend his pride.

“We no longer have the luxury of time when it comes to big cats. They are in such a downward spiral that if we hesitate now, we will be responsible for extinctions across the globe. If there was ever a time to take action, it is now.” ~ Dereck Joubert

On our second morning we found the two males with three lionesses. The blonder male was lying on his own away from the other male and two lionesses.

It was late afternoon and there were many stinging flies biting the male lying on his own. To prevent being stung the male was swishing his tail back and forth and was also trying to bite at the flies.

The third lioness who had been lying away from the other lions walked up to the male lying on his own. She lingered for a few months taking in his scent.

“Things are not always as they seem; the first appearance deceives many.” ~Phaedrus

She then brushed past and nuzzled him catching his attention. She then without a pause walked past him with without a backward glance and strode over to the other male lying with the other two lionesses.

It was clear from the first interaction that the male lying with the two lionesses was the dominant member of the male coalition. The third lioness walked straight up to the dominant male and started rubbing herself against him ensuring that he caught her scent. She was ready to mate.

The female usually invites the male to have intercourse by assuming a position known as lordosis. The dominant male quickly got the message and began mating with her right next to the other two lionesses who seemed unfazed. The mating did not raise a reaction from either of the other two lionesses.

Lions have no particular breeding season, and often synchronise breeding, especially after a pride takeover, which enables them to raise the cubs communally. A lioness mates up to 100 times per day with an average interval of 17 minutes, each mating lasting for around 21 seconds. Male cats have spines on their penis to cause slight trauma to the vagina upon withdrawal.  The resulting pain triggers ovulation.  It probably also explains why females bare their teeth at males during mating. (Source: ALERT: African Lion & Environmental Research Trust). We came away from this sighting with the firm impression that the mating male lion was the dominant member of the coalition so all the females gravitated towards him and were effectively his.

Two days later, in a much more open windswept part of the reserve near the vlei (local name for a marsh) we found all five lions. This time the male previously seen on his own had a female with him.

“True merit, like a river, the deeper it is, the less noise it makes.” ~ Edward Wood

He was very protective of her and every time she got up to walk back to the other lionesses he followed her. As soon as she got close to the other male he would shield her from him. There was no antagonism between the two males.

The less dominate male started to mate with the female right next to the dominate male and two lionesses. The dominant male just looked on with complete acceptance despite the fact that he had mated with her two days before.

“The greatest fear in the world is of the opinions of others. And the moment you are unafraid of the crowd you are no longer a sheep, you become a lion. A great roar arises in your heart, the roar of freedom.” ~ Osho

The slightly overcast afternoon was very peaceful and the mating took place every twenty minutes or so.

At one point the two mating lions got close to the dominant male and he backed away to lie in-between the lionesses. This behaviour looked amusing and stirred the ire of one lioness who was sat on.

The mating pair eventually moved further away from the other three lions. The wind was blowing but it was warm. At one point the mating male lay a metre or two from his lioness. He looked relaxed but pensive.

“See life as if it is perfectly framed. Look for the good light, best composition, framing, because it will make you view life in a different, more perfect way. It makes life better if you can see perfection in an image you make, even if the image is of a slaughtered elephant, or people caught in rubble after an earthquake. ” ~ Dereck Joubert

At no point did the mating male lion close his eyes but just watched the whole scene with a quiet acceptance.

Lions live in prides that consist of one primary male lion, several females and one or two lesser males. The primary male mates with his lionesses. Females might also mate with more than one partner. Several females are likely to be in heat at the same time. The pride leader, usually is the first to mate with each female in heat. He might tire of them during their cycle which gives the lesser male get an opportunity to mate.

“Without conservation, nature fails. Without nature, our souls wither, ecosystems fail, culture disappears, and it takes with it our integrity, our self worth, our common drive to strive for better. The eternal battle within each of us is mirrored in the way we interact with nature. If we lose this battle we don’t just lose animals, or litter a few highways. We lose our souls.” ~ Dereck Joubert

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

In south eastern Botswana, Mashatu is a dry place for most of the year. It is home to numerous predators. The active and growing cheetah population in Mashatu competes with lions, leopards and hyaenas.

“The rules of survival never change, whether you’re in a desert or in an arena.” – Bear Grylls

Cheetahs are best known for their unique physiology which enables them to run down their prey at extremely high speeds. A less obvious adaptation, but nonetheless essential for survival, is their adaptability to local conditions, where larger more dominant predators compete with them for prey and will kill them if given a chance.

According to National Geographic, there are various theories concerning cheetah evolution. A popular one postulates that cheetahs descended from the same ancestor as the American puma. About 10 000 to 12 000 years ago, around the end of the last ice age, an extinction event took place that wiped out many large mammal species around the world, including the wild cheetahs of North America and Europe. The extinction of these early cheetah species left only the Asian and African populations of cheetahs.

At the turn of the 19th century, more than 100 000 cheetahs were estimated to have been living in Africa, the Middle East, and Asia. Today there are estimated to be only 7 100 cheetahs left in the wild, so they are listed as “Vulnerable” by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List of Threatened Species. A recent study revealed significant population declines, so scientists are calling for cheetahs to be uplisted to “Endangered.” In North Africa and Asia, they are considered “Critically Endangered.”

Cheetahs today are heading toward extinction, a trend they have faced twice before. Genetic analysis of wild cheetahs shows they may have survived two historical bottlenecks, events that sharply reduce the size of a population.

“Evolution is the floating bridge on turbulent waters.” ~ Sukant Ratnakar

The first bottleneck event that cheetahs may have undergone occurred around 100 00 years ago when they expanded their range into Asia, Europe, and Africa. This range expansion is believed to have occurred rapidly, dispersing the cheetahs over a very large area, which reduced their ability to exchange genes.

The second likely bottleneck event occurred about 10 000 to 12 000 years ago, around the end of the last ice age. In this bottleneck the cheetahs of North America and Europe went extinct, leaving extant only the species’ Asian and African populations. As large mammals died out across the world, the number of surviving cheetahs dwindled, causing inbreeding. Even though the number of cheetahs grew to as many as 100,000 during the 19th century, their genetic variability remained low due to the second extreme bottleneck event which took place thousands of years before.

“Every being has its own important and unique place in the cosmic dance.” ~ Laurence Overmire

Cheetahs now face extinction pressure from climate change, hunting by humans, and habitat destruction. Cheetahs’ own genes also pose a challenge to their continued survival. Cheetahs have a low rate of reproductive success. The result is the few remaining individuals end up inbreeding, or mating with relatives. Inbreeding reduces the size of the gene pool, which can lead to problems such as decreased genetic variability and the persistence of potentially harmful mutations. These factors make it harder for the remaining population to adapt to changes in their environment. In a very small population, any mutations that occur are much more likely to be passed on to offspring and propagate through successive generations.

Adult life for a cheetah in the wild is difficult. Female cheetahs in the wild have an average age span of 10 – 12 years. The average lifespan of an adult male in the wild skews lower (8 years), due in part to territorial conflicts with competing groups of males. Adult mortality is one of the most significant limiting factors for the growth and survival of the wild cheetah population. (Source: Cheetah Conservation fund.)

“Sooner or later, every last echo fades. Even the loudest thunder in the deepest valley.” ~ Brian K. Vaughan

With its long legs and very slender body, the cheetah is quite different from all other cats and is the only member of its genus, Acinonyx. The scientific genus name Acinonyx is a reference to the species’ semi-retractile claws. The cheetah’s unique morphology and physiology allow it phenomenal acceleration and to attain the extreme speeds for which it’s famous.

Distinctive black tear stripes run from the eyes to the mouth. The stripes are thought to protect the eyes from the sun’s glare. It is believed that they also have the same function as a rifle scope, helping cheetahs focus on their prey at a long distance range by minimising the glare of the sun.

“It is a law of nature we overlook, that intellectual versatility is the compensation for change, danger, and trouble. An animal perfectly in harmony with its environment is a perfect mechanism. Nature never appeals to intelligence until habit and instinct are useless. There is no intelligence where there is no change and no need of change. Only those animals partake of intelligence that have a huge variety of needs and dangers.” ~ H.G. Wells

Cheetah scent marking involves spraying urine and defecating on landmarks. It is often done by males competing for the best hunting grounds. Scent is one of the main communication channels among cheetahs. These sleek cats spend a considerable amount of their time smelling and depositing their own scent on previously marked places. This is most often on elevated points such as termite mounds or fallen trees. Such spots serve as ideal observational outlooks and act almost correspondingly to a status update of who is or has been in the area – a regular station for receiving and leaving olfactory information. (https://www.wildlifeact.com/blog/cheetah-scent-marking/)

The study of scat can provide valuable information. It identifies the species, diet composition, provides genetic information such as sex, age and the individual, it provides the hormone levels and parasite load in the individual signalling its overall health and vigour.

Cheetah tails end with a bushy tuft encircled by three or four dark rings. These markings provide them with excellent camouflage while hunting and make them more difficult for other predators to detect. The tail is also thought to be a signaling device, helping young cubs follow their mothers in tall grass. The tip of the tail varies in colour from white to black among individuals.

Cheetah have a hunting success rate of just under 60%. Most of the hunting takes place in the early morning or dusk when it is cooler. If an opportunity to hunt in the heat of the day presents itself the cheetah will take it mainly because there is much less competition from nocturnal predators such as lion, leopards and hyaenas at that time of the day. In Mashatu, the Shepherd Tree provides valuable shade in the heat of the day while the cheetahs rest and look out for prey.

Our second sighting of the cheetah coalition was the next day late in the afternoon. The cheetahs were on the move and looking for prey. On the south side of the Majale river it is dry and rocky in many places.

The two cheetahs were making their way toward the Majale river. Looking at the stones on the ground in this area it is hard to believe that these speedsters can run at top speed over this type of ground.

The cheetah is the world’s fastest land animal. At top speed, their stride is seven meters long. The cheetah’s unique body structure: flexible spine, semi-retractable claws, long legs and tail allow it to achieve a top speed of 110 kilometres per hour. The cheetah’s body is narrow and lightweight with long slender limbs. Its specialised muscles allow for a greater swing to the limbs increasing acceleration. Increasing stride frequency is key to reaching faster speeds. This is mainly achieved through rapidly swinging the limb to decrease swing time. Cheetah muscle has been shown to contain a high proportion of fast-twitch fibres, which would be highly beneficial for rapidly swinging the limb and reducing swing time. (Functional Anatomy of the cheetah forelimb -https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3077521/)

“Cheetahs succeed not because they are the fastest animal on land but because of their incredible acceleration and unmatched turning speeds.” ~ Alan Wilson

Cheetahs have a thin frame with a narrow waist and deep chest. They have large nostrils that allow for increased oxygen intake. Cheetahs have a large lungs and hearts connected to a circulatory system with strong arteries and adrenals that work in tandem to circulate oxygen through their blood very efficiently. The cheetah’s heart rate is between 120 and 170 beats a minute at rest and between 200 and 250 beats per minute when running.

Cheetahs’ foot pads are hard and less rounded than the other cats. The pads function like tire treads providing them with increased traction in fast, sharp turns. The short blunt claws, which are considered semi-retractable, are closer to that of a dog than of other cats. The claws work like the cleats of a track shoe to grip the ground for traction when running to help increase speed.

“Change can be reversed, but evolution only moves forward and once it moves forward, it can never be reversed.” ~ Sukant Ratnakar

This cheetah was very wary and reacted to every sound. It was late in the afternoon, a time when the nocturnal predators begin to stir. The river is also a place where lions and leopards frequent because the river attracts prey which come to the river in search of water.

The cheetahs eventually made their way down to the bank of the Majale river where lions and leopards are regularly seen. The cheetahs were on high alert knowing that crossing the dry river bed was a dangerous venture.

To watch these cheetah hunting from a distance was a privilege. At dawn and dusk they were very wary and were constantly looking around to ensure that there were no potential threats approaching. The cheetah’s colouring is especially effective at these diurnal times making their camouflage even more effective.

Cheetah are able to wander all over the Northern Tuli Game Reserve (NOTUGRE) but tend to frequent the area around the Majale, Matabole and Pitsani rivers especially in the drier periods because of the proximity of water. We have been fortunate enough to see cheetahs almost very time we have visited Mashatu but the free range movement does not guarantee cheetah sightings.

“Life is neither static nor unchanging. With no individuality, there can be no change, no adaptation and, in an inherently changing world, any species unable to adapt is also doomed.” ~ Jean M. Auel

A cheetah sighting is always a thrill because something can happen at any time. Cheetahs are the most active cats during the day so the potential to see a hunt develop is relatively high if you find these cats. If there are cheetah cubs they are very playful offering wonderful photographic opportunities.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

This the second post from my trip to Mashatu Nature Reserve in November last year. Mashatu Nature Reserve is the largest privately owned nature reserve in southern Africa and is located in the Tuli Block between the Shashe and Limpopo rivers in south eastern Botswana.

“It is in the wild places, where the edge of the earth meets the corners of the sky, the human spirit is fed.” “~ Art Wolfe

This is a dry place between May and November each year which is winter and spring. Then the summer rains arrive in late November until around March. The rains turn this dry place into the garden of Eden.

“I can kind of go into the wild places and immediately feel rested and rejuvenated.” ~Jorja Fox

The summer months bring all the avian migrants which swells the number of bird species to around 360. This post shows just a small selection of the variety of birds which can be seen. The avian sightings are excellent when on a game vehicle and there are many birds around the camps. I visit Rock Camp which is a syndicated non-commercial bush camp located close to the Ponte Drift border post on the Limpopo river.

White fronted bee-eater in the crotons next to the Majale river. This is the main river coursing through Mashatu Nature Reserve.

Crested barbet at the bird bath at Rock Camp, which we affectionately call the “marmalade bird”.

Blue waxbills fly in every half an hour of so for a quick drink at the bird bath. These little seed-eaters usually arrive in small flocks.

Male Red-billed firefinch is happy to share the bird bath with Blue waxbills, Jameson’s firefinches and Grey-headed sparrows and even ants.

A male Red-billed fire finch progressively moulting into his summer breeding plumage.

The ever striking Crimson breasted shrike. This species of shrike prefers the drier thorn bush areas, in thickets and riparian scrub which can be found along the banks of the Majale river.

“It is impossible not to be enthralled by the kaleidoscope of colours that birds offer.”~ Mike Haworth

The Southern White-crowned shrike characterised by its distinctive white crown and forehead, and black mask which extends above and below the eye to the side of its neck.

Southern White crowned Shrike. You can usually find them in small family groups.

Kurrichane thrushes are daily visitors to Rock Camp’s bird bath. These thrushes prefer dry savanna and miombo woodland areas which are found along the Limpopo river. They are often seen running on the ground and flicking through the fallen leaves near the bird bath looking for insects.

The Kurrichane thrush has a distinctive orange beak and orange eye-ring. On either side of its throat, it has black stripes extending from its beak down to its chest.

A non descript female White-breasted sunbird. Her belly is a lighter whitish-beige which is different to most other female sunbird species.

Male White breasted sunbird. The iridescence is more vivid in the shade. Both the male and female sunbirds drink at the bird bath by sucking up water with their long beak. Given their high energy needs in a hot climate they do need to supplement their nectar intake with water.

The ubiquitous Kori bustard is always walking away from you. This is one of Mashatu’s “big seven”. It is the largest flying bird in southern Africa. It is a ground-dwelling bird and an opportunistic omnivore. The Kori bustard is cryptically coloured, being mostly grey and brown, finely patterned with black and white colouring on its neck. Both male and female Kori bustards are similarly coloured but the male can be more than twice as heavy as the female.

Female Red-crested korhaan is cryptically coloured and stands motionless in the shade making it difficult to see.

“In a nature reserve, the more you look for birds the more you will see. Listening will help your seeing.” ~ Mike Haworth

The Lesser Striped swallow has a distinctive burnt-orange skullcap extending onto the cheeks like a helmet, and boldly streaked underparts. It is a partial migrant meaning it flies higher up into Africa in the winter months.

Greater honeyguide is the most distinctive members of its family. It has frosted white edgings to the shoulder feathers. The male has a pink bill, black-dark brown throat, and large white “ear muffs’; the female has a dark bill and pale throat.

An African spoonbill foraging for fish in the water next to the dam wall at the vlei in Mashatu Nature Reserve.

Also at the vlei (marsh) was a large flock of Great white pelicans. The flock must have been attracted by the “fish trap” created by the last pool of water next to the vlei’s dam wall.

A squadron of Great white pelicans flying into the remaining water at the vlei’s dam wall.

“One reason that birds matter – ought to matter – is that they are our last, best connection to a natural world that is otherwise receding. They’re the most vivid and widespread representatives of the Earth as it was before we arrived.” ~ Jonathan Franzen

A Wahlberg’s eagle is a seasonal intra-African migrant. This a small Brown eagle. Its short crest at the back of the head gives its a distinct “squared-off” look. Being smaller than the larger Brown eagles such as a Tawny or Steppe eagle, this eagles hunts mainly birds but will feed on reptiles if it can find them.

This Wahlberg’s eagle did not like being watched. This species can have many different morph colourations like the Tawny eagle.

A juvenile Verreaux’s eagle-owl in the grove of Apple-leaf trees next to the rock outcrop near Rock Camp. We regularly see a pair of adult Verreaux eagle-owls in this area but it is extra special to see the new generation.

A closer view of a young Verreaux’s eagle-owl still wide awake air mid-morning. This is the largest African owl and has distinctive bright pink eyelids.

At the other end of the owl size scale is the Pearl-spotted owlet. It is around a quarter the size of the Verreaux eagle-owl. This is one of the few owls which is active during the day and night. It has an iconic call which is a loud series of shrill, short whistles that accelerate in tempo and rise in volume to a crescendo of long, loud whistles that descend in pitch and volume “peu peu peu-peu-peu peeuu peeeuu”.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-V-hHieK27A

The pseudo eyes in the back of the head of a Pearl-spotted owlet. The eyes are yellow but at the back of the head there are two striking false black ‘eyes’ with a white outline.

An adult Black headed oriole is a daily visitor to the Rock Camp bird bath. It can usually be heard before it is seen. It has a beautiful clear liquid melodious whistle “bo bo weeu” interspersed with low drawn out screeching sounds. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kK_-9rCXSE

An adult Black-headed oriole with is vivid yellow body and black head with a bright red eye and pink beak.

An adult Green Wood hoopoe has a metallic dark green, with a purple back. It has a bright red bill and feet. Its tail is dark metallic blue with distinctive white chevrons. Its wings have white markings which are highly visible when it flies.

Green wood hoopoes move in family groups of around six members. They cackle like babblers and rock back and forth in regular group displays.

I have waited a long time to get a reasonable image of an African Paradise flycatcher. This flycatcher flits around in the upper branches of thickly leafed trees are usually difficult to photograph. A pair of African Paradise flycatchers are resident at Rock Camp during the summer months. Both the male and female have a blue-grey head and neck and chest and white belly. Their wings are a vivid ochre colour and they have a royal blue eye ring and beak. The female has a short tail and the male two luxurious long ribbon-like ochre coloured tail feathers.

An adult female African Paradise flycatcher.

An adult male Paradise flycatcher has similar colouring to the female but its crest is larger and it has the long ribbon-like ochre coloured tail feathers.

An adult male African Paradise flycatcher showing off his two long ribbon-like ochre tail feathers. This flycatcher is very vocal, often giving a repeated “dzee-zwee” call and a sweet melodic “willie-willie-willie-wee-wooo” song. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qeqAtMnVPO4

These trips to Mashatu are not exclusively for birding so we see many more species of birds than we photograph. We also do not specifically look for birds but these images are of birds we happen to see on our game drives. The birds seen at the camp’s bird baths come from a more dedicated view. Rocks which had in the past been used to mill maize and have been ground down to a saucer shape make ideal natural bird baths. I sit on the patio in plain sight of the birds and photograph in the period after brunch and before the afternoon tea when all our guests have gone for a midday snooze or quiet time to read. When the patio area is quiet it is quite amazing how many different species of birds fly into the bird bath for a drink or a bath to cool down.

The birds always fly into the branches near the bird bath to have a look around and ensure it is safe to approach for a drink or bath.

“True solitude is found in the wild places, where one is without human obligation. One’s inner voices become audible… In consequence, one responds more clearly to other lives.” ~Wendell Berry

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike