We stayed at Sabi River bungalows resort and used it as a springboard for our trips into Kruger Park in February this year. We usually enter the park through the Phabeni gate which is only 12 kilometres east of the town of Hazyview. Sabi River bungalows is only about four kilometres north west of Hazyview.

Once through the Phabeni gate we often turn right off the S1 onto Albasini road (S3) which takes us down to the H1-1, which is the main road from the Numbi gate to Pretoriuskop rest camp. The road is sand/gravel and is usually highly productive, from a birding point of view. The trick is to get into the park by 6h00 in summer because it is already light and the wildlife is more active before it gets too hot. The temperature can typically reach 35 degrees centigrade in this part of the world around midday.

“We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us.” ~ Anonymous

The S14 Fayi Loop exits the S8 just west of Pretoriuskop. The loop is around 13 kilometres long and enters Voortrekker road just east of Pretoriuskop. The loop should take a minimum of a 45-minutes to drive, though with good sightings it could take a couple of hours. This sand road winds through terminalia woodlands and areas of sickle-bush. The start of loop is characterised by granite outcrops and coarse, reddish soil, which supports unique vegetation known as Pretoriuskop sourveld. This is habitat for sable antelope, white rhino and other wildlife.

Just at the start of the Fayi loop we were lucky enough to see an African Cuckoo-hawk in the top of a large tree. This was only the second time I have seen an African Cuckoo-hawk. The first time was in Tembe Elephant Park many years ago.

The African Cuckoo-hawk is so named because it resembles a common cuckoo in terms of shape and colour from a distance. The male is blackish-brown above with a grey mantle and chest with a blackish crest, the underparts are white marked with broad chestnut bars. The tail is black with three grey bars and grey and white tip.

The African Cuckoo-hawk is a shy raptor and little is known about its behaviour as it is not often seen and has secretive habits preferring the edges of evergreen forests and deciduous woodlands. Chameleons are known to be a significant part of the African Cuckoo-hawk’s diet, though it will also go for other reptiles, insects and even small mammals and birds.

There are several large granite outcrops at the start of the Fayi loop. We always look for Klipspringers on the rocks and even a leopard lying in the shade watching over its territory from a high rocky vantage point. At the base of these granite outcrops we found many ‘Pride of De Kaap’ bushes. Pride of De Kaap has characteristic two-winged leaves. The petals of these florescences are oar-shaped and around 40 mm long. During late summer these bushes are adorned with florescences which usually range in colour from salmon to orange and yellow to white.

The Fayi tributary starts close to the H1-1 main road from Numbi gate to Pretoriuskop rest camp. The Fayi tributary flows south for a significant length of the Fayi loop before joining the Nsikazi tributary which flows down along the south west park boundary to join the Crocodile river at the southern end of Kruger.

“I know not how I may seem to others, but to myself I am but a small child wandering upon the vast shores of knowledge, every now and then finding a small bright pebble to content myself with.” ~ Plato

We found this diminutive African Dusky flycatcher hunting insects in a bush next to the side of the sand road.

This looked to be a juvenile with its spotty crown and light brown streaks on its breast. The adult has an almost plain beige crown and similar soft dark smudges on its breast.

Further along the loop we found several Southern African giraffe browsing on the trees. One male giraffe had several Red-billed oxpeckers grooming his neck and mane.

Both Red-billed and yellow-billed oxpeckers primarily feed on ectoparasites like ticks found on large mammals, but their feeding behaviours and preferences differ slightly. Yellow-billed oxpeckers tend to focus on larger ungulates and may consume more ticks and have a higher overall food intake, while red-billed oxpeckers show more flexibility in host choice and may also feed on wounds. The Yellow-billed oxpecker feeds by plucking to remove parasites from its host whereas the Red-billed oxpecker used a scissoring technique.

The Fayi loop crosses the Fayi tributary in two places. These are normally the areas where we see rollers, bishops, canaries and widowbirds and on occasions Malachite kingfishers. We found an obliging male White-winged widowbird in the reeds and bushes along the first tributary crossing. Perhaps the reason this male White-winged widowbird was so obliging was that he was distracted by all the females in the area.

“To live in the world without becoming aware of the meaning of the world is like wandering about in a great library without touching the books.” ~ Dan Brown

He was very busy trying to impress all the passing females, flying back and forth displaying his white and yellow wing coverts and fanning his tail feathers. He was also very vocal calling to all the females.

As we were driving down the hill towards the second tributary crossing we saw this Common buzzard. It was scouring the area from a high vantage point in a dead tree.

The Common buzzard is a summer visitor to this part of the world. The Common buzzards that migrate typically breed in the colder regions of Europe and Asia and migrate south for the northern hemisphere winter.

This species prefers the higher rainfall eastern and southern areas of southern Africa with grasslands and open savanna with tree cover. The Common or Steppe buzzard can be identified by the pale horizontal band across its breast which separates the streaked upper breast from the banded underparts. Common buzzards exhibit significant colour variations, with plumage varying from very dark to almost completely white.

In certain diffused light the iridescent blue-green sheen on the Greater Blue-eared Glossy starling really shows. The Cape, Blue-eared and Black-bellied glossy starlings are tricky to tell apart as they have a simmar GISS (general impression of size and shape) and all have the glossy iridescent sheen on their plumage and orange eyes. The Cape and Blue-eared glossy starlings occupy the same habitats. The Blue-eared is the most iridescent of all the glossy starling species and has a distinct patch of dark blue feathers on the ear coverts.

In the reedbeds along the Fayi tributary we found several very active Red-collared widowbirds who was also busy chasing females.

Male widowbirds typically display from a prominent position during the breeding season to attract females and establish territories. The displaying male will usually chase any other males away from his territory. This male Red-collared widowbird displayed his scarlet red collar and long black tail feathers to great effect.

Next to the bridge at the second crossing of the Fayi tributary we saw several canaries bathing and drying themselves on the grass stems next to the open water. I am not sure what this species was but I think it was a Streaky-headed seedeater because of its prominent long curved white eyebrow, fine streaks on its brown crown, grey-brown upperparts and beige underparts.

A Striped kingfisher perched in a dead tree next to the sand road. This species is an insect eater not a fisherman. It is identified by its black eye band and broad white collar. It has the kingfisher-type powder-blue upper tail coverts and blue tail feathers. Importantly for identification, this species has a black upper mandible and red lower mandible. It also has a small chubby GISS and a short tail.

As we were driving on the Sand road towards the end of the Fayi loop through the terminalia woodlands we found this slow moving Common flap-neck chameleon. Having just stepped out of the green grass at the edge of the road it had not yet adjusted its camouflage. Chameleons have a laterally compressed body shape with turret-like eyes which can move independently and in opposite directions.

Chameleons are adept climbers with a long prehensile tail which acts as an extra limb and opposable digits for grasping branches and twigs. Chameleons can hear, although they don’t have external ear openings. They have a pterygoid ear, which is most sensitive to sounds between 200 and 600 Hz, so their hearing is limited.

Chameleons feed on insects like grasshoppers, beetles, flies and butterflies. This reptile has many enemies not the least of which is the African Cuckoo-hawk and the Southern ground hornbill.

This young Tree squirrel had found an edible berry next to the road and ignored us as it was trying to break through the hard outer shell.

“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures that we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.” ~ Jawaharlal Nehru

As you might expect along the Fayi tributary, the Waterbuck were never far from water. Waterbuck are highly dependent on water because the drink daily and seek refuge from predators in the water.

We saw a Klipspringer family on virtually every granite outcrop along the Fayi loop. Klipspringers have specially adapted hooves to grip onto rock faces. Their hooves are cylindrical, blunt, and have rubbery, cartilaginous pads on the tips, which act like a suction cup, providing extra grip and shock absorption and in doing so provide excellent traction. They also walk on the very tips of their hooves, which enhances their grip and allows them to navigate rocky terrain with agility and speed.

The Fayi loop must have taken us about three hours to complete mainly because there was so much to see. Not only was there a wonderful variety of mammals, reptiles and birds but the flora is unique around the granite outcrops. The Fayi loop follows the Fayi tributary for a long section which is where you are likely to find mammals coming down to drink and many birds that are attracted by the water and reeds.

“Travel is not reward for working, it’s education for living.” ~ Anthony Bourdain

The next post will show images from Pretoriuskop rest camp which we usually stop at for fuel and because there is a remarkable variety of birds in the camp.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

In February this year, Helen and I used some of our timeshare points to spend a week at the Sabi River Bungalows resort operated by Southern Sun.

The resort is bounded on the north and east side by the Sabi river which flows on into Kruger Park. There is a beautiful 18 hole golf course at the resort and several small dams which are water hazards for the golfers and one large dam to test golfers and offer great sightings of its teaming birdlife.

“The goal of life is living in agreement with nature.” ~ Zeno of Citium

A Southern Black flycatcher is mainly insectivorous but will eat beetles, termites worms, spiders and centipedes. This character had been worm hunting, ever the opportunist. This species of flycatcher looks very similar to a Fork-tailed drongo but has a smaller body, a smaller beak and does not have a forked tail. Its eyes are brown not red eye like the Drongo.

A demure White-fronted bee-eater perched on the edge of a Natal Mahogany next to a fairway on the golf course. It was hawking insects from this perch in the heat of the late afternoon. The white front is its forehead and white throat band under its beak and black eye mask. It’s lime green upper parts, red throat, buff orange breast and powder blue undertail coverts make it unmistakable.

This Kurrichane thrush was busy flicking its beak through the leaf litter looking for worms, insects or small fallen fruit. This species of thrush has grey upper parts, a white belly, buff-orange flanks, a distinctive bright orange bill and eye-ring, and a pale throat with a broad black moustache.

A female Broad-billed weaver close to her nest in the reeds at the edge of the main dam in the resort. The female of this species has a yellow beak and heavy brown stripes on her buff coloured throat and breast.

A demanding Broad-billed weaver chick hanging on to a reed in a prominent place so that its parents would notice it.

One of two Woolly necked storks foraging for insects along the edge of one of the fairways on the resort’s attractive golf course. This stork has a dark brown body and wing plumage which in certain light has a green-bronze iridescence on the wings and breast. It has a distinctive white ruffled neck, a white tail, red eye and a dark salmon-tipped bill. These two individuals were fully habituated to all the human activity around them.

“A walk in nature walks the soul back home.” ~ Mary Davis

A male Pied kingfisher hovering over the dam zeroing in on a fish he had seen just below the surface of the water. The male is identified by his double black breast band, a thin continuous black band below and a thicker broken black band across his chest.

A special sighting of a male Half-collared kingfisher in the deep shade of a tree overhanging the edge of the main dam. The main difference between male and female Half-collared kingfisher lies in their beak. Males have an entirely black bill, while females have some red at the base of their lower mandible. Both sexes otherwise have similar vibrant blue upperparts, a white throat, and pale orange underparts, making them difficult to distinguish at a glance. The dark blue patches on either side of the neck form a half collar. The legs and feet are bright red. 

A Groundscraper thrush on a dead branch in the thickly wooded edge of the golf course in the section that follows the course of the Sabi river on the northern side of the resort. Given its indistinct black facial markings and black teardrop shaped spots that did not extend fully under its belly, so I presumed it was a juvenile.

A Green-backed heron perched on a horizontal branch overhanging the water in the main dam.

A Green-backed heron hunting from a support at the bottom of the weir at the northern end of the main dam.

Green-backed herons diet consists of small fish, frogs, and aquatic insects but will also eat small vertebrates, molluscs, crabs, and worms when they can find them. The main dam and the weir below it are ideal hunting areas for this species.

A Purple heron hunting from the edge of the lawns leading down to the river that feeds into the main dam. It was early in the morning which is why there was plenty of moisture on the grass. All herons have striking plumage, and the Purple heron is no exception with its distinctive reddish brown plumage, a black crown and reddish face with a black stripe below the eye and a white upper throat band.

“Those who contemplate the beauty of the earth find reserves of strength that will endure as long as life lasts.” ~ Rachel Carson

The Purple heron prefers hunting in dense vegetation, especially thick reedbeds. It, like most herons, is a stealth hunter which spears its prey with a strong jab using its long neck and sharp dagger-like beak.

A male Broad-billed weaver perched in the reeds close to his female and his nest at the edge of the main dam in the resort. The male is brown with a dark bill and a white dash on its forehead either side of its top mandible and a white sash on first few primary wing feathers on each wing.

The male makes a nest which is beautifully compact and globe-shaped. The nests are woven from thin reed strips and suspended between upright reed stems. The entrance is uniquely positioned near the top unlike most weavers which have the entrance to their nests on the underside. This particular character was stealing fibres from another nest to weave his latest creation.

A male Cattle egret flying into a heronry in a large acacia tree in the island in the middle of the dam. There were many egrets and herons in the three large acacias and of course a heronry is never quiet.

It amazes me how these regrets negotiate the huge acacia thorns as they fly in to land and feed their chicks, and manage to not impale themselves.

“The world will never starve for want of wonders; but only for want of wonder.” ~ G.K. Chesterton

The instantly recognisable summer visitor, the Woodland kingfisher, with its white underparts and black wing coverts and cobalt blue primary wing feathers and back. It also has a distinctive red upper mandible and black lower mandible. This species of kingfisher feeds mainly on insects. Its frequent trilling is a familiar sound of summer.

A Black crake negotiating the reeds below the weir at the northern end of the main dam. It’s all black plumage, red eyes and pink-red legs and vibrant yellow beak make this species instantly recognisable. The red is particularly vibrant in the breeding season.

The Black crake prefers marshes, swamps and wetland areas so it’s long toes are ideal for navigating reeds, mud and floating vegetation. This species of crake is omnivorous so its diet varies from earthworms and insects to small fish, frogs and seeds and parts of water plants.

The heronry in the large acacia trees and one Natal Mahogany on the island in the middle of the main dam is the nesting site for egrets and herons alike. We saw a few Black-headed heron families in trees on the island.

It was amazing to watch how aggressive the siblings of both the egret and heron species got with their own species. The Black-headed heron chicks had not yet fledged and vied for food from the parents. Even when the chicks had finished the food the parents brought the sparring went on.

A young African jacana walking over the reeds and long grass using its long toes in a similar manner to the Black crake.

We saw many Reed cormorants and African darters in the main dam. This particular darter was fishing near the edge of the dam where we were sitting. It came up for air and all we could see was a small section of its neck and head. An African darter can hold its breath for up to around 100 seconds. This species, also called ‘the Snakebird’ because of its its distinctive swimming behaviour, where it swims with only its long, slender neck and head above the water, resembling a swimming snake. It is a fast underwater swimmer which spears fish with its beak. Once the fish is speared the darter surfaces to toss the fish into the air to reposition it so it can catch it and swallow the fish head-first. This makes swallowing easier and avoids the dorsal fin spines jamming the fish in the bird’s throat.

“Always be on the lookout for the presence of wonder.” ~ E.B. White

We saw many more birds around the golf course and around the small dams. There was also the north and eastern boundary of the resort which followed the Sabi river. The vegetation was thick and the light dappled making the bird photograph tricky but we could hear many birds in the dense vegetation.

“The earth has music for those who listen.” ~ William Shakespeare

We have been to the Sabi River bungalows resort several times because not only is a wonderful place to stay but is an ideal springboard to get into the Kruger Park from the Phabeni gate. The next few posts will show images and stories from our travels around Kruger Park on this trip.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

This is the last post from our wonderful few days in the vulture hide in Giant’s Castle Reserve in the Drakensberg in November last year.

“Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” ~ Mahatma Gandhi

We saw two types of vulture during our time in the hide, the Bearded and the Cape. In 2015, the Cape vulture had been classified as Endangered on the IUCN Red List, but was down-listed to Vulnerable in 2021 as some populations increased and have been stable since about 2016. A few factors are thought to contribute to its vulnerable status. It is facing habitat loss and disturbance of nesting sites which is problematic because it is a slow breeder. It also faces human threats like poisoning because it only feeds on carrion.

“May the wind under your wings bear you where the sun sails and the moon walks.” ~ J. R. R. Tolkien

The Cape vulture has a low aspect ratio wing. This means its wingspan, relative to its width, is comparatively low, which is ideal for soaring. Their wingtips feature slotted or separated primary feathers which reduce wingtips vortices, lowering drag and stall speed which facilitate circling in thermals. The large wingspan allows them to glide long distances, catch thermals and ride updrafts. These vultures are known to fly at altitudes of up to 8000 metres and use their superior eyesight to look for food.

The Cape vulture’s plumage is cream-white to pale russet. It has a collar of fluffy white feathers on the back of its neck. It has a long bluish-grey neck which is mostly bare skin with a small tufts of white feathers on it. Its head and face are blue-grey and covered with short white, hair-like feathers.

The Cape vulture has pale yellow eyes and a dark black beak (which grows throughout its life). White-backed, as well as Cape Vultures, have a unique groove and serrated tongue which allows them to access soft flesh which may not be accessible with their beaks. The nostrils of a Cape vulture, like those of other vultures, are adapted for an acute sense of smell, crucial for locating food. They lack a septum (the dividing wall between nostrils), allowing air to pass straight through and enabling them to detect scents from a distance, even from high altitudes. Their sense of smell is not as acute as other vulture species especially when soaring at high altitudes, but it is still a valuable sense when scavenging for their meals.

According to Operationmigration.org, the Cape vulture is southern Africa’s only endemic vulture species. It does not migrate but can travel up to 100 kilometres looking for food. This species is one of the largest vultures in southern Africa with a wingspan of up to 2.6 metres and weighing up to 11kg. It is smaller than a Lappet-faced or Griffon but larger than a White-backed vulture. The female Cape vulture is typically larger than the male.

The Cape vulture is much easier to photograph than the Bearded vulture or the Jackal buzzard. The reason for this is that it is a slow flier, and flies in from above rather than using the updraft to fly in from below the feeding terrace like the Jackal buzzard and the Bearded vulture.

It is always a thrill when these raptors fly onto the feeding terrace. They are large and have “full flaps down” with extended wings to slow themselves when coming in to land. This action can produce dramatic images.

“One learns from books and example only that certain things can be done. Actual learning requires that you do those things.” ~ Frank Herbert

As with most raptors, the Cape vulture will land on the rocks at the far end of the feeding terrace. It will then look around to ensure that it is safe to walk into the middle of the feeding terrace. By standing on the rock at the far end of the terrace, the vultures have a quick get away as the rocks create a sharp ledge from which it launch themselves in the Bushman’s river valley below.

The Cape vulture nests on cliffs and lays only one egg each year, which must contribute to its vulnerability. This is unusual as all other vultures lay multiple eggs. This species is monogamous and so forms pair bonds for many seasons. Both parents take responsibility for incubating the egg for just under 60 days and feed the chick once it hatches. The chick usually fledges after four to five months but remains dependent on its parents for food for several months thereafter.

One of the features of the Giant’s Castle hide is that you can often see interactions between one or a few Cape vultures and the Black-backed jackals. The jackals visit the feeding terrace in front of the hide multiple times a day to steal the bones we put out for the vultures.

“Time spent outdoors reminds us that we’re part of something larger: a beautiful universe brimming with endless possibilities” ~ Unknown

The jackals are brazen when there is only one Cape vulture on the terrace and will usually intimidate the vulture by running toward it with its head down in a menacing manner. It is not so one-sided when there are a few vultures on the bones. The vultures have been known to nip the jackal’s face when it gets too close. That is where their long neck comes in handy!

I was surprised by the interaction between the Cape vulture and Yellow-billed kite. The vulture walked up to within about two metres of a large bone with plenty of flesh and fat on it and then just stood and looked around. In the meantime, the Yellow-billed kite flew straight onto the bone and began eating. For about five minutes the Cape vulture did nothing showing no aggression towards the kite.

Eventually the Cape vulture decided it wanted to eat and used its large size to push the kite away from the bone it was feeding on. The kite did not seem scared of the much larger vulture, perhaps because of its flying agility.

‘Coming in hot on finals’. This Cape vulture descended rapidly from a thermal which had carried it high above the Bushman’s river valley and the feeding terrace in front of the hide. I love seeing some of the covert feathers on top of its wings lift when landing, suggesting stall speed above sections of the wing.

“Going outside lets us appreciate life’s precious moments that pass too quickly indoors” ~ Anonymous

During a stall or high angle of attack manoeuvres, a raptor’s covert feathers, particularly the upper-wing coverts, can passively deploy, acting as aeroelastic flow control devices. This deployment helps mitigate flow separation, improve lift, and potentially delay or prevent stall, especially during landing or when encountering gusts.

On our last morning in the hide it was moody with intermittent sunlight between the rapidly moving clouds. On previous occasions we usually only saw one Cape vulture land on the feeding terrace at a time, and very occasionally two. On this particular morning we saw 12 Cape vultures progressively fly in and land in front of the hide.

The Black-backed jackal must have seen all the Cape vultures flying on the feeding terrace. The thief inevitably gate crashed the Cape vulture party. Surprisingly, this young Black-backed jackal ran in among the vultures and stole one of the larger bones.

According to Project vulture, there are about 2 900 breeding pairs in southern Africa, of which around 1 450 pairs reside in the Maloti-Drakensberg mountains- about 20% of the population.

Giant’s Castle is a spectacular reserve with vast vistas, big skies and an imposing sandstone and basalt buttresses as a backdrop. The vulture hide is positioned on the western side of a ridge on the east side of the large deep Bushman’s river valley. The views are incredible, and the moods constantly changing because of the weather.

“Adventure is the bridge between dreams and reality. When we walk across that bridge, we can explore the unknown and uncover hidden wonders. With every step, we move closer to our ambitions, passions, and goals. Adventure gives us the courage to take risks and make bold decisions – decisions that help shape our destiny.” ~ Unknown

We have always had superb avian sightings from the hide with fly-bys by Bearded and Cape vultures, Jackal buzzards, Lanner falcons, Rock kestrels and Yellow-billed kites. I am still waiting to see a Black eagle from the hide. We saw Bald ibises, White-necked ravens, Red winged starlings, Buff-streaked and Familiar chats, Yellow bishops and Cape canaries, Malachite and Greater double-collared sunbirds, Cape longclaws and so many more.

“Wherever you go, go with all your heart” ~ Confucius

You will also see Eland, Mountain reedbuck, Chacma baboons and Black-backed jackals. The White-necked ravens and Black-backed jackals will test your patience as they are consummate bone thieves.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its inter=connectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

Our visit to Giant’s Castle vulture hide was richly rewarded by all our raptor sightings but there was so much more. The raptors are the central attraction at the vulture hide, especially the Bearded and Cape vultures because of their rarity. But there is so much more to see when you are in the hide.

This post is mostly a gallery of images of the non raptors that we saw on and around the feeding terrace in front of the hide while waiting for the raptors to arrive.

“The lesson which life constantly repeats is to ‘look under your feet.’ 
You are always nearer to the divine and the true sources of your power than you think.
The lure of the distant and the difficult is deceptive.
The great opportunity is where you are.
Do not despise your own place and hour.
Every place is under the stars.
Every place is the center of the world.”
~ John Burroughs

The Cape canaries were regular visitors. This species of canary has a distinct grey nape and pure yellow-mustard coloured face. It is sometimes confused with the Yellow-fronted canary which also has a grey nape but a much bolder face pattern of black, yellow and grey. The latter also has a grey crown.

The male Cape canary has more vivid colouring than the female. This species of seedeater is gregarious and often seen in small noisy flocks.

The two most common bird species we saw in front of the hide was the Red-winged starling and White necked raven. In the sunlight, the Red-winged starling has a beautiful sheen to his dark blue plumage. Both the male and female of this species of starling have the rust red primary wing feathers which are distinctive in flight. This species also has a dark eye unlike the Pale-winged starling which has red-orange eye. The female has similarly coloured back and wing coloured plumage but she has an ash-grey head and upper breast.

When the weather is overcast, the dark blue sheen fades into a dark blue almost black colour but the red primary wing feathers are still distinctive.

White necked ravens were the thugs of the feeding terrace. They arrived in gangs and pushed all other birds off the bones. Like the Red-winged starlings, the White necked ravens are omnivores and come to the feeding terrace to feed on the fat on the bones we put out. This is a large bird and is bigger than a Pied or Black crow. It has a heavy beak with an arched upper mandible and a white tip to both mandibles. It uses its powerful beak to tear fat and flesh off the bones we leave out for the raptors.

“We are not above nature; we are a part of it.” ~ Paul Watson

White necked ravens are wonderful fliers and seem to love playing in the updrafts when the wind picks up. Ravens are part of the Corvid family and are the only passerine (perching) birds with the ability to soar.

White necked Ravens are almost exclusively cliff nesters so tend to prefer mountainous and hilly terrain where nest and roost sites are plentiful. This species is omnivorous and very happy to scavenge when the opportunity arises, so the feeding terrace is a favoured place for these ravens in Giant’s Castle reserve. White necked ravens have surprisingly strong necks and are able to pick up large bones with their beak and fly off down the valley with them, probably to feed in peace.

A Red-eye dove arrived at the feeding terrace not for the fat on the bones but for grass seed. The Red-eye dove looks very similar to the Cape turtle dove in that they both have a black ring on the back of their neck and their plumage, at a quick glance, is similar but the Red-eyed dove is larger and has darker grey upperparts. The Red-eyed dove also has a dark red eye with a thin surround of red skin around the eyes.

A Rock martin in flight catching the updraft next to the feeding terrace. The Rock martin has predominantly brown plumage which is paler toned on its breast and underwing coverts. In flight, it has distinct white windows on its spread tail in flight.

“There is an unreasonable joy to be had from the observation of small birds going about their bright, oblivious business” ~ Grant Hutchison

This Rock martin’s natural breeding habitat is hilly or mountainous terrain with cliffs and steep ridges which is why this species is regularly seen from the hide. Its flight is relatively slow with rapid wing beats interspersed with flat-winged glides.

Also commonly seen in front and around the hide is the Greater striped swallow. This species is constantly hawking small insects in mid flight. The Greater striped swallow prefers more open habitats with hilly or mountainous terrain. It is always great fun trying to capture images of these agile fliers in flight.

The Greater Striped swallow has distinct white patches on its tail feathers. These white patches, or “windows,” are found on the inner webs of the rectrices, except for the innermost two pairs. The tail itself is deeply forked and has elongated outer tail feathers forming streamers.

“Every thread you discover in the local web of life leads beyond your place to life elsewhere.” ~ Scott Sanders

The Lesser striped swallow has heavier and darker underpart striping, a deeper red rump, and a brighter head colour than the larger Greater striped swallow. The Greater striped swallow does not have the rufous ear coverts of its Lesser cousin.

One of the highlights of this trip was seeing a pair of Ground woodpeckers for the first time. This species has been on my wish list for years. Helen and I were driving down the steep section of track that provides access between the elevated ridge that the vulture hide is on with the valley far below that leads to the main road. As we were descending the particularly steep section of the track we suddenly noticed a bird flush from a nesting hole in the side of the road cutting. This bird landed on a large rock further down the steep incline. To my astonishment and delight it was a Ground woodpecker.

“You must have the bird in your heart before you can find it in the bush.” ~ John Burroughs

Woodpeckers are primarily known for their arboreal nesting and foraging. Occasionally, arboreal woodpeckers feed opportunistically on the ground. The Ground woodpecker is the only species of woodpecker that nests on the ground usually in wall of an earthen bank, and it forages terrestrially. Like all woodpeckers, the Ground woodpecker uses its stiff tail feathers for support and its has zygodactyl feet, meaning two toes forward and two backward, for effective gripping.

Once we had descended from the ridge into the valley below we came across a pair of Malachite sunbirds feeding on the nectar of this attractive fluorescence. The Malachite being a large sunbird dominates the smaller sunbirds on the fluorescences.

“Nobody can discover the world for somebody else. Only when we discover it for ourselves does it become common ground and a common bond and we cease to be alone.” ~ Wendell Berry

Malachite sunbirds prefer higher altitudes but can be found from sea level to mountains and from Ethiopia to Cape Town. The breeding male Malachite sunbird has the vibrant metallic green plumage but the female by contrast has brown upper parts and dull yellow underparts with some indistinct streaking on the breast. The female’s tail feathers are much shorter than the male’s and does not have the long central two tail streamer feathers.

While waiting for a Jackal buzzard to arrive on the feeding terrace, which we had heard in the valley below, along came what initially sounded like a pair of Hadeda ibises. They were flying down the Bushman’s river valley. I had never heard a Southern Bald ibis before so was surprised they sounded, to me, similar to the Hadeda ibis.

This was a special sighting as they are endangered. According to Fannsie Peacock’s Firefinch app, there are only around 7200 of these South African endemics remaining. This species prefers high-altitude grassland between 1200 and 1800 m, favouring short grass and recently burnt areas. It breeds in nearby rocky gorges and cliffs.

The day after our first sighting, we again saw this pair of Ground woodpeckers close to their nest in the earthen embankment where the access track cut through the side of the steep incline. This is the largest species of woodpecker in southern Africa and it can grow to between 22 cm and 30 cm in length. The upper parts are greyish-brown with pale spotting, and the rump is red and more visible in flight. The upper sides of wings and tail are brown barred with white. The underparts are buff, flushed with pink or red.

This pair of Ground woodpeckers seemed to prefer to perch on rocks close to the nest site. The diet of the ground woodpecker consists mainly of ants with their eggs, larvae and pupae. These are extracted from dead wood or between rocks, using its long, sticky tongue. One member of the pair seemed to be a sentry while the other foraged. The sentry was frequently looking up at the sky for threats.

The Speckled pigeons were daily visitors to the feeding terrace in front of the hide. They fly in very quickly so unless you see them coming from a distance, they crest the far edge of the feeding terrace in an instant. This species of pigeon flies in to feed mostly on grass seed on the feeding terrace. Like most pigeons and doves they fight by hitting each other with their wings.

This male Speckled pigeon flew in to try and mate with a female who had landed a few minutes earlier.

The sexes have similarly coloured plumage. Their back and wings are rufous in colour with white speckles. The upper and under parts are a blue-grey as it the head. It has a distinct red patch of bare skin around each eye. The male displays to the female by inflating his crop and puffing out his rufous neck feathers and bobbing his head up and down.

This post showed a small selection of the non raptors we saw from the vulture hide and driving to and from it. Every day was different. The variety of birds was different and usually their behaviour was different. The weather was variable with changing clouds, wind and light. This is a place for a photographer and birder alike to draw endless hours is intrigue and fascination.

“Whether we and our politicians know it or not, Nature is party to all our deals and decisions, and she has more votes, a longer memory, and a sterner sense of justice than we do.” ~  Wendell Berry

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

This is the third post about raptors seen from the Giant’s Castle vulture hide. The first post was about Jackal buzzards, the second, Bearded vultures and this is about Yellow-billed kites.

“The presence of a single bird can change everything for one who appreciates them.” ~ Julie Zickefoose

Kites and kestrels are both birds of prey, but they belong to different families and have distinct characteristics. Kites are medium to large raptors with long, broad wings and a forked tail, while kestrels are smaller falcons known for their hovering hunting style and pointed wings.

Three species of kite are found in southern Africa, the Yellow-billed, Black and Black-winged (previously Black-shouldered). Both Yellow-billed and Black kites are migratory. Black kites (Milvus migrans) migrate from Europe and parts of Asia to southern Africa, while yellow-billed kites (Milvus aegyptius) are intra-African migrants, meaning they migrate within the continent. In scientific names, “aegyptius” often indicates a connection to Egypt. Accordingly, the yellow-billed kite (Milvus aegyptius) is named for its presence in Egypt and surrounding regions. Yellow-billed kites breed in southern Africa during the summer months (August to March) and then migrate to central-east Africa for the winter (April to July). The Yellow-billed kite is usually one of the first migratory birds to arrive in southern Africa and as such is an early indicator of the arrival of spring.

“Migratory birds connect people, ecosystems, and nations. They are symbols of peace and of an interconnected planet.” ~ Antonio Guterres

The Yellow-billed and Black kite look very similar. Plumage colouration is dark brown though there is hue variation. While generally brown, the head and body are often a lighter shade of brown than their upper parts and wings. The tail is V-shaped. They are medium sized raptors, and although size variation occurs but on average they measure about 55 cms in height and weigh up to one kilogram and their wingspan can reach 1.5 metres.

The key distinguishing feature is the Black kite has a yellow beak with a black tip while the Yellow-bill has a pure yellow beak. Despite looking so similar the Yellow-billed and Black kite are genetically different. The eyes of both the Yellow-billed and Black kite are dark brown.

Yellow-billed kites are opportunistic scavengers. They can often seen hovering and swooping down on roadkill or stealing food from other birds. This raptor’s diet comprises mostly small rodents, frogs and insects. I have seen Yellow-billed kites successfully catching small fish that have come to the surface in the Chobe river. Yellow-billed kites and Lesser Spotted eagles can often be found together feeding on a flying ant emergence. Flying ants emerge on mass from their nests during specific weather conditions in the summer, primarily for mating purposes.

The Yellow-billed kites show their opportunistic scavenging character when they come to the vulture hide specifically to feed on the flesh and fat on the bones we put out on the feeding terrace in front of the hide.

This adult Yellow-billed kite did not seem particularly scared of the much larger Cape vulture close by. This was probably because the Yellow-billed is a smaller and considerably more nimble.

All birds that flew to the feeding terrace shared a common behavioural characteristic. They all landed on the rock ledges at the far end of the feeding terrace to establish whether it was safe to feed in the open on the terrace. Once they had established that the terrace was safe, the Yellow-billed and even the Jackal buzzard would fly across the feeding terrace to within 10 to 15 metres of the hide to feed on the flesh and fat on the bones.

While Yellow-billed kites have talons for grasping prey, their hunting style emphasises speed and agility in the air rather than the strength of their talons. Their diverse diets suggests they don’t need extremely strong talons to take down and subdue large prey. Their agility and maneuverability in flight enable them to snatch prey like insects and small birds while airborne. This is why we never saw a Yellow-billed kite try to fly off with a bone with flesh and fat on it. This species preferred to feed on the nutrients on the bone on the ground.

Yellow-billed kites are known to have a high aspect ratio wing. This means their wings are long and narrow relative to their width. This wing shape enables them to be excellent gliders and soarers allowing them to efficiently use air currents for lift and maneuverability. They can stay aloft for extended periods with minimal effort, conserve energy, and cover long distances.

“Everyone likes birds. What wild creature is more accessible to our eyes and ears, as close to us and everyone in the world, as universal as a bird?” ~ David Attenborough

The large forked tail of the Yellow-billed kite plays a crucial role in its agility and maneuverability during flight. The tail acts like a rudder, allowing the kite to make precise adjustments in direction and speed. A necessary requirement in the turbulence of the updrafts.

While generally seen alone, this species of kite can congregate in large numbers at certain times, when food is abundant. Such instances are during the impala lambing season when they try to feed on the afterbirth, or flying ant emergences, or even mass fish hatching where the young fish come to the surface for the higher oxygen levels and to gulp air to fill their swim bladders (for buoyancy).

I have never seen inter species fighting on the feeding terrace. The larger raptor usually forces the smaller bird to retreat without physical interaction. That said, Peter Steyn relates several incidents of having once witnessed two Yellow-billed kites collaboratively attacking an African Fish-Eagle, forcing this big raptor to abandon its meal, while on another occasion they took a 15-cm barbel out of the beak of a Woolly-necked Stork.(www.bird.krugerpark.co.za).

A view of the ridge looking west down on the vulture hide which is positioned among the rocks on the right hand side in the distant foreground. The openness, big sky and vast vistas make this place endlessly fascinating.

It is only when you look closer at the features of this species of kite do you realise its superb physiological and behavioural adaptation to its environment.

“The measure of intelligence is the ability to change.” ~ Albert Einstein

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

This post is the second focusing on the raptors seen and photographed at the Giant’s Castle vulture hide. It focuses on Bearded vultures which are always the highlight of our time in the hide in this reserve. This KwaZulu-Natal nature reserve in uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park, South Africa. It offers breathtaking views of deep valleys, grassy plateaus and craggy mountains. The uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, is a World Heritage Site. Giants Castle Nature Reserve occupies the central section.

“I am soaring, boundless, and free, and I know living my dreams is never a question of time but one of purpose” ~ Leo Lourdes

The next image was taken from a ridge above and behind the hide and shows the scene across the Bushman’s river valley. The tussock grasslands were green due to the summer rain.

The most-elevated stretch of the Drakensberg, in eastern and southern Lesotho. It is composed of severely eroded basalt capping a sandstone base. The next image of a lone adult Bearded vulture soaring high above the Bushman’s river valley and was taken looking west with the massive sandstone Long Wall on the far side of the valley in the background.

The Central Drakensberg is characterised by pinnacles, and broken and fractured blocks which form a massive steep eastern scarp 3,000 to 3,300 metres high along the length of the border between Lesotho and KwaZulu-Natal. The southern scarp is 2,400 to 3,000 metres high and lies along the length of the Lesotho–Eastern Cape province border.

The air flow along the Bushman’s river valley generates useful updrafts for the larger raptors. They can soar and glide for hours up and down and along the valley with minimal wing work. The Bearded vultures soar along either side of the valley and high above it. Presumably they collect thermals which enable theme to climb high above the valley floor.

The Bearded vultures continually look below see if there are bones scattered on the ground. Often they will fly past bones that we have put out on the feeding terrace a few times. They are looking at how busy and crowded the feeding terrace is and whether the jackals and baboons are in the area.

“The larger the island of knowledge, the longer the shoreline of wonder.” – Ralph W. Sockman

The Bearded vulture has a high aspect ratio wing, which is well-suited for soaring and gliding flight. This means that the wings are long and narrow relative to their width. The high aspect ratio (wing span^2/wing area), combined with the bird’s light wing loading, allows it to utilise even weak air currents for efficient soaring over mountainous terrain enabling it to stay aloft for extended periods with minimal effort, even in weak updrafts.

The Bearded vultures often fly at low altitude in the Bushman’s river valley. They are continually scouring the valley floor floor for feeding opportunities.

“Soar with wit. Conquer with dignity. Handle with care.” ~ Criss Jami

It is a thrill to watch these large raptors effortly glide past the hide. At times they can be as close as 40 metres from the ridge face.

Bearded vultures have red sclera, the white part of the eye. It is actually a vascularised ring of tissue called the scleral ring that can be flushed with blood to intensify the red colour. This intensification is used in threat displays, where the vulture can make itself look more imposing by increasing blood flow to the ring.

No matter the age colouring of the plumage, once fledged each Bearded vulture is a highly capable rider in the skies.

While the Bearded vultures do spend long periods soaring over the Bushman’s river valley they do land and sit on ledges overlooking the valley. The black eye plumage around the eyes suggest that this feature reduces the glare from the sunlight while they are soaring and gliding. Early in the morning, on the east side of the valley this adult took perceptual advantage of the shade.

“Our intuitions will be our biggest liabilities, and our imaginations will be our greatest assets.” ~ Ed Yong

The adult Bearded vulture is a large raptor with a wingspan of between 230 to 280 centimetres and a body length of 94–125 cm. Birds fly over a large speed range morphing their wings and tail to modulate aerodynamic force production. At slower speed, first the wings extend and sweep forward, spreading laterally, and at even slower speed, the tail spreads, in addition to the wings.

As large as the Bearded vultures are, they do not get it all their own way. The White necked ravens often harass them in flight. Needless to say the ravens are nothing more than an irritation for these gliding giants.

The colour of the facial plumage is a good indicator of age of Bearded vulture. The younger the individual the blacker the face and it gets progressively whiter with age. The adult’s white facial plumage gets progressively rust coloured. This is due to a cosmetic behaviour where they bathe in iron-rich mud. This colouration is thought to be linked to individual dominance and possibly other factors like feather protection or even anti-bacterial properties. 

“It is a wholesome and necessary thing for us to turn again to the earth and in the contemplation of her beauties to know the sense of wonder and humility.” ~ Rachel Carson

Although I can get a sense of the size of these Bearded vultures when they fly past, their size becomes even more apparent when they come in to land on the feeding terrace. Whilst I have seen many landing over the years I have not picked up any consistent cue that signals this vulture is coming in to land. There are times when the Bearded vulture flies past the feeding terrace then circles back and flies directly onto the terrace. The direction of arrival is dependent on the direction of the wind which shifts around all time.

Bearded vultures in the Drakensberg are called the “bone eaters of the berg”.

The Bearded vultures, juvenile and adult alike, land at the far end of the feeding terrace. Normally only one Bearded vulture lands at a time but on two occasions I have seen two Bearded vultures feeding on the bones on the flat rocks at the far end of the feeding terrace.

On this occasion, this mature adult landed and picked up a large bone with plenty of flesh and fat on it and flew off with it. Bearded vultures have strong feet which are adapted for carrying bones, and perching and walking on rocky terrain. In contrast to the powerful talons of eagles and hawks, a vulture’s feet are not designed for killing prey. Their talons are relatively blunt compared to those of other raptors, which is an adaptation for their scavenging lifestyle.

Bearded vultures do not hunt live prey. This is the only species of vulture which feeds predominately on bones, which comprise between 70% and 90% of their diet. If the bone is too big to swallow, the Bearded vulture will carry it up to as much as 100 metres above a section of flat rocks, called ossuaries. It then drops the bone onto rocks below to break it down, and in some cases expose the marrow.

A view from behind the vulture hide looking west over the Bushman’s river valley on the steep scarp of the section called the Long Wall. The feeding terrace is the relatively flat section of low grass in front of the hide where we place the bones.

The Bearded vulture is categorised as Critically Endangered with an estimated population of less than 250 individuals according to the South African Red Data list. This species is considered Near Threatened by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red Data list.

In southern Africa, the majority of Bearded vultures are found in the Maloti-Drakensberg Mountains of Lesotho and South Africa. Specifically, they are often seen in the Drakensberg Escarpment and surrounding foothills, but rarely below 1000 meters above sea level.

“Every species is a masterpiece, exquisitely adapted to the particular environment in which it has survived. Who are we to destroy or even diminish biodiversity?” ~ Edward O. Wilson

Watching all raptors gliding past the vulture hide is a thrill and it is hard not to be impressed by their effortless soaring. It is a special thrill to watch the large Bearded vulture glide at levels as low as 50 metres above the valley floor and thousands of metres above the feeding terrace, all the while riding the updrafts and thermals. The fascinating aspect is that each time we have spent time in the hide we see and learn something new about these Critical Endangered vultures – a privilege indeed.

“The more clearly we can focus our attention on the wonders and realities of the universe about us, the less taste we shall have for destruction.” ~ Rachel Carson

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

One of the best reasons for visiting Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve is its vulture hide. The hide is about five kilometres north of the camp on top of an elevated ridge on the east side of the Bushman’s River valley. The vulture hide in Giant’s Castle National Reserve is always productive from a birding and photographic point of view.

“Birds will give you a window, if you allow them. They will show you secrets from another world– fresh vision that, though it is avian, can accompany you home and alter your life. They will do this for you even if you don’t know their names– though such knowing is a thoughtful gesture. They will do this for you if you watch them.” ~ Lyanda Lynn Haupt

The Jackal buzzard got its name from its call. This strikingly plumed raptor is named for its loud, yelping call that sounds a lot like a Black-backed jackal. One, and often the pair, can be heard calling as they fly above the Bushman’s river valley. When in the hide you have to be wide awake because the raptors do not make a sound when they approach the feeding terrace in front of the hide. At least when the Jackal buzzards call, you know they are in the area. It’s time to keep a more attentive eye out for them.

This species of buzzard is regularly seen perched on rocks, trees and utility poles in open areas, scanning for prey. It is also known to hunt on the wing. This raptor “still-hunts” by dropping on its prey from a perch, which is either a tree or roadside pole or post. It takes its prey almost exclusively on bare ground, including roads.

“Watching birds soar through the sky evokes feelings of freedom, inspiration and a connection with nature.” ~ Unknown

The Jackal buzzard feeds mainly on small ground mammals, especially rodents but can take prey up to the size of a hare. It will also feed on ground feeding birds varying from nestlings to sandgrouse, francolins and spurfowl.

During the winter months, the Jackal buzzard will scavenge at carcasses and road kill. This scavenging behaviour is what attracts them to the feeding terrace in front of the hide. Visitors who have booked the hide are given a bucket of cut bones with lots of fat and flesh on them. The fat on the bones also attracts the Red-winged starlings and White-necked ravens.

While the Jackal buzzards do spend time tearing fat and flesh off the bones on the feeding terrace. They also regularly fly off into the valley below carrying large bones with most of the nutrients still on them. During the breeding season they carry food back to their chicks. During the non-breeding season they probably just want to eat in peace without being harassed by the gangs of White-necked ravens.

The tail of Jackal buzzards is typically rufous and distinctive in flight.

A Jackal buzzard female is larger than the male and has a deeper pitched call. A breeding pair can often be seen engaging in impressive aerial displays while regularly calling to each other. This aerial displaying occurs outside the breeding season. Jackal buzzards are generally monogamous and form pair bonds for life. Although some instances of polyandry (one female with multiple males) have been observed.

Jackal buzzards exhibit significant variation in their underpart colouration, with three main colour morphs observed. The upper parts are typically a slate-grey with flecks of white. The underparts display a range of patterns and colours. The typical Jackal buzzard colouring is a slaty-grey neck with white flecks, a rufous chest patch, and a black-and-white barred belly.

Among the three colour morphs of the Jackal Buzzard the typical morph remains the most common. Both the dark and the pale morphs are rarer. The colour morphs are generally defined by the appearance of the chest band that extends across the body of the individual. In most individuals, this band is predominantly rufous in colour, with the presence of white and black. In the pale and dark morphs, this band can lack one or even two of the three colours. In dark morphs, you will find that the chest band can be completely black. In pale morphs, there will usually be a lack of rufous colouring, and they will be mostly white.

“On a day like this, I can’t imagine anything better that might happen in a person’s life than for them to start paying attention to birds—to become aware of this magical world that exists all around us, unnoticed by many but totally captivating for those who know its secrets.” ~ Kenn Kaufman

The Jackal buzzard has a very short tail, broad wings, bulky body and large beak compared to most other buzzards (besides the Augur buzzard). Jackal buzzards have a relatively large wing area which facilitates higher wing loadings but results in their lower aspect ratio which does reduce their flight speeds

The combination of a relatively large wingspan ranging from 1.2 to 1.4 metres and wide wing panels suggest a relatively low aspect ratio. This ratio is the square of the wingspan divided by the wing area. Low aspect ratio wings, characterised by their short, wide shape, are beneficial for several reasons. They offer increased maneuverability and higher roll rates. They also produce more drag, lower flight speeds and can be less efficient for sustained flight. This is where the strong winds and updrafts in the hills and mountains help.

The adult Jackal buzzard is strikingly plumaged and arguably one of the most “handsome” buzzards. It has distinctive black and rufous plumage with patches of white. When seen in flight from below and above, the adult Jackal Buzzard shows white flight feathers with black tips forming a broad black terminal band. The underwing and overwing coverts are black. All colour forms have pale rufous tail feathers.

Jackal Buzzards are medium to large Buzzards with a body length of 44-55 cm. Females are generally larger than males,and their weights ranging from 1.0 kg to 1.7 kg.

This species is endemic to Southern Africa and usually found in mountainous and hilly regions above altitudes around 3000 metres. Their range extends from the north-west of Namibia and through most of South Africa. Their preference is for mountainous and hilly areas with short grass and low vegetation coverage where associated strong winds and updrafts help hovering and assist their hunting behaviour.

“Blue, blue windows behind the stars,
Yellow moon on the rise,
Big birds flying across the sky,
Throwing shadows on our eyes.” ~ Neil Young

The Jackal buzzard is of least concern on the IUCN Red list. This means that the species is not currently considered to be facing a high risk of extinction in the wild. The population trend is believed to be stable.

There are periods in the hide that can be deadly boring. Nevertheless, you have to be constantly alert because the raptors, and many larger birds, do not give any warning that they are flying in towards the feeding terrace. Often they emerge above the terrace flying at speed and with purpose. If you are not ready you will miss the incoming drama and only see the raptor when it has landed and is walking towards the bones.

“Birds flying high you know how I feel
Sun in the sky you know how I feel
Breeze driftin’ on by you know how I feel
And this old world is a new world
And a bold world
For me
And I’m feeling good
I’m feeling good.” ~ Nina Simone

The thrill of watching a large raptor flying toward the feeding terrace is hard to describe. Often the approach results in a flyby but every now and then an individual will land. Usually the raptor will land on the rocks at the far end of the feeding terrace and check to see if there are any threats. If they sense the all is clear they fly closer to feed on the bones. These approaches create the best photographic moments.

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

Helen and I visited Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve, one of our favourite places in South Africa, in November last year. We try to visit this reserve at different times of the year to experience the differences in the wildlife, flora and scenery each time.

“There is no time to be bored in a world like this.” ~ Unknown

Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve is located in the southern end of central section of uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park. The latter is a World Heritage Site. The Drakensberg rises to more than 3,475 metres and extends roughly northeast to southwest for 1 125 km parallel to the southeastern coast of South Africa.

The most-elevated stretch of the Drakensberg, in eastern and southern Lesotho, is composed of severely eroded basalt capping a sandstone base. Its pinnacles, broken and fractured blocks present a steep eastern scarp of 3 000 to 3 300 metres in elevation along the length of the border between Lesotho and KwaZulu-Natal; a steep southern scarp of 2 400 to 3 000 metres in elevation lies along the length of the Lesotho–Eastern Cape province border.

“Wilderness is not a luxury but a necessity of the human spirit.” ~ Edward Abbey

The main hutted camp in Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve overlooks the Bushman’s river. Looking west from the camp up the Bushman’s river you will see Giant’s Castle peak which is 3 314 metres high. Giant’s Castle gets its name from the outline of the peaks and escarpment that combine to resemble the profile of a sleeping giant.

Giant’s Castle Nature Reserve is about four and a half hour’s drive from Johannesburg depending on road conditions. After checking in and getting settled in our chalet we went for a late afternoon walk along the Bushman’s river trail towards the main caves. This walk revealed many birds on the rocks and on the trees, shrubs and proteas alongside the path. November is summer in South Africa so most of the birds had already adorned their breeding colours. They looked like jewels in the sunshine.

A male Greater double-collared sunbird in full breeding colours perched on a twig jutting out of a lichen encrusted branch of an Oldwood tree.

A Green white eye perched on a young shoot of an Oldwood tree in front of our chalet.

We can see three species of White-eye in South Africa, the Cape, Green, and Yellow. The Green White-eye has a broken white eye ring at the point closest to its beak and has a greenish breast and belly colouring. By contrast, the Cape White eye has the same broken white eyering but its flanks, breast and belly colour is grey.

A Bush Blackcap in a deciduous shrub in front of our chalet. This species has a distinct blackcap and a coral red beak and its underparts are light grey.

The Bush Blackcap has a melodious call. It is musical and varied. With this character singing so beautifully in front of our chalet and sitting in such an open position I just had to pick up my camera and photograph it.

There are numerous Kurrichane thrushes in and around the Giant’s Castle camp. More often than not you will find this species on the ground flicking through loose leaf litter with its beak, probably searching for earthworms. This species has an orange beak and orange flanks. It had been raining so the black malar stripe was not evident. It has the typical repetitive thrush whistle.

“Just living is not enough… one must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower.” ~ Hans Christian Andersen

On our walk out of camp along the trail to the main caves we found this male Buff Streaked chat which was very talkative from his prominent position on the large rocks alongside the path. He has a distinct buff eyebrow, a black face mask and neck and an orange breast which fades to white at his belly and vent. He has distinct black wing and tail feathers. The female is a buff colour but not nearly as strikingly coloured.

A male Malachite sunbird in the process of regrowing his breeding colours. He was perched on a protea stem trying to hang on in a stiff wind. Once he has grown his full breeding plumage he will be a bright metallic green all over and will have a yellow shoulder sash. His tail will consist of two long middle tail feathers.

“The lure of the distant and the difficult is deceptive. The great opportunity is where you are.” ~ John Burroughs

A male Malachite sunbird in full breeding plumage perched on a dead shrub next to a large boulder trying to get some protection from the strong wind gusting down the Bushman’s river valley.

A male Cape canary on a lichen encrusted rock. The male has a grey nape and mustard yellow face throat, breast and belly.

This male Canary was on his own. The female is a buff colour with heavy streaking on her breast and belly.

A Cape long claw watching the passers by from a prominent bush. This species is one of three in Southern Africa. It has a distinctive orange throat. Like all longclaws it has a black colour, cryptic upper parts and a long hind claw to help it climb over long grasses.

The Bush Blackcaps were very obliging on this trip. In the past I have struggled to see them out in the open.

An adult Gurney’s sugarbird perched on top of a shrub soaking in the late afternoon sun after a rain shower. This species of sugarbird looks and behaves in a similar manner to sunbirds but is in a different family and is much larger than all the sunbirds. This species can often be found on the protea roupelliae, the Silver sugarbush.

“May I dust you lightly with my charisma.” ~ Peter Carroll

In South Africa we can see two species of sugarbird but only the Gurney’s sugarbird is found in the Drakensberg. It has a rufous breast and cap. It has a yellow vent similar to bulbuls. The Gurney’s sugarbird has long tail feathers but they are much shorter than those of the Cape sugarbird.

These were just a few of the birds we saw on our first afternoon at the Giant’s Castle Camp. The weather was variable with sunshine, heavy clouds, winds and sporadic rain showers all of which we expected in late November in this part of the world.

Sunset looking up the Bushman’s river toward Giant’s Castle.

The main purpose of the trip was firstly to get into the wild to refresh our souls with mountain air and allow our eyes to glide over spectacular vistas. The second reason was to spend five days in the Bearded vulture hide. With the weather being so variable we decided one or two days at the hide would be a hit an miss in terms of photographic and avian sighting productivity.

“Wealth is the ability to fully experience life.” ~ Henry David Thoreau

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

This is the last post showing images and telling stories from my fascinating trip to Zakouma National Park with DougMac Safaris in March this year. One of the wonderful aspects about our game drives with Doug MacDonald was the afternoon game drives did not end with a drive back to the Tinga camp after sundowners. Each evening Doug, and our driver Torgi, would show us the “nightlife” in Zakouma.

“To find the universal elements enough; to find the air and the water exhilarating; to be refreshed by a morning walk or an evening saunter… to be thrilled by the stars at night; to be elated over a bird’s nest or a wildflower in spring – these are some of the rewards of the simple life.” ~ John Burroughs

Each evening we would drive around the eastern section of the park which was mainly the floodplain ecosystem. The days were hot and sunny and the sun set around 18h30. After a sundowner we would jump back on the game vehicle and spend another, at least, two hours looking for nocturnal birds and animals.

One of our sundowner spots was in the southern section of the park. We visited one large pan to watch millions of queleas flying in to drink and roost for the night. Wave after wave of huge flocks of queleas flew to the pan. They created murmurations as they flew down to drink water from the pan. Queleas spend a second or so to drink and then fly off. The sheer number of queleas flying in and out to drink created these murmurations which meandered around the pan. We watched this spectacle for around an hour before it got too dark to see the birds but sound of hundreds of thousands of queleas was quite deafening.

We managed to see African civets on most evening game drives. Interestingly, the nocturnal mammals like civets were not unduly scared by the vehicle or the spotlight, probably because we were not to close to them. Civets have striking markings with bushy coats with black and white spots and stripes. According to Africa Geographic, Civets are creatures of habit at night, moving along regular pathways at a slow, tentative walk with heads held low and relying on an acute sense of smell to guide them to their next meal. They have a broad and indiscriminate palate that extends to small mammals, birds and their eggs, invertebrates, fruit and even carrion.

Individual civets are recognised by the details of their dark face masks, which resemble those of a raccoon, and also white neck stripes but the two species are unrelated. It has a long mane of fur on its back which it erects when threatened to display an aggressive posture. This species has large strong hindquarters and is a good swimmer and good tree climber.

The African civet is the sole surviving member of the Civettictis genus, the largest member of the Viverridae family in Africa. It is a fierce and agile predator, and when cornered, has a defensive growl which is surprisingly deep and unnerving.

“Walking through darkness with thoughts full of colours”.” ~ Prajakta Mhadnak

Civets have middens called civettries. Key signposts such as trees adjacent to these civettries and along well used paths are marked with a pungent pale-yellow pheromone from perineal glands near the anus known as civetone. When concentrated civetone is putrid smelling but when diluted has a pleasant musky smell. Civetone has been used in perfumery as a fixative, enhancing the longevity of other fragrances and adding a musky animalic note. It is one of the oldest known perfume ingredients. According to Pairfum London, traditionally, civet was obtained by scraping the civet paste from the anal glands of wild civets, a process that raised concerns about the animals’ welfare. Today, the perfume industry has largely moved towards using synthetic civet such as ambretone. This synthetic version not only addresses ethical concerns but also offers greater consistency and control over the final product.

The African wild cat remained elusive. This species is also called the Near Eastern wildcat in Chad. The African wildcat is part of the park’s diverse feline population, which also includes lions, leopards, cheetahs, servals, and caracals. We never saw a cheetah or a caracal, much to Sabrina’s (one of the guests in our group) disappointment. This species of cat is characterised by its sandy grey fur, pale vertical stripes on their sides and around their faces, and is small to medium in size. This diminutive cat species is a solitary hunter, crepuscular (active during dusk and dawn) and territorial. It preys mainly on rodents, birds, reptiles and insects.

Two types of duikers can be seen in Zakouma but we only saw the Common duiker clearly and a fleeting sighting of the Red-flanked duiker in the shadows of the spotlight. This species is primarily nocturnal but most active at dusk and dawn. It is shy and elusive. The duiker is omnivorous and browses on bushes, small trees as well as roots, bark, flowers, seed and fruits. It is also known to eat caterpillars, frogs, lizards and even nestling birds.

According to SANBI (South African National Biodiversity Institute), duikers are named for their diving behaviour. The word “duiker” is derived from the Afrikaans word “duik,” which means “to dive,” and the Dutch word “duiken,” meaning “to dive”. This name is appropriate because duikers, when startled, often dive into thick undergrowth to hide from predators.

“Dwell on the beauty of life. Watch the stars, and see yourself running with them.” ~ Marcus Aurelius

Zakouma National Park is home to two species of nightjars, the Long-tailed and Standard-winged Nightjar. The Long tailed nightjar is regularly seen on night drives. The easiest way to photograph it is when it is on the ground. It plumage is cryptic and camouflages well with its surroundings during the day. Nightjars hunt insects mostly at dusk and dawn, but also during the night. Nightjars have a wide gape with bristles around their mouth which help them to capture insects in the dark. Nightjars have high aspect ratio (long and thin) wings which are ideal for their nocturnal hunting which requires high-speed aerial manoeuvres and efficient gliding.

Two species of eagle-owl are found in Zakouma the Verreaux’s and Greyish eagle-owl. The latter is also known as the Vermiculated eagle-owl which is only found in the northern part of sub-Saharan Africa in a variety of woodland and savanna habitats. This is a large owl with a body length of around 43cm and is recognised by its ear tufts. It differs from the Spotted eagle-owl in having dark brown (not yellow) eyes and a brownish facial disk marked with a heavy brown circle around each eye.

“The owl,” he was saying, “is one of the most curious creatures. A bird that stays awake when the rest of the world sleeps. They can see in the dark. I find that so interesting, to be mired in reality when the rest of the world is dreaming. What does he see and what does he know that the rest of the world is missing?” ~ M.J. Rose

The Greyish eagle-owl has mottled dark brown, buff, and white upper parts and finely barred (vermiculated) underparts giving a greyish-brown appearance. This species is lighter than the Spotted eagle-owl and has shorter tarsi.

We saw many Servals, sometimes three or four on a single night drive. They were regularly seen hunting along the pans. This is a medium sized cat with long leg and a long neck. Their pelage is tawny with black spots. They have large ears which gives them acute hearing.

“Life isn’t just about darkness or light, rather it’s about finding light within the darkness.” ~ Landon Parham

We were never really got close to the Servals we saw. This meant they were not spooked by the vehicle or the spotlight. Servals have long strong back legs and are known for their jumping ability. The can leap vertically two to three metres and horizontally up to four metres. This incredible jumping prowess allows them to catch prey like birds in mid-flight or pounce on rodents in tall grass.

Servals have an acute hearing. Their large, almost “radar dish” ears help them pinpoint the faintest sounds, even those of prey moving underground. This makes them very effective hunters in dense vegetation where vision is limited. Their acute hearing together with their pouncing ability enables them to hunt birds and rodents in long grass even when they can not see their prey.

A lone Side-striped jackal caught under the spotlight while it was resting. This is a nocturnal jackal which is bigger than the Black-backed jackal.

The Side-striped jackal is omnivorous. Its diet changes according to the environmental conditions. Diet includes small mammals, carrion, fruits, maize, reptiles, eggs and birds. The Side-striped Jackal is less predatory than the Black-backed Jackal.

We were told that seeing a leopard in Zakouma was unusual. There is abundant prey for leopard in this park but their numbers are relatively low compared to other wildlife parks. One of the reasons suggested could be the abundance of troops of Olive baboons. Some estimations are that there are less than 75 individual leopards in Zakouma National park.

This adolescent male leopard seemed unfazed by us. Again thanks to Doug’s expertise we were outside the fight-flight distance. This male quietly went down to the water’s edge and drank in his own time.

After sating his thirst he wandered back towards the tree line around the pan. He was alert and attentive to every sound and movement around him. The recovery in the numbers of prey in Zakouma over the past decade and a half bode well for the expansion of the leopard population.

A White Tailed mongoose foraging at the edge of a pan. This species is the largest of the mongoose family and is nocturnal. Its coat is dark-grey in colour, and the tails are distinctive with long, white hairs. Legs are black and front limbs appear short. It feeds mainly on insects, termites, beetles, grasshoppers and crickets and will go for amphibians, rodents and snakes, when available.

According to Doug, a White-tailed mongoose with a black tail can be seen in Zakouma. A melanistic morph of the tail colour only.

We also saw many genets on our nightly game drives. We saw both the Large and Small-spotted genet on different occasions. Genets belong to the Viverridae family, with civets as their closest relatives. They are more closely related to hyaenas than cats. Genets have long feline-looking body with short legs and a long tail. Their facial shape is sharp and mongoose-like. They all have a black dorsal stripe, spotted coats, banded tails and high-set oval ears. The large-spotted genet has a smaller dorsal crest than its small-spotted relative and is the most widely distributed of the two species. All species have retractable claws adapted to climbing and catching prey.

The two key distinguishing features between the Large and Small spotted genet is firstly the large species is noticeably bigger than the small species. Secondly, the Large species has a black tip to its long tail while the Small spotted genet has a white tip to its long tail.

On our last sundowner next to the pan where we saw the young male leopard, we saw flocks of Black-crowned night herons fly to the pan. We found a juvenile Black-crowned night-heron which had caught a large catfish (for its size). We watched it continually beat this catfish against the ground to subdue it. We had no idea whether it could swallow this fish. It appeared unlikely.

Dusk brought welcome relief from the high afternoon temperatures in Zakouma. In mid-March there were few mosquitos and few biting insects which made our sundowner time so much more comfortable. The evening game drives were balmy and very productive. We could not photograph every bird and mammal that we saw under spotlight in the dark. The reflection of the eyes was crucial to finding wildlife as well as listening for calls. When we drove past water filled pans we could see many crocodile eyes.

Once we got back to Tinga camp we often heard lions roaring and hyaenas whooping in the distance and Scops owl ‘”prrrup” calls. Zakouma is wild and you are always aware of this.

“Remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Try to make sense of what you see and wonder about what makes the universe exist. Be curious. And however difficult life may seem, there is always something you can do and succeed at. It matters that you don’t just give up.” ~ Stephen Hawking

A huge thank you to our guide Doug MacDonald for a fascinating six days showing us around Zakouma, with intriguing information and wonderful stories told with great humour. The staff at Tinga camp were very hospitable despite the fact many of us could not speak french. It was remarkable that they could provide tasty meals and serve cold beers and wine so far from civilisation. A testament to great management working with very long supply lines. A special thank you to African Parks for making such a positive difference to the park’s outcomes.

“Ever felt like the universe is whispering secrets of wisdom and courage directly to you? These inspirational star quotes are like cosmic pep talks, lighting up your inner sky with motivation and a dash of celestial magic. They remind us that the vastness above mirrors the potential within, urging us to dream big and shine bright.” ~ Unknown

Explore, seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike

This is the second last post from my fascinating trip to Zakouma National Park in Chad in late March this year. This post is about the different herbivores, baboons and crocodiles we saw in Zakouma, some of which were familiar and some were not. Those species that were familiar had unique differences.

“If knowledge is power, knowing what we don’t know is wisdom.” ~ Adam M Grant

Lewel’s hartebeest is relatively common in Zakouma but is classified in the IUCN red list as endangered and in decline. The shape of the horns differentiate the hartebeest species. Their horns face backwards from a pedestal on top of their head, then curve upwards.

Hartebeests are highly social animals. They feed almost entirely on grass and are not highly selective feeders so can tolerate poor quality food. The main differences between a hartebeest and a tsessebe lie in their horns and colouration. Hartebeests have horns that are more lyre-shaped, while tsessebes have horns that are more lunate, meaning they curve outward and then inward again.

A male Buffon’s Kob. This species is more closely elated to reedbucks, waterbucks, lechwe, and puku. Kob are found in wet areas (such as floodplains), where they eat grasses. Kob are diurnal, but inactive during the heat of the day. They live in groups of either females and calves or just males. These groups generally range from five to 40 animals.

The pelage of the kob is typically golden to reddish-brown overall, but with the throat patch, eye ring, and inner ear being white, and the forelegs being black at the front. Males get darker as they get older.

The Central African Sahel buffalo is found in Zakouma which is a stronghold for this species. The Sahel buffalo is a smaller version of the Cape buffalo. In Zakouma over the last few decades the buffalo population has grown from around 220 in 1986 to over 10 000. The buffalo are highly water dependent so need to come down to the remaining pools of water to drink at least once a day. Although there were many crocodiles in the remaining pools of water in the Salamat river, I never saw a croc attack a buffalo. The crocs appeared to swim amongst the drinking buffalo disturbing them but not attacking them.

“When you learn a little, you feel you know a lot. But when you learn a lot, you realize you know very little.” ~ Jay Shetty

For anyone who has been to Odzala Kokoua National Park you will immediately recognise some of the buffalo as forest buffalo. It is smaller than the Cape buffalo. In Zakouma the Forest and Sahel buffalo seem to mingle.

Forest buffalo have a reddish-brown pelage and their ears are much hairier and have white streaks on them.

Much like the elephants, the buffalo were skittish and very wary of human beings. Not surprising considering the level of poaching over a decade ago. African Parks has done exceptional work to re-establish the natural balance in Zakouma by almost eliminating the interference from poachers.

A bull Defassa waterbuck lying under an acacia tree in mid-morning with his back to Rigueik pan. He was looking into the tree line surrounding the pan for any potential threat from predators.

A female Defassa waterbuck and her calf backlit to show their hairy pelage.

A mixed herd of Defassa waterbuck and Tiang in the open grassland section of Rigueik pan in Zakouma. Thankfully Defassa waterbuck are listed as of least concern in the IUCN Red list. What makes them different to the southern African waterbuck is they have a redder pelage and the common waterbuck has a conspicuous white ring encircling a dark rump, while the defassa has wide white patches on either side of its rump.

A bull Defassa waterbuck grazing on the floodplain grass with four Tiang walking past him in the background in Rigueik pan. There were many Marabou storks in the background.

The Tiang is a subspecies of the Topi and is found in Chad, the northern Central African Republic and south-western Sudan. It has less distinct dark markings than a Topi. Tiang are extremely fast like their Topi cousins and pronk in a similar way.

The tsessebe and topi of East Africa are subspecies that could interbreed if they occurred over the same range. There is a slight variation in horn structure and coat shade, and the herd structures of female tsessbes are smaller than those of the topi. The tsessebe are often found with other species such as zebra and wildebeest. There is generally no competition for food as all three species prefer different parts of the plants they feed on. Topi are selective grazers that primarily feed on the youngest, most nutritious blades of grass, especially those in the mid-height range. They use their elongated muzzle and flexible lips to carefully select these tender parts of the grass, avoiding the stems and mature leaves.

A male Bohor’s reedbuck in the open grassland along the Rigueik pan. This species prefers grasses and tender reed shoots with high protein and low fiber content. Consequently it is dependent on water.

This reedbuck is sexually dimorphic, with males 10% to 20% larger than females and showing more prominent markings. Only the males have horns which extend backward from the forehead and hook slightly forward. Both sexes have a bushy tail with a white tip. The Bohor reedbuck is yellower than other reedbucks. The large and diffuse sebaceous glands present on the coat make the coat greasy and give it a strong odour.

A classic scene in Zakouma. Thousands of Spurwing geese along the edge of a drying pan with a small family herd of Kordofan giraffe drinking from the pan. The pelage pattern of the Kordofan is unique and it’s dark patches are less jagged than its cousins. It also appears to be a more orange colour somewhat like the Rothschild’s giraffe.

Zakouma National Park in Chad is a crucial stronghold for the Kordofan giraffe, containing approximately 50% of the world’s remaining Kordofan giraffe population. Zakouma’s giraffes suffered from poaching in the early 2000s, just like the elephants, rhinos and other large species in the park. According to the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (GCF), within the northern giraffe, the Kordofan giraffe (G. c. antiquorum) subspecies is particularly vulnerable, estimated at only 2 300 individuals. Over the past 35 years, the Kordofan giraffe has experienced a significant decline of more than 80%, leading to its classification as Critically Endangered on the IUCN Red List in 2018.

“Pursue what catches your heart, not what catches your eyes.” ~ Roy T. Bennett

The last census in the park in 2021 put the giraffe population at around 1 500 individuals. When you consider the entire Kordofan giraffe population is only estimated to be 2 500 animals, it is clear why Zakouma’s conservation efforts are so important.

A bull Kordofan giraffe like the male Rothschild’s giraffe has five ossicones. His two main ossicones are on top of his head which have had the hair rubbed off due to fighting. It was interesting to see how prominent the ossicone was on his forehead and the two sub-ossicones at the back of his head between his ears. Ossicones are not horns, but bony protrusions covered in skin and fur found on the heads of giraffe and okapis. The ossicones are made of ossified cartilage, not bone. At birth, they are not attached to the skull, and lie flat, to facilitate birth. Later in life they fuse to the skull.

Olive baboons are a common sight in Zakouma National Park in Chad. This species of baboon can be found throughout the Sahel region and as far south as the Serengeti. They inhabit the lush riverine forests along the river that flows through the park, particularly in the areas where the river fragments into smaller pools during the dry season. These baboons are known for their olive-gray coat and their social groups that can range from 15 to 150 individuals.

We watched the antics of these baboons for hours along the Salamat river. They behave in a very similar way to the Chacma baboons.

The Western Greater kudu is found in the Sahel. It looks very similar to the Greater kudu seen in southern Africa. This species in Zakouma in not nearly as common as we find in southern Africa. There were many trees which had what looked like a browse line about two metres off the ground. We asked our guide, Doug MacDonald, if it was caused by herbivores like the kudu and he replied that the apparent browse line was in fact the flood line indicating the level of inundation during the summer floods.

Kudu are social animals, often forming family herds. They are browsers so feed on leaves, shoots and fruits from trees and shrubs. While generally similar to the greater kudu in appearance, there are some subtle differences, including the presence of a mohawk-like ridge of hair on the neck in males and a less pronounced set of black and white bands on the sides. The western greater kudu is found in a specific geographical region, primarily in Chad.

A pair of Western or Harnessed bushbuck frequented the Tinga camp and seemed to have become relatively habituated to all the human activity in and around the camp. I did not manage to get an image of the male who had superb colouring. The Harnessed bushbuck also has horizontal stripes on its sides which differentiates its appearance from the Cape Bushbuck.

One quick view of a Red-fronted gazelle seen on our last drive to the airstrip at the end of our wonderful few days in Zakouma. This species lives in the Sahel and prefers semi-arid grasslands, savannas, savanna woodlands, and areas of scrub. This species seems to be the equivalent of the Thompson’s gazelle found in East Africa but is not nearly so common.

Zakouma is home to the West African crocodile. It is found in the pans and in the Salamat river. This is a distinct species from the Nile crocodile. Although endangered, we saw many West African crocodiles in the Salamat river. This particular male crocodile was roaring at something but I could not see what was agitating him. The night we spent in a fly camp along the Salamat river we heard crocodiles frequently roaring. I have not heard crocs roar like this in the southern African rivers.

“Tell me and I will forget. Teach me and I will remember. Involve me and I will learn.” ~ Benjamin Franklin

We saw numerous West African crocodiles climbing onto a sand bank in the Salamat river to bask and warm up. Needless to say it got very hot by mid day so the crocs frequently moved in and out of the water to control their body temperature. 

One thing I had not seen anywhere else was the numerous caves that had been dug into the river bank which the crocodiles lived in. It was a way to get out of the extreme heat and when the pools of water eventually dried up they would aestivate (a hibernation like state) and wait for the next rains

This is a video of crocodiles herding catfish in the shadows of a pool of water to enable a feeding frenzy.

As you can see the wildlife and their behaviour is quite different in Zakouma. This is in large part dictated by the seasonal extremes. Zakouma is an area of contrasts like many parts of Africa. The ecosystem has two very distinct seasons, the wet season and the dry season. There are however very few areas where the contrasts between the two seasons are so dramatic; affecting fauna, flora and terrain alike. Between June and November Zakouma receives an average of 850mm of rain resulting in the majority of the park becoming completely inundated with water. It is during this time that the park sees a strong seasonal outward migration of many species; mainly the elephant and tiang and to a lesser extent roan antelope and hartebeest, to the drier areas further north. The dry season in comparison, lures the wildlife back to the heart of Zakouma, where pans surrounded by fertile floodplains and pools in the main river systems (Bahr’s Salamat, Korom and Dikere) provide drinking water and grazing throughout the dry months. Large herds of animals as well as thousands of birds congregate at these pools from February to June making for spectacular game viewing.

Zakouma National Park is one of Africa’s most recent examples of a park pulled from the brink that has rapidly returned to a vibrant and spectacular wilderness teeming with life and bursting with biodiversity.

“Don’t just learn, experience.
Don’t just read, absorb.
Don’t just change, transform.
Don’t just relate, advocate.
Don’t just promise, prove.
Don’t just criticize, encourage.
Don’t just think, ponder.
Don’t just take, give.
Don’t just see, feel.
Don’t just dream, do.
Don’t just hear, listen.
Don’t just talk, act.
Don’t just tell, show.
Don’t just exist, live.”
~ Roy T. Bennett

Explore. seek to understand, marvel at its interconnectedness and let it be.

Have fun, Mike